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Sur-Ron - New Mid drive Bike

Offroader said:
Would anyone know if my battery would have drained down completely?

I have my own modified power supply to charge the sur-ron. However, if I plug in the charger and disconnect the AC power to the charger, the charger still stays on from the power of the battery. This drained my battery down very quickly.

Does anyone know if the charge port of the sur-ron is low voltage protected? Or if my AC power gets unplugged my battery will discharge to 0 volts from the charge port?

You need an IDEAL DIODE CIRCUIT between the charger and the Sur ron Battery.

search for Ideal Diode on amazon...
 
I finally made that video about shunting the controller :D
[youtube]kjQT7CpUh-M[/youtube]
and some hi quality photos :
 

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20kW Sur-ron controller for sale guys!
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=111908

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When adjusting the chain on the Sur-ron,

Do you need to have the notches line up on both sides? What I found is that if I loosen the tension bolt down on one side and then use the other side to adjust the chain tension. When I tighten back up the 17mm axle bolt the notches don't line up on both sides.

You would think that the tire should line up when the axle bolt is tightened up flush against the swing arm, even though the notches don't line up.

There is no way I can see if my tire is lined up by eye.

Any input into this or how you deal with it will be appreciated as I am uncertain how the rear wheel should be tightened back up and if that has anything to do with tire alignment also. I am also uncertain if the notches are really an accurate way of knowing if the wheel is aligned also, so I'm just leaning on using the swingarm and axle bolt to align it like what I have done on other ebikes without these notches.
 
On mine, the notches are off a little from one side to the other. I'm running a belt, so alignment is critical. I used a straight edge across the rear sprocket that goes up to the jackshaft and adjust until they are lined up perfectly.
 
fechter said:
On mine, the notches are off a little from one side to the other. I'm running a belt, so alignment is critical. I used a straight edge across the rear sprocket that goes up to the jackshaft and adjust until they are lined up perfectly.

Interesting, this is what I figured you can't trust those notches. I think there is misinformation about this as some videos say to align based on the notches.

When you did align with a straight edge did you need to use those little tension bolts to adjust the wheel?

Was your alignment pretty close to just tightening the wheel in the dropouts and using the dropouts to align the rear wheel?

Since I'm using a chain do you think I need to worry about alignment that much, or just tighten it inside the dropouts and that should be good enough? That is what I have been doing and everything seems to work out well, plus my brake caliper stays aligned every time also because it gets the wheel in the exact same spot every time.
 
Offroader said:
fechter said:
On mine, the notches are off a little from one side to the other. I'm running a belt, so alignment is critical. I used a straight edge across the rear sprocket that goes up to the jackshaft and adjust until they are lined up perfectly.

Interesting, this is what I figured you can't trust those notches. I think there is misinformation about this as some videos say to align based on the notches.

When you did align with a straight edge did you need to use those little tension bolts to adjust the wheel?

Was your alignment pretty close to just tightening the wheel in the dropouts and using the dropouts to align the rear wheel?

Since I'm using a chain do you think I need to worry about alignment that much, or just tighten it inside the dropouts and that should be good enough? That is what I have been doing and everything seems to work out well, plus my brake caliper stays aligned every time also because it gets the wheel in the exact same spot every time.

I know I read in motocross magazine that pro mx mechanics sometimes dont even use the notches when aligning. The method they use is measuring the axle center to the swingarm pivot center side to side. This removes any machining issues that occur with the axle blocks
 
Offroader said:
Interesting, this is what I figured you can't trust those notches. I think there is misinformation about this as some videos say to align based on the notches.

When you did align with a straight edge did you need to use those little tension bolts to adjust the wheel?

Was your alignment pretty close to just tightening the wheel in the dropouts and using the dropouts to align the rear wheel?

Since I'm using a chain do you think I need to worry about alignment that much, or just tighten it inside the dropouts and that should be good enough? That is what I have been doing and everything seems to work out well, plus my brake caliper stays aligned every time also because it gets the wheel in the exact same spot every time.

Yes, I used the little tension bolts to adjust the axle. Things move around slightly when you tighten the axle bolt so it may take a few tries to get it spot on. With a chain, you don't need to worry about it so much. I'm not sure how it aligns when just tightening the axle bolt as you can't do this with a belt due to the belt tension.
 
I have these KITs for sale at 4000USD but every one is already taken :(
Original Case from Sur-ron for a perfect fit without mods.
72V32Ah 2304Wh (more than this simply does not fit) 20s8p Samsung 40T cells can do up to 280A.
300Amp BMS with BT

Original charger, but for 72V battery with 10A
And of course NUC 24F 20000Watt

Yeah you can get more Ah from some one else, but it will not look like this!
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stepus said:
Hi,
thanks for DC resistance measurment, 10mOhms is what i expected. Its good for stock surron power, at constant 100Amps it will heat at 100W only on copper resistance, but for higher phase amps like 600A uphill its 3600W :D
A little update:
Mosfets have already arrived and I soldered them. It was pretty hard, i must use IR preheat, and hot air gun, classic SMD soldering air station did not have sufficient power. Now I have assembled the controller and see if it still works on surron, and hope i will finaly shunt it to BMS limit, and then shunt BMS to maximum cell current, and then shunt controller for maximum with can stock battery handle :D

I have confirmation that the litebee S is 36 fets: (not my picture) :wink:
 

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But this is classic sqare wave surron old controller, and its been already depotted earlier in this thread... in this controller there are shunt resistors on photos - also easy to shunt. But more interesting is X controller. I know of one person around which probably shorted fets on X controller, I hope controller gets to me eventually and i will depot it :D
 
stepus said:
Hi, a little update:
I succeeded shunted it ! :D
firstly i changed sensitivity from 50mV/10A (batt current 60amp, phs current +-350A) to 33mV/10A - power increased to 83A battery, and 430 phase current, so i changed it to about 25mv/10A (double of my stock power) and now i drawing about 118 battery amps, and 550 phase amps. And it drives as hell ! its whelee machine now, it do wheel spin or instant whelee from standstill :D
I will increase it to about 125 battery amps, and must do shunt BMS, now i get er - 119 on display which is overcurrent fault, or BMS cuts me in a long hill when i run full throttle...
I thing controller can handle even more amps, but stock battery limits me, there is only 11 cells paralel and each cell is 10Amps continous discharge... And i dont want to damage it.
Later i will maybe post some youtube video how to do, and with results.

edit: Does anyone know how much battery current is drawing ASI BAC / NUCULAR on stock surron battery with BMS mod bypass ?

This is great! It looks like you increased current by moving the flux rings, rather than bending the hall sensors at an angle, as others have done previously. Seems like a good idea. Though, you might be able to bend the hall sensors without removing all the potting, just a tiny bit of potting around the sensors themselves. If anyone is interested in a slightly easier mod. Although, it sounds like just opening the case is the hard part...
 
Yes, i offseted flux rings, to lower sensitivity of halls. Bending halls is also possible, but you need to set accurate sensitivity on both halls, and when you bend halls 4th time you can easily broke legs :D or you can put some ferrite rings on halls - it will also lower flux flowing through hall.
I thing opening cover can be easily done by unscrew all screws, and put some pry tool between the aluminum heatsink and the cover and put it in owen. But i dont know if plastic cover, wires and connectors will survive 100C temp without any damage...
 
stepus said:
Yes, i offseted flux rings, to lower sensitivity of halls. Bending halls is also possible, but you need to set accurate sensitivity on both halls, and when you bend halls 4th time you can easily broke legs :D or you can put some ferrite rings on halls - it will also lower flux flowing through hall.
I thing opening cover can be easily done by unscrew all screws, and put some pry tool between the aluminum heatsink and the cover and put it in owen. But i dont know if plastic cover, wires and connectors will survive 100C temp without any damage...

Ferrite rings on the halls sounds like a good idea. It should be easy to keep them both matched and shouldn't require as much depoting.
 
Hey everyone, had my sur-ron stolen from a gated garage this weekend. In the Austin Texas area, here’s a post about it.

Keep an eye out for anyone trying to buy a charger or new ignition.

$1000 reward to anyone that locates it.

https://www.facebook.com/bennett.staley/posts/157034949808080
 
More Asia electric M/C are showing up, there is a nice dirt bike seen @11:00 min this vid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GqbBBNeXH0
 
X-Nitro said:
More Asia electric M/C are showing up, there is a nice dirt bike seen @11:00 min this vid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GqbBBNeXH0

that's the Time et / kollter banshee;)

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=111293
 
I'm going to bite on that time moto. I've been waiting too long for the storm bee. Suspension looks iffy and the welds aren't great, but should hold up fine. Got a price quote of $3800 shipped to the U.S. Month wait time to ship and probably 3 weeks to get here. That puts it in September likely.
 
I thought there was chatter of them doing a redesign on the rear suspension? Because that's a big stumbling block for me.
 
dirkdiggler said:
I'm going to bite on that time moto. I've been waiting too long for the storm bee. Suspension looks iffy and the welds aren't great, but should hold up fine. Got a price quote of $3800 shipped to the U.S. Month wait time to ship and probably 3 weeks to get here. That puts it in September likely.

Where were you quoted that?
 
Just to throw it out there, if anyone is looking for a budget Sur-Ron brake upgrade, Shimano MT520 works well, it's a 4 piston.

I got a good deal on MT520 calipers so I just swapped those and the brakes are better now, more feel and power and they don't overheat where they used to.

MT520 is also super easy to install and bleed.

And for more overheat protection, regardless of which brakes you use, I suggest ceramic brake pads and big Magura MDR-P rotors.
 
I have a 60V Su-Ron battery that I want to use for another project. I see it has an RS-485 port for BMS communication. Has anyone been able to crack the RS-485 protocol and communicate with the BMS?

20210709_104347.jpg
 
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