Qulbix Raptor ebike + frame kit

Thanks Offroader, the fact that it helps with any deflection is good enough for me. Will be getting one myself.

Rick
 
So I convinced my wife to pose on the bike, proving it's a unisex bike. Caught her right after she came home from work :D :D

 
Snellemin, great pic, your wife really bring out the seat on your bike. So how does she ride? Clarifying, talking about the bike.
 
Rix said:
Snellemin, great pic, your wife really bring out the seat on your bike. So how does she ride? Clarifying, talking about the bike.

I thinks so too :lol: She rides great :lol: The bike is sweet too. Acceleration is intense and can pull away from cars. Bike is really stable and doesn't feel like you are going 50mph. I'm surprised that the cheapy Ebay shock works so well under the Raptors weight. Cops haven't bothered me at all since I started commuting to work with the bike. They just past me by.

Here's a link to my commute from work. Boring to watch, but shows the different terrain I take. From the parking garage, to the streets, through a old golf course, through the bushes, park, mtb trail...
There is a overpass that I go over not long after I get out from the parking garage. I'm hitting 42-44mph going up the ramp and then hit regen to slow down before going off the pavement.

http://youtu.be/5hX3lXoYiu4
 
NIce vid Snellemin, some pavement, some trails, off road, tree riding, good variety. Yep, not a bad way to finish off a day at work.
 
Couple things, I measured the rise of the steps are they are about 6", so 6" * 8 steps is 48" so around 4 feet. when you take a ruler and see exactly how high 4 feet is it is pretty high.

What I notice is that doing jumps at even 3 feet and landing on flat ground seems to be hard on my body, feels like whiplash in the neck when you hit. I wonder if this is normal and if most professionals, when doing jumps, land on a sloped down surface so that your momentum is carried downhill rather than a hard hit on flat ground. Possibly I may have my suspension set up too soft, I just don't know.

The other thing is the tire knobby combo I use has worked well so far. After the big problems with bicycle rear tires pinch flatting all the time and wearing away too quickly the shinko 241 is a dream tire. Both the shinko 241 19"x2.75 and razor back front 26x2.6 have held up really well to constant abuse. I am talking hitting curbs and steps at high speeds and doing high jumps. They also have yet to slip out on me and cause a fall and I have hit mud unexpectedly a few times and drive over ground covered by thick wet leaves. Actually most of this winter everything is wet off-road including the grass which makes for a very slippery driving especially when turning.
A few times I felt the rear slip out a little but it slid and held, on crappy bicycle tires the whole rear end would slide out and I would take a fall.

One surprising thing about the shinko 241 which I didn't expect is that I notice a bit of wear after 200 miles. Only noticeable wear is on the center tread. I don't know if this is good or bad but I figured the shinko would have little wear do to it being on a lightweight low powered ebike. It is not a lot of wear and the knobbies are really deep but I expect the tire to last maybe around 2000 miles. The increased wear could be do to the fact that I ride stairs a lot and I notice that the tire will sometimes leave black tread on the steps as the tire slips a lot when climbing. Maybe this is a good thing as if it is able to wear it is soft enough to offer grip or if the tire didn't wear at all it would be too hard rubber compound for good grip.

I do know some reviews from gas motor bikes using the tire said they wore away super fast at maybe 500 miles even. Either way, this tire will last longer than any knobby bicycle tire by far and actually may be the perfect ebike tire as its compound is soft enough to offer grip and still last 2000 or more miles. Shinko also highlights the fact that it was made to be light weight.
 
Offroader said:
What I notice is that doing jumps at even 3 feet and landing on flat ground seems to be hard on my body, feels like whiplash in the neck when you hit. I wonder if this is normal and if most professionals, when doing jumps, land on a sloped down surface so that your momentum is carried downhill rather than a hard hit on flat ground. Possibly I may have my suspension set up too soft, I just don't know.

Yes it is hard landing on flat ground. Thats why I like table tops. Stevens Pass has lots of nice large table tops for DH mountain biking and if you time it right you can just fly over and land pretty easily on the down slope. This year Stevens Pass added table tops for snowboarding also and now I can do larger jumps because the landing is so nice.
 
Offroader said:
Couple things, I measured the rise of the steps are they are about 6", so 6" * 8 steps is 48" so around 4 feet. when you take a ruler and see exactly how high 4 feet is it is pretty high.

One surprising thing about the shinko 241 which I didn't expect is that I notice a bit of wear after 200 miles. Only noticeable wear is on the center tread. I don't know if this is good or bad but I figured the shinko would have little wear do to it being on a lightweight low powered ebike. It is not a lot of wear and the knobbies are really deep but I expect the tire to last maybe around 2000 miles. The increased wear could be do to the fact that I ride stairs a lot and I notice that the tire will sometimes leave black tread on the steps as the tire slips a lot when climbing. Maybe this is a good thing as if it is able to wear it is soft enough to offer grip or if the tire didn't wear at all it would be too hard rubber compound for good grip.

I do know some reviews from gas motor bikes using the tire said they wore away super fast at maybe 500 miles even. Either way, this tire will last longer than any knobby bicycle tire by far and actually may be the perfect ebike tire as its compound is soft enough to offer grip and still last 2000 or more miles. Shinko also highlights the fact that it was made to be light weight.

I guestamated the SR241 would last 4000 miles on my Ebike. I based this on how much the 3.00x17SR241 was worn after 1000 miles, which was barely at all. Pinching the knobbs on my 17x3 and 2.75x19, the 19 feels just slightly "softer". I wonder if its because the individual sqaure knobs on the 3.00x17 and my 2.75x18 are smaller squares than the 2.75x19 and possibly the compound is harder. Either that, or the steps you have been riding are just that brutal on tires. I don't ride alot of steps so I don't know how much they accelerate tire wear. One things for sure, I was only getting about 300-370 miles, with the 24x3.00 Duro Razorback and averaging about 5-6 tubes because of pinched flats per tire. Wont ever go that route again.
 
Rix said:
Offroader said:
Couple things, I measured the rise of the steps are they are about 6", so 6" * 8 steps is 48" so around 4 feet. when you take a ruler and see exactly how high 4 feet is it is pretty high.

One surprising thing about the shinko 241 which I didn't expect is that I notice a bit of wear after 200 miles. Only noticeable wear is on the center tread. I don't know if this is good or bad but I figured the shinko would have little wear do to it being on a lightweight low powered ebike. It is not a lot of wear and the knobbies are really deep but I expect the tire to last maybe around 2000 miles. The increased wear could be do to the fact that I ride stairs a lot and I notice that the tire will sometimes leave black tread on the steps as the tire slips a lot when climbing. Maybe this is a good thing as if it is able to wear it is soft enough to offer grip or if the tire didn't wear at all it would be too hard rubber compound for good grip.

I do know some reviews from gas motor bikes using the tire said they wore away super fast at maybe 500 miles even. Either way, this tire will last longer than any knobby bicycle tire by far and actually may be the perfect ebike tire as its compound is soft enough to offer grip and still last 2000 or more miles. Shinko also highlights the fact that it was made to be light weight.

I guestamated the SR241 would last 4000 miles on my Ebike. I based this on how much the 3.00x17SR241 was worn after 1000 miles, which was barely at all. Pinching the knobbs on my 17x3 and 2.75x19, the 19 feels just slightly "softer". I wonder if its because the individual sqaure knobs on the 3.00x17 and my 2.75x18 are smaller squares than the 2.75x19 and possibly the compound is harder. Either that, or the steps you have been riding are just that brutal on tires. I don't ride alot of steps so I don't know how much they accelerate tire wear. One things for sure, I was only getting about 300-370 miles, with the 24x3.00 Duro Razorback and averaging about 5-6 tubes because of pinched flats per tire. Wont ever go that route again.

It will be interesting to see how many miles but it will take some time to get there. Right now I'm burning through a 1665 Watt Hour battery pack in around 20 miles. My cycle analyst says I am using 55 watt hour per mile. That is pretty damn high because I am pulling over 4K watts. My next upgrade will be to increase the battery capacity by at least 50%. I have the batteries to do it and the room inside the frame, but just never got around to modifying the wiring harness.

Maybe I will even double it down the road. You really need all the capacity you can get if you want to run high power and really drive the bike hard. I am basically full throttle all the time.
 
[quote1665 Watt Hour battery pack in around 20 miles][/quote] Off the top of my head, that's north of 80Wh per mile. YAH!!!!! :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: Go big or go home. Stair riding eats up juice huh. I did a 14 miler ride with lots of soft sand in it. As I posted before, the 5405 isn't any faster off the line than the 5404, just uses a little less juice doing it. I averaged 77Wh per mile. For me that's good, with the 5403 and I would be close to 90 Wh per mile. My 5404 would be in the 80s for sure. Some folks on the Stealth thread have asked for a ride report, I will type something up over there. Be looking for a PM from me, want to run something by you.

Update on the 5405 which I posted on other threads. While working with Kenny @ Crystalyte through Electricrider trying to figure out why this motor wasnt pulling any harder off than the 5404, I discovered one of my Xt150 bullets on the controller wire had unsoldered from the wire. The wire and solder was just floating around the inside of the plug socket. Long story short, put some electrical soldering flux into the Xt150 socket and re soldered. This made a difference. The 5405 pulls harder off the line than the 5404 does now, as it should have in the beginning. Not any faster on top, still the same there. Anyway I am posting this update to accurately reflect whats going on with the 5405.

Rick
 
Hi, guys.

Just wanted to let you know that we have rebranded Torque Bikes. The new name is QULBIX.
You are welcome to visit our new page: http://www.qulbix.com, it contains more info and pictures on Raptor frame kits than ever before. Hope you like it.

Rebrand_ES.jpg


Here are also our new Facebook and Twitter accounts.
Cheers, Ziva
 
Saw you change on Facebook. Personally Torque sounds badass compared to Qulbix. But that is maybe because I'm in Texas USA vs the rest of the world.
 
Like the new website, it if definately more informative. Torques sounds better, but yah, when searching for torques bikes, I came across alot of websites with "torque" in it, Qulbix will narrow it down a bunch. What does "Qulbix" mean? Or is it just a name?

Rick
 
The new site is much better and good to see that I can order any part that I require.

Now I have an issue with my bicycle seat subframe set. I'm not a tall person so my seat post is short. My inner thighs rubs the upper part of the subframe and gets annoying on the trials. If I was taller, I wouldn't have a problem as the seatpost would of been much higher. I feel that the issue can be fixed by narrowing the top part and make it match the bottom part of the subframe. I would buy a new one if you do decide to make a new one or at least add it too your catalog.
 
Snellemin, we do have one modified bicycle seat subframe ready, custom made (the one on the right):
qulbix_bicycle_subframe.jpg


The bicycle seat height (BSH) of the modified subframe is also 20mm lower than that of usual Raptor's (below).
Frame_Specifications_8.png


Read more about the bicycle frame geometry here.
If you need more info, please let know me at info@qulbix.com.
 
Hi Guys,

I had a problem with the controller and sent to Lyen to be repaired.
Was returned after repairing on 10 January but never arrived here in Portugal. I bought another controller but still not arrived!
I'm desperate to start testing the machine. :x
 

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E-Fuel said:
Hi Guys,

I had a problem with the controller and sent to Lyen to be repaired.
Was returned after repairing on 10 January but never arrived here in Portugal. I bought another controller but still not arrived!
I'm desperate to start testing the machine. :x

Excellent looking bike.

Enjoy it!

Tom
 
E-Fuel said:
Hi Guys,

I had a problem with the controller and sent to Lyen to be repaired.
Was returned after repairing on 10 January but never arrived here in Portugal. I bought another controller but still not arrived!
I'm desperate to start testing the machine. :x


So I remember you saying that you painted both rims to match. They look beutiful along with your bike. Very very nice. Being that I know shit about painting anything, can you give a quick rundown how you prepped and painted your MC rear and MTB front Rims to match?

Rick
 
Rick and others- Always being a Fox fan will the Fox 36 VAN 180 FIT RC2 be a good choice for a Raptor build?




Rix said:
QuestionMan said:
I have heard about everybody complaining when using triple crown forks that the turn radius sucks. Some say that if you are going over 7 MPH it doesn't matter. I just don't know until I try it but I like an agile bike so it would probably annoy me.

I always wonder if triple crown forks are really a necessary and if they really make that much of a difference? Especially when most of you will never even off-road the bike, why use a tripe crown fork if your only driving in the street?


Qman, it all boils down to how much flex you are willing to put up with. If you don't mind your bike feeling spongy when braking and turning at the same time, a super heavy duty Single crown free ride fork can be an option such as the Fox 36 VAN 180 FIT RC2. I wouldn't even consider any other single crown fork out there for an ebike. Besides stiffness, the one thing I really like about Dual Crown Forks over single crown is the fork can turn pas the frame. This automatically protects the wiring and brake lines from getting pinched from over steering movement in a crash. My 2 cents for what its worth.

Rick
 
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