TSDZ2 EBike wireless standard (like Specialized Turbo Levo) - OpenSource

[casainho]

You guys are getting close. As I start thinking about building the WIRELESS TSDZ2 controller, I'm coming from the MBRUSA camp/fork, so how will my brakes connect? Wired back to the 8 pin HARNESS going from WIRELESS controller (instead of display) to motor?

I really like and will implement @beemac hardwire buttons to wireless motor controller but will also build the remote using bafang keypad.

Great would be good to have some others to test the wired buttons. Wire the four buttons to the same pins as on the wireless remote schematic. Brake signal just goes into the motor - not attached to the wireless board at all if you're not using the remote.

When you guys think we have a stable version, I can design the schematic for the wired remote and update the documentation - a page specifically for the wired remote.

 

[beemac]

You guys are getting close. As I start thinking about building the WIRELESS TSDZ2 controller, I'm coming from the MBRUSA camp/fork, so how will my brakes connect? Wired back to the 8 pin HARNESS going from WIRELESS controller (instead of display) to motor?

I really like and will implement @beemac hardwire buttons to wireless motor controller but will also build the remote using bafang keypad.

Great would be good to have some others to test the wired buttons. Wire the four buttons to the same pins as on the wireless remote schematic. Brake signal just goes into the motor - not attached to the wireless board at all if you're not using the remote.

When you guys think we have a stable version, I can design the schematic for the wired remote and update the documentation - a page specifically for the wired remote.

I did have a go the other day - trying to use the two existing schematics to make one for wired buttons - but KiCad just made me frustrated as it should have been straightforward but I just couldn't get things to align properly - once i'd worked out how you can copy/paste between files... I would like to get to grips with it - so will give it another go - but not tonight

 

[rananna]

@beemac has developed an excellent, power conserving pulse width modulated (PWM) LED signalling library that I have incorporated into the wireless remote, and @beemac has put into the wired remote ( to be attached to the motor controller).
The code is being tested, and a new release is expected soon that incorporates these changes.

 

[Tiger_one]

Flashing bootloader is still giving errors, not solved stlinkv2 loading. I thought I flashed the boot loader on raspberrypi, but on loading zip file (ota firmware) from phone. This:

8 inches snow, internet down.
Cheers

 

[casainho]

Flashing bootloader is still giving errors, not solved stlinkv2 loading.

Please tell again what errors and the full output messages you see when using the stlinkv2.

 

[Tiger_one]

Stlink error: gives same error with stlink-v2.cfg


And from Virtual Box/ubuntu:

 

[Tiger_one]

I think on ubuntu I didnt install the "eabi" stuff, internet still down so will not try installing anything from github now.

Screen from MacOS11.2.1 :

 

[beemac]

I think on ubuntu I didnt install the "eabi" stuff, internet still down so will not try installing anything from github now.

Screen from MacOS11.2.1 :
macOS11.2.1.jpg

Did you cut the shrinkwrap on your stlink adapter to get at SWDIO/SWCLK? The pins exposed on the 6 pin for flashing the motor controller will not flash the nrf...

 

[casainho]

Stlink error: gives same error with stlink-v2.cfg
stlink_error.jpg

I think you should focus on google searches for that specific issue. I have no clue why that can happen but for sure other users outside this project already found that issue.

 

[Tiger_one]

I think on ubuntu I didnt install the "eabi" stuff, internet still down so will not try installing anything from github now.

Screen from MacOS11.2.1 :
macOS11.2.1.jpg

Did you cut the shrinkwrap on your stlink adapter to get at SWDIO/SWCLK? The pins exposed on the 6 pin for flashing the motor controller will not flash the nrf...

No, bought a clone, flashed the stmicronics
Firmware upgrade.
Verfied 3.3v and gnd. Connected swio and clk .
Will post when I find solution, knowing me, most likely simple.

 

[rananna]

Flashing bootloader is still giving errors, not solved stlinkv2 loading. I thought I flashed the boot loader on raspberrypi, but on loading zip file (ota firmware) from phone. This:
Screenshot_20210215-152751_nRF Connect.jpg
8 inches snow, internet down.
Cheers

if you are seeing TSDZ2_DFU in bluetooth, from the NORDIC connect app, it would seem to me that you have flashed the bootloader correctly
If so, the two questions are:
1. what file did you use for the OTA update?
2. How did you load it in the Nordic utility?

If you have the correct OTA file, follow the instructions shown here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=va3LJoiosoc&feature=youtu.be
(ignore the reference to leds flashing, we removed that after the video was made)

 

[beemac]

I think on ubuntu I didnt install the "eabi" stuff, internet still down so will not try installing anything from github now.

Screen from MacOS11.2.1 :
macOS11.2.1.jpg

Did you cut the shrinkwrap on your stlink adapter to get at SWDIO/SWCLK? The pins exposed on the 6 pin for flashing the motor controller will not flash the nrf...

No, bought a clone, flashed the stmicronics
Firmware upgrade.
Verfied 3.3v and gnd. Connected swio and clk .
Will post when I find solution, knowing me, most likely simple.

As casainho said - google is your friend here... first result for "invalid command name 'dap' openocd" gives the below:

https://stackoverflow.com/questions...d-name-dap-cant-connect-blue-pill-via-st-link

Please test and feed back - and if that solves your issue - I will update the documentation

 

[beemac]

@beemac has developed an excellent, power conserving pulse width modulated (PWM) LED signalling library that I have incorporated into the wireless remote, and @beemac has put into the wired remote ( to be attached to the motor controller).
The code is being tested, and a new release is expected soon that incorporates these changes.

Alas when @rananna tested my power saving pwm led library - it used a lot of power so i've reworked it a bit - and hopefully now it's actually power saving... :thumb:

 

[Tiger_one]

Flashing bootloader is still giving errors, not solved stlinkv2 loading. I thought I flashed the boot loader on raspberrypi, but on loading zip file (ota firmware) from phone. This:
Screenshot_20210215-152751_nRF Connect.jpg
8 inches snow, internet down.
Cheers

if you are seeing TSDZ2_DFU in bluetooth, from the NORDIC connect app, it would seem to me that you have flashed the bootloader correctly
If so, the two questions are:
1. what file did you use for the OTA update?
2. How did you load it in the Nordic utility?

If you have the correct OTA file, follow the instructions shown here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=va3LJoiosoc&feature=youtu.be
(ignore the reference to leds flashing, we removed that after the video was made)

We have a "HOTSPOT" so back on internet via 5G.
Yes, I can see "TSDZ2_DFU" in both devices. (Mac and Samsung)
1. I believe it was "TSDZ2_wireless_ota_update-v0.6.0.zip"
2. Tried with "NRF Connect" on mac, then samsung "NRF Connect".
Going to your link now to sort.

 

[Tiger_one]

I think on ubuntu I didnt install the "eabi" stuff, internet still down so will not try installing anything from github now.

Screen from MacOS11.2.1 :
macOS11.2.1.jpg

Did you cut the shrinkwrap on your stlink adapter to get at SWDIO/SWCLK? The pins exposed on the 6 pin for flashing the motor controller will not flash the nrf...

No, bought a clone, flashed the stmicronics
Firmware upgrade.
Verfied 3.3v and gnd. Connected swio and clk .
Will post when I find solution, knowing me, most likely simple.

As casainho said - google is your friend here... first result for "invalid command name 'dap' openocd" gives the below:

https://stackoverflow.com/questions...d-name-dap-cant-connect-blue-pill-via-st-link

Please test and feed back - and if that solves your issue - I will update the documentation

BINGO! You are the winner!!! Yes, that worked, full path name in all three, command and both config files, presto.
Now if I could just remember what to do after getting into telnet localhost? LOL.

P.S. 2 dongles flashed and DFU loaded.
Couple of niggles,
1. my phone would not accept a bluetooth file transfer of the DFU.zip file from mac, so had to navigate to the website and download the file from phone. pita
2. neither board has any flashing leds during or after the processes?
I am still using the USB onboard to computer.
Thanks for the support, great work there!

 

[beemac]

Did you cut the shrinkwrap on your stlink adapter to get at SWDIO/SWCLK? The pins exposed on the 6 pin for flashing the motor controller will not flash the nrf...

No, bought a clone, flashed the stmicronics
Firmware upgrade.
Verfied 3.3v and gnd. Connected swio and clk .
Will post when I find solution, knowing me, most likely simple.

As casainho said - google is your friend here... first result for "invalid command name 'dap' openocd" gives the below:

https://stackoverflow.com/questions...d-name-dap-cant-connect-blue-pill-via-st-link

Please test and feed back - and if that solves your issue - I will update the documentation

BINGO! You are the winner!!! Yes, that worked, full path name in all three, command and both config files, presto.
Now if I could just remember what to do after getting into telnet localhost? LOL.

P.S. 2 dongles flashed and DFU loaded.
Couple of niggles,
1. my phone would not accept a bluetooth file transfer of the DFU.zip file from mac, so had to navigate to the website and download the file from phone. pita
2. neither board has any flashing leds during or after the processes?
I am still using the USB onboard to computer.
Thanks for the support, great work there!

Glad you got working - no LEDs is correct for now - next release will enable the LEDs - hopefully won't be long...

 

[beemac]

Maybe a bit off topic, but, in this days I'm testing a 1500w DC Booster on a 13s5p 12.4ah battery if I remember correctly, to stabilize the voltage at 60.5v. I must say that apart from the size and the difficulty of placing the component, it is truly wonderful to always have maximum power even when you reach 20-30% of the battery capacity! I can always exceed 1000w of power when I want and the voltage drops when you are at maximum are part of the past!
Obviously now there are only 5-10 degrees and I have no temperature problems, it remains to be seen when there will be 30 or 40 degrees. However, I am convinced that in principle the higher the voltage, the lower the current, so with the same power the motor will heat less, but for now it is only theory!
Regarding the efficiency of the booster, I can say that you lose from 2% to 5% of autonomy depending on how much battery you use.

Thanks for the hint - I'd not considered such a thing... now have ordered two from banggood - a 1200w and 1500w version...

 

[casainho]

An user posted this on a another thread by mistake:

[urlhttps://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=103318&p=1619892#p1619797]quote=lasercat post_id=1619797 time=1613943839 user_id=73589[/url]

Hello everyone!

I'm fascinated with this project, but from the electronics side it can be improved even more!
So I asked a friend of mine to design a carrier board for a nrf which incorporates step-down converter and some other important parts. In a result we got a very slim board (15mm x 55mm):

We plan to order this board but a shipping price is a little too high and some parts are sold in a volume of 100 only. So we thought, that maybe somebody also would like such a board?

Cheers
/quote

 

[Tiger_one]

Glad you got working - no LEDs is correct for now - next release will enable the LEDs - hopefully won't be long...

I thought that the blue light would be flashing for DFU upload. I did have the blinking red before the boot loader flash, but nothing after.

 

[casainho]

I am being learning FreeCAD to be able to design the remote - I am using as reference the design done by stancecoke.

The idea of this design is to place the LED visible on top of the remote, so the NRF52 board is out on the top. I think there are 2 main issues with this design:
1. there is no space for brake levers, the remotes usually are placed on top of the brake levers parts that are fixed on the handle bar
2. I did it small and I am afraid there is little space for cables, which will make hard to assembly

Anyway I will 3D print and test before make a new design ready to use with brake levers.

The source files for FreeCAD 0.19 are here: https://github.com/OpenSourceEBike/TSDZ2_wireless/tree/e3c9c72ddc11ef1d86623f686495bb286f9ab0e2/EBike_wireless_remote/3d_design

 

[casainho]

And after printing:

 

[rananna]

And after printing:

Very nice! How do you make the electrical connection to the button battery?
I can see that it is very thin.
In addition to brakes wire access, will there be enough room to tuck all the wires under the buttons once you solder the board?
Can there be a removable access port on the bottom to allow for easier replacement of the battery?

 

[lasercat]

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=103318&p=1619892#p1619797

Hello everyone!

I'm fascinated with this project, but from the electronics side it can be improved even more!
So I asked a friend of mine to design a carrier board for a nrf which incorporates step-down converter and some other important parts. In a result we got a very slim board (15mm x 55mm):

We plan to order this board but a shipping price is a little too high and some parts are sold in a volume of 100 only. So we thought, that maybe somebody also would like such a board?

Cheers

Thanks for a repost

 

[beemac]

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=103318&p=1619892#p1619797

Hello everyone!

I'm fascinated with this project, but from the electronics side it can be improved even more!
So I asked a friend of mine to design a carrier board for a nrf which incorporates step-down converter and some other important parts. In a result we got a very slim board (15mm x 55mm):

We plan to order this board but a shipping price is a little too high and some parts are sold in a volume of 100 only. So we thought, that maybe somebody also would like such a board?

Cheers

Thanks for a repost

Hi @lasercat - looks good! I had a similar idea and designed a board in EasyCAD but never tested it - was planning to use PCBWay to get samples built -have you checked to see if they will do smaller quantities? I also started to copy the regulator from mspiders ESP32 project but got distracted with coding and didn't get it routed.

Couple of thoughts-

1. Why the connector for the motor cable connections? Means more parts and bits to solder - would through-holes for wires be easier and cheaper?
2. From experience soldering sub-boards onto pads is quite hit and miss - the pads for the nrf module. Mounting and soldering to pins would be easier and more secure - but at a slight cost increase - and perhaps height.

Here's my attempt - isn't routed and still uses the old tiny mosfet - and expects an external 5v regulator - but you can see what I mean about pins for mounting the nrf.

 

[beemac]

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=103318&p=1619892#p1619797

Hello everyone!

I'm fascinated with this project, but from the electronics side it can be improved even more!
So I asked a friend of mine to design a carrier board for a nrf which incorporates step-down converter and some other important parts. In a result we got a very slim board (15mm x 55mm):

We plan to order this board but a shipping price is a little too high and some parts are sold in a volume of 100 only. So we thought, that maybe somebody also would like such a board?

Cheers

Thanks for a repost

Hi @lasercat - looks good! I had a similar idea and designed a board in EasyCAD but never tested it - was planning to use PCBWay to get samples built -have you checked to see if they will do smaller quantities? I also started to copy the regulator from mspiders ESP32 project but got distracted with coding and didn't get it routed.

Couple of thoughts-

1. Why the connector for the motor cable connections? Means more parts and bits to solder - would through-holes for wires be easier and cheaper?
2. From experience soldering sub-boards onto pads is quite hit and miss - the pads for the nrf module. Mounting and soldering to pins would be easier and more secure - but at a slight cost increase - and perhaps height.

Here's my attempt - isn't routed and still uses the old tiny mosfet - and expects an external 5v regulator - but you can see what I mean about pins for mounting the nrf.

Also if you put the nrf the other way around - then you can saw off the USB connector to make the board even shorter! I've not done that yet - but I believe @casainho has.