Qulbix Raptor ebike + frame kit

eCruz, I am interested in the links. So basically it sounds like you will add sealant to the motor housing threads, drill a hole for an "oil cap," tap the hole, and then pour in enough fluorinert liquid to bring the level up 1.5" from the bottom of the motor housing.
 
Ecruz, I've been doing a bit of research on oil cooling. You should consider drilling a hole on the side of the motor and putting a glass window in to check oil level.

That Fluorinert seems like a good idea but is expensive and I wonder how well it will perform vs ATF fluid. I guess this all depends on just how much leakage you will have.

You will also need some kind of vent hole I believe, or the air will heat up and push the coolant out with it.

Your battery capacity is 2563 Watt hours, so you will basically have close to what I am running at 2664 Watt Hours. Probably even more considering some of my packs are older and have lost capacity.
 
Mammalian04 said:
eCruz, I am interested in the links. So basically it sounds like you will add sealant to the motor housing threads, drill a hole for an "oil cap," tap the hole, and then pour in enough fluorinert liquid to bring the level up 1.5" from the bottom of the motor housing.


That is the idea in theory I have all the items and just need the time. I have the motor apart in bare (no paint) metal to glue the syncs before powder coating. Before anyone says, no I will not be powder coating the heat syncs lol.

I also have to investigate if it will evaporate via the axle area. This will be harder to seal.
 
I also have to investigate if it will evaporate via the axle area. This will be harder to seal. Thanks to OffRoader's comment here is the last component to add to the list. Also does anyone know were I can get the electronic sealing orange spray, I cannot find it here in the states it cant be that complicated.
 

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ecruz said:
Also does anyone know where I can get the electronic sealing orange spray, I cannot find it here in the states it cant be that complicated.

I was looking at getting some last month but I haven't yet. I am looking at getting this Sprayon red insulating varnish. it looks like there is some at Grainger near you. When you click on the "where can I buy sprayon products" the submit button does not work I had to go up to the tab and click on the where to buy tab to find a distributor.

Also I believe this is what DoctorBass used on Amazon.
 
Scott said:
ecruz said:
Also does anyone know where I can get the electronic sealing orange spray, I cannot find it here in the states it cant be that complicated.

I was looking at getting some last month but I haven't yet. I am looking at getting this Sprayon red insulating varnish. it looks like there is some at Grainger near you. When you click on the "where can I buy sprayon products" the submit button does not work I had to go up to the tab and click on the where to buy tab to find a distributor.

Also I believe this is what DoctorBass used on Amazon.


Thank you SCOTT your a better googler than me :shock:
 
you're welcome,
I spent a few hours trying to find out what the name of it was and I also asked where to get it from thats how I found it so quickly this time.

I'm really interested to see how this works out for you because I need to do the same thing with my motor.
 
Scott said:
you're welcome,
I spent a few hours trying to find out what the name of it was and I also asked where to get it from thats how I found it so quickly this time.

I'm really interested to see how this works out for you because I need to do the same thing with my motor.

I even found it under the name in ebay. Now that I have the name of a vendor in the states lol. As always I am the Guinea pig
 

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So all last night I was going through correspondence over ES and email with people who have Cros. The guys over at Zelena said running it at 72v@max 100A battery at 60km/h for 30km won't get it above 90c. Someone else mentioned they had there's running at 30mph for 30miles and it only got slightly warm but easy to touch.

I'll also have a pack around 2500wh running 60A battery, so I'll be interested to see how much range I can get out of it before the temperature hits 90c without stopping doing 45km/h.
 
Mammalian04 said:
Hyena, what motor do you suggest as the better offroading slower speed alternative to the Cromotor?
I like the TC65 but the cro is fine, just don't set your controller to deliver a million amps at really high voltage. For many years I've been running 18S lipo at 80-100 amps and found it the sweet spot for performance, efficiency and reliability. I have run 24S briefly but the system instantly draws more power and current and a bunch of that is being dumped as heat.

Offroader said:
Hyena has a fighter that supposedly comes with only 1000WH of battery capacity, compare that to 2664WH of capacity that I have. He may have modified his battery, but I doubt he has close to 2664, he simply doesn't have the space. If he had 2664 WH of battery capacity, which is a ridiculously large amount of capacity, he would be looking at much different conditions.
I'm running an aftermarket battery that is 1250whr, but yes with the extra capacity it does give you more range to potentially get the motor hotter. Again though it depends how you ride - go hard for a bit then back off for a bit then hit it again. Are you guys really going balls to the wall for an hour continuously ?? Sometimes I go for long rides and dont use much power, sometimes I race around like a maniac pulling big power for 20 minutes then go home. Either way as I said previously with temp monitoring in place it's hard to really kill a motor.

I have been stopping and letting it cool off, but once it hits that point of fully saturated it doesn't take much to drive that motor to high temps.
Actually stopping is the worst thing you can do, unless you're getting off to pee on the motor :lol:
Once you get a motor saturated the only way it can shed the heat is through the side covers. If you stop that heat can only passively radiate out. If you keep moving the air moving by will cool it much more quickly. Like blowing on a hot cup of coffee or similar. If you get a motor hot the best thing to do is to pedal it around for a few minutes or use very light throttle to keep the bike moving without drawing much power. If you look at the temps while racing around it might be 110oC but stop for 30 seconds and it'll suddenly jump to maybe 130oC. This caught me out once when I was running late for work so took my stealth and rode pretty much full throttle all the way. Everything was fine until I stopped at a major intersection and in the time it took for the lights to change the motor overheated and tripped the thermostat.

You will probably need over 1000WH of battery capacity before you fully saturate that motor with heat. Then you really need to let the motor cool off for hours to bring it back under control.
Not really, you can get a motor scalding hot in 10 minutes of hard riding, or even less. Depending on ambient temperature it will usually cool down sufficiently to take off again after around 10 minutes. I know in my fighter if it trips the 130oC thermostat I have to pedal slowly for around 5 minutes before it drops back to ~100oC when the thermostat releases. This is obviously a fairly basic safeguard and the accurate thermal rollbacks with the CAV3 is superior and more user friendly, but it wasn't out a few years back when I started really pushing high power and needed something in place. The motor doesn't have to be cool, 100oC is fine if you keep moving.

But yeah, ambient temp is certainly an issue. If it's 40oC / ~100oF ambient then things will overheat MUCH quicker and at much lower power levels.
 
Hey guys..... Check this thread out. :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=60903

What lurks on the other side of this link will surely interest you....
 
Just thought I'd give another review, I'm really loving this bike this summer, especially now having added the extra battery capacity. It allows me to go places I just would not go without it. Not because I couldn't reach the places, but once I got there I wouldn't be able to ride around the place for a long time.

The raptor never fails to also amaze me by how comfortable the bike is riding. The suspension is so soft, the motorcycle seat so comfortable, I can sit down through the harshest offroad trails and if I get thrown off the seat, I know I will land back on the soft seat someplace. I also have no trouble pedaling the bike as I do now more on offroad trails to help keep the motor cooler as I ride at slower speeds. Having that extra battery capacity also makes having that motorcycle seat so much more important as these rides last for a very long time.

Not only is the bike so comfortable to ride, it handles really well and has never lost traction once. The suspension makes the ride plush, but also doesn't bounce me off the seat either. I think I finally got it tuned properly now, especially the rear shock and spring weight. The Zee brakes just stop the bike instantly and are so smooth, you really have great control of how fast you want to stop.

The bike gets an extremely lot of attention from everybody, each ride I have very different kinds of people approaching or pulling up to me asking questions.

Some pictures below all on the same day and a single charge. Now I can travel far to different places and even ride around those places for a long time.

Green Ponds



Nice Views


Deep Forest Riding


Nice small lake


Lets finish the ride with a ride to the beach


The bike is exhausted
 
can someone tell me where the Temp Probe is installed when it comes from Zelena?

Talking about Temps without knowing where the Probe is located means nothing...because installed on Phase/Winding you get every Temp peaks on accelerating. But it cools much quicker down. Theres no worry about Temps about 150/160°c

Installed on Stator means you get not the Peaks, only the "satur'd" Stator. Temps above 90°c is not recommend.

I rode a few 1000km with 150°c Max Temps on Phase/Windings Tempprobe. Opened the Motor and the Windings looks as new.


about cooling: i rode this motor as i wrote a few 1000km. After that i drilled 1" Big Holes on every site.
The Temps on same way to work were not even half. i could push 2,5-3,5KW on my way to work.
Arrived at work i hade 110/120°c
after drilling holes i had with 4,5KW max only 70/75°

On the way Home i had a 4km freeway and can run full throttle. Before: +150°c After 100°c

when someone ask me what is the difference between closed and drilled......Realistic 30-40% more Power with same Temps.
 
Gents,

I am preparing to order the packs for my 2 Raptor builds from Cellman at EM3EV.com or Lilian at supowerbattery@gmail.com. It seems like the 25r and VTC5 are the preferred cells. I think I will go with 25r for the lower price. As far as size, I am considering 22s10p and 22s12p total capacity.

This will be using the MaxE BMS and will power Cromotors.

Anyone have any input on the potential arrangements below (e.g. configuration for serviceability, BMS considerations, etc)?

*The blue area is the frame opening and the gray background is just for reference if you were to slide a 200x300mm square inside. There is a little additional room inside the frame beyond the opening but I don't have the schematic drawing for that yet.

First option is 22s10p with the controller mounted outside the frame OR inside in a vertical position - Any issues with making battery pack(s) this dense? I have drawn the scale using the LEGO type spacers (essentially 20x20mm for every cell)
22s10p in Raptor 140.png

Second option is 22s12p with the controller outside the frame OR squeezed into the frame neck
 
Hyena said:
Mammalian04 said:
Hyena, what motor do you suggest as the better offroading slower speed alternative to the Cromotor?
I like the TC65 but the cro is fine, just don't set your controller to deliver a million amps at really high voltage. For many years I've been running 18S lipo at 80-100 amps and found it the sweet spot for performance, efficiency and reliability. I have run 24S briefly but the system instantly draws more power and current and a bunch of that is being dumped as heat.

Has anyone heard of a highwind/slow turn Cromotor? Just wondering if there is a possibility to pull the guts out of a Cromotor and stuff it with a different wind (if a slower turn is even made). As I understand things, a higher wind / slower turn motor converts less power into heat at slow speeds?
 
Mammalian04 said:
Hyena said:
Mammalian04 said:
Hyena, what motor do you suggest as the better offroading slower speed alternative to the Cromotor?
I like the TC65 but the cro is fine, just don't set your controller to deliver a million amps at really high voltage. For many years I've been running 18S lipo at 80-100 amps and found it the sweet spot for performance, efficiency and reliability. I have run 24S briefly but the system instantly draws more power and current and a bunch of that is being dumped as heat.

Has anyone heard of a highwind/slow turn Cromotor? Just wondering if there is a possibility to pull the guts out of a Cromotor and stuff it with a different wind (if a slower turn is even made). As I understand things, a higher wind / slower turn motor converts less power into heat at slow speeds?

Near as I can tell, the Greyborg Cromotor has a 4 turn stator. Not sure if Greyborg has different turn stator options. That being said, Hyena has a line of Chinese cromotor type clones. I believe those motors are running a 3 turn stator because of how fast they are. I speculated that those motors were good for about 35-37MPH with 12s which Hyena agreed based on him getting 60+MPH with 24s. Greybog lists the Cromotor with a 24"MTB wheel at 29MPH with 50 volts on their website. I don't think there is a cromotor, or a cro clone out there with a 5 turn stator.
 
Rix said:
Near as I can tell, the Greyborg Cromotor has a 4 turn stator. Not sure if Greyborg has different turn stator options. That being said, Hyena has a line of Chinese cromotor type clones. I believe those motors are running a 3 turn stator because of how fast they are. I speculated that those motors were good for about 35-37MPH with 12s which Hyena agreed based on him getting 60+MPH with 24s. Greybog lists the Cromotor with a 24"MTB wheel at 29MPH with 50 volts on their website. I don't think there is a cromotor, or a cro clone out there with a 5 turn stator.

Thanks Rick, so to get a motor optimized for slow speed (hills and such), we would want a to go from 4 turn to 5 turn or higher, correct?

I'll shoot Jeremy at Greyborg USA and see if what thought or plans may exist in that area.

Thanks!
 
Mammalian04 said:
Rix said:
Near as I can tell, the Greyborg Cromotor has a 4 turn stator. Not sure if Greyborg has different turn stator options. That being said, Hyena has a line of Chinese cromotor type clones. I believe those motors are running a 3 turn stator because of how fast they are. I speculated that those motors were good for about 35-37MPH with 12s which Hyena agreed based on him getting 60+MPH with 24s. Greybog lists the Cromotor with a 24"MTB wheel at 29MPH with 50 volts on their website. I don't think there is a cromotor, or a cro clone out there with a 5 turn stator.

Thanks Rick, so to get a motor optimized for slow speed (hills and such), we would want a to go from 4 turn to 5 turn or higher, correct?

I'll shoot Jeremy at Greyborg USA and see if what thought or plans may exist in that area.

Thanks!

I can't personally speak for the cromotor, but I can speak for the 5404 (4 turn stator) and the 5405 (5 turn stator). At 80 volts and 70 amps, there wasn't much difference between the 5404 and 5405 in terms of acceleration. The 5405 had a slight advantage off the line over the 5404. However, the 5404 was 6MPh faster than the 5405. Thats it. I was disappointed slightly, but the 5405 didn't appear to get as hot as the 5404 when hill climbing. Running WOT, the 5405 would go about 38-39MPH and the 5404 would go about 44-45MPH. The 5405 at 39MPH was drawing about 2800wh vs the 5404 at 45 drawing 3300wh. Not sure if the increase in WH consumption was because the 5404 needed more current to go faster, or if it was wind resistance factor due to increased velocity. When I identified the difference, I consulted with Kepler and Hyena in the form of PMs. In short, both agreed that running higher voltages would yeild more noticable differences between the 5404 and 5405. So the question is, what kind of voltages are you planning to run. If you plan on keeping voltage in the 50-80 volt range, you will not benefit much from a 5 turn stator over a 4 turn stator on the cromotor.....in my opinion.
 
Rix said:
...higher voltages would yeild more noticable differences between the 5404 and 5405. So the question is, what kind of voltages are you planning to run. If you plan on keeping voltage in the 50-80 volt range, you will not benefit much from a 5 turn stator over a 4 turn stator on the cromotor.....in my opinion.

I plan on running 22s of 25R (or something similar). I think that makes the voltage 22*4.3= 94.6v. Or should I be using the listed nominal voltage for the cell that says 3.6v making things 22*3.6= 79.2?

I think 22s is the most I can run with the MaxE because the max "hot off charge" voltage can't exceed the controller's maximum rating of 98v. Even 94.6v isn't a whole heck of a lot higher than the 50v-80v that you said would not amount to noticeable difference...
 
Rix said:
Hyena has a line of Chinese cromotor type clones. I believe those motors are running a 3 turn stator because of how fast they are. I speculated that those motors were good for about 35-37MPH with 12s which Hyena agreed based on him getting 60+MPH with 24s. Greybog lists the Cromotor with a 24"MTB wheel at 29MPH with 50 volts on their website. I don't think there is a cromotor, or a cro clone out there with a 5 turn stator.
Just because it's not widely known to the ES community yet doesn't mean a certain person who's been testing faster motors isn't having slower ones wound as we speak. This person is looking at offering them as a package with raptor frames but might just have a few left over for others too :wink:
The TC65 at 70-90v really shines, what I'm looking at is basically a bigger version of that that's more easily laced into moto rims.


Rix said:
If you plan on keeping voltage in the 50-80 volt range, you will not benefit much from a 5 turn stator over a 4 turn stator on the cromotor.....in my opinion.
We're probably better to talk in terms of faster or slower wind motors (or kv) rather than actual turns as it will vary between motors of different width and size. But yes, 50v on a 5 turn motor like the 540x makes for rather underwhelming top speed but it'll be virtually indestructible. Look at the motor efficiency curves, if you're riding a faster wind motor on slow twisty stuff you're at a very low part of the motors efficiency curve and you'll heat up the motor pretty quickly. A slower wind motor I reckon 72/80v is the sweet spot for these sorts of motors though in terms of performance and efficiency. For those that don't want to break the sound barrier and are happy with a top speed of around 60kmhr/37mph. And lets be honest, for actual proper mountain bike trail type riding that's plenty fast enough. If you want to go faster continuously (eg more open fire trails etc) then higher voltage or a faster wind motor is more appropriate.

It's the old story of choosing the best tool for the job, and unfortunately with a lack of gearing available on direct drive motors you need to pick a wind and voltage suitable to how you ride most of the time. They are somewhat 'one size fits all' and sure you can get great torque from a fast wind motor down low but the trade off is you have to throw heaps of current at it which quickly heats up the motor.

I had PM from someone saying they didn't understand what I was saying so here's an example from the ebikes.ca simulator that hopefully makes it more simple.
It's using the H3525 and H3545. These are obviously a smaller motor but it highlights the point of how the same motor in 2 different winds and fed different voltages behaves differently.

I've used a speed of 35km/hr / 22mph which I find is an average sort of speed you're likely to be riding mtb singletrack type stuff. Obviously you burst higher speed on straights and drop lower under brakes in the corners, but yeah, it's just as an average.
Look at the efficiency difference between the 2 motors. Motor A, the slower wind at 60v with a 70A controller is pulling just shy of 2000w. Motor B is the same motor but wound for higher speed, using the same controller but and with a 80v battery. This is vaguely more equivalent to the sort of thing most of the guys who are cooking motors are running. The faster wind motor is drawing a huge 5300w to do the same speed on this single track! More than 2.5 times the power and efficiency is only 54% vs 74%. If you've got a small battery you may flatten it before you cook the motor but on a raptor with a belly full of lithium it's RIP motor. If this is the sort of riding you want to do then motor A is the clear winner.

 
Quick change of subject for all you Raptorites...would a 167mm steerer length be enough on dual crown forks for the raptor? The head tube length is listed at 150mm on Qulbix site so I'm thinking 167mm doesn't leave much room for spacers, stem and head set. I accept the head set doesn't take any length (I think....) and you don't necessarily need spacers...but 17mm still seems a little tight to me. Also removes the ability to play with stem (and therefore handlebar) height. Any feedback from those that are up and riding on the frame?

Reason for the query, I've found a pair of second hand forks but the steerer length is 167mm.
 
Dark Knight said:
Quick change of subject for all you Raptorites...would a 167mm steerer length be enough on dual crown forks for the raptor? The head tube length is listed at 150mm on Qulbix site so I'm thinking 167mm doesn't leave much room for spacers, stem and head set. I accept the head set doesn't take any length (I think....) and you don't necessarily need spacers...but 17mm still seems a little tight to me. Also removes the ability to play with stem (and therefore handlebar) height. Any feedback from those that are up and riding on the frame?

Reason for the query, I've found a pair of second hand forks but the steerer length is 167mm.


Im afraid you are too short not one spacer would fit!!! No punt intended! :lol:

What are you getting? If it is a RockShox Boxxer let me know, I have one in black for sale that has a long stem that would fit the raptor year 2009 mint condition. I would give you a good deal and will ship to Australia for you. Not sure what shipping would be however. PM me if you want it or anyone else before I put it on Ebay.
 
Mammalian04 said:
Rix said:
...higher voltages would yeild more noticable differences between the 5404 and 5405. So the question is, what kind of voltages are you planning to run. If you plan on keeping voltage in the 50-80 volt range, you will not benefit much from a 5 turn stator over a 4 turn stator on the cromotor.....in my opinion.

I plan on running 22s of 25R (or something similar). I think that makes the voltage 22*4.3= 94.6v. Or should I be using the listed nominal voltage for the cell that says 3.6v making things 22*3.6= 79.2?

I think 22s is the most I can run with the MaxE because the max "hot off charge" voltage can't exceed the controller's maximum rating of 98v. Even 94.6v isn't a whole heck of a lot higher than the 50v-80v that you said would not amount to noticeable difference...


22S is the most you will be able to on the Max-E I have already asked them. Also you count of the v of a full battery pack. So yes 4.2-4.3 whatever your battery comes out at.
 
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