Daniel said:
Second, the wiring is thicker for the 48V system to handle the increased load. The brass pin configuration is great for the 500W motor and up to 25 Amps coming through. The 48V system with 25 Amps coming through (1200 Watt peak) requires a lower gauge (thicker) wire system.
AFAIK, wiring thickness is not normally based on power thru the wire, but only current, as resistance to current is what drives the power loss thru the cable. So unless there is a poor connection (high resistance) somewhere, then the same current at higher voltage should have no difference in power supplied thru (or voltage drop across) the cabling vs same current at lower voltage, as far as your battery cabling goes.
Regarding *motor* cabling from the controller, that might need to be thicker to handle the increased motor (phase) currents, if what you already have is not sufficient to prevent overheating. However, unless that cabling is already running very hot, there shoudl be no need to upgrade it to go up from 36V to 48V at the same battery current; it's not that much of a total power increase and shouldnt' be that much of a phase current increase, unless your controller for the higher voltage is also capable of much more extreme phase currents for long periods.
RESPONSE FROM PRODECO TCHNOLOIES: I was discussing if switching controllers to increase peak from 720 watt to 1200 watt. the brass pin configuration on the current 500 watt is already at it' safety limit and should not have additional current pass through it. For example, our 48V system is the same motor as the 36V system basically. It will however have been produced with the lowe gauge wiring to accept the peak to 1200 watts. I understand the 1200 watts whether 36V, 48V or for that matter 120V would not matter as far as thickness of wire. Current is the only determing factor.
You must also keep in mind the motors are set at the hall sensors in the stator to a limited RPM. Higher Amps will give improved take off speed but will not affect top RPM too much unless the motor was no set to a lower RPM.
I suspect you mean that they are set in the *controller* to a specific RPM maximum; the hall sensors themselves can't limit the RPM of the motor.

(unless you have installed electronics inside the motor at the hall sensors to cease sending hall signals, thus halting the controller, once a specific number of pulses-per-second or whatever has been reached, which would seem an odd way to do it--or some other such mechanism).
Doing it in the controller is a very common way of limiting speed; many controllers have a jumper to enable/disable this limit.
RESPONSE FROM PRODECO TCHNOLOIES: We understand about doing it through the controller. Most smart controllers today will allow you to do so via a USB port and software. ASI puts out a great smart controller which we may use on our 28mph bike to allow the rider to govern his choices and disctate his distance. We however do it right at the hall sensor on the street legal units and avoid the rider's ability to change it maitaining the street legals status and as important the warranty. Some of the geared motors should not be pushed besides we want to maintain distances per charge.
On a side note, keep in mind battery storage is measured also Volts multiplied by Amps.
Actually, capacity is measured as Volts multiplied by Amp-Hours. It is a very important distinction.
RESPONSE FROM PRODECO TCHNOLOIES: 100% Agree. Batteries are always by Amps per Hour and controllers are Amps (current). I was typing so fast and should have re-read my response.
If you have a controller that is 48V 25Ag, you will peak at 1200Watt which means you are consuming 1200 Watts per Hour.
Not if you are only peaking at that power level.
RESPONSE FROM PRODECO TCHNOLOIES: 100% agree but if motor is limte consumption drops and peak is achieved only on the way up.
If you are running continuously at that higher power level, then yes, it would use up 1200Wh in that hour. But otherwise, it is only going to use up power faster when you are actually running at the higher power consumption levels.
RESPONSE FROM PRODECO TCHNOLOIES: 100% agree and why the battery would not be consumed at 1200.
No matter what size battery, they will drain quick. For round numbers a 48V battery that is 10 Amps will offer 480 Watts.
Do you mean 10Amps (A) or 10Amp-hours (Ah)?
RESPONSE FROM PRODECO TCHNOLOIES: I meant Ah (amps per hour) and again typing fast. I rarely if ever go on forums but realize I need to be a little more careful when discusinng capacity versus consumption and current.
If the former, then you are simply talking about the maximum current delivery capability of hte battery, not it's capacity. If the latter, then yes that is the approximate capacity of the battery, depending on what LVC and HVC it has, so you know what percentage of the full capacity of the cels you actually get. Easily tested by fully charging it with it's normal charger, hooking to a wattmeter, and discharging it till LVC cuts off discharge, then you know exactly how many Wh it can provide under those discharge conditions.