Qulbix Raptor ebike + frame kit
- Thread starter sk8norcal
- Start date
Rix
100 TW
Thanks Offroader, I am getting a new mic, mine is a POS!, its not digital, but a 6 dollar harbor freight special that I cant read some measurements with. Yes, I was expecting the tire to grow a little wider with the slightly wider rim. Some time this week, I will mount my 3.00-17 onto my 5403 with the 17x1.4 laying around, inflate, and measure when I get a digital Mic, if your getting 3.26 inches on the 1.6, then the 1.4 should come out around 3.20 even. We shall see. Thanks again.
Rick
Rick
Rix
100 TW
Mammalian04 said:
Missed this. Being that I have ran the 19, 17 and 18, in that order, this is my take. The 19 rolls slightly better over bumpy stutters and washboards at speed with less active feed back from the rear, but, the 17 accelerates a little better, desends with more confidence, and climbing hills, is the sweetest set up of all. The 18 is exactly where the size would say it should be, slightly less feed back than the 17 on small high speed stutters, acclerates faster than the 19, likes hills and descending better than the 19. And of course, I am comparing all sizes with the SR241, which was 2.75 on the 19, 2.75 and 3.00 on the 17, and 2.75 on the 18. Like Offroader said, the knobs on the 3.00-17 are probably the best for traction because of the slightly softer knobs and can probably take a beating better on square edges, stairs and steps. I know it sticks in loose corners on down hills better than both the 18 and 19.
It will be interesting how the 18x3.00 works out for you. It seems the fatter the tire the better with these heavy hub motors. Being able to lower the PSI also makes a big difference.
The 17x3.00 was much more stable in this dirt path that has a 3" rut in the dirt. I used to get kicked around a lot in that with my 19x2.75, but the 17x3.00 with the lower PSI and much thicker knobs was like riding in the rut wasn't even there.
I found myself wanting to ride over everything with that 17x3.00, it would cushion the rear hits a lot. I think key is to have a smaller rim and a larger tire.
The 18x3.00 tire is almost the same size as the 19x2.75 tire. It only makes sense that an 18x3.00 should be used in a place of a 19x2.75 for people who don't want to go as small as a 17x3.00.
I'm thinking if you're building an offroad bike then the 17x3.00 is probably the way to go.
Rix, what do you think about those 3.5" tires? Would that be crazy running one of those?
The 17x3.00 was much more stable in this dirt path that has a 3" rut in the dirt. I used to get kicked around a lot in that with my 19x2.75, but the 17x3.00 with the lower PSI and much thicker knobs was like riding in the rut wasn't even there.
I found myself wanting to ride over everything with that 17x3.00, it would cushion the rear hits a lot. I think key is to have a smaller rim and a larger tire.
The 18x3.00 tire is almost the same size as the 19x2.75 tire. It only makes sense that an 18x3.00 should be used in a place of a 19x2.75 for people who don't want to go as small as a 17x3.00.
I'm thinking if you're building an offroad bike then the 17x3.00 is probably the way to go.
Rix, what do you think about those 3.5" tires? Would that be crazy running one of those?
Mammalian04
100 kW
Offroader said:
grr... You guys almost have me convinced. I know everyone's taste is different but I really don't like the look of the small rear tires. That being said, John over at Holmes is about to lace up 2 Cromotors to a 19x1.85 and a 19x1.4. I am tempted to have him skip the 19x1.4 and lace up to one of his 17s now.... Stop spending my money guys!!!! lol....
BTW, I am not considering cancelling the 19x1.85 for the 17 because that one is a blue rim to match her frame. I can't go messin' around with what has been approved there!
Dark Knight
100 W
Rightio - I've been a bit quiet of late...just trying to line all of the remaining parts up for the build and then get cracking.
I've identified some forks @ Jenson cycles however they won't post to Oz - anyone still willing to be my drop shipper. Mammalian...I know you put your hand up some time ago...does the offer still stand? It'll be a grands worth of forks, and I think postage to oz is around USD60 (which I'll obviously cover). Free postage within the US fortunately...and hoping there won't be any US sales tax.
If anyone can do for me, please PM me...and include your detailed address.
Thanks in advance!
I've identified some forks @ Jenson cycles however they won't post to Oz - anyone still willing to be my drop shipper. Mammalian...I know you put your hand up some time ago...does the offer still stand? It'll be a grands worth of forks, and I think postage to oz is around USD60 (which I'll obviously cover). Free postage within the US fortunately...and hoping there won't be any US sales tax.
If anyone can do for me, please PM me...and include your detailed address.
Thanks in advance!
marcn
100 W
Why don't you use a ship forwarder DK?
Dark Knight
100 W
I guess I could - got any suggestions?
marcn
100 W
Shipitto is fast and cheap and comes highly recommended.
Dark Knight
100 W
Only downside with freight forwarder is less likely to fly under the radar from an imports perspective...and they charge more than just the postage...even Shipoitto.
Would prefer to fling a fellow ESer a few quid if required and get it forwarded in 'plain packaging'.
If no one can do then I'll look at a freight forwarder.
Thanks for the info Marcn - and apologies to all for hijacking the thread.
Would prefer to fling a fellow ESer a few quid if required and get it forwarded in 'plain packaging'.
If no one can do then I'll look at a freight forwarder.
Thanks for the info Marcn - and apologies to all for hijacking the thread.
marcn
100 W
When i used Shipitto for several bike parts they charged $1 or $2 dollars for one mailbox and can repackage items and remove invoices if required. You're also the one filling out the customs form including declaration value.
Rodney64
100 kW
Dark Knight said:
DK, why don't you buy them in AU. these aren't to bad a price if you're still going for fox 40. Im in the same boat as you looking for forks. I've been searching "online bicycle stores Australia" they're all on special with the run out of the 2014 stock.
http://tbsm.com.au/bike-parts/suspension/forks-dual-crown/fox-2014-40-26-r-o-b-17373
marcn
100 W
Another hurdle. Unfortunately em3ev can no longer build our battery, and our deposit has been refunded. For others who were considering Paul building their 72v+ pack for their Raptor, their response is below. It has me a little concerned. I know batteries over 70V, with a large current potential pose a risk (even if lesser than Lipos). I appreciate them protecting themselves, as they take pride in their work, but I'm curious to know what's happened.
We recently had an incident with a custom battery that we built and supplied to a customer. I think it would be best that we do not take on any more custom batteries until we have things in place to ensure the safety of any battery we build. Safety is important and I don’t want to take chances with safety. Unfortunately, I think we need to refund the deposit, as we are unable to take on this project I’m afraid.
Sorry about that, I hope you can understand where we are coming from.
We recently had an incident with a custom battery that we built and supplied to a customer. I think it would be best that we do not take on any more custom batteries until we have things in place to ensure the safety of any battery we build. Safety is important and I don’t want to take chances with safety. Unfortunately, I think we need to refund the deposit, as we are unable to take on this project I’m afraid.
Sorry about that, I hope you can understand where we are coming from.
Mammalian04 said:
Mammalian04, Are you sure about using a 19x1.85. They weigh like 4lbs! Holmes Hobbies is getting the custom drilled 19x1.6 rims in very shortly, which are a better option.
If you don't like the look of a smaller tire, which to be honest looks high tech on a raptor. Then you should get a 18x3.00 tire over the 19x2.75.
The 18x3.00 is almost the same diameter of the 19x2,75, but you get a much meatier fatter rear tire, longer knobs, which you will be able to run lower PSI with.
I think rix is getting the 18x3.00 and should give us a review.
Rix
100 TW
Offroader said:
The Shinko 3.5-17 is about 4 inches wide and heavy as hell. I was actully considering running it on my CRF250L becuase the 4-17 bogged it down in the sand. Its just to much tire for my 25 hp motorcycle. I really think the 3.5 wide Sr241 in any size would be too much for any ebike not running the enertrac 603 or Cromotor Mammoth. As far as 18" rims go, US Racing Boy rims has a black 18x1.4 which I got on ebay that I will lace up to my 5404 when it arrives. This rim is slightly lighter than the Prowheel racing 17x1.4. Borrani makes 18x1.20, 18x1.40 and 18x1.60 lightweight MC rims for anyone wanting to run this size like I am doing. http://www.borraniamericas.com/html/motorcycle.html Yah, at some point I plan on trying the 3.00-18 Sr241 on my Fighter. I cant do it with 4080, the chain line will hit the side of the tread. I had to cut the knobbies on the right side of the 2.75x18 SR241, just for it to barely clear. I could get a free wheel extender and it would clear. But witht he 5404, the stator covers are wider and it will clear anyway. Probably going to be a fall project.
I'm having some bad luck. Almost two weeks down when I melted the glue holding my magnets together in my cromotor. Then I bent my rotor for not removing it while opening the motor up, If those torx bolts were not so easy to strip. I had to order a new rotor.
Finally got my bike on the road today. It was a blast with the 17" tire, so much power and stability, it's like a different bike. I had it on gravel roads and I couldn't believe how stable it is compared to the crappy 19x2.75 tire. I took it down a road that was covered with fist size rocks that would scare me on the 19" but was very stable with the 17". I basically consider the 19x2.75 as a safety hazard as its such a crap tire compared to the 17x3.00.
I stopped to let my motor cool off and decided to quickly check spoke tension and true the wheel, it was perfectly true and is holding true since I built it. I was so happy about that.
I've been taking it easy with my rim as I have small 12 guage spokes and also do not want to damage my new cromotor.
I was riding in a park that had a very small hill and at the bottom of the hill is a deep valley, about a foot deep, that runs parallel with the paved foot path. I wasn't even going that fast and when I saw this valley after coming over the top of the hill I said "oh shit" as I knew it wasn't going to be good and I couldn't avoid it at this point. As I drove into it I heard a crack.
I think my rear tire caught the sharp edge of the paved foot path. Broke 14 spokes. At first I thought I cracked my new cromotor. I also noticed the lip on one side of my brand new rim was slightly bent.
I think if you hit these rear tires just right the spokes crack. They won't crack with jumps and normal stuff no matter how hard you beat it, but hit something at the right angle and the spokes just break.
This just sucks, I can't seem to win with this bike. I had to push the bike back home.
Looks like 14 spokes broke, I removed them as to not scratch the motor.
Rim got bent on the lip. I won't know how true it is until I get new spokes.
Finally got my bike on the road today. It was a blast with the 17" tire, so much power and stability, it's like a different bike. I had it on gravel roads and I couldn't believe how stable it is compared to the crappy 19x2.75 tire. I took it down a road that was covered with fist size rocks that would scare me on the 19" but was very stable with the 17". I basically consider the 19x2.75 as a safety hazard as its such a crap tire compared to the 17x3.00.
I stopped to let my motor cool off and decided to quickly check spoke tension and true the wheel, it was perfectly true and is holding true since I built it. I was so happy about that.
I've been taking it easy with my rim as I have small 12 guage spokes and also do not want to damage my new cromotor.
I was riding in a park that had a very small hill and at the bottom of the hill is a deep valley, about a foot deep, that runs parallel with the paved foot path. I wasn't even going that fast and when I saw this valley after coming over the top of the hill I said "oh shit" as I knew it wasn't going to be good and I couldn't avoid it at this point. As I drove into it I heard a crack.
I think my rear tire caught the sharp edge of the paved foot path. Broke 14 spokes. At first I thought I cracked my new cromotor. I also noticed the lip on one side of my brand new rim was slightly bent.
I think if you hit these rear tires just right the spokes crack. They won't crack with jumps and normal stuff no matter how hard you beat it, but hit something at the right angle and the spokes just break.
This just sucks, I can't seem to win with this bike. I had to push the bike back home.
Looks like 14 spokes broke, I removed them as to not scratch the motor.
Rim got bent on the lip. I won't know how true it is until I get new spokes.
Hyena
10 GW
Ouch, bad run of luck indeed offroader!
Sounds like such a hard whack would have ended badly anyway but why are you only running 12ga spokes ?
Your findings with the 17" vs 19" wheel are interesting. I noticed a big difference in feel when I went from 24x3 bicycle tyres to the stiffer 19x2.75 shinkos, the shinkos feeling much more solid and motorbike-ish in handling. I wouldn't have said there was any noticable difference though I rode Rix's bomber with 17s, though to be fair I didnt ride them back to back as you did.
Sounds like such a hard whack would have ended badly anyway but why are you only running 12ga spokes ?
Your findings with the 17" vs 19" wheel are interesting. I noticed a big difference in feel when I went from 24x3 bicycle tyres to the stiffer 19x2.75 shinkos, the shinkos feeling much more solid and motorbike-ish in handling. I wouldn't have said there was any noticable difference though I rode Rix's bomber with 17s, though to be fair I didnt ride them back to back as you did.
Hyena, the problem is finding thicker spokes here in USA. There is really only one place to buy 9 gauge 90degree bend spokes, and they are difficult to deal with and have long wait times.
Holmes hobbies sells 11/12 gauge, which they were out of stock. I settled for the 12 gauge because they were only $1.00 each and he had them available. I actually intended to get 9 gauge spokes after I made sure of the size first with the 12 gauge.
To be honest, now I'm stuck probably ordering 12 gauge again until I can order the larger spokes or my bike may be out of service for another two weeks.
The shinko 19x2.75 was a dream compared to any bicycle tire and actually I spoke about how good it was. The 17x3.00 is much better than the 19x2.75. I think part of the reason is I am running a low PSI with the 17x3.00. I have to check it but when I push on the tire it feels soft to the touch. The 17x3.00 also has a much deeper tread on them.
I think if I lowered the PSI on my 19x2.75 it would have performed better. The extra torque you get from the smaller 17" tire also makes for a much more fun ride, you feel the extra torque and the climbing ability is amazing. Slow speed handling is also greatly improved, you can do much more with the lower torque.
I hope some other people can use the 17x3.00 tire and compare it to the 19x2.75. I don't think I will be ever putting back on the 19" though.
Holmes hobbies sells 11/12 gauge, which they were out of stock. I settled for the 12 gauge because they were only $1.00 each and he had them available. I actually intended to get 9 gauge spokes after I made sure of the size first with the 12 gauge.
To be honest, now I'm stuck probably ordering 12 gauge again until I can order the larger spokes or my bike may be out of service for another two weeks.
The shinko 19x2.75 was a dream compared to any bicycle tire and actually I spoke about how good it was. The 17x3.00 is much better than the 19x2.75. I think part of the reason is I am running a low PSI with the 17x3.00. I have to check it but when I push on the tire it feels soft to the touch. The 17x3.00 also has a much deeper tread on them.
I think if I lowered the PSI on my 19x2.75 it would have performed better. The extra torque you get from the smaller 17" tire also makes for a much more fun ride, you feel the extra torque and the climbing ability is amazing. Slow speed handling is also greatly improved, you can do much more with the lower torque.
I hope some other people can use the 17x3.00 tire and compare it to the 19x2.75. I don't think I will be ever putting back on the 19" though.
Maybe you ask HH about that disaster. as he is known to be "the best" wheel lacer, i would be interessted what he will say about that.
from my knowing it is not the 12ga. its the tension about the spokes.
spokes will break when they come losen. AND when all spokes are not on the same tension.
thats the secret about spokes. <- thats what a wheebuilder told me and for me it comes clear when i think about tension and forces on the spokes.
if they are to thick, they cant flex. all what they can do is brake.
when the spokes can flex and you hit hard rocks the wheel is maybe not true anymore. but the bike can run "home".
i know you all on mx rims and tyres and you will throw stones about me, but i use the "Normal" Sapim strong spokes with 11-12-12 ga.
5000km on my old bike.
and now 250km on the raptor. yep on my old bike that was just light offroad. but with that raptor i tried allready a DH run and there are some serious shit on line ;P
i was some years 5 times a week dedicated to motocross. Never saw a Wheel that has broken more then 2 or 3 spokes. not even missing a 100 foot tripple.
all what i see is some bent spokes and a buckled rim.
(i know my english sounds sometimes not as good. i dont want to piss someone here. all i want to say is that i dont have problems with 11/12ga spokes)
heres a video from the track in Germany. sure i wasnt all the time that fast and dont tried every jump because it was my first ebike run.(with a normal DH Bike it was something like my home track)
unfortunately that was my first and last run with an ebike because dh guys dont like electric guys and ebikes not anymore allowed
[youtube]qNUDSBU8QjI[/youtube]
from my knowing it is not the 12ga. its the tension about the spokes.
spokes will break when they come losen. AND when all spokes are not on the same tension.
thats the secret about spokes. <- thats what a wheebuilder told me and for me it comes clear when i think about tension and forces on the spokes.
if they are to thick, they cant flex. all what they can do is brake.
when the spokes can flex and you hit hard rocks the wheel is maybe not true anymore. but the bike can run "home".
i know you all on mx rims and tyres and you will throw stones about me, but i use the "Normal" Sapim strong spokes with 11-12-12 ga.
5000km on my old bike.
and now 250km on the raptor. yep on my old bike that was just light offroad. but with that raptor i tried allready a DH run and there are some serious shit on line ;P
i was some years 5 times a week dedicated to motocross. Never saw a Wheel that has broken more then 2 or 3 spokes. not even missing a 100 foot tripple.
all what i see is some bent spokes and a buckled rim.
(i know my english sounds sometimes not as good. i dont want to piss someone here. all i want to say is that i dont have problems with 11/12ga spokes)
heres a video from the track in Germany. sure i wasnt all the time that fast and dont tried every jump because it was my first ebike run.(with a normal DH Bike it was something like my home track)
unfortunately that was my first and last run with an ebike because dh guys dont like electric guys and ebikes not anymore allowed
[youtube]qNUDSBU8QjI[/youtube]
Offroader,
Your bike with that 17x 3.0 looks very nice!!
I'm start thinking that is a good idea to have a spare wheel and a controller. I'm getting frustrated waiting so long to get a new controller for my bike ( more then a month)
I will get a new cromotor to lance on a 17" as you speak so well riding that shinko 3.0.
Once I was riding against the sun and I beat a rock very hard and my rim got bent on the lip also, no broken spokes.
What is your spokes length for the 17 rim?
Your bike with that 17x 3.0 looks very nice!!
I'm start thinking that is a good idea to have a spare wheel and a controller. I'm getting frustrated waiting so long to get a new controller for my bike ( more then a month)
I will get a new cromotor to lance on a 17" as you speak so well riding that shinko 3.0.
Once I was riding against the sun and I beat a rock very hard and my rim got bent on the lip also, no broken spokes.
What is your spokes length for the 17 rim?
Thanks E-fuel. The 17x3.00 is the way to go. I saw you post photos of off-roading and if you are doing that then the fatter smaller tire is well worth it. I hope you can get a shinko 17x3.00 in your country. You're going to have to keep the PSI low around 20PSI.
If you're using a cromotor and a prowheel 17" rim, or holmes hobbies 17x1.6 rim, I recommend 108mm spoke length. That should get you close to the top of the nipples.
This is what I hit below that caused me to break my spokes and bend my rim. It's about 10 inches deep.
If you're using a cromotor and a prowheel 17" rim, or holmes hobbies 17x1.6 rim, I recommend 108mm spoke length. That should get you close to the top of the nipples.
This is what I hit below that caused me to break my spokes and bend my rim. It's about 10 inches deep.
I'm going to lace up the 19x1.4 with 12 gage spokes and use the 19x2.75 shinko around a Cromotor but I only ride on new suburban streets with no pot holes. I had my 26 inch bicycle rim bent but that was because I let a non ebike riding friend ride it and he went straight into a curb. I won't make that mistake again. Next time a friend asks I'll put him on my wife's 20mph Hebb. Oh well, lesson learned.
Hyena
10 GW
Speaking of smaller wheels, how are you guys finding this affects your bottom bracket height ? I know you can adjust the shock spacing but I've found that with a 222mm shock (very commonly used) my 140 sits quite low with a BB height of only ~12"
I'm not what you'd call tall at ~5'8 but yeah, it seems like these aren't terribly suited to shorter riders
I'm not what you'd call tall at ~5'8 but yeah, it seems like these aren't terribly suited to shorter riders
Rix
100 TW
Hyena said:
Jay, running a 10.5" long shock (267mm) would be ideal for pushing the swingarm down farther give the BB the clearance it needs for a smaller rear wheel. I am thinking of getting and building a Raptor with a 26 MTB front and a 3.00-18 SR 241 on the 5404. After this last week of riding with Pops, I would say that 13" (330mm) is minimum clearance for offroad. I know, I got to get new crank arm for the Fighter, and I will be going with 160mm for the extra clearence.
Similar threads
