Sur-Ron - New Mid drive Bike

Merlin said:
and some are Enduro riders that have a passion for 4-6h rides, digging thru new territories :D

I already do go on long rides - and dropping more weight would only extend range.

I"ve been to the top of the mountain which is 28 miles there and back and 6,000+ vertical feet.

Merlin said:
theres no BEST Surron. Theres also not THE best MX Bike. Lets say all differnt classes. Try to fit YOUR Bike to YOUR needs.

:bigthumb:

I agree. If I lived where it was mostly flat, I would want more power. But, I just need to get to the top of the mountain and I can ride as hard as I want to down where being light and nimble pays.

I basically just need a "lift" like a chair lift in a downhill bike park.
 
Very nice cover Merlin!
I too need extra range sometimes. Some of our rides are 70+ miles.
Some hills in Colorado are VERY steep, and often loose. Big soft knobs make a Big difference.
 
Merlin said:
true words. light is key, light is awesome...
but....

a soft knoby tire that eats some extra battery and current rips like a train uphill in lose or muddy conditions

i try to cheat myself a bit with

upgrading upgrading upgrading -> 70kg surron but except of a little bit of handling it masters mostly everything

its a heavy ass surron....but its a suuuuuper lightweight Enduro.

the only real hard or non upgradable issue is the wobbling af swingarm. all tries i saw until now is extend but still same design.(without tubes to prevent flexing)

at the end: i love my surron, with big ass battery, big ass tires and recently with a new battery cover that fits an extender battery very nice :D
Sweet SurRon Merlin, that could sway certain people from buying full on electric dirt bikes like the Alta and KTM.
 
Hey guys, could you share some list of places in Europe that sell Sur Ron bikes and parts online / internationally?
Excluding UK because of Brexit tax rules of course :)
 
tdirider said:
Hey guys, could you share some list of places in Europe that sell Sur Ron bikes and parts online / internationally?
Excluding UK because of Brexit tax rules of course :)

Good to know these guys, not in UK :thumb:
https://www.surronshop.com/
 
tdirider said:
Hey guys, could you share some list of places in Europe that sell Sur Ron bikes and parts online / internationally?
Excluding UK because of Brexit tax rules of course :)

Good to know these guys, they are not in UK :thumb:
https://www.surronshop.com/
 
Can anyone shout out the dropout width of the surron bikes?

I saw some aftermarket axles and they looked around 190mm but getting an exact number would be helpful.

I apologize if this is a naive question, or if there's different dropouts for the light bee or something.

I'm asking because I'm starting design of a custom bike and there are aftermarket surron hubs that seem promising.
 
I have the the new SMPro platinum rear hub here showing 133mm between spacer flanges, add 10mm for the brake anchor, another maybe 20mm each side to get thru the swingarm & chain adjusters. The spacer bore is 12mm.
 
X-Nitro said:
I have the the new SMPro platinum rear hub here showing 133mm between spacer flanges, add 10mm for the brake anchor, another maybe 20mm each side to get thru the swingarm & chain adjusters. The spacer bore is 12mm.

Thanks for replying -- the bolts at this link are 163mm without thread. If I interpret your statement correctly, your hub is 133mm, plus (20+20+10) which gets me to 183. So my guess is somewhere between 163 and 183...still on the hunt for the most accurate number.
 
Ok keep looking, but I'm not sure why you think axle thread or shoulder length specifies other dimensions.
I use the long axle and have 5mm thread extending clear. The combination of NTC disc guard and fat hub floating rotor requires an addnl 3mm spacer on the axle to clear button head disc mount bolts, bad on ntc design.
discnguard2.JPG
 
for sure I definitely dont think the bolt method is any more accurate.
 
X-Nitro said:
Ok keep looking, but I'm not sure why you think axle thread or shoulder length specifies other dimensions.
I use the long axle and have 5mm thread extending clear. The combination of NTC disc guard and fat hub floating rotor requires an addnl 3mm spacer on the axle to clear button head disc mount bolts, bad on ntc design.
discnguard2.JPG

Nice fin, looks trick! :bigthumb:
 
I have that disc guard and rotor,did you use the supplied disc screws( there purple),my friend reused the stock disc screws and had clearance problems,put on the supplied screws no problem.
 
Hawaiiguy said:
I have that disc guard and rotor,did you use the supplied disc screws( there purple),my friend reused the stock disc screws and had clearance problems,put on the supplied screws no problem.

And what supplied screws would those be? The special ones now shipped because I raised hell??
Such a crappy way to fix a clear design flaw. There is no reason on this planet that material needs to exist in close proximity to the bolts, lots of room on the other side, an idiot could see this. The original part even has a clearance channel, kind of a hint eh?
 
Mine and my friends came with low profile purple screws that have clearance.My friend originally reused his stock bolts and had the same clearance problem.Both of our Luna rotor kits had the purple screws included .
 
Rix said:
Nice fin, looks trick! :bigthumb:

Thanks, disc fins are a basic element of dirt-biking.
Talaria needs to take notes here, we will see if they can respond by building the part right in the first place.
I like the strength the ntc guard has but;
These guys make a fancy-looking guard, I hope they get their re-design part shipping soon.
https://www.warp9racing.com/product/surron-rear-disk-guard/
 
Hawaiiguy said:
Mine and my friends came with low profile purple screws that have clearance.My friend originally reused his stock bolts and had the same clearance problem.Both of our Luna rotor kits had the purple screws included .

That's nice, to date luna has supplied me with 0, that is zero, fasteners for the installation of the disc set.
They were unaware of this problem when I bought my set.
I had to solve the problem myself. :)
 
Hi folks, I hope anybody of you can help me.
My hall sensor magnet seems to be faulty. The magnet has slippet up in to the Hall Sensor. I have fixed the magnet with Loctite on the right postion again and i replaced the Hall Sensor with a new one. But i got the motor not running.
My Nucular can not find the right Hall sensor position. I have testet it with 3 Led's on the Sensors Output. The sequence of switching is not what it should be. On one Position all 3 Led's are on.
So for me it looks like that the magnet is faulty.
But Why.
Unfortunally i can not find a replacement of the magnet or even a motor here in germany.
Does anybody can give me a tip what i can do now.
The damage to the magnet on the picture is just from trying to get it off again. Loctite does his job.
 

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Tommm said:
Anyone tried shunting the stock controller? Thing has 36 fets...
UzM6ez.jpg


Can you share how you opened up the Sur Ron X case without damaging it? I've removed the 8 screws and gently to moderately tried to pry it apart but no movement.
 
I don’t know which hall spacing they used but if it’s 60 degrees, there will be one position where all 3 will be on. Most motors are 120 degrees and you should not see all 3 on at the same time.
Do each of the sensor outputs toggle when you turn the motor? Each one should be on 50% of the time as it turns one revolution.
No idea where you can get a new magnet. Not many of these motors have burned up.

You can search for "8 pole encoder magnet". Here's one that looks close:
https://www.culinarydepotinc.com/parts-town-369822-magnet-8-pole/
 
I tested the Sensor it with a working motor from my friend.
Here are only 2 two sensors are on at the same time. Thats ok.

On my Motor, the entire sensor is working. All 3 positions are going on and off while turning. But on one position all 3 sensors are on.
In the picture can you see the Sequence which should be.
I ask me, what the hell can damage the magnet. There where only a few scratches from the sensor on the surface.

I already could pulled out the magnet now. I used a claw puller under the ball bearing to take off the bearing with the magnet.

To test the amount of poles, i have painted some iron powder on the magnet with a cloth between.
Here you kann see, that must bee a 10 pole magnet. But one pole is weak.
With the term multipole magnet i could find some magnets, but not in the right size.
Do you think such a magnet can be created by DIY. ?
Turning an aluminum ring and insert small bar magnets was my idea.
 

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