Qulbix Raptor ebike + frame kit

[Rodney64]

Well put Rix. Anyway back on topic now.

 

[Kent]

Now we know the look that is going to get electric bicycles banned from unregistered use nationwide. Great.

If these jackasses would just get moped plates, we wouldn't soon be facing 500W e-bicycles having to be registered and insured. But no, can't do that-- even though they are currently clearly defined as mopeds or even motorcycles under the law.

I'm still waiting for an even more audacious jackass to put pedals on a Tesla Roadster. Legally, that's the same as y'all are doing.

Chalo, your unfriendly tone is unnecessary. Calling your fellow members "jackasses" just diminishes whatever high regard many may have of your numerous contributions over the years.

Perhaps start a new thread discussing the licensing benefits of "electric mopeds" ?

 

[Kent]

same

 

[Offroader]

Chalo is usually blunt like that if you read his posts.

I think I know what got Chalo really worked up. It was seeing the moto seat, LOL.

 

[Mammalian04]

Chalo is usually blunt like that if you read his posts.

I think I know what got Chalo really worked up. It was seeing the moto seat, LOL.

That gets me worked up too! Can't wait for mine! Forks are sitting in my dining room, frame is on its way, and the controller supposedly cleared Russian customs on the 23rd. I may not be able to finish the bikes before my trip but it is still exciting! but also disappointing... but also exciting! -bi-polar expressions over--

 

[snellemin]

Will be nice to have another Raptor in TX. You think you would be able to ride up Mount Bonnell? We should ride around the lake Travis hilly area.

 

[Mammalian04]

Will be nice to have another Raptor in TX. You think you would be able to ride up Mount Bonnell? We should ride around the lake Travis hilly area.

Maybe once. Then half hour cool down for the motor! lol...

 

[Rix]

Chalo is usually blunt like that if you read his posts.

I think I know what got Chalo really worked up. It was seeing the moto seat, LOL.

That gets me worked up too! Can't wait for mine! Forks are sitting in my dining room, frame is on its way, and the controller supposedly cleared Russian customs on the 23rd. I may not be able to finish the bikes before my trip but it is still exciting! but also disappointing... but also exciting! -bi-polar expressions over--

Its not Chalo's bluntness that gets me fired up, its his comment like this one " jackasses would just get moped plates, we wouldn't soon be facing 500W e-bicycles having to be registered and insured". Since we don't do it Chalo's way, Chalo gets to call us names on the thread, well guess what? Fuq Chalo. If Chalo contributed to people's builds with his experiences/findings, and dropped the name calling, I would at least respect him and his opinions as a fellow ebike enthusiast like everyone else. As Rod said, I need move on and get back on topic. So I posted this pic on the wheel build thread, figured I would post it here as well since some of you guys are running or will be running a MC wheel/rim tire on the Raptor's rear. Since Offroader has went to the 17 on the rear on his Raptor, and raved about it so much with the performance advantage over the 19, It got me thinking back to when I ran the 17 on my Bomber all last year and about using the same set up on my Fighter with a 17x1.4 Prowheel racing rim on a 5403. This tire in the pic on the 5403 is of a Duro 2.75-17 HF307. Its probably the longest wearing tire I have ever seen. I had about 300 miles on it and there is no signs of wear. But its not as nice as 3.00-17 SR241 that was on it previously. I still have that tire and plan on mounting it when the time comes. I also still have a new 32 hole 19x1.4 rim laced to a Marzocchi hub that may or may not go on the front as I have found before that the marginal increase in road and off road performance doesn't justify the weight increase. As can be seen in the pictures I got shorter crank arms, Schlumpf 160s on the ATS Speed Drive for the anticipated drop in bottom bracket clearance. What a difference 10mm makes for cornering clearance. Right now with the 2.75-18 tire, I have exactly 13.5 inches of clearance between the BB and the ground. . I was originally going to go shorter to 155 but didn't . But what I think I will do is go to a 10.5" rear shock, that will correct, if anything slightly over correct my BB height by going to a 17. Dang it Offroader, you got me thinking about 17 again and looked what happened.

 

[Mammalian04]

Its not Chalo's bluntness that gets me fired up, its his comment like this one " jackasses would just get moped plates, we wouldn't soon be facing 500W e-bicycles having to be registered and insured".

Yeah, I agree. Not so great but maybe he was just fired up about something. I know I have HATED all Honda Civic drivers for the last 2 weeks since my knee and shoulder have been toast after being squeezed out in traffic on my motorcycle. (Another project to get that bike fixed after I get healed up - though the Raptor might get built first).

As can be seen in the pictures I got shorter crank arms, Schlumpf 160s on the ATS Speed Drive for the anticipated drop in bottom bracket clearance. What a difference 10mm makes for cornering clearance. Right now with the 2.75-18 tire, I have exactly 13.5 inches of clearance between the BB and the ground. . I was originally going to go shorter to 155 but didn't . But what I think I will do is go to a 10.5" rear shock, that will correct, if anything slightly over correct my BB height by going to a 17. Dang it Offroader, you got me thinking about 17 again and looked what happened.

I have been following the 170 vs. 165 threads on MTB forums and was decided on 165. Now seeing 160 on your Bomber has me thinking again. Having the pedals closer together would also make standing on the pedals slightly more similar to the moto-pegs that I am used to. I still feel a bit "wobbly" when going over stuff on a bicycle with my feet spread front and back.

Thanks again for the photos Rix. Super helpful.

 

[Rix]

I have been following the 170 vs. 165 threads on MTB forums and was decided on 165. Now seeing 160 on your Bomber has me thinking again. Having the pedals closer together would also make standing on the pedals slightly more similar to the moto-pegs that I am used to. I still feel a bit "wobbly" when going over stuff on a bicycle with my feet spread front and back.

Thanks again for the photos Rix. Super helpful.

Mammalian, you are correct, I noticed more stand up stability with the shorter cranks going down hill through the rocks. But what I really like about the shorter cranks, is it works better for running my seat a little lower. Yah, I could solve the problem with a dropper seat post, but I found a happy medium between seat height on descents and pedaling on the flats. I would say if your have some 170s, keep them as 165s wouldn't be noticeable. Now that I have had some time on the 160s, I should have went with the 155s like I was originally planning to do. Also another neat thing about the shorter cranks, seat height isn't as critical for pedalability. I believe this would be the ideal crank length for the motor cycle seat option on the Raptor. I know that some mechanical leverage will be lost for the smaller cranks, but that's why I bought an 18t White Industries free wheel, which needless to say, was the first time I have ever had one myself. I have ridden single speeds with them on, I have recommended them to people, but I never held one in my palm until just the other day when it arrived. They are truly a piece of engineering to behold. I haven't mounted it yet. At some point soon, I want to pull the 4080 off the and run the 5403 down the road to see if I get a noticeable increase, which I am expecting from a 2 fold reason. First, the smaller tire and increase in mechanical advantage, the obvious one, but the other is from the dimensional differences of the 5403 over the 4080. 5403 has a 244mm spoke flange vs the 231mm of the 4080, also the 4080 has a true 40mm wide stator but the 5403 has 43mm wide. So I am speculating that the 5403 may pull harder than the 4080 with same volts amps input because of the dimensional difference. I know the 5403 has a 3 turn stator, but the 4080 has a 4 turn stator, but the total copper fill on the 5403 is much much more than the 4080 which is why its around 9.5# heavier. If my performance gain is only marginal, I won't run the 5403, I will stick with the 4080 with the 18 that's on it and use the 5403 on another build down the road. The 18 has been a great compromise between the 19 and 17s I have ran in the past. But now with Offroader praising his set up, jut got me thinking of going back to it which is why I need to try it out. As you can see by the different variables, there are a lot of potential suggestion that would indicate the 5403 will be better, faster, and stronger. But until I actually try, I am just guestimating the outcome.

 

[chilau2000]

.

 

[Merlin]

...so much tire infos

A Fender Update to my Street/Offroad Commuter

 

[marcn]

LOVE that look Merlin! Looks like something vintage out of world war II, those classic bikes people pay a fortune for. Absolutely love it. Without the Raptor sticker it would look even better I think.

 

[Merlin]

yep your right
its a "special-look" i know...but i need Fenders....
Fenders that worked, not the Optical Offroad versions.

About Decals i have to wait about an idea to bring the bike "legal"...For that i have to use a special decal set that it fits a Bike that looks even (dont ask me for now )

 

[Rix]

LOVE that look Merlin! Looks like something vintage out of world war II, those classic bikes people pay a fortune for. Absolutely love it. Without the Raptor sticker it would look even better I think.

+1 Merlin, the looks old school cool!

 

[ecruz]

If these jackasses.

If the shoe fits? Hmmm

 

[Mammalian04]

Ok ok... Now we are stiring the pot. Let's not revisit the stink.

 

[ecruz]

Sorry was out for the weekend 8)

I am looking at this product for the interior of the raptor body. Since 22sx14p is kind of tight for the 18650's the foam space is not much I wanted to see what this would be like. Has anyone ever used this stuff?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sc2uOovYmD0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QkAuZVpA5hU

http://www.tritonwp.com

Another similar product Line-X:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bW0GQHpFgy8

Merlin, very retro! I agree without the stickers it would look more retro cool. How happy are you with the Schlumpf drive?

 

[Rix]

If these jackasses.

If the shoe fits? Hmmm

That's funny. This triton stuff seems interesting, The application potential is awesome. I think building a pack, wrapping with tape, then covering with this stuff would be the way to go. Any battery movement inside of the frame would be dampened with this stuff. www.tritonwp.com The website doesn't list pricing or quantity for sale, do you know that info?

 

[ecruz]

I am looking for it there is a local place here that applies the line-x one and thinking of putting the interior of the frame or thin foam covered in this, as I would want the battery to be able to be inspected from time to time. I will let you guys know my findings.

 

[Holbrook]

Friends- in these Quilbix instructions it says the bearings and spacers are already installed but because our order came without power coat the bearings and spacers are not installed. Can any of you please provide better easy to understand instructions on how to get the bearings and spacers in the Swingarm and the correct order they go in? Do I need a press to push the spacers in the holes? Please provide as many pictures and description as possible.


Please see the attached picture. Is this correct?

 

[Offroader]

Cracked my motorcycle seat. I think this is mostly because of a design flaw.

The bottom of the seat seems to be plastic, which isn't a problem but this plastic piece extends past the metal in the rear.

I flip my bike around on its seat to work on my bike often, at least once per ride I will flip it in the grass to check spoke tension. I also flip it in my garage to work on the rear wheel.
At first this plastic piece cut through the vinyl seat as seen in the photos below.

To flip my bike around easily I found that if you hold the front brake and give it throttle you can easily flip the bike around, I gave a little bit too much throttle and the 130lbs bike fell hard on the rear. It was in the grass but I heard a crack.

The seat still functions because it broke after the screws. I don't know if this will cause future problems.

The problem, in my opinion, is the plastic piece should not have extended past the metal seat frame, this way if you flip the bike around it hits the metal seat frame instead of the plastic.

I guess I could have fixed this by removing the vinyl and trimming the plastic. Sometimes I wonder if the seat should extend further back more. Once in a while I like to sit really far back and wonder if it would have been better if the motorcycle seat was longer. This could just be me though and I would think the motorcycle seat extends much further back than the bicycle seat. I wish more of you used the motorcycle seat so we could give Qulbix better input into its design.

This is the first design flaw that I found on the bike and I have put over a 1000 miles of very hard riding on the bike.

The crack. The very rear part of the seat is loose here, only held on by the vinyl and possibly padding.


Here you can see the holes from the plastic piece cutting through the vinyl seat.

 

[Rix]

I don't think its a design flaw per se, because the frame still goes to the end. The question i am asking; is the frame flexing there causing the plastic to bend and crack after the screws, or is because the screw holes in the weakest point and the seat cracked because of that?

 

[Offroader]

I don't think its a design flaw per se, because the frame still goes to the end. The question i am asking; is the frame flexing there causing the plastic to bend and crack after the screws, or is because the screw holes in the weakest point and the seat cracked because of that?

The plastic piece that sits under the seat extends past the metal frame. This plastic piece makes contact with the ground when flipping the bike around. I guess you can argue that the seat was never made to be flipped around all the time.

The metal frame is solid and there is no flex.

 

[Rix]

I mis-understood you Offroader, sorry about that. I thought you were talking about the seat plate breaking where the yellow arrows are, not the portion where the green arro is. My bad :| Somethign to consider, you can do this with or without repairing, but take some shoe goo and cover the area. The shoogoo will act as a chaffing barier. For years on my duty belt, my radio holder was chaffing evertime I got in and out of my patrol unit. I put some shoo goo on the bottom edge, last five years, no problems what so ever, I will take a pic of the radio holder and post it tomorrow so you can see what I am talking about.

Rick