Specialized Big Hit FSR with midmount

Ebiking just got a way brighter future! Can't wait! Nice build, obviously I really like it. Lucky score for the guy that got your bike!
 
Tench said:
MitchJi said:
Might make sense to either sell copies of your existing frame or your next build (build more than one).

You hit the Nail on the head. I am designing a new frame with the intention of making it suitable for a multitude of different motors from hubbies in the wheel to a variety of mid mount options. I am going to build several complete bikes all with different motors to work out the finer design issues and then when i am happy i will produce a batch of frames.
It will of course have to look like which ever motor is used that it was made just for that motor, i wont be happy with the design untill i achieve this. It also has to be able to accomodate a multitude of battery options and controler sizes.
I allready have the basic design planned out, i just need to buy several motors now to work out the finer details.

Time to start saving then. Kids didnt need to go to College anyways...
 
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In the mountains, the range uphill is about 20 kilometers (40 km forth and back).
You need to leave the controler cool down from times to times if the ascent is continuous...the engine will stop itself anyways to avoid burning.

Reactions from people crossed on the mountain path go from sympathy to admiration when they witness you getting to refuges silently on the top...when they hear the noise of the engine, some cant help yieling a "cheater!" :D

Test yesterday on both tarmac and gravel gave 41 kilometers up and down with a total of 1200 m climb (1h40 total) at an average of 25 km/h.
Test today mainly on gravel : 11km uphill sucked half of the 15 Ah available, again at 25 km/h average with 700 m climb.
 
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Anybody would know Simon's direct email address? After two month of intensive use, i need to replace a few parts (the motor sprocket is ruined and makes a lot of noise and i cant find it as well as the tool to dismount it) and would certainly need some support. His absence from the forum is certainly frustrating...I can t recharge the lights batteries due to early Alzheimer as well! :cry:

I m thinking about adding a 14 speed Rohloff as well and would like his opinion...
 
Hi courcheval

looking at the last picture regarding the motor sprocket... to me the motor sprocket just looks like a freewheel
/ if that is correct ...
- removing the outer piece which looks like it is bolted on with three bolts and another in the center...
a visit to a bmx or bike shop may have a removal tool that fits..
 
Hi,
courcheval said:
Anybody would know Simon's direct email address?

https://www.google.co.uk/#hl=en&scl...pw.r_qf.&fp=c381ccbcb900279d&biw=1156&bih=791
You might be able to get a phone number or physical address using the information above. If not you can try sending him a pm or asking for contact info on another forum.

Looks like bsaog worked about a year ago:
http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread...-in-contact-with-simon-(tench)-howarth-please
10-01-2011
Can anyone put me in contact with simon (tench) howarth please
iv sent him a pm on the bsaog site.
Thanks for that much appreciated.
 
Thanks a lot Mitch, i ll try those links :idea:

Mitz, nice suggestion, but my bicycle mechanic thinks it s a trial motorbike sproket and my motorcycle mechanic says it s a bicycle sproket :mrgreen: Regarding the tool, i bought a 24mm "clé à créneaux" (no idea how s that spelled in English) online but the 4 teeth do not fit the holes and i can t find anything here in France that would fit the 26mm i measured.
 
courcheval said:
Anybody would know Simon's direct email address?
I m thinking about adding a 14 speed Rohloff as well and would like his opinion...

i have allways liked the idea of a rohloff, but after riding an e-spire 1000w with one, no go im afraid, you have to lift of the throttle for each gear change (14 of)
i you slip up the rohloff got a bit grindy and apparently thats also where the main e-spire warranty issues are..
nilly blew $2k on that experiment myself. :roll:
 
The nice thing about the Rohloff, I talked to the USA distributor/ repair center (cycle monkey) and it has a set of plastic teeth that strip to protect it if you over torque it.

To replace these teeth is a minor repair job ($70 from cycle monkey). Because of these teeth you do not risk stripping the gears on the entire unit. These teeth are the only thing you are risking when you put massive torque on a rohloff.

Also remember the optibike 1100 comes with a rohloff and does just fine.

I personally think a rohloff would be terrific and be worth the cost for this bike. No one on ES has tried one on a high powered bike as far as i know so you would be in unchartered territory, but as long as you have a rohloff service center close to you, you are risking very little.
 
well if money is not a boundry then try pitting the Rohloff against a
990S Cobalt 90 Motor with Superbox at only 34oz with a upcoming 1×10 systems from Hope tech on a sub 25oz rear wheel.
 
Hello all.

Back to the Alps and as a matter of fact to using Tench Big Hit.

I got the Rolhoff set up today, which was not an easy task since nothing is standard on the bike. I do have a problem still to solve that the bike shop couldnt solve and need your help.

The magnet for the sensor of the bike analyst used to be placed on the rear brake disk. Due to the need to change the rear brake to fit the Rolhoff, we couldnt place the magnet at the same place anymore. So i got it fixed a bit higher on a spoke.

The problem is that now the Analyst gives incoherent speed indications, 20 times what it should be (400 km/h at 20 km/h real speed). This leads the controller to stop the engine each time i reach 5 km/h since the 99 km/h speed limit is reached.

I m surprised that changing the location of the magnet changed the settings, since i thought it only depended on the wheel circomference, not where the magnet is placed.

I first thought about cancelling the speed limit to allow me to ride the bike by the time i find out how to get correct speed information. But it seems impossible.

Anybody familiar with the bike analyst could give sound advises to fix that problem, so that i can use the bike again?

Thanks for sharing your expertise.
 
Just a long shot here as I am a noob to all this electric jargon. Are you sure your pole count setting with in the CA has not changed. I know when I went from a DD hub to my mac 10t I had to change that to get my speed-O to work more normally.
 
thanks Wayne, you are right, it s always sound to start by the basics. But unfortunatly, the setting for the wheel circumpherence is right : 1995 mm, which corresponds to a 24 inches wheel with a 2.5 inches tyre. I could of course try to reduce artificially the wheel size to 100 mm to counter the false reading, but i would prefer to find the source of the problem...

Edit : my pole count is @ 01...should i change it? (what is the pole count for the HS3540?)
 
I dont understand your point : the manual says "for units that use speedometer sensor and spoke magnet, poles should be set to 1".

I ll try anyways (without understanding) since Kepler knows fairly well this domain :oops:
 
Looks like this. Since i m not used to the vocabulary yet, i cant answer that question.

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Try to adjust the sensor so that it passes within a couple mm of the magnet. I've had the same problem with the CA reading crazy figures when the sensor doesn't trigger properly as the magnet passes.
 
This may appear to be from the left field- but if you double check the gap and it's all fine, it may be some magnetism in the brake disc affecting the readings.... each spoke of the disc triggering the sensor....
 
Here is a pic of the sensor setting in case Simon would visit the thread :

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Improper sensor position gives you false readings that are multiples of the original. Try repositioning it and reduce the gap if possible. Known issue for the CA.
 
Nicely done!

Nominated for Top 10 E-S eBikes of the Year in the 'Bleeding Edge of Development' category.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=45498
 
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