Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers

[larsb]

The ramp up / ramp down setting at first settings screen doesn’t work in my (early model) controller but seems to work for others, you can try changing the ramp down settings to see if that helps.

@overclocker: what bugs do you experience?

 

[Overclocker]

larsb, the flux weakening values are very unpredictable. for example i can see in the "display" tab that mid is selected but when i change the fw values for the sport mode the motor RPM changes

another example, if i put zeros on all the fw fields the motor will turn very slowly like 200 or 300 rpm. sometimes the motor won't even turn

the other night i could clearly see that soft start is DISABLED but the bike was acting like it was enabled

 

[rexfordk83]

hi I saw you posted posted you got the low brake to work? what is the difference between that and the high brake? I have the purple wire(high brake) going to my brake switch along with a 12v wire. this is how I was told the regen works. the only issue I have is when I let off the throttle my engine has major braking and Is loud! I looked under the settings and have electronic down hill assest all un check. do you know how to make the motor coast better with out doing this hard braking?

i haven't tried hi-brake but i'm pretty sure it does the same thing, just a different signalling method. using low-brake is more convenient, no need to hook up a 12v line

yeah i've noticed that "coasting" resistance issue. unfortunately the software is buggy as hell. it seems that there are certain combinations of settings that produce such a result. probably the flux weakening numbers

i've also noticed weirdness w/ the soft-start enable/disable

until they fix the bugs i can't recommend this controller

the parameters set right makes sense, because I did forget to mention the motor gets hot under normal riding (just cruising around) I thought that was a red flag. but I never touch flux weakening or anything, but I did adjust my throttle min and max because I had a dead band at beginning. I measured the volts of my twist throttle and at min is .8v and at max is 4.68, so in the throttle setting tap I put min down , but I couldn't go any lower then .9v, if I did it would throw a fault code and motor would not spin until in changed it back to .9 or above. the problem is I still have a dead band in beginning

 

[rexfordk83]

The ramp up / ramp down setting at first settings screen doesn’t work in my (early model) controller but seems to work for others, you can try changing the ramp down settings to see if that helps.

@overclocker: what bugs do you experience?

what are you referring to on the ramp up and ramp down setting?

 

[larsb]

It’s called ”rate of rise” and ”rate of decline” on the screen

 

[Overclocker]

the parameters set right makes sense, because I did forget to mention the motor gets hot under normal riding (just cruising around) I thought that was a red flag. but I never touch flux weakening or anything, but I did adjust my throttle min and max because I had a dead band at beginning. I measured the volts of my twist throttle and at min is .8v and at max is 4.68, so in the throttle setting tap I put min down , but I couldn't go any lower then .9v, if I did it would throw a fault code and motor would not spin until in changed it back to .9 or above. the problem is I still have a dead band in beginning

so here's my votol em100 w/ qs motor 120 70h. it runs pretty cool w/ normal riding (75kph bursts) so yeah that's a red flag. try using my ini file i'm not getting that coasting drag w/ these settings. backup your settings first

as for throttle dead band that's quite typical. try modding your throttle mechanically


View attachment temp.ini

 

[Biophysics]

Hi, ive been driving my gokart for several hours and it has been working great, but now when i was driving arou d 5 km/h i turned the e-lok switch while going that speed and now it says overcurrent everytime i try to use the pedal or roll the gokart. I didnt change any settings i tried to rewrite the same parameters and without sportmode and nothing worked

 

[rexfordk83]

That’s just the dual voltage setting. One level for full battery voltage and one for the more exhausted battery.

I guess flux compensation is a parameter related to the max possible flux weakening current, possibly related to the motor inductance and the setting 0-3000 is fine tuning parameter.

this was a quote above from larbs answering Silverline about what do the two numbers in flux weaking actually mean? so I understand larbs is saying it is for dual voltage and most run single voltage so it that case set the two values the same. I also notice from users here "silent endo" "Silverline". they seem to have great results from keeping the flux at either (2500, 2500,) or (3000,3000)

Im running the qs3000 mid motor with the votol em 150 sp (which I believe is same for silent endo) and my settings for flux came
Sport mode -3000, 200
and high mode -3000,5000.

I noticed the in high mode the motor gets hot, and now it make sense because that 5000 value, but when I contact the supplier they have said " this is what our engineers have tested for max performance and don't touch those numbers."

What I actually think is the 200 in sport mode was a typo and was supposed to be 2500, even after sending the supplier screen shots of my settings they claim 200 is what it is supposed to be. I just find that hard to believe after a few on here had such great response from 2500,2500....

now in high mode if motor is getting hot from normal driving then I believe I should lower that to 3000 for both?

anyone else recently with the SP version controller get there sport mode 3000,200 ?

 

[larsb]

It isn’t correct. If motor actually gets hot then it’s a pointer that efficiency is low. To drive around with 5000 and high setting as default is not recommended, QSmotor gave 80/flux weakening compensation, 3000/flux weakening as max when i asked.
Which seller is this? Doesn’t seem reliable.

 

[rexfordk83]

It isn’t correct. If motor actually gets hot then it’s a pointer that efficiency is low. To drive around with 5000 and high setting as default is not recommended, QSmotor gave 80/flux weakening compensation, 3000/flux weakening as max when i asked.
Which seller is this? Doesn’t seem reliable.

it is SiAECOSYS, Damon is the sales person. they have been good with effort helping me with questions, especially with the language barrier but always difficult to get the correct answers to the questions. so does this sound right for me to change the flux?

sport mode -2500,2500
high mode -3000,3000
and leave compensation at 80?

I actually have two more sets of the em150 and qs138 motors. I bought for other projects, Im curious when I plug those in to software if flux was same as the controller I have now....

thanks for your input

 

[larsb]

Normally you set higher flux weakening in sport than high as sport is intended to be the max setting, but it really doesn’t matter as long as you know what you want.

 

[rexfordk83]

Normally you set higher flux weakening in sport than high as sport is intended to be the max setting, but it really doesn’t matter as long as you know what you want.

is there any truth that a lower flux has more linear tq? where higher flux increases rpm but by diminishing a little bit of tq along the way? just curious because my application (off road scooter- All out of aluminum) im only interested in tq, it is just too dangerous to go faster then 30mph for what I built and was intended to climb hills like a dirtbike for the gear ratio I selected. it definitely climbs amazing hills. I'm super impressed with this package (qs 138 + em150). I know the software is buggy, I found something interesting that might help people first connecting to the software. its seems every time you first connect, the software says communication error or something. I have to restart the program -the then hit research again and then hit open and then hit connect and it connects ever time. so for people that see this just restart the program and do the steps again...

 

[LoopEride]

Hi Everyone,
Over the winter I converted a Kawasaki KE175 into the Electrasaki shown below. I have a 3KWh pack using Sony VTC6 cells, QS3000 mid motor, and an EM-150SP controller. I'm very happy with it. I attempted to add a pic. I spent a fair bit of time on this forum researching how to program things properly using the Votol software, learned about serial to USB, learned something about flux weakening and was able to use that knowledge to fine tune this bike. So, thanks to all of you for contributing to this forum, I really, really appreciate it!

Now, I have a new project, I bought a scooter with a EM-100 and a 3000w QS hub motor. I have made numerous attempts to connect to the controller using the Prolific USB to serial, and the orange/blue lines on the scooter's controller, but no luck. Always I get the "Communication abnormal, no response" message. It's limited to 32KM/HR so I want to change some settings. I tried a few versions of software, supposedly the latest version, tried switching blue and orange, no luck, and I'm getting slow response from the supplier of the scooter about troubleshooting, so I thought maybe someone here has a new idea like a particular setting or wire on the controller that has to be to B+ or I have to hold my breath while turning it on/off three times, or some little thing that I haven't figured out yet. Anyway, I think I'll start barking up the tree of the USB-serial driver and settings, to see if that helps, but again it does work just fine with the EM-150SP.
If any ideas come to mind, please share, and I'll update if I get it figured out.
Thanks,
Dale

 

[j bjork]

It sounds like your controller might be can bus?
In that case you need a different converter to usb.

 

[LoopEride]

J Bork,
So the Prolific USB-serial won't work if the controller is CAN enabled? I thought the EM-150SP was CAN and it works through the orange/blue wires on that one.
If I need a new adapter, is there a brand you recommend?
Thanks!

 

[j bjork]

Well, if your adapter is for a 150sp it must be a usb to can as I understand it.
There are different adapters for the can and not can controllers.
Do you know if the controller you are trying to connect to is can or not?

I don't know much about computers or their communication, there are probably others here that can give better advice on what to use.

 

[yingyong]

Here, who has the firmware of EM-50 orE M-100?, I need it to recovery my controller after replace STM-32 micro controller it broken due to short circuit.

 

[tonuikip]

What is the internal capacitance of em150 votol controller/inverter?

 

[Zlatabanica]

Hi guys. I wanted to share my experience with the EM-200 and the 138 70H QS 3000W. Received my combo two days ago and it wasn't working well. The motor was giving strange buzzing noises right before it start spinning.The settings are done by the book. After few minutes of testing I decided to shut off the system with the e-lock key. At the moment of the shutdown the white smoke of dead came out as you can seen on the pic. Also while reviving the controller I didn't find any temp sensor around the Fets.

 

[Bartosh]

Hi guys. I wanted to share my experience with the EM-200 and the 138 70H QS 3000W (...)

Hey, thanks for sharing. It's really interesting that these controllers fail, when em150 can handle 300bA/500pA or more. BTW IMO the "buzzing" you can hear just before it starts spinning is standard for this controller or the combo. I'm wondering why it popped... Listen, if the uC isn't burnt... we can try to analyze the config post mortem. I'm really curious what the settings are atm, especially phase current and temp. coefficients. You can just remove all the mosfets and give it a try (with a fuse). If it talks and you can export the config ini file using the votol app, please share. Much appreciated.

 

[Zlatabanica]

The setting were:
bA - 60A
pA - 8000
FW - 1500/1500 mid and high
FW sport mode - 2500/2500
Controller temp was 25-26C. Also couldn`t find anywhere any kind of temp sensor around the Fets.
Nothing big and it was unloaded.The controller is back to the living after i replaced 10 Mosfets,5 BTJs transistors and few gate resistors. I am lucky that the MC is not dead. At the moment the controller is working normally with the buzz :lol: . I think the back EMF killed it because before I turn it off i think the motor was buzzing and at the moment i turned it off it died. Also the buzz stays for like 1sec after the motor stops rotating which is strange for me, but I am used working with Hub motors. Also the votol software is one of a kind. Go figure what does what lol.If i lower the FW in the sport mode the rpms get lower even in mid/high(hinge) mode.

 

[Zlatabanica]

Also anyone found how to set normally motor temp protection. The normal software that I got doesn't got any.I found some settings in the hidden calibration menu but don't know if they are real

 

[Bartosh]

The setting were:
bA - 60A
pA - 8000
FW - 1500/1500 mid and high
FW sport mode - 2500/2500

Yeah, so this doesn't explain what happened... Can you export the whole ini anyway? I'm interested in default TCs you have there, just for reference [+maybe some other differences vs em150, let's see]. About the motor temp limit, yes, this is the place to change it, but I can't confirm whether this val is respected.

 

[j bjork]

I am trying to use a 150sp now.
I have some problems with the computer software.
I have 3 versions. When I install them it seems fine, and the first time I open them.

But after that the 2 newer versions looks like this:

It doesn't matter if I delete it and install again, It doesn't even work the first time again.
I have tried 2 computers with the same result, both with windows 7

An older sw works, and I can connect:

But it dosent have all the settings the newer ones have.
I am rather lost when it comes to computers, so I hope someone has an easy solution :?

 

[Zlatabanica]

On the the top right corner you have "English" button. Click it and you will see the things normal again.

I will post the config and pics for reference Bartosh.