TSDZ2 OSF for all displays, VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18, LCD3, 860C-850C-SW102.

[tr8]

For those who want to try it here is the modified v20.1C.3-NEW version.
https://github.com/emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1/archive/refs/heads/master.zip

I have flashed this version and can confirm that the bug I reported (rear wheel spins permanently when the bike is on the two legged stand) is fixed. Thank you mbrusa!
I only did a very short test ride afterwards, but everything seems to work fine.

In the configurator "motor fast stop" is still the default. This should be replaced with a reasonable decceleration value.
Also, the deccelaration value could be grayed out when "motor fast stop" is selected. But that' s just cosmetic.

 

[mbrusa]

... the virtual throttle? Mbrusa's .pdf doesn't really say how it works... ...

Only Casainho's build has a virtual throttle, so that is the reason you don't find this in the manual of mbrusa.
But "cruise mode" is at level 3-e04 and the "assist with error" at level 4-e04, so a lot of pushes must be done :wink:

I don't understand this urge to use the accelerator or cruise.
It is called a bicycle because you have to pedal. :lol:
The only justification for the use of the accelerator, in an emergency due to the breakage of the free wheel of the crank.
With 860C the virtual accelerator is present as in the casainho version, to know how to use it just read the manual.

With stock display for my choice, the cruise mode is like the cadence mode, the difference is that with the levels you choose the speed to be reached instead of the power to be delivered.
I consider cadence and cruise only emergency modes in case of problems with the sense of torque.
In case of breakage of the crankset freewheel, you can use the cruise mode with special settings.
It is not documented in the manual because it is not legal in the EU.
How to do it everyone must find out for themselves.
...
Okay, today I make an exception:
Brake sensor = enabled
Speed ​​cruise enabled = 0
Cruise without pedaling = enabled
Street mode = disabled (offroad) OR Cruise on street mode = enabled
Assist mode = cruise
Walk Assist button to go.

And in the event of a sensor failure:
Assist with error = enabled

Good rides to all.

 

[raylo32]

I have no urge to use throttle or cruise at all. I am mostly a pedal bike guy and just finished a good hilly 35 miles on the TSDZ2 bike and didn't use cruise once... and I don't even have a throttle. But it's nice to have a fallback if the torque sensor fails... as they have been known to do... and not have to try to pedal a 50 pound bike up a 10+% grade to get home. We appreciate all your work but we (or at least I) will never be thoroughly up on the manual when a problem occurs. Nothing much to have to remember to enable cruise.

... the virtual throttle? Mbrusa's .pdf doesn't really say how it works... ...

Only Casainho's build has a virtual throttle, so that is the reason you don't find this in the manual of mbrusa.
But "cruise mode" is at level 3-e04 and the "assist with error" at level 4-e04, so a lot of pushes must be done :wink:

I don't understand this urge to use the accelerator or cruise.
It is called a bicycle because you have to pedal. :lol:
The only justification for the use of the accelerator, in an emergency due to the breakage of the free wheel of the crank.
With 860C the virtual accelerator is present as in the casainho version, to know how to use it just read the manual.

With stock display for my choice, the cruise mode is like the cadence mode, the difference is that with the levels you choose the speed to be reached instead of the power to be delivered.
I consider cadence and cruise only emergency modes in case of problems with the sense of torque.
In case of breakage of the crankset freewheel, you can use the cruise mode with special settings.
It is not documented in the manual because it is not legal in the EU.
How to do it everyone must find out for themselves.
...
Okay, today I make an exception:
Brake sensor = enabled
Speed ​​cruise enabled = 0
Cruise without pedaling = enabled
Street mode = disabled (offroad) OR Cruise on street mode = enabled
Assist mode = cruise
Walk Assist button to go.

And in the event of a sensor failure:
Assist with error = enabled

Good rides to all.

 

[Elinx]

....We appreciate all your work but we (or at least I) will never be thoroughly up on the manual when a problem occurs. Nothing much to have to remember to enable cruise....

Don't use "we" as you mean "I", because you really can't know how others will handle the manual.
Once I got used to operating the display, after some practice with the help of the displaymanual, working with the display is fairly easy.
For remembering in case of a problem, I only have the "E0x list" in my bikebag, but for the few options I used most, this list isn't neccesary.

 

[raylo32]

The 860C display is dead easy to operate and make changes. The only issue is understanding exactly what all the options do and how the motor will respond under many different circumstances to include a fault in a torque sensor or other key component. I wouldn't care but unlike a pedal bike this sort of stuff could really catch you out. And not so much for me... but I want to put one on my GF's bike so she will enjoy riding more... but if hers failed on a ride that would be a whole 'nother level of trouble for me. =:O

And I did say "I". See the parens.

....We appreciate all your work but we (or at least I) will never be thoroughly up on the manual when a problem occurs. Nothing much to have to remember to enable cruise....

Don't use "we" as you mean "I", because you really can't know how others will handle the manual.
Once I got used to operating the display, after some practice with the help of the displaymanual, working with the display is fairly easy.
For remembering in case of a problem, I only have the "E0x list" in my bikebag, but for the few options I used most, this list isn't neccesary.

 

[Elinx]

The 860C display is dead easy to operate and make changes. The only issue is understanding exactly what all the options do ...

I think this is the same with stock display too. But maybe the learning curve is a bit more.

... I did say "I". See the parens....

Yes, I had seen this, but you started with "we", that is why I responded.

 

[gfmoore]

The reason I want the throttle is because, well I liked it. But perhaps a better reason is that being very unfit at 61 after 35 years of being sedentary (I did actually once cycle across Europe from Blackpool to Athens on an off the shelf Raleigh Tourer!) as I try to improve my fitness by going up the hills, rather than have to stop or have a heart attack (and sometimes that seems likely!) I could press the throttle and get some instant relief. Also from a safety point of view as I turn right (UK) at a junction I found (on the one ride where I had the throttle) it was brilliant to get me across the junction at speed before I got side swiped by impatient drivers - you have to remember that in the UK there are so many cars in a little island and mostly they are mad!

 

[raylo32]

Question for Mbrusa regarding battery State of Charge... I understand how it is set up... for a 52V battery it resets to 100% when I pop on a freshly charged battery whose voltage is above 58.4v IIRC. Then SOC counts down based on subtracting the usage from the full battery capacity watt hours set in the menu. That works pretty well. But it doesn't work when you do a soft charge like to 80, 85, or 90%. My question is why or can't you program it to set the initial SOC % based on the battery voltage when it it installed and powered up? Say I put my 85% charged battery that comes off the charger at 56.6v... the math would work like this using 40V as fully discharged:

100% charge range= 58.8v
Dead empty= 40v

So the range of SOC is 58.8-40=18.8v. Then SOC would be a direct ratio of the voltage within that range. For instance my 85% battery is (58.8-40) * 0.85 + 40= 56.6

IOW the firmware could take the 56.6 input voltage and solve for SOC which in this case is 85% and use that as the basis for that ride.

Of course this would have to be ratioed for the various voltage of batteries that the FW supports.

Anyway, just curious...

 

[mbrusa]

It is an already foreseen feature.
I remember you have an 860C display.
If you go into the SOC configuration menu, there is the item "Manual reset", just set "yes" when putting on an incompletely charged battery.

The calculation is made between the voltages "Reset at voltage" and "Low cut-off".
It is not linear, it is based on the Panasonic NCR18650GA cell discharge curve, with other cell types there may be a difference.

 

[raylo32]

Excellent... thanks again. And yeah, I figured it was probably more complicated then a simple linear function, but also probably close enough... as long as the end points are correct.

It is an already foreseen feature.
I remember you have an 860C display.
If you go into the SOC configuration menu, there is the item "Manual reset", just set "yes" when putting on an incompletely charged battery.

The calculation is made between the voltages "Reset at voltage" and "Low cut-off".
It is not linear, it is based on the Panasonic NCR18650GA cell discharge curve, with other cell types there may be a difference.

 

[Lii]

I've been driving the v20.1c.3 in the original version for about 500km without any problems. all failures I had read about were with lcd5 and while driving. Was your failure in the state with xh18? Now I'm unsure whether I should continue with the v20.1c.3, although I think everything is more perfect. Is the risk of failure very high? If you die with your modification, only the risk of failure has been reduced, I would like to install it, can you make it available to me?

It may be that the first version v20.1C.3 for stock displays works without problems but it is better not to risk it.
For those who want to try it here is the modified v20.1C.3-NEW version.
https://github.com/emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1/archive/refs/heads/master.zip
Before releasing it officially, I expect some positive feedback.

I tried the c3_NEW version. It has become less powerful compared to the first version. With the same settings, the power is less. I deleted it and returned to C1.

 

[mbrusa]

I tried the c3_NEW version. It has become less powerful compared to the first version. With the same settings, the power is less. I deleted it and returned to C1.

Strange, it should be the other way around.
In the first version v20.1C.3 for stock display, the frequency is 19Khz and svm table for 19Khz (like mspider v12).
In versions v20.1C.3 for 860C and LCD3, the frequency is 19Khz and svm table for 18Khz (like mspider v13), this to have a greater reactivity of the motor, also verified by other users.
Now with v20.1C.3-NEW I have done the same.
In v20.1C.1, the frequency / svm table combination is the same as in the first v20.1C.3.
Can you post the .ini file with your settings?

 

[gfmoore]

Had an interesting ride today on a 1 mile (1.5 km) circuit that had a nice climb starting 6-10% and then 5% or so and then back round and down.

I tried all the assist modes to try and get some sense of what they feel like. I tried to use a low gear and max assist level 240.

Power mode - I like this, feel the motor as I go to assist level and it feels very natural and got me up the hill
Torque mode - Don't get it. I got up the hill, but it felt very odd.
Cadence mode - Couldn't get up the hill really, very difficult. I think I wasn't using a high enough cadence?
eMTB - loved it. Great assist from the off and then seemed to keep providing power. I especially liked the power at setting off and is what I wanted from the throttle. So now if the throttle can be made to do this and from assist level 0
Hybrid - felt mostly same as power, but not quite. Can't really explain it.

eMTB and Power seem to be the ones that suit me.

I have to say I only did the loop once for each mode so my feelings are very subjective. I probably need to do a few laps on each mode to get a better feeling.

Question: How do I know if I am in Street mode or not? I couldn't see any indication on display. I think I start off not in street mode (Street mode>Enable at startup = no) , but as I was trying to set it I wasn't sure whether I was or not?

Question: Motor max power mode - what is the purpose of this? I saw it show up? Is it going to be level 254 for the assist level (which I was already using for my tests (well 250)?

Anyhow, all good fun.

EDIT: Should have stated I am using 850c display

 

[gfmoore]

I have asked this before, but was wondering what is the compiler and tool chain for the motor source software. As far as I can work out I need to use SDCC? for the STM microcontroller. Is this correct? There are quite a few links to development, but was wondering (mbrusa perhaps) what environment is being used?

 

[Elinx]

I have asked this before, but was wondering what is the compiler and tool chain for the motor source software..............There are quite a few links to development.........

Is this what you are looking for?
Or the links you just refer to.

 

[gfmoore]

Is this what you are looking for?
Or the links you just refer to.

It is what I was looking for, many thanks :thumb:

 

[tr8]

I tried the c3_NEW version. It has become less powerful compared to the first version. With the same settings, the power is less. I deleted it and returned to C1.

I cannot confirm this.We have now used version "v20.1C.3-NEW" on each of the two bikes for about 50 km and it did not seem weaker compared to "v20.1C".
I did not test "v20.1C.3" and "v20.1C.1 safety updates" as they seemed buggy right after installation.
With which version did you compare the "v20.1C.3-NEW?
Are you sure you used the same ini files?

 

[Elinx]

....
I did not test "v20.1C.3" and "v20.1C.1 safety updates" as they seemed buggy right after installation....

imho are v0.20.1C and v.0.20.1C.3 the buggy builds and the last released "v20.1C.1 safety updates" and "v20.1C.3-NEW" the repaired versions of these two. I haven't read much feedback of them.

 

[Anikea]

I tried the c3_NEW version. It has become less powerful compared to the first version. With the same settings, the power is less. I deleted it and returned to C1.

I cannot confirm this.We have now used version "v20.1C.3-NEW" on each of the two bikes for about 50 km and it did not seem weaker compared to "v20.1C".
I did not test "v20.1C.3" and "v20.1C.1 safety updates" as they seemed buggy right after installation.
With which version did you compare the "v20.1C.3-NEW?
Are you sure you used the same ini files?

I have now driven the v20.1c-3.new about 100km. I haven't had any problems so far, but I also have the feeling that it is a bit weaker compared to the 1c-3 with the same settings. With the same driving style, I can get about 10-20% further with one battery.

 

[Lii]

Hello everyone! I also installed this version on my bike. And now I'm trying to adjust a non-linear increase in power according to the torque sensor. I want the power to increase not linearly, without sudden jumps. But so far I have not succeeded. I have calibrated the torque sensor: I have set the offset (220) and the maximum value (280). But even after calibrating the sensor, the power rises too sharply and therefore the maximum assistance level has to be reduced. I have a VLCD6 display. Is there a way to make the torque sensor response non-linear? I want less assistance with less pedal pressure, more support with hard pedal pressure. How do I tune non-linearity?

What mode are you using?

 

[Supra]

I ride mtb only, single track and a lot of downhill, no commuting at all. I bought a tsdz2 motor about 3 years ago and its still on one of my mtb bikes. Fantastic motor , stock motor and vlcd5 display. Lots of power, only ever use level 2 of 4, nice control, good acceleration.
Since then ive bought 3 other motors and they all have a lot less power , i have to use level 4 all the time.
I guess Tongsheng changed the firmware. Anyone got any info on this?
I installed casainho v1.0 and it has plenty of power, but i couldnt get rid of the bad lag when accelerating, totally unsuitable for mtb.
Next i installed emmebrusa's osf for 860c and it has nice control, but not enough power. Ive tried to set it up following manual, but just cant get the power required.
Ideally I'd read the program off the powerful original tsdz and transfer it over to another motor, but it doesnt work at all on the reprogrammed motor, I transferred memory, data files but no go. Read says ok, but motor not responding.
Any comments welcomed?
Its been said that emmebrusa v1 is more powerful than v3, where can i find v1?
If i could get rid of the lag on casainho v1.0 I'd be happy.

 

[gfmoore]

Since then ive bought 3 other motors and they all have a lot less power , i have to use level 4 all the time.

Any comments welcomed?

I don't know if this is relevant but the thought occurs to me that in your newer motors (48Volt?) that they may be using the new controller that Casainho et al have not yet cracked and probably won't till the Autumn/Winter as he (they) enjoy summer and Casainho's new baby

The relevant thread is https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=111287

 

[Elinx]

... tsdz2 motor about 3 years ago and its still on one of my mtb bikes. Fantastic motor ,....then ive bought 3 other motors and they all have a lot less power ,.....
....

The best part of the tsdz2 is also the weakest part, the torque sensor.
There are a lot of differences with the sensitivity range of it.
So maybe who knows and is it the other way around, you where lucky with your first motor and the other 3 have a more normal behaviour with stock firmware.

With OSF you can do a software calibration of the torque sensor, so all motors behave more or less the same under same pedal conditions.
Even if you have a very low sensitive torquesensor it is also possible to do a hardware calibration, but that is a lot more work, because it is neccesary to dissamble the motor.

So after installing OSF, the first thing is measure the torque range and set it up into the configuration.
imho there is not much of a difference between the versions of OSF from just one developer.
If there are small differences, it is possible to adjust these to your wishes.
For mbrusa there are are 3 builds dependent of the used display.
However these mbrusa builds are based on the same source of mspider65, it could be that there is some difference, because the settings are made in another environment ... java configurator or display.
For all builds you need to find your ideal settings by trial and error.

 

[Supra]

Ive calibrated the torque sensor 200-270.
Yes i realize that a lot of trial and error is required, but the difference in power levels, even between casainho and emmbrusa osf is drastic, i cant believe its not an issue for other mtb riders.

 

[Elinx]

Ive calibrated the torque sensor 200-270.
...

A calibration of 70adc means the torque sensor isn't very sensitive.
Default osf has a range of 160adc, between zero and max load. imho most sensors measuring above 100adc
Have you tried cruise mode or throttle, to ignore the torque sensor and can feel the power of the tsdz2 itself?