j bjork
1 MW
It really was that simple, thanks.
I didn't make the connection ?=Chinese
I thought the computer knew Chinese, but maybe not then.
Oh well, I made a fool of myself. Maybe it helps someone else, so they don't have to
Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers
- Thread starter Stefanj.
- Start date
It really was that simple, thanks.
I didn't make the connection ?=Chinese
I thought the computer knew Chinese, but maybe not then.
Oh well, I made a fool of myself. Maybe it helps someone else, so they don't have to
j bjork
1 MW
Bartosh said:
I want to lift this. My controller was stuck in park. It showed P in the display. I tried to disable in port settings,but it didn't help.
Until I saw this comment and clicked write. Maybe I restarted the controller as well. Another silly mistake maybe, but I thought that making changes in the program changed things in real time, and you just write to save them when you are finished.
Btw, does anyone understand these port settings? What is IO, SW, LA, F, U, D ?
I haven't really seen anything about it in the manual, there are a lot of other things I haven't seen there too.
I haven't looked a lot at them, but it dosent seem very clear if they can be controlled with a input wire?
Edit, I found out a few things when I tried to make low brake (sidestand?) work for regen. IO seems to be normal input- grounded is on.
SW= switching. So ground once-on. Again-off. LA-inverted. But you can combine them too, don't know what happens then..
F- something happens when you use the function. U,D nothing happens..
j bjork
1 MW
rexfordk83 said:
Yes, mine came with the same settings. From what I understand in the manual the second value (like 200 in sport) is only used in double voltage setting. (high volt)
rexfordk83
10 mW
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2020
- Messages
- 30
Zlatabanica said:
I was surprised you could get one. when I bought my combo (em150 + 138 motor) from supplier I ask about the em200 and they said the refuse to sell them anymore just are not reliable enough at the moment until further updates. I was def interested in a bigger controller but also the price is a lot more too.
j bjork
1 MW
It seemed to work fine, I had throttle, I had regen. I turned it on and tried an earlier sw that shows settings for motor temp. I had some connection problems at first, but then it worked. I had strange settings for motor temp, but didn't change anything.
I then connected to the newer sw again, and this is what I get:
The controller gets 81v. I have no reaction to throttle. If I unplug throttle or motor halls I get a fault for that. If I spin the wheel by hand I get rpm.
I have tried to write the same parameters again to the controller, it worked but didn't do any difference.
My settings:
It has some strange settings for FW, but that is how it came.
Any idea what to do?
Edit, Luckily I had saved the parameters it came with. I could load that again, and it worked again.
No idea why
It feels like a real stable controller
I then connected to the newer sw again, and this is what I get:
The controller gets 81v. I have no reaction to throttle. If I unplug throttle or motor halls I get a fault for that. If I spin the wheel by hand I get rpm.
I have tried to write the same parameters again to the controller, it worked but didn't do any difference.
My settings:
It has some strange settings for FW, but that is how it came.
Any idea what to do?
Edit, Luckily I had saved the parameters it came with. I could load that again, and it worked again.
No idea why
It feels like a real stable controller
larsb
1 MW
I had the same issues in my first controller, seems program is not stable in saving/updating, sometimes rendering it corrupt?
Johnnydrive got it fixed when switching to different SW so that could be a fix.
With all the issues people have had i am wondering if this controller can be recommended. It seems too hit and miss. Power vs price is hard to beat though.
Johnnydrive got it fixed when switching to different SW so that could be a fix.
With all the issues people have had i am wondering if this controller can be recommended. It seems too hit and miss. Power vs price is hard to beat though.
j bjork
1 MW
Well, I am almost ready to recommend it after some test rides :wink:
The manual kind of sucks, a lot is missing. The sw for programming seems to have its issues. There dosent seem to be a lot of extra functions. If there are, it is difficult to find them because the manual sucks.
But in sport mode it sure is "on toe", nice throttle response.
I agree with some other posters, it is a very noticeable difference between sport and "not sport" at initial response from stand still. It is really peppy in sport, and a bit sluggish otherwise. I have the same settings in both sport and the other modes, 300 busbar A, 11000 PA, 3000 FW, 100 FWcompensation.
I am not sure if higher PA makes a difference, I think it feels about the same with 9960 and 11000. I haven't tried any higher.
Compared to a nucular24 fet om my qs 138 70h I would say from my very limited testing, and only on feel, that this for sure is more powerful from start.
I think it may be more powerful in the mid range too, but I am not sure. My guess is top is about the same. The nucular for sure has a lot more nice features though. Like the very nice display with very useful parameters and clean install with only a small wire from the handlebars, charging, size, easy setap (with settings that just works)and some useful pwm outputs.
My guess is for this (and maybe other ipm motors) the votol beats it in the low to mid range, maybe top to if you dare to go higher in busbar A. On my qs 205 50h v3 4t the nucular is a killer though.
The manual kind of sucks, a lot is missing. The sw for programming seems to have its issues. There dosent seem to be a lot of extra functions. If there are, it is difficult to find them because the manual sucks.
But in sport mode it sure is "on toe", nice throttle response.
I agree with some other posters, it is a very noticeable difference between sport and "not sport" at initial response from stand still. It is really peppy in sport, and a bit sluggish otherwise. I have the same settings in both sport and the other modes, 300 busbar A, 11000 PA, 3000 FW, 100 FWcompensation.
I am not sure if higher PA makes a difference, I think it feels about the same with 9960 and 11000. I haven't tried any higher.
Compared to a nucular24 fet om my qs 138 70h I would say from my very limited testing, and only on feel, that this for sure is more powerful from start.
I think it may be more powerful in the mid range too, but I am not sure. My guess is top is about the same. The nucular for sure has a lot more nice features though. Like the very nice display with very useful parameters and clean install with only a small wire from the handlebars, charging, size, easy setap (with settings that just works)and some useful pwm outputs.
My guess is for this (and maybe other ipm motors) the votol beats it in the low to mid range, maybe top to if you dare to go higher in busbar A. On my qs 205 50h v3 4t the nucular is a killer though.
The difference is significant. It's more snappy on WOT for sure. My guess: MTPA / id/iq mapping for qs138... or faster current ramping... or both. We can't confirm until Vasiliy implements MTPA in Nucular which unfortunately may take some time :/ BTW still my 0-100kph results are quite the same for both controllers.
scoder
1 µW
- Joined
- Jun 27, 2020
- Messages
- 1
Got a Votol em-150 & a QS 138 motor.
Struggling to get a bit more torque I modified the ramp values to similar settings as SilentEnduro.
Now the motor will not freely spin even with everything disconnected and I get an error code on the Votol "Overcurrent"
I have restored my base settings to the controller but motor still will not turn.
Struggling to get a bit more torque I modified the ramp values to similar settings as SilentEnduro.
Now the motor will not freely spin even with everything disconnected and I get an error code on the Votol "Overcurrent"
I have restored my base settings to the controller but motor still will not turn.
j bjork
1 MW
What programming sw are you using?It seems earlier ones may have issues.
Did you change back your settings, or did you upload old settings?
For me when I got no voltage the settings looked fine. What helped was to upload the old settings, probably something mot visible in the settings got corrupted. I could then change the old settings I uploaded to the same settings I had when it didn't work without problems.
Did you change back your settings, or did you upload old settings?
For me when I got no voltage the settings looked fine. What helped was to upload the old settings, probably something mot visible in the settings got corrupted. I could then change the old settings I uploaded to the same settings I had when it didn't work without problems.
SilentEnduro
10 W
Hi all, I'm back to Votol side)))
https://www.instagram.com/p/CB-ti8DgGMj/ some test of Votol EM-150/2 soon, now with QS 205 (17kv) as a mid-motor
https://www.instagram.com/p/CB-ti8DgGMj/ some test of Votol EM-150/2 soon, now with QS 205 (17kv) as a mid-motor
Zlatabanica
10 µW
- Joined
- Jun 22, 2020
- Messages
- 6
scoder said:Got a Votol em-150 & a QS 138 motor.
Struggling to get a bit more torque I modified the ramp values to similar settings as SilentEnduro.
Now the motor will not freely spin even with everything disconnected and I get an error code on the Votol "Overcurrent"
I have restored my base settings to the controller but motor still will not turn.
If your motor is not spinning freely with everything disconnected(phase wires too) that means you got short circuit on the motor phases which will lead to Overcurrent error due the short.
j bjork
1 MW
I think the manual says hold the throttle steady for x seconds.
Maybe there is a possibility to use one of the wires used for low or high speed if you look at the settings on page 4 in the program?
Maybe there is a possibility to use one of the wires used for low or high speed if you look at the settings on page 4 in the program?
j bjork
1 MW
It was the port setting I meant, when I was talking about using a wire that was intended for another function.
But I haven't tried it myself, so hopefully you will get better answers
But I haven't tried it myself, so hopefully you will get better answers
j bjork
1 MW
Then I would look in PC15, in the roll down menu and see if i could find something about cruise. Then my guess is to mark SW to be able to use a button on port 4. No idea if it works, but might be worth a try.
Just to make sure, you have tried to mark cruise on page 3 and keep the throttle stable?
Just to make sure, you have tried to mark cruise on page 3 and keep the throttle stable?
I have one more question.
I am currently using a 72V 20Amp battery
I am considering buying 72v 40amp lithium batteries.
Can you tell me what will change with the new battery.
My controller is VOTOL EM 50S
I have set it with a maximum amperage of 35 amps, but I have a button with a sports mode and if necessary I use it by setting a value when pressing the 55 amp button.
At the moment I travel about 35-50 km depending on the time I drive or the kilometers. With fully charged batteries I travel about 50 km without stopping, for example, going and returning to a neighboring town, but if I use the bike every day for work then I travel 35 - 40 km within 4 days or 10 km per day.
Other question
Is there a risk that the voltage applied when the brake is applied will damage the lithium battery.
I am currently using a 72V 20Amp battery
I am considering buying 72v 40amp lithium batteries.
Can you tell me what will change with the new battery.
My controller is VOTOL EM 50S
I have set it with a maximum amperage of 35 amps, but I have a button with a sports mode and if necessary I use it by setting a value when pressing the 55 amp button.
At the moment I travel about 35-50 km depending on the time I drive or the kilometers. With fully charged batteries I travel about 50 km without stopping, for example, going and returning to a neighboring town, but if I use the bike every day for work then I travel 35 - 40 km within 4 days or 10 km per day.
Other question
Is there a risk that the voltage applied when the brake is applied will damage the lithium battery.
Zlatabanica
10 µW
- Joined
- Jun 22, 2020
- Messages
- 6
Going from 20ah to 40ah it will increase your travel distance by 2 in theory. Also you will be able to pull out more battery current with less sag and stress for the battery but your controller is weak compared to the battery and you are using the max out of it. So you won't notice a difference in the tourge.
Driving around the city will be aways more power consuming due the go and stop part of it so it is normal to have less travel distance in the city riding.
About the regen I am not sure how the votol logic is set. It should control the regen voltage under the max battery voltage and it should not work when the battery is over 81 volts for safety. But in the end the bms should keep the battery safe with the overvoltage protection.
Driving around the city will be aways more power consuming due the go and stop part of it so it is normal to have less travel distance in the city riding.
About the regen I am not sure how the votol logic is set. It should control the regen voltage under the max battery voltage and it should not work when the battery is over 81 volts for safety. But in the end the bms should keep the battery safe with the overvoltage protection.
Thanks for the reply.
In this case, the distance is important to me. I have reduced the consumption to save battery but actually 50 amps is enough for me. The bike accelerates well, but it is a scooter and the maximum speed allowed in Germany is 45 km. If they take more pictures of me, they will confiscate it from me and they will take my driver's license. So it would be good for me to raise a waste. But if I take a 100 amp controller then what will change?
In this case, the distance is important to me. I have reduced the consumption to save battery but actually 50 amps is enough for me. The bike accelerates well, but it is a scooter and the maximum speed allowed in Germany is 45 km. If they take more pictures of me, they will confiscate it from me and they will take my driver's license. So it would be good for me to raise a waste. But if I take a 100 amp controller then what will change?
Hello
If I decide to buy a controller, what would you recommend?
Who can set up with a program?
I will have to limit it to 45km in first gear but when I want to remove any restrictions.
I'm happy with Votol, but I bought 150 amps before but there were some bugs in the programming. Now I see there are newer models or there are others that are better.
For example, Kelly or others. HELP with what you can
If I decide to buy a controller, what would you recommend?
Who can set up with a program?
I will have to limit it to 45km in first gear but when I want to remove any restrictions.
I'm happy with Votol, but I bought 150 amps before but there were some bugs in the programming. Now I see there are newer models or there are others that are better.
For example, Kelly or others. HELP with what you can
SilentEnduro
10 W
Final notes about Votol EM-150/2
Bike config: QS205 motor (kv17), 40Ah (20s, 88v max) battery, magura throttle, 1:3.25 reduction ratio, almost 590nm on wheel.
Controller config: 200 bA, 9600 pA, throttle config all 255, FWc 80, FW 2300, SportMode, tc not modified
Good news:
it's not pulling down the power so dramatically as previous one, but still have such a wish)))
throttle and torque parameters are editable now
max speed increases (75+ km/h) in comparation with kelly8430 (55km/h)
idle motor RPM - 2600
doesn't overheating, but phase wires are hot
Bad news:
I was able to reach power loss
really huge amps consumption (like 30A idle)
can't go without FW
strange noise from I don't know
https://www.instagram.com/p/CCHF5TJnjGz/
Bike config: QS205 motor (kv17), 40Ah (20s, 88v max) battery, magura throttle, 1:3.25 reduction ratio, almost 590nm on wheel.
Controller config: 200 bA, 9600 pA, throttle config all 255, FWc 80, FW 2300, SportMode, tc not modified
Good news:
it's not pulling down the power so dramatically as previous one, but still have such a wish)))
throttle and torque parameters are editable now
max speed increases (75+ km/h) in comparation with kelly8430 (55km/h)
idle motor RPM - 2600
doesn't overheating, but phase wires are hot
Bad news:
I was able to reach power loss
really huge amps consumption (like 30A idle)
can't go without FW
strange noise from I don't know
https://www.instagram.com/p/CCHF5TJnjGz/
