Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers

SilentEnduro said:
rexfordk83 said:
nice video!,
any reason to solder the sport mode? or just keep it simple since its the only mode you use?
for your busbar current you found 140 to be best?
for the qs 138 motor is your shift angle -60? I believe mine came from factory at -120
Click to expand...

soldered sport mode just to keep it simple, no button needed
140 BA since i have shunt-mod (+30A)
regarding angle, there might be different depending on motor version.

nardcox said:
Are you like a tester or is it out to the public?
Click to expand...
150/2 is still under development and testing, not sure if it's possible to order one.
Agreed with QS that I accept all risks, no warranty etc. =)
Click to expand...

Im new to shunt mode, but can you tell me the advantages of the way you did it, instead of just raising the bus bar current to 170a in software. Im guessing raising it in software might not actually do any increase and by manually doing shunt mode will?
 
larsb said:
CAN is only a communication method. Doesn’t give any benefit if you’re not building a CAN network with controller and other CAN connected parts.

You can read about it here:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAN_bus
Click to expand...
Yes, i've read that and that you can use it to connect to for example the BMS and read and chance data back and forth.. Oh well, I'll just give it a try. By the time I want to build something CAN based I might want a new controller anyway.
 
nardcox said:
SilentEnduro said:
150/2 is still under development and testing, not sure if it's possible to order one.
Agreed with QS that I accept all risks, no warranty etc. =)
Click to expand...
It's not.

I've requested the 'CAN' version of this controller since I've been reading several posts about this in this topic. Now I'm not a 100% clear what the CAN version does vs the non CAN version but the response I got from QS is:
"There is no CAN for this EM-150, we programmed the controller already. We will ship one program cable to you for free, you can program the controller if you plan to do it."

Am I missing something and is this perfectly fine or am I'm being misinformed?

EDIT: The EM150SP does have a CAN version, not sure if the EM150 doesn't.
Click to expand...


So basically there are following known versions of Votol EM-150:
Votol EM-150s - Sport (oldest one)
Votol EM-150P - Regular
Votol EM-150SP - aka CAN
Votol EM-150/2 - completely new controller


IMG_20200507_203132.jpg
 
rexfordk83 said:
SilentEnduro said:
rexfordk83 said:
nice video!,
any reason to solder the sport mode? or just keep it simple since its the only mode you use?
for your busbar current you found 140 to be best?
for the qs 138 motor is your shift angle -60? I believe mine came from factory at -120
Click to expand...

soldered sport mode just to keep it simple, no button needed
140 BA since i have shunt-mod (+30A)
regarding angle, there might be different depending on motor version.

nardcox said:
Are you like a tester or is it out to the public?
Click to expand...
150/2 is still under development and testing, not sure if it's possible to order one.
Agreed with QS that I accept all risks, no warranty etc. =)
Click to expand...

Im new to shunt mode, but can you tell me the advantages of the way you did it, instead of just raising the bus bar current to 170a in software. Im guessing raising it in software might not actually do any increase and by manually doing shunt mode will?
Click to expand...

only one reason for shunt-mod - power loss at climbing, if you are not experiencing this, don't mod it)
 
The 150/2 has been on the Votol homepage since about a year, is the slightly smaller size the only advantage or is program also changed?
Seems power out is the same as the other 150 controllers so maybe only difference is the connector setup?
 
jonnydrive said:
I am experimenting issues just powered up the Votol 150 controller with the QS 3000 mid motor.
At the beginning only "undervoltage" error appeared, after some tests also other two errors appeared: "Controller Fault" and "Hall Fault".

mysettings_error.PNG

The problem seems to have been solved using a specific version of the controller tool "EM_V3-EM200-11-English.exe" found here
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/f8p4vd7gpaxs ... 8Ubxa?dl=0

in folder EM controller > EM200.

In this version of the tool I can also change the controller version with the right one(votol-150 for me).

I also asked QS for the right settings for the QS3000 he said that I have to change only the battery voltage to make things work.
Click to expand...
Hello sam problem here when you changed program it just started working for you?I did the same but still no sucess.thanks for any help
 
Hello sam problem here when you changed program it just started working for you?I did the same but still no sucess.thanks for any help
[/quote]

Use the last version you can find in this thread, it worked for me. If not, re-check all wires and connections. Probably you are messing up the wirings, but some time could be a faulty controller. Make only the needed connections (throttle, battery, etc) and test it. If it works add additional ones (brake switch, gear switch, display, etc).
 
Hello guys i'am about to connect headlights to my speedometer thats connected to my em-150 controller. My question is. Can i use power from the main 72v battery via the controller and wiring harness or do i need a separate 12v battery to power the headlights.

Do the controller sends out 12v via any cables?
 
larsb said:
"brake high" pin is +12V - it still cannot be used to drive a headlight since it likely only can output less than 1A and you'd need several amperes of current.
Click to expand...
The hi-beam cable from the speedometer should just be connected to the 12v positive from the external 12v battery right. Wiyth a switch inbetween
 
So my gokart is working almost perferc with the em150 and qs 3kw motor. But when i hold full throttle and release the pedal to slow down it keeps on going on full speed even if the pedal isn't pushed in at all. Any body knows the problem
 
Im considering Votol Em-150 or Em-200
Which should I buy, I hear someone talking about problems with the em-200?

Is following possible with Votol
- Regen
- Switch to different mode with button (eco, sport, race) and also set these amp values myself?
- bluetooth or other connection to get data while driving?
 
Pota said:
Im considering Votol Em-150 or Em-200
Which should I buy, I hear someone talking about problems with the em-200?

Is following possible with Votol
- Regen
- Switch to different mode with button (eco, sport, race) and also set these amp values myself?
- bluetooth or other connection to get data while driving?
Click to expand...
I now the first two works on em-150. I don't know about bluetooth but i dont think so
 
emil@whitepoint.se said:
So my gokart is working almost perferc with the em150 and qs 3kw motor. But when i hold full throttle and release the pedal to slow down it keeps on going on full speed even if the pedal isn't pushed in at all. Any body knows the problem
Click to expand...

Can be phase angle setting not correct or flux weakening too high. Are you using potentiometer throttle? Then could be useful to get a cheap hall throttle to test with, could be this also.
 
This throttle issue is really wierd, when i go fast abd let off the throttle the controller shuts off and waits for me to come to a complete stop before i can use the throttle again and these two symbols show up on the display, Im using a 0-5v throttle that has a magnet and a sensor, i dont know what they are called
 

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Hello, the same problem was happening to me and it turns out that it was a problem in the motor sensors that were a little outside the magnets
Is your motor hub or mid? mine is hub.
 
Hmmm, i dont know if that is the problem the motor is vrand new, maybe i explained it ba. When i go full throttle and reach a certain speed with high acceleration the trottle turna off and i have to stop before i can use it again and those two bubble sgow up on the display
 
I don't know if that's your problem, but if it was mine, in any case check the motor connections, they may be poorly connected. Previously it worked fine, did you change any settings?
 
Overclocker said:
low brake.jpg

finally figured out how to get regen brake using the low-brake wire (gray/black) momentary switch to ground (black wire)

this controller is such a pain. documentation sucks
Click to expand...

Yes, we use it on our electric gokart. Unfortunately only I/o
 
I finally got the 138 mid motor and the votol em150 SP controller all hooked up to a homemade aluminum scooter I built. this thing is way overkill (it wheelies).

one issue I’m having is there seems to be a lot of engine braking when you let off the throttle, kind of like regen and it’s very noisy!.... but I have those two boxes unchecked in the settings tab (pic is attached ) I also have the high brake wire connected to a 12 V line connected to a brake switch, so my region braking works when I tap the brake lever. so that's nit the problem just when you let off the throttle is the problem. is there any other setting that I missed which would allow the engine braking to not be as severe and coast better. thanks


pics
https://drive.google.com/open?id=17lLZmiDoFwuh76EHp9U406CGvLTUg5vA
 

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the pic of setting tabs was just a reference this is not my actual settings, but where I circled I have those un checked, and on the next page I have the regen ebs ratio real low(3%)
 

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rexfordk83 said:
hi I saw you posted posted you got the low brake to work? what is the difference between that and the high brake? I have the purple wire(high brake) going to my brake switch along with a 12v wire. this is how I was told the regen works. the only issue I have is when I let off the throttle my engine has major braking and Is loud! I looked under the settings and have electronic down hill assest all un check. do you know how to make the motor coast better with out doing this hard braking?
Click to expand...


i haven't tried hi-brake but i'm pretty sure it does the same thing, just a different signalling method. using low-brake is more convenient, no need to hook up a 12v line

yeah i've noticed that "coasting" resistance issue. unfortunately the software is buggy as hell. it seems that there are certain combinations of settings that produce such a result. probably the flux weakening numbers

i've also noticed weirdness w/ the soft-start enable/disable

until they fix the bugs i can't recommend this controller
 
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