Elinx said:1. --This motor has a hardware limited current of 18A (750Wmax. full batterie), but a lower current is better for less heat.7lucky7 said:...
I've got the 250w 36v motor version but have a few little questions..........
You have setup 16A max. current, with lowest batterie Voltage of 30V, 30x16= 480W max.
250W is the nominal power for continuous use, but that is only a factory controller-setting with stock FW.
The motor is exactly the same as the 36V-350W tsdz2. Meaning 12A continous current is possible, but 10A is advisable.
So if you setup max. power to 480W, you will have the same power with full batterie with 42V (current 11,5A)
In that case you have always 480W max. with discharging of the batterie (42V>>30V)
Normally you don't need the max. power or only some short time.
2. -- For powerassist keep in first place the default settings. They are tested and evaluated.
This are percentages of your own power. So 300 means 300% more power, but never more as the max power you have setup with 1.
Only if you can give less power yourself then experiment with a higher setting or if you find the assist too much, lower these values.
It also depends of the use of the bike (road, mtb or cargo).
3. -- You can't easy compare the OSF assist modes with factory settings, because the powercurve in every mode is another one.
The best what you can do is setup first the basic settings and try the bike first.
If you are satisfied your done, otherwise go experimenting with other settings.
Flashing is easy if you have setup your ST-link
As I said before. The character of the levels is of different orde than stock FW.7lucky7 said:.....
Thanks so much for the detailed reply. Regarding point 1 what would be your recommended settings. Keeping 16a and upping max power to 480w??? (I did notice the peak power was less than factory setting with the 250w setting cycling this morning, though I usually ride on eco so only noticed with it turned up to turbo on a hill or when first pulling away).......
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Elinx said:As I said before. The character of the levels is of different orde than stock FW.7lucky7 said:.....
Thanks so much for the detailed reply. Regarding point 1 what would be your recommended settings. Keeping 16a and upping max power to 480w??? (I did notice the peak power was less than factory setting with the 250w setting cycling this morning, though I usually ride on eco so only noticed with it turned up to turbo on a hill or when first pulling away).......
....
The peak power climbs up slower for saving the blue gear.
I can imagine that you want to compare the different levels, but better is to find out which level your like the best.
Don't say "I usually ride eco" but try out all levels. After you feel the character of each level you can play with the values in the configurator. (On stock FW I always was cycling on level 3 and with OSF level 2 >> max.450W15A flat (dutch) road use max. 30kph).
It is no problem to go with a higher max. power level (say 630W 17A). Only minor point is that you will have that level only with a higher battery Voltage, so with a low battery you can't get that powerlevel anymore.
A second minor point could be the temperature of the motor. You can keep this controlled with a temperaturesensor (throttle is not possible anymore) and insert heat conductive siliconpads
I never use it (cylcle only on roads), but it is a more dynamic mode with a wider range. This what the wiki writes about emtb.HrKlev said:... what exactly EMTB mode is. .....
...maximum recomended values for motor acceleration somewhere close to the stock FW motor acceleration? .....
mbrusa said:Hi everyone
I decided to release the new version, I would have liked to try it a little more, okay, from Monday I can do it.
However, two months locked at home have served to fix many small details of the firmware (changelog.txt) and to complete the Java Parameter Configurator of Stancecoke that I thank.
I posted the new version on GitHub, I hope it all works.
https://github.com/emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1
Elinx said:I never use it (cylcle only on roads), but it is a more dynamic mode with a wider range. This what the wiki writes about emtb.HrKlev said:... what exactly EMTB mode is. .....
...maximum recomended values for motor acceleration somewhere close to the stock FW motor acceleration? .....
Emtb "mode automatically adjusts motor torque depending on the torque applied on the pedals. More pedal torque equals a greater percentage of motor torque. Meaning that you can get everything from normal assistance all the way to absolute maximum power without changing assist levels."
It is possible to change the ramp value for faster acceleration. You found the adviced values already in the configuration manual.
If you want about the same as stock level you must try out different values.
But again OSF does work on a different way as stock FW so I'm not sure you got the same feeling.
You have different needs that require different settings.GrpB said:I would like to try this newer version with more advanced torque sensor related settings, as well as the torque sensor calibration which I have not done, but before I start can someone advise settings/parameters to pay particular attention to that would get me close to my desired goal?
For example, I do not feel comfortable AT ALL trying to wheelie the bike using the motor torque to assist getting the wheel up. There is a delay between my pedal input and motor output, then the motor output feels too strong relative to my light pedal effort or too weak relative to a heavy pedal effort, then the motor seems to continue it's output for a relatively long time after I stop the pedal effort, even though I've set PWM Duty Cycle Ramp DW so low.
Maybe I am asking too much for this system but I would like to get it as close as possible within the hardware and control limitiations to what I want. I appreciate any advice or suggestion, thank you.
w0utje said:With the custom firmware's its possible to use a 52v battery with a 48v motor? My battery's bms died, new one from ali's onroute but its going to take a while. Guy here in the same village sells a new unipack 52v-14Ah hailong case battery, thinking of picking that one up and using it till the other bms is back.
Got a streetbike and mtb fitted with a tsdz2 so 2 battery's is quitte handy to have.
w0utje said:I read it's easier to damage the motor and controller with the 52v, if that's the case I'm not going to try it. I don't have temperature sensor installed.
I think you mean the configuration manual for the Java configurator.jeff.page.rides said:TSDZ2 Parameter Configurator 2.0 OSF mb.20beta1.B
Where do I find this .....
Elinx said:I think you mean the configuration manual for the Java configurator.jeff.page.rides said:TSDZ2 Parameter Configurator 2.0 OSF mb.20beta1.B
Where do I find this .....
You find the manuals on mbrusa's github repo, together with the OSF and the configurator.
There are three manuals, in two languages (EN-IT), for mb.20beta1.B
1. Configuration manual
2. Display Operation manual
3. Additional Operation manual
For understanding the different parameters of the Java configurator, you need the configuration manual.
If you setup all the tabs of the configurator and enter "compile and flash", there will be saved an xxx.ini file with your preffered settings inside the directory "experimental settings" If you want you can rename this ini file for better recognizability.