Turnigy watt meter for $25

I am very curious to read impressions about that new "watt's up" meter copy.

I tested many RC wattmeter like watt'sup meter, astroflight meter, cycle analyst, etc and the watt's up was always showing accurate voltage and current reading when compared to a Fluke reference. I now wonder if the choice of the ADC, regulator , op and shunt quality is good and can hold the same precision than the REAL Watt's up meter.

Please can someone post comparaison results here?.. for 24$ I wanna see if it really worth

Doc
 
Oh.. I see that thing is already BO.. at Hobbyking:?

Doc
 
SpeedEBikes said:
Amberwolf, just get the watt meter and start using it. Fully charge up your batteries and go for a ride. Every few minutes stop and write down how many amp hours you've used and what your voltage is. Run it down to near your cutoff voltage. Then using the data you've collected, work it backwards such that you have a figure for how many amp hours remaining at each voltage point. If you use many different batteries and your memory is fading then print the data up and tape it to your batteries. Then you'll have a pretty good guide for how much capacity you have at any voltage. If you only use a single set of batteries you won't need to be that thorough. Just ride around paying attention to the meter. Fairly quickly you'll be able to glance at the voltage and know from past experience how you are doing for energy remaining. For battery types with flat portions in the discharge curve, such as NIMH and LiFe the amp hour meter is more needed, but for sla and lipo/li-ion you can get by fine with just a volt meter.

I guess you didn't really read what I posted, since what I want to do is AVOID doing all of that. ;) (I already can do that right now, just by watching my analog panel ammeter and my speed, and odometer, and guesstimate how far I can still go)

Of course I COULD do it that way, but why should I have to? Just because a technology doesn't yet work the way I want it to doesn't mean I have to live with it's limitations. :p

Heck, that's why we have our e-bikes, instead of just pedalling! Or why we haveHub motors in our wheels, or RC motors with great reduction drives on bikes instead of just the plain old friction drives over the rear wheel.

Nothing ever works the way *everyone* wants it to--there are always a few unsatisified people, and they are the ones that generally make the progress to the next step that everyone else then wants to have once they have seen it work. 8)
 
amberwolf said:
I guess you didn't really read what I posted, since what I want to do is AVOID doing all of that. ;) (I already can do that right now, just by watching my analog panel ammeter and my speed, and odometer, and guesstimate how far I can still go)

Of course I COULD do it that way, but why should I have to? Just because a technology doesn't yet work the way I want it to doesn't mean I have to live with it's limitations. :p

Heck, that's why we have our e-bikes, instead of just pedalling! Or why we haveHub motors in our wheels, or RC motors with great reduction drives on bikes instead of just the plain old friction drives over the rear wheel.

Nothing ever works the way *everyone* wants it to--there are always a few unsatisified people, and they are the ones that generally make the progress to the next step that everyone else then wants to have once they have seen it work. 8)

Sorry if I came away with the wrong impression.

If you succeed in your mission you'll have a big thumbs up from me. But I think to do it right will be more difficult than you expect. There are quite a few variables to account for. It's not at simple as keeping track of a fixed number of watt hours in and out with fixed multipliers. Both charging and discharge efficiency vary with the internal resistance of each cell. Cell IR increases slowly over time as the cell degrades. It also fluctuates with temperature and current. In addition there is the internal self discharge of a cell. That is charge that disappears with time. The rate that happens can vary with the condition of the cell, with temperature and also with the state of charge. I'm sure there are other factors too. And all of those factors will work quite differently for each battery chemistry. Even for cells of the same chemistry there will be differences based on how each cell was constructed.

Without doing any engineering, you can quite easily test this yourself. Just reverse your wattsUp or other meter when you charge. Instead of attaching the battery as the source, the charger is the source and the battery is the load. Track and manually record both the power in and out. Do it for a while and I expect you'll see quite a bit of variability over time with the ratios between what went in and what went out. I know you don't want to do this manually, you want it automatic. But if you do it manually and see that it doesn't work, you'll have saved yourself the trouble of trying to automate it.

Todd Allen
 
SpeedEBikes said:
Sorry if I came away with the wrong impression.

If you succeed in your mission you'll have a big thumbs up from me. But I think to do it right will be more difficult than you expect.
Oh, I know quite well how difficult it would be to do perfectly, and unless I can get someone to write the code for an MCU to process the data, I won't be able to actually do it the full way.

I also appreciate very much the thoughts you've provided here, as they have provoked more thoughts in the back of my mind, which as they percolate up I'll post about, perhaps in a thread dedicated to the idea of this meter concept I'd like to help create (because I know I cannot do it all myself).

Also, I apologize if I came off the wrong way; I'm just very used to lots of TL,DR responses to my detailed posts. I know that on most forums I visit, many people never even read what I post at all, if it's more than one line. When they do, often it's obvious from their replies that they didn't read it all, or didn't pay attention to the details (which I wouldn't put in if they weren't important, to me at least). So I sometimes get a little snappy when I see a response that appears to disregard the point of what I was saying, or the basic reason for it. :)

There are quite a few variables to account for. It's not at simple as keeping track of a fixed number of watt hours in and out with fixed multipliers.
I know. But it is a start, and better than what I (we) have at the moment. :)


Both charging and discharge efficiency vary with the internal resistance of each cell. Cell IR increases slowly over time as the cell degrades. It also fluctuates with temperature and current. In addition there is the internal self discharge of a cell. That is charge that disappears with time. The rate that happens can vary with the condition of the cell, with temperature and also with the state of charge. I'm sure there are other factors too.
And of course all of these things inter-relate with each other, causing even more variability. :( Yeah, it's likely not going to be much fun figuring out how to do this the complete way.

And all of those factors will work quite differently for each battery chemistry. Even for cells of the same chemistry there will be differences based on how each cell was constructed.


Without doing any engineering, you can quite easily test this yourself. Just reverse your wattsUp or other meter when you charge. Instead of attaching the battery as the source, the charger is the source and the battery is the load. Track and manually record both the power in and out. Do it for a while and I expect you'll see quite a bit of variability over time with the ratios between what went in and what went out. I know you don't want to do this manually, you want it automatic. But if you do it manually and see that it doesn't work, you'll have saved yourself the trouble of trying to automate it.
The basic version of the offset split shunt will work well enough as an automated process for the little work I have to do to create it. The full version with all the variables accounted for will be much much harder, but that is definitely not in the plans for any near-future stuff.

Right now I don't even *have* a CA, WU, or even Turnigy meter (TM?), and no prospects of getting one soon as my financial situation seems to get worse every other week. With a little luck and a lot of hard work, I'll turn that around sooner or later, but it's been getting worse for years, so it could keep going for some time to come. :(
 
Doctorbass said:
I tested many RC wattmeter like watt'sup meter, astroflight meter, cycle analyst, etc and the watt's up was always showing accurate voltage and current reading when compared to a Fluke reference. I now wonder if the choice of the ADC, regulator , op and shunt quality is good and can hold the same precision than the REAL Watt's up meter.

When I was designing my original power meter (the one that became known as the "Anal Cyclist" owing to its completely accidental similarity to a Cycle Analyst in appearance), I was using the WattsUp as a my benchmark. I concur that it does an amazing job of giving me readings that are damn close to that of my Fluke MM. If you've ever opened up a WattsUp and had a really good look at it, you'll be stunned at how little is in there. No external ADC. No external op amps. And still only a 1uOhm surface mount shunt. EVERYTHING is handled inside the AVRTiny, which has only a 10bit ADC! I actually e-mailed the WattsUp's creators to ask WTF?, and while they were kind enough to answer some of my questions, they wouldn't divulge exactly how their code works. I *know* it uses oversampling/decimation (as well as simple hardware dithering) to increase the apparent resolution of the ADC, but that's it. I do have the device's schematic, though.

As the days get shorter and the "indoor" time increases, I'll be revisiting all of the projects I left hanging back in the spring and see if I can add any value, here.

What tasks me to want to do this is that between the WattsUP, Cycle Analyst, and Anal Cyclist, the accuracy of the respective devices is best in the order I just listed them. Actually, the Anal Cyclist uses high-side current monitoring, unlike the WattsUp and Cycle Analyst, which put the shunt in the ground path. At very low currents (less than .5Amp) the Anal Cyclist comes in fifth in this three horse race, owing to lack of resolution in that range. I haven't really been motivated to spend a lot more time on it, but Justin gave me some fuel and a poke many months ago that I can't ignore, so I'm going to do a version 2 - this time incorporating ideas from all three devices. In reality, I think the Anal Cyclist's best feature is the soft power-up of the whole bike from a single low-current button on the thumb throttle. The trusty meter I use to manage my energy consumption is still the Cycle Analyst at this point.
 
Anal cyclist - cute :) I was building a CyCLONE analyst (which was a clone of the cycle analyst and being used on a cyclone motor setup) - but for the price ~ thats pretty darned cheap - you couldn't buy a nice LCD and case for that!
 
The anal cyclist - that conjures images of a lycra riding a bike with no seat :lol:

For $25 I dont think you'll beat this new meter for value (assuming it isnt crap) but for you guys intent on making stuff, I reckon what'd be a good seller for noobs is a basic amp hour meter that has a simple visual display - either with a number of LEDs or better still a small LCD display like this:

yhst-24812145388569_2073_165572


You would program with with the ah rating of your battery and that way it is chemistry independant, unlike simple gauges that work off voltage. Better still you can allow for batteries that lose capacity as they get older - so your 10ah battery that is now only returning 9ah is entered as 9ah and your gauge will be accurate.
 
Hyena said:
yhst-24812145388569_2073_165572


You would program with with the ah rating of your battery and that way it is chemistry independant, unlike simple gauges that work off voltage. Better still you can allow for batteries that lose capacity as they get older - so your 10ah battery that is now only returning 9ah is entered as 9ah and your gauge will be accurate.

I like that idea. I always wondered why Justin is not including that feature on the Cycle analyst. maybe it's the Uc platform that is already fully loaded..


But for sure.. that bargraph of the SOC is certainly something missing that would be very usefull for us!

Maybe it could calculate the SOC with many input parameters.. not only counting th Ah.. I mean having a user programmable multipoint voltage matrix that could be added to the SOC calculation bu comparing with pre programmed (Voltage step per given resting Ah)...

Or the best could be an intelligent method that just learn the battery curve and that could occasionally update that curve according to the lastest measured value while using the battery.

I know that precisely measuring the SOC of a LiFePO4 battery is very difficult because of the lower voltage dynamic ( 3.6 to 2.5v =1.1V dynamic range total) but the usable part of 80% soc is on the 3.4 to 3V range= 0.4V range to determine the SOC... instead of the conventional Lipo or LiMn that have double voltage dynamic for the same 80%soc...

Laptop battery use many different parameters like cycle life count, SOC voltage, Wh or Ah count, Age of the battery.. all computed in a little IC to acheive of giving us a % for the soc.

But.. I still think that all the experience we all have on the E-S, We are capable of building something like that for our ebike need!

Doc
 
>Or the best could be an intelligent method that just learn the battery curve and that could occasionally update that curve according to the lastest measured value while using the battery.

A microcontroller with some built in non-volatile memory is probably the way to go. Ideally it would be able to track voltage, current, temperature and time. I imagine that by sampling and storing data points of ones typical useage in charging and discharging that fairly quickly it would be possible to give an SOC figure and remaining amp hours with a fair amount of accuracy. But if you were going to build an instrument of this much complexity it probably ought to be integrated into the BMS as all of this data could make for more accurate termination cutoffs while under load too. And ideally, one could then set a very conservative termination cutoff but then have the equivalent of a snooze alarm button to let one push past it when desperate to go for a bit longer...
 
Hyena said:
The anal cyclist - that conjures images of a lycra riding a bike with no seat :lol:

For $25 I dont think you'll beat this new meter for value (assuming it isnt crap) but for you guys intent on making stuff, I reckon what'd be a good seller for noobs is a basic amp hour meter that has a simple visual display - either with a number of LEDs or better still a small LCD display like this:

yhst-24812145388569_2073_165572


You would program with with the ah rating of your battery and that way it is chemistry independant, unlike simple gauges that work off voltage. Better still you can allow for batteries that lose capacity as they get older - so your 10ah battery that is now only returning 9ah is entered as 9ah and your gauge will be accurate.


did we ever find the detailed specs on the meter pictured above, and the "special pricing for e-s folks"?
 
Hyena said:
The anal cyclist - that conjures images of a lycra riding a bike with no seat.

Ouch! The "attitude" I've received when passing (under power) some of these guys has me convinced that they've got SOMETHING jammed up there... The guys who are into it just for fitness are OK with me. The "other" kind, who seem to sport corporate sponsorship and insist on cycling in "road owning" packs during rush hour, seem to have a BIG problem with being passed by a big (6'1+", 220lb) casually dressed guy, with a shit-eating grin (thank you, George, may you R.I.P.), sailing past them on a Giant "comfort bike" with fully laden panniers...

Edit: I had something to say that was on-topic, but I've edited it out - I need to run it by some more knowledgable people to make sure I'm not out in left field. Damn. Maybe i should just delete this whole post... Damn. Drooling in public, again...
 
Ramble out loud Phil, you won't be the first or last to do it :p

Crap, I just went to order one of these and the stock level is -33 :(

Double crap that I have 131g left free to add to my shipment and these meters are 129g!
 
Dagnabbit, they've discontinued it, now that I was about to order one!

If we all howl loud enough, do you think there's a chance of them un-discontinuing it?
 
Oh that's the worst! I was going to order a couple for friends when they came back into stock :(

Maybe the weren't up to scratch ?

We should get liveforphysics on the case, he seems to have hobbycity eating out of his hand :p
 
Yeah; I'd finally managed to find someone willing to trade a few hours of me fixing their computer for one of these, and poof, they're gone for good.

Well, I guess I'll see how much more work they need to have done, and just save for the Cycle Analyst, since I'd really rather have that anyway, for the datalogging ability, so I can more easily compare various battery and motor setups on my crazy contraptions, to find the most efficient ways to make them work for how I ride them.
 
Supposedly mine was mailed on the 17th of October but still no sign of the little blue meter. Oh well!
otherDoc
 
i just went there and they said backordered, not discontinued.

why did you guys say discontinued? did they tell you so when you entered the order?

they said backordered when i logged in a cart.
 
i had used my saved link, and added it to the cart, then it said backordered.

when i went bck now, they do state it is discontinued, ....

if someone emails them, find out if they will restock it.
 
Seems like there's just never going to be an amp meter for this cheap. The only user that ever actually received the last one that showed up on the net said it didn't work. http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=10255
 
Mine works.. still $40 for the real wattsup aint too bad. I hope the turnigy's dont explode or something. :D
 
$40? Where at? (HK/HC is $50 plus shipping unless you buy it with another product, then shipping is free)

The "replacement" product for the first product wasn't discontinued as of last night, so they must have done that today. The link for that one to a "replacement" is still broken. The same is true on both their sites of hobbyking and hobbycity.

I haven't yet received a reply to my email to them; hopefully it's not truly discontinued. Doesn't make sense to discontinue something right after it came out, especially if it's that popular!

(though it wouldnt' be the first time I've seen that: Safeway discontinued a number (but not all!) of their very popular and always-sold-out sodas, despite them being *so* popular that they never got enough in on normal orders to satisfy everyone, and always had to special order many cases for people to get enough. The only ones they kept were ones that not much is ever bought of. They also discontinued a few flavors of ramen noodles, their most popular brand and style of peanut butter, and their most popular bacon, among other things--none of them ever replaced with newer items, and all of them available at other stores (even the Safeway sodas are still available as another brand or two directly from the manufacturer!). As far as I can tell, they only discontinue products that are so popular that they can't keep them on the shelves for long, and keep only products that stay on the shelves because few people want them. (Their corporate "customer service" won't discuss the problem with me, and neither will Kroger/Fry's for the same issues they have in their store). )
 
Well speak of the devil and............... My meter just arrived. I don't usually do reviews but here goes!
I unwrapped it (it had a ribbon tied around the outer package, probably so it could be inspected. The leads are 10 ga highly stranded wire that has been pre tinned! No way it goes into standard Andersons. I clipped off the solder globs and twisted the wires and cut a bit and, low and behold, they were attached! Stuck in in my big Ping and it lit up and read 53.42 volts. I compared it with my Whattmeter (Astroflight) which read 53.29 volts so it seems to read a bit high, but certainly good enuf for me. Feel free to ask questions, but it seems to do what they said it would. It has a little 3 prong connector socket on the side, probably for 4.8 volt battery to keep the readings.
otherDoc

edit: A bit more info. I reads a lot of stuff: amps and peak amps, volts and peak volts, wh/hrs, ah, watts and peak watts. That is more info than my whattmeter but it needs to stay powered (4.8-60 volts) to retain the information. Pretty cool.
 
HC has $39.46 for the real wattsup (v2) if you login but they are out.

The turnigy does have a clear plastic over the lcd..
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=29231
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=29232
I guess it doesn't matter now that they've gone and disco'd it.
 
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