Newbie NEEDS Help/Suggestions for new build

[Newbiebikebuile2025]

Hi everyone ! Like my handle and the thread title suggests I am 100% new to ebike and ebike builds and I need help with everything from picking out parts that will fit my needs, to finding sources to get the lowest prices from safe & reliable sellers, to making the list of parts, to makoa list of tools needed for the build, to tips on how to put everything together, to ideas on how to ride and maintain my ebike build.
I Genuinely appreciate all input so thank you everyone in advance, you're the best for sharing your wisdom!
So I will provide a list of the main or most important things in an ebike and hopefully get some great advice from everyone on this site. Here we go
1.) want an ebike that can go 40+ mph. 40moh is a decent goal, 35mph would be a bare minimum if I can't afford more !
2.) I want an ebike with front fork suspension and rear shocks either mono or dual is alright with me, whatever will be alright, for a decent price, do it's job well enough and be good enough to be pretty durable for someone my weight of almost 220 pounds.
3.) I would love for my ebike to be motorcycle styled as far as the seat style which I would be happy if it was a flat saddle or any motorcycle style , not bicycle saddle style.
4.) I want my ebike to have a swingarm like a motorcycle. I'm not sure if this design of having a swingarm would make my ebike an e-, motorcycle? But after much experience with gas versions I know a swingarm is what I want for sure .
5.) I would like decent front and rear disc brakes for both stopping power and ease of installation and ease of maintenance, however, if it is much cheaper I would be happy to explore other good enough brake styles if anyone has any good ideas! Thanks!
6) I don't know if it's possible but I would like my bike to have tires that aren't really fat, I'm thinking a minimum rim size of 12 inches to maybe 20 or more inches I'd be open to ideas and opinions and the width I have in mind is 2 inches to maybe 3 inches and again open to ideas that fall inside or outside this range!

That pretty much finishes the stuff I really want kind of a certain way, unless persuaded otherwise, the rest is kind of much more up for any ideas

7.) I've heard about e-, bikes/ e- motorcycle that has (I think?) a hub motor or maybe a mid drive motor but setup where you can shift gears of the electric motor? There might be situations where the gear is inside the motor? And also maybe for mid drive where the chain that goes from the motor to the wheel changes what size sprocket/gears it goes over? (I am not talking about like bicycle pedal gears lol)
8.) A nice digital display would be awesome, even like a cheap motorcycle style one with rpm and speed and tells time like a clock plus odometer-- again open to all ideas
9.) decent range battery but also like a versatile battery that has a good top speed charging rate and good top and continuous discharge rate. I mean of course I would want the best battery EVER but I'd be very happy if it could get the bike up to 35-49 or more mph and last for at least 10-15 miles. I suppose batteries can always be added to or upgraded. Same with a lot of components which is why I think it's important to get the best part for your money for example even if I'm running my current build at 48 volts if a controller that can handle everything up to and including 96 volts is the same price or very little extra I would like to try for the 96 volt so that maybe some day I can upgrade!


Thanks everyone for reading, for your great ideas, for sharing your experience and for putting up with a newbie like me!

 

[Chalo]

If you want a motorcycle, get a motorcycle. Trampling on bicycle privileges and rights of way when you don't have or want a bicycle is, well... really tacky. So, good luck with your motorcycle. Be sure to get insurance and registration and the appropriate license.

 

[E-HP]

A lot of information to unpack, and a big wish list. It’s all doable, but I’ll leave it to other folks to provide their suggestions, which you will then reply that it’s more than you want to spend. It’s a lot of typing to go through just to be shot down at the end, so without a stated budget, not worth the exercise. You may want to segregate your list into the things you need vs want, since what you want may require skill and tools. Are you equipped with a multimeter, soldering iron, crimpers, etc? It won’t be a kit build.
I have some info in my newbie faq, and my build thread is an evolution from a kit build to current, with every component replaced or refined over time (I believe my right crank arm is all that remains from the original bike). There’s also a component list with prices that is a little out of date now, but gives a good idea of where the dollars went. I don’t really go for fancy displays or lights and gadgets, just the core ebike stuff and things for comfort or convenience. My bike will go over 50, but I only ride at 20 90% of the time.

DIY Newb FAQ?

I think I've read through all of the stickies in the ebike forums, which provide great guidance. Yet, I see a lot a new folks getting into ebikes and posting questions that are not in the stickies, or are embedded somewhere among the existing stickies. Another observation is there are...

endless-sphere.com

My econo-e-bike

Current Configuration (04-18-24) of my e-bike: Motor: Previous: MXUS 1000W slow wind 9C clone, 26" generic rim Current: Leaf 1500W 5T, 24" Halo SAS rim Controller: Previous: 18 FET KT 30A Sine Wave 18 FET 7kW PowerVelocity controller Current: No name "80A" Sine Wave w/3-speed switch, cruise...

endless-sphere.com

 

[Newbiebikebuile2025]

Yes I either have or can get tools that you listed. Have multimeter, wire crimpers, moved a bunch of times recently so need to get a new soldering iron.
As far as price...well if it ends up below enough I can do the build relatively fast, otherwise I wouldn't mind getting one part for a couple hundred bucks every month until I piece it together if that what it takes. I'm looking for a budget of around $1000 or as low as possible.
Extras...yeah I agree I might be dreaming too big so maybe I should forget about any non essential for the time being. Even a $19.12 ebike digital dash thru Walmart I just saw, while by itself isn't much, it isn't necessary to run the bike and can be put on after I get everything else together .
So I appreciate your response and it leaves me begging the obvious to me question : Can I build an ebike with at least the bare necessities to get it driving and stopping, that goes at least 35mph and has a front and rear suspension (preferably a rear swingarm) for under $1,000?

 

[E-HP]

Thanks for providing your budget.

No, not if the $1000 covers buying the donor bike/motorcycle as well. You need to identify your platform first in order to figure out what may work with it. If you're starting with a motorcycle/scooter, then you’ll need metal fabrication skills as well.
Not sure why you keep mentioning a swingarm. If you want rear suspension, it’s a given.

For $1000 you'll need to start with something that you can eventually upgrade to get you to 40+ mph.
Here's an example (below) of a 40+ mph bike, for reference, with components that can get there. In this case, adding cooling to the motor would be required (Statorade), in order to keep from overheating if traveling that speed continuously (see final temp in the lower right).

As I suggest in my FAQ, you should purchase components that are flexible enough that you can still use them as you upgrade. So, if you start out at 48V, for instance, and went to be able to upgrade to 72V, then it would be best to purchase a controller that can operate at both voltages, and has sufficient current capability for 40mph. Then, you may only need to swap out the battery, or the motor, depending on what components you start with. But, you can't really plan much without identifying what the donor scooter/motorcycle is first. If it's a bike, that can be upgraded later, but if it's a scooter or motorcycle, swapping components may be more difficult, depending on the extent of fabrication required.

Motor Simulator - Tools

Our ebike motor simulator allows you to easily simulate the different performance characteristics of different ebike setups - with a wide selection of hub motors modeled, and the ability to add custom batteries and controllers and set a wide variety of vehicle parameters you'll be able to see...

ebikes.ca

Note: displays aren't compatible across different controller manufacturers. It's best to purchase the controller and display together as a set. The odds of some random Walmart display being compatible with the controller you eventually purchase is near zero.

 

[Zambam]

Take a look at https://www.flyebike.com/product-pa...Nw5iXYx355DBhstQfm7MCtcXZKmp2Uuf8rBiGJEYAxGEb

-Fly 7 with lead acid battery is currently $1000 on sale. Not sure if they will ship to your state for free.
-Recycle the 5 lead acid 12V AGM battery at Autozone and get $50 in store credit ($10 ea)
-Build a LiFePo4 battery 22S 30Ah using 32135 Gotian cells in the lead acid battery case for under $200.

With the 22S 30Ah LiFePo4 battery, it will do 40 MPH on the flats. Range will be around 50 miles at avg 20 MPH

How do I know that? I have done all of the above on my Fly 7.

edit: Forgot you'll need a new charger. Add about $80

 

[Newbiebikebuile2025]

If you want a motorcycle, get a motorcycle. Trampling on bicycle privileges and rights of way when you don't have or want a bicycle is, well... really tacky. So, good luck with your motorcycle. Be sure to get insurance and registration and the appropriate license.

To answer your post and also another part of a post at least from E-HP......
I feel like part of my issue here is being a newbie and not knowing terminology and maybe even not knowing what characteristics place a motor bike in the ebike category and which lands it in an e motorcycle category. Surron says it's an ebike yet certain models I've seen in my limited knowledge go quite fast and it has a rear swingarm that makes it look to me more like an electric motorcycle . I've seen some search results say certain Surron or all Surron are ebike whereas a different article says all Surron are electric dirt bike. I believe E-HP asked why I'm mentioning a rear swingarm...well because I want it and from what I've read no not all electric bikes with rear suspension have a swing arm as a given. Maybe I am wrong if I phrased it as a full suspension though? You can make a suspension for an e-bike rear triangle according to an article I read, although again I'm probably wrong because that seems like a lot of work now that I read more about it, but initially I had just read it's possible. I've also seen weird mid bike shocks going mostly horizontal along the frame towards the rear, never been sure what that does for an otherwise hard tail. So I see your point, swingarm it is for a suspension.

Also I don't plan on "trampling over" any bicycles or whatever. If it goes as fast as I want there's no way I'm going out for a ride on a bike lane or path, and certainly won't cross over any bicycle territory going that fast if I had to cross over a bike lane for a few seconds while out for a ride I would definitely slow down a safe amount probably 10mph or less, especially if there's any bicyclist near me or any corners or blind spots where a pedal bicycle could jump out in front of me.
I truly do appreciate everyone's input and apologize again since I probably don't know much what I'm talking about

 

[Newbiebikebuile2025]

Take a look at https://www.flyebike.com/product-pa...Nw5iXYx355DBhstQfm7MCtcXZKmp2Uuf8rBiGJEYAxGEb

-Fly 7 with lead acid battery is currently $1000 on sale. Not sure if they will ship to your state for free.
-Recycle the 5 lead acid 12V AGM battery at Autozone and get $50 in store credit ($10 ea)
-Build a LiFePo4 battery 22S 30Ah using 32135 Gotian cells in the lead acid battery case for under $200.

With the 22S 30Ah LiFePo4 battery, it will do 40 MPH on the flats. Range will be around 50 miles at avg 20 MPH

How do I know that? I have done all of the above on my Fly 7.

edit: Forgot you'll need a new charger. Add about $80

Thanks Zambam. That definitely gives me some reading material at the very least. The numbers look pretty good. I've built 2 scooter battery packs in the past so that's doable, it's like part of the hobby to me to work on the bike at least some and a battery build would be a good way for me to do some work. I will read about this and see if I like it and go from there

 

[Newbiebikebuile2025]

Thanks for providing your budget.

No, not if the $1000 covers buying the donor bike/motorcycle as well. You need to identify your platform first in order to figure out what may work with it. If you're starting with a motorcycle/scooter, then you’ll need metal fabrication skills as well.
Not sure why you keep mentioning a swingarm. If you want rear suspension, it’s a given.

For $1000 you'll need to start with something that you can eventually upgrade to get you to 40+ mph.
Here's an example (below) of a 40+ mph bike, for reference, with components that can get there. In this case, adding cooling to the motor would be required (Statorade), in order to keep from overheating if traveling that speed continuously (see final temp in the lower right).

As I suggest in my FAQ, you should purchase components that are flexible enough that you can still use them as you upgrade. So, if you start out at 48V, for instance, and went to be able to upgrade to 72V, then it would be best to purchase a controller that can operate at both voltages, and has sufficient current capability for 40mph. Then, you may only need to swap out the battery, or the motor, depending on what components you start with. But, you can't really plan much without identifying what the donor scooter/motorcycle is first. If it's a bike, that can be upgraded later, but if it's a scooter or motorcycle, swapping components may be more difficult, depending on the extent of fabrication required.

View attachment 368634

Motor Simulator - Tools

Our ebike motor simulator allows you to easily simulate the different performance characteristics of different ebike setups - with a wide selection of hub motors modeled, and the ability to add custom batteries and controllers and set a wide variety of vehicle parameters you'll be able to see...

ebikes.ca

Note: displays aren't compatible across different controller manufacturers. It's best to purchase the controller and display together as a set. The odds of some random Walmart display being compatible with the controller you eventually purchase is near zero.

That's a really cool chart. Going to take someone like me few minutes to grasp the day but it's definitely something I want to learn about. Thank you. I will look over your FAQ as well

 

[E-HP]

If you click on the link, the page will explain how to use the simulator. You can choose different motors and any other parameters.

 

[offGridDownUnder]

Advice? Ok.

Convert a motorcycle for those speeds.

If you want a bicycle, it will have pedals, and won't handle those speeds except in some straight line riding (calculate the pedal cadence range you need to both ride at walking speed while pedaling, and also at your high end - and recalculate for any prospective motors you consider to check if that combination works).

If you choose a bicycle, consider how it rides when the battery is flat, or when something quits while you are out. Can you ride it home? Can you get up the hill when you are already tired at the end of the day? Factor that into your design choices. If you are rolling your own design/choices/assembly, this will happen some day.

Where will you store it, and where will you charge it? There are two factors that lead to Li battery fires - abuse, and starting with cheap cells. I posted about this on the shared chat at work and our State Emergency Services guy responded that he had lost count of the number of fires he had attended because people left Li batteries on the charger overnight - meaning power tool batteries as well as cheap kid's scooters.

I don't buy expensive, and I don't buy cheap. I buy good, which does add up. However, not buying good isn't somehow magically OK - my kit doesn't fail me. You can learn quite a bit by buying cheap - in fact, you will probably be forced to, and you don't get to decide when and where the lessons come. I can learn more at my leisure, and you will probably spend as much as I do before your system is reliable. Up to you. I am paying for other's hard-earned knowledge and reduced hassles at night in the rain.

The battery is likely to equal the cost of any other "part" of the machine - if it's a bicycle. If you are converting an existing motorcycle, then that donor motorcycle might cost more than the battery, but the battery will still be a large expense. Consider buying good, and buying a charger that is smart enough to stop at 80% - this can triple the lifespan of a Li battery (and lessen the chance of a fire). Do the arithmetic.

If you choose a bicycle, accept the lower speeds and behave on the bike lanes - you can make life hard for the rest of us and also make it difficult for us to get legislation making electric bicycles more acceptable.

Are the speeds you want legal on the paths or roads you will ride on? If not, you are wasting your money, and possibly killing someone. You'll certainly be pissing everyone off - you will have no friends in the car, pedestrian, or cycling community.

Engineering is the discipline of noting all the constraints, and then finding where they come together to permit a real solution. Don't pretend - that doesn't roll. But you can learn by trying, and you get to keep the lessons and the costs.

 

[bananu7]

+1, for those speeds you want a lightweight (125cc, maybe something like a TZR50?) motorbike chassis. They come with proper frames, wheels and brakes, and have enough space to fit a motor and a battery.

Alternatively, there are pre-built small motorbikes in the likes of Surron, Talaria etc. that would also fit your performance bill, but would be much more expensive, and depending on your height might be uncomfortable for a 100kg rider. Building your own can save a bit of money, but it's unlikely you'll build your first ride cheaper than an used model of one of those.

 

[MxusMick]

If you can scrounge parts you can absolutely build an ebike or two with $1000. You can find batteries cheaper on Craigslist, other parts as well. The 5 main things- bicycle, battery, motor, controller, and throttle. 48v battery will get you close to 30mph, it's faster than it sounds. 30 mph on the dirt will be at your ebike to Hell and loosen wires, if not the inside of your controller. Controller will fail first, so good to buy a spare.