Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers

[BareKuda]

for the display well mine doesn't show the speed anymore after i installed the votol , i connected the single line, but on setting the one-line show 0kph and hall speedometer show 5kph no matter what.
so im just using my phone to see the speed, i was just thinking to buy the display from qs motor as it seems to be just plug n play.

You can open your display and see whats on the back of the board.

On my display i have wires for both Phase and Hall/Single wire:


Purple wire is phase and red/black for Hall/Single wire

If you open your display you can see if you have a place for hall wire like this one:


If it has the extra wire or place for the wire you can make the white wire on the votol work for hall simulation and maybe if lucky your board suppprts YXT single wire.

Worst case is you have no calibration adjustment and no place for hall wire, then you just need a very thin wire or fused wire from one of your phase wire connections to the display speed wire.

Yoi can make a temporary jumper to see if the display works with phase signal. It should show the same speed as before since the motor didn't change so the phase pulses per km will be the same.

 

[BareKuda]

as for the bluetooth module i should get it next week , it is working for both iphone and android but the application is only in chinese, i can translate it so i will try, this should be very usefull, if it really work good, i will make a translation to share.

Do you have a link for the ios app? I will download and see how it looks.

 

[deida789]

as for the bluetooth module i should get it next week , it is working for both iphone and android but the application is only in chinese, i can translate it so i will try, this should be very usefull, if it really work good, i will make a translation to share.

Do you have a link for the ios app? I will download and see how it looks.

i haven't received the module, i asked the seller but he said i need to wait first to have on my hand to bid it, but here is the link, it seems that it can be connected only to one phone (seems they allowed manualy to bind the connection)

you should read the description maybe you will understand better than me (as my mother language not english lol )
https://a.aliexpress.com/_uRqT2o

 

[deida789]

as for my display its a basic one i think, im not so good on wiring but it doesnt seem to have hall cable

i have a new one i wanted to install but the way to read the speed in insanely weird, it work with a magnet sensor and accept only 12v

 

[BareKuda]

Bluetooth module and app…

It looks like it has potential until Siaecosys gets their act together and makes one.

From what i gathered they somehow use WeChat to bind the bluetooth to one device for Android and iOS will be a hassle because they don't have it in the ios store.

For $12 plus shipping it seems like a reasonable price if you can use a mobile phone instead of a window laptop or tablet

 

[BareKuda]

as for my display its a basic one i think, im not so good on wiring but it doesnt seem to have hall cable

Can you get a very clear closeup of this Chinese so we can translate it?


I think it says 一线通 which is the single wire signal the votol can make.

You only need to add a wire from there and switch it with your other speed signal wire (so you can use either one later), or you can just de-solder the curent speed wire and solder it there.

Then set controller for single line and set the port for single line and you might get all things working.

 

[deida789]

as for my display its a basic one i think, im not so good on wiring but it doesnt seem to have hall cable

Can you get a very clear closeup of this Chinese so we can translate it?


I think it says 一线通 which is the single wire signal the votol can make.

You only need to add a wire from there and switch it with your other speed signal wire (so you can use either one later), or you can just de-solder the curent speed wire and solder it there.

Then set controller for single line and set the port for single line and you might get all things working.

waaaa you are right ! it say one- line, so i just have to de solder the purple one and solder to the one line, i should have asked you early instead of buying a new one

Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk

 

[BareKuda]

..display….

Heres a video of what my $20 display shows when connected to either basic hall wire to the hall wire in the display or a phase wire to the phase wire of a display:
[youtube] https://youtu.be/7zPCIAJLfAQ[/youtube]

And here is the same $20 display with the Votol white wire connected to the Red/Black Hall/YXT wire, and setting the controller to output single line signal:
[youtube] https://youtu.be/Luas1bIHrRo[/youtube]

Right away the 3 speed indicator shows up, and when you activate either brake sensor then the eABS icon lights up, and I recently learned when you dont plug the motor hall wires in completely and go over a bump that disconnects them, a “motor error” icon lights up. And there are other things the display can show but I haven’t seen them get activated yet.

 

[BareKuda]

…

That looks like Chinese YXT so if you can carefully solder a wire on that, and put a connector on the end, then swap out the other speed signal wire, just tape the end so it doesn't short out, and you will get something working. Then you can use the adjustment screw to calibrate it.

My adjustment screw was very glitchy and sensitive, jumping to over 100 kph and sometimes 0, but there is a spot that will make it right. I calculated mine by the votol display RPM and the tire circumference and got it within +/-1 km/h. (Another reason to have pole pairs set correctly to get correct RPM).

 

[deida789]

…

That looks like Chinese YXT so if you can carefully solder a wire on that, and put a connector on the end, then swap out the other speed signal wire, just tape the end so it doesn't short out, and you will get something working. Then you can use the adjustment screw to calibrate it.

My adjustment screw was very glitchy and sensitive, jumping to over 100 kph and sometimes 0, but there is a spot that will make it right. I calculated mine by the votol display RPM and the tire circumference and got it within +/-1 km/h. (Another reason to have pole pairs set correctly to get correct RPM).

Well i really have to thank you , here is the short video of the display i did it and it works now, finaly i can see the speed [emoji106]

Ps: set the rate of decline to 0 was not a good idea, because after i accelerated just a little, it went to the max speed by itself and never stop i had to turn it off, so i set it to 20 and no problem

https://youtube.com/shorts/CWZHds6tHWA?feature=share

 

[BareKuda]

Well i really have to thank you , here is the short video of the display i did it and it works now, finaly i can see the speed [emoji106]

Ps: set the rate of decline to 0 was not a good idea, because after i accelerated just a little, it went to the max speed by itself and never stop i had to turn it off, so i set it to 20 and no problem

https://youtube.com/shorts/CWZHds6tHWA?feature=share

Nice. Which methid did you use? Phase wire or connect to the YXT terminal on your display board? I can tell you many who bought that bike have the same problem. If you connected to YXT and set your controller port to single line and set single-line output in the settings you might see extra stuff.

I even saw an extra icon but not sure what it meant or why i got it. Probably some sort of fault.

And yes, NEVER set rate of decline to 0. I already tested it. The program should reject any entry less than 10 or so.

My settings are
0
0
350
250

That gives maximum rise and fall in torque. This along with leaving Soft Start unchecked makes the bike very peppy. From this setting, you can use the low and mid gear to tame the torque by using 50% and 70%.

I also played with starting torque and combined torque and didnt see any significant change.

That model bike starts at about $800 with 60v32ah lead acid batteries, 1500watt controller and 800w motor. Many varieties from that to get better motor, controller and battery. The key is not to get Caught in the endless loop of
1. Controller too weak, buy more powers controller.
2. Controller uses so much power the battery needs more capacity and higher discharge amps.
3. Now the motor cant handle rhe 5000 watts contInuous that my controler and batteru can deliver so buy 5000w motor.
4. Go back to step 1 and repeat. Lol.

So ideally you get the bike with everything you want in step 1 so you dont have 3 controllers, 6 batteries ans 2 extra motors laying around.

But im in the same endless cycle with my $600 scooter. I got a 2000w controller and a 500 watt motor and a 60v20ah sla battery. My EM 30 is just set for 20a busbar and 25a sport mode until i decide to upgrade motor and battery.

 

[deida789]

Well i really have to thank you , here is the short video of the display i did it and it works now, finaly i can see the speed [emoji106]

Ps: set the rate of decline to 0 was not a good idea, because after i accelerated just a little, it went to the max speed by itself and never stop i had to turn it off, so i set it to 20 and no problem

https://youtube.com/shorts/CWZHds6tHWA?feature=share

Nice. Which methid did you use? Phase wire or connect to the YXT terminal on your display board? I can tell you many who bought that bike have the same problem. If you connected to YXT and set your controller port to single line and set single-line output in the settings you might see extra stuff.

I even saw an extra icon but not sure what it meant or why i got it. Probably some sort of fault.

And yes, NEVER set rate of decline to 0. I already tested it. The program should reject any entry less than 10 or so.

My settings are
0
0
350
250

That gives maximum rise and fall in torque. This along with leaving Soft Start unchecked makes the bike very peppy. From this setting, you can use the low and mid gear to tame the torque by using 50% and 70%.

I also played with starting torque and combined torque and didnt see any significant change.

That model bike starts at about $800 with 60v32ah lead acid batteries, 1500watt controller and 800w motor. Many varieties from that to get better motor, controller and battery. The key is not to get Caught in the endless loop of
1. Controller too weak, buy more powers controller.
2. Controller uses so much power the battery needs more capacity and higher discharge amps.
3. Now the motor cant handle rhe 5000 watts contInuous that my controler and batteru can deliver so buy 5000w motor.
4. Go back to step 1 and repeat. Lol.

So ideally you get the bike with everything you want in step 1 so you dont have 3 controllers, 6 batteries ans 2 extra motors laying around.

But im in the same endless cycle with my $600 scooter. I got a 2000w controller and a 500 watt motor and a 60v20ah sla battery. My EM 30 is just set for 20a busbar and 25a sport mode until i decide to upgrade motor and battery.

ooh, you are well made informed, yes this bike cost around 800$ minimum depending on the configuration , i got it with 72v 30ah lead acid and that chinese controller ( horrible) and horrible break , so i changed the battery to lithium and controler.

i'm more into high torque and speed, thats why.


i was going to change the motor for a 5000w but when i see what it can do with just a 2000w i'm starting to think lol

As for the display i just de-solder the purple cable and i solder it on the "on line " like you showed me, but i left the setting on "hall speedometer" the "one-line" didn't show anything

20ah isn't it too less? well to see your config, soon you will upgrade too i think

 

[BareKuda]

ooh, you are well made informed, yes this bike cost around 800$ minimum depending on the configuration , i got it with 72v 30ah lead acid and that chinese controller ( horrible) and horrible break , so i changed the battery to lithium and controler.

i'm more into high torque and speed, thats why.


i was going to change the motor for a 5000w but when i see what it can do with just a 2000w i'm starting to think lol

As for the display i just de-solder the purple cable and i solder it on the "on line " like you showed me, but i left the setting on "hall speedometer" the "one-line" didn't show anything

20ah isn't it too less? well to see your config, soon you will upgrade too i think

Did you change both settigs to one-wire, save settings, cycle controller off and on, then test?



I see your display has pads for gear 1-2-3 so its quite possible it only works if there are is a separate 3-wire cable from your controller. I saw something about that in he aliexpress advertisement.

But even if gear 1-2-3 dont work, some other hidden icons may show up. If you squeeze the brake you might see an eABS icont, if you unplug your hall connector to your motor you might see the “motor fault” icon.

If the speedometer works with both settings above on ONE-WIRE you can leave it like that and see if any extra icons show when riding it.

About batteries, your 72v30AH can deliver 2200 watts at a moderate 1C discharge rate. A 60v20AH can only give about 1200 watts at 1C discharge.

The $800 one is really a good value. I ghink it used the same original controller i have which seems like sine wave because it’s so quite you cant hear it going down the road.

My scooter can do 45km/h with a tailwind, but the $800 ebike can go 45 or without even straining and probably a little higher.

Im also curious to see what you can get from the 2000w motor. I have HDC RPM at 700, all flux weakening at 0, the sync rate (the box on right in sport mode) is 800,

I played with higher speed on the center stand but when it goes above base speed into flux weakening it sounds frantic. Probably not hurting anything but since i dont have the amps to go faster than base speed it doesn’t matter. If i get a 1000w-2000w motor and a lithium battery i can make it faster but any faster and it needs to be registered as a motorcycle.

 

[deida789]

Did you change both settigs to one-wire, save settings, cycle controller off and on, then test?
View attachment 1


I see your display has pads for gear 1-2-3 so its quite possible it only works if there are is a separate 3-wire cable from your controller. I saw something about that in he aliexpress advertisement.

But even if gear 1-2-3 dont work, some other hidden icons may show up. If you squeeze the brake you might see an eABS icont, if you unplug your hall connector to your motor you might see the “motor fault” icon.

If the speedometer works with both settings above on ONE-WIRE you can leave it like that and see if any extra icons show when riding it.

About batteries, your 72v30AH can deliver 2200 watts at a moderate 1C discharge rate. A 60v20AH can only give about 1200 watts at 1C discharge.

The $800 one is really a good value. I ghink it used the same original controller i have which seems like sine wave because it’s so quite you cant hear it going down the road.

My scooter can do 45km/h with a tailwind, but the $800 ebike can go 45 or without even straining and probably a little higher.

Im also curious to see what you can get from the 2000w motor. I have HDC RPM at 700, all flux weakening at 0, the sync rate (the box on right in sport mode) is 800,

I played with higher speed on the center stand but when it goes above base speed into flux weakening it sounds frantic. Probably not hurting anything but since i dont have the amps to go faster than base speed it doesn’t matter. If i get a 1000w-2000w motor and a lithium battery i can make it faster but any faster and it needs to be registered as a motorcycle.

Ah, i didn't change it on the port setting, it was something with "Hall

so i will change to on line, but anyway even like that its working, and yes i have 3 gear switch that work fine [emoji106] , well as for the controller , the chinese one was extremely quiet i couldn't hear anything, while with votol is different.


i'm also wondering what can be the max, for hdc is set to 1200 and flux is 60, but on "display" page it set to 30.

i dont know if there i can go more up or not

 

[BareKuda]

so i will change to on line, but anyway even like that its working, and yes i have 3 gear switch that work fine [emoji106] ,

The 3-gear switch works independent of the display. Im saying once you set your controller to send one line data, you might see your gears 1-2-3 display like on mine. If you watched my two videos, the 1-2-3 was gone without one-line, and only appeara once the diplay get the one line communication data stream from the controller.

Since that display of yours says “one line” i think it has some features that will show up once you send it the one line data from your controller. My one line data gives me speed 1-2-3 number, eABS when i apply brakes, motor fault icon when a hall wire is disconnected, and a few others.

So if you change the port PB9 to one-line and set the setting on page 3 to one-line, write param, cycle the controller off and back on, i think you will see extra things show up.

 

[BareKuda]

well as for the controller , the chinese one was extremely quiet i couldn't hear anything, while with votol is different.

i'm also wondering what can be the max, for hdc is set to 1200 and flux is 60, but on "display" page it set to 30.

i dont know if there i can go more up or not

The flux shown on the expanded tab with “Voltage, Current and Flux” is the controller calibration and should not be messed with. Its set at the factory to be correct for that controller.

The flux shown on the display page after you click “switch” is what you are supposed to be using to know if flux weakening settings on the other pages are correct.

There are 5 boxes you can enter flux weakening. One is in sport mode. The left box is flux weakening and the right box is sync or anti-jitter”. Also below the 3 speed switch settings you have flux weakening boxes.

You need to treat the sync box very special because when that is wrong and your controller looses sync with the motor as you accelerate you will get a very loud and violent rumbling sound like you hear going 160 km/h over rumble grooves in a highway designed to wake up drunk or sleeping drivers.

The allowable range is 100-1200 for sync, with changes of 50 being recommended between road tests. It wont rumble mucn on the center stand but under load it will.

At 300 mine rumbles violently at about 10 km/h. Around 600 it starts to behave. But going above 900 you get other sounds at higher speed or hard acceleration

Even at my best sync setting, the motor gets a resonance at about 100 RPM which is about 8 km/h. My original controller doesnt do it so i know it’s somewhere this controller is doing that my motor doesnt really like. I even tried advancing and retarding the hall shift angle and that didn’t help.

If i had your bike I would start with all 5 flux weakening at 0, since thats what your old controller was using since it didnt have flux weakening. Then see how many RPM it can run on the center stand in sports mode. Check your indicated km/h on your display since thats proportional to RPM. Then road test to see how fast it goes.

Once you get your moble app and Bluetooth it will be much easier since you need to be checking a lot of things, rpm. Noise, amp draw, and flux values.

But if you start at 0 flux weakening and add 500 per test until you get no further speed increase, then decrease it by 100 until you reach peak speed during test, that will give you ideal flux value, but you need to be watching the amps because your controller can continually send more than your motor can take continuously.

But before you get too deep in setting flux you should verify pole pairs and set that correctly. I showed you the link to how to verify it 100% without doubt. Since its not an off-the-shelf QS motor they don't really know. And changing pole pair numbers to an incorrect value may make it appear you got it running better but it only means you had another setting wrong and put a bandaid on it.

So try to make start safe and work your way up, checking motor and phase wire temperature. Flux weakening will allow your motor to accept more current than it can without flux weakening.

 

[BareKuda]

as for the bluetooth module i should get it next week , it is working for both iphone and android but the application is only in chinese, i can translate it so i will try, this should be very usefull, if it really work good, i will make a translation to share.

When i took a screenshot and ran the image through an online OCR Chinese to English translator, I saw some very interesting and potentially very critical information.

All along we were led to believe there are 5-6 boxes for adjusting flux weakening (excluding calibration box), but according to this mobile app there is ONLY ONE, and thats the left box under sports mode.

More recently read the box on the right was sync timing, which may be another name for its effect, but this chinese app (circled in yellow) says its KI value.

Further down in another box we all thought was flux weakening, also circled in yellow, is KP value.


After a little digging i found that these Votol controllers use ST Microprocessors, which are basically designed to run BLDC motors. Within the chip there are settings for KI and KP, which are vital components in a PID control. These have nothing to do with flux weakening but rather the way the controller gets the right output in the fastest and smoothest way. Setting these values too high or too low will cause the control loop to overshoot or undershoot the correct output.

With this in mind i will go try to adjust those and see if i can get that annoying resonance at 100 RPM to go away.

Also, the remaining 3 boxes circle in red have to do with phase current limits, which might also be important to set correctly for smooth and quiet operation. Like the phase current box on page one that everyone says leave it set on 6900 or some very high number. Perhaps these also need a high number so they don’t interrupt the PID loop.

This chinese app appears to have labeled all boxes much more clearly than the offial Windows app does. Whoever made it should use the source code and spend a few minutes getting the English translation and making an English version or adding a languages choice switch in the app.

 

[deida789]

as for the bluetooth module i should get it next week , it is working for both iphone and android but the application is only in chinese, i can translate it so i will try, this should be very usefull, if it really work good, i will make a translation to share.

When i took a screenshot and ran the image through an online OCR Chinese to English translator, I saw some very interesting and potentially very critical information.

All along we were led to believe there are 5-6 boxes for adjusting flux weakening (excluding calibration box), but according to this mobile app there is ONLY ONE, and thats the left box under sports mode.

More recently read the box on the right was sync timing, which may be another name for its effect, but this chinese app (circled in yellow) says its KI value.

Further down in another box we all thought was flux weakening, also circled in yellow, is KP value.


After a little digging i found that these Votol controllers use ST Microprocessors, which are basically designed to run BLDC motors. Within the chip there are settings for KI and KP, which are vital components in a PID control. These have nothing to do with flux weakening but rather the way the controller gets the right output in the fastest and smoothest way. Setting these values too high or too low will cause the control loop to overshoot or undershoot the correct output.

With this in mind i will go try to adjust those and see if i can get that annoying resonance at 100 RPM to go away.

Also, the remaining 3 boxes circle in red have to do with phase current limits, which might also be important to set correctly for smooth and quiet operation. Like the phase current box on page one that everyone says leave it set on 6900 or some very high number. Perhaps these also need a high number so they don’t interrupt the PID loop.

This chinese app appears to have labeled all boxes much more clearly than the offial Windows app does. Whoever made it should use the source code and spend a few minutes getting the English translation and making an English version or adding a languages choice switch in the app.

you went deep into [emoji33] well then 100% sure i will translate it, i should receive it this week end, and yes i think the windows software is not really clear, this morning i did what you say to change "on-line" on both page 3 and port setting, after turn off/on the lcd was stuck at 99. so i put it back to hall and it work there is just 8khm difference from display. So its fine for me.


And has the 2 right box "low" "mid" i wanted to play a little to see, so i put 50 on low right and 60 on mid right, its different on low switch, it send alot of power like if it was on the mid mode, and mid mode like third mode, so its really weird the way its made, this time i changed only the low to 25, mid i let it to 60.

The point of saying that is these setting "right box" no matter how many members wrote about the effect, it seems either each controller react differently or its just my imagination.

 

[BareKuda]

this morning i did what you say to change "on-line" on both page 3 and port setting, after turn off/on the lcd was stuck at 99. so i put it back to hall and it work there is just 8khm difference from display. So its fine for me.

The YXT protocol definitely sends a higher speed signal than hall sensor. My display also went crazy high at first until I adjusted the calibration on the back of the board, which was very erratic, jumping 0 and 199 with tiny changes, but eventually i got it right on the money.

Later for testing, i put my old controller back in, and connected the display to one of my hall sensors. The speed was only half of actual speed. So the YXT speed signal is compared with the hall connector on the display, but does not send the same data.

Heres my display with hall simulate:


And here’s some of the data that appears when i use YXT (one-line)


The way it should work, set both controller settings for one-line-communication (YXT), then adjust the calibration screw on the back of your board until your speed is correct. It might be very sensitive like mine but eventually you might find the right adjustment that makes it perfect.

Did you test for any other YXT data such as gear indicator, brakes, motor fault? etc? If you send YXT data and none of these thungs show up, then might as well use hall simulation. It would just be sad to know features are waiting for you if you just set it right. Lol

 

[deida789]

this morning i did what you say to change "on-line" on both page 3 and port setting, after turn off/on the lcd was stuck at 99. so i put it back to hall and it work there is just 8khm difference from display. So its fine for me.

The YXT protocol definitely sends a higher speed signal than hall sensor. My display also went crazy high at first until I adjusted the calibration on the back of the board, which was very erratic, jumping 0 and 199 with tiny changes, but eventually i got it right on the money.

Later for testing, i put my old controller back in, and connected the display to one of my hall sensors. The speed was only half of actual speed. So the YXT speed signal is compared with the hall connector on the display, but does not send the same data.

Heres my display with hall simulate:
View attachment 1

And here’s some of the data that appears when i use YXT (one-line)


The way it should work, set both controller settings for one-line-communication (YXT), then adjust the calibration screw on the back of your board until your speed is correct. It might be very sensitive like mine but eventually you might find the right adjustment that makes it perfect.

Did you test for any other YXT data such as gear indicator, brakes, motor fault? etc? If you send YXT data and none of these thungs show up, then might as well use hall simulation. It would just be sad to know features are waiting for you if you just set it right. Lol

oh, you have more knowledge than me about it, its very annoying to remove the display i have to remove different parts before that , so honestly the way it know its ok for me , as for the other function when i did select all with "on-line" i did not see the gears or something else appear, i know there is 3 empty slot under the on-line to read the gear , but i dont know what cable to connect on it, and at least for me like now its really fine lol


Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk

 

[BareKuda]

The point of saying that is these setting "right box" no matter how many members wrote about the effect, it seems either each controller react differently or its just my imagination.

Yes, different versions of the hardware or software seem to behave differently. My controller seems to work like the Chinese software states.

If i set my setting like this:


My ebike wont move in speed 1 because the current limit is 0%.

But the Chinese software states clearly low and mid are current % and high is “super modulation”, which I believe means how many % above 100% you want to feed it to allow for acceleration up to the high speed setting.


I believe right box for high gear can be 0% (100% current) up to 20% (120% current). Im not sure if setting it to 100% will give it 200%. I will do more testing.

As far as PID control systems, i worked with that many years for process control but not motor control. I understand P is proportional, I is integral, D is derivative. Each of these have a specific effect on the way the output signal changes in response to a change in the setpoint (throttle setting) and the control point (actual motor speed).

Its also used on subloops such as controling the current going to the phase as needed to give you the motor speed you are asking for with the throttle.

ST Micro says you normally using sophisticated equipment to measure the output when tuning but the average person doesn’t have this so we need a method that only uses what we can observe during road test.

Normally there is a way ro set a procedure where you start with default values in for P and I, then do some sort of test with the throttle and based on what happens, increase or decrease P or I until you get better behavior, then do another test and adjust the other setting.

Next i need to look through the ST Micro datasheets to see if they have any input ranges, such as the 100-1200 we see shown for the right box of sports mode.

Until then i will just look at as many QS motor default settings and see if i can find an average and then adjust from there to see the effect.

 

[deida789]

The point of saying that is these setting "right box" no matter how many members wrote about the effect, it seems either each controller react differently or its just my imagination.

Yes, different versions of the hardware or software seem to behave differently. My controller seems to work like the Chinese software states.

If i set my setting like this:
View attachment 1

My ebike wont move in speed 1 because the current limit is 0%.

But the Chinese software states clearly low and mid are current % and high is “super modulation”, which I believe means how many % above 100% you want to feed it to allow for acceleration up to the high speed setting.


I believe right box for high gear can be 0% (100% current) up to 20% (120% current). Im not sure if setting it to 100% will give it 200%. I will do more testing.

As far as PID control systems, i worked with that many years for process control but not motor control. I understand P is proportional, I is integral, D is derivative. Each of these have a specific effect on the way the output signal changes in response to a change in the setpoint (throttle setting) and the control point (actual motor speed).

Its also used on subloops such as controling the current going to the phase as needed to give you the motor speed you are asking for with the throttle.

ST Micro says you normally using sophisticated equipment to measure the output when tuning but the average person doesn’t have this so we need a method that only uses what we can observe during road test.

Normally there is a way ro set a procedure where you start with default values in for P and I, then do some sort of test with the throttle and based on what happens, increase or decrease P or I until you get better behavior, then do another test and adjust the other setting.

Next i need to look through the ST Micro datasheets to see if they have any input ranges, such as the 100-1200 we see shown for the right box of sports mode.

Until then i will just look at as many QS motor default settings and see if i can find an average and then adjust from there to see the effect.

i see, so the fact that qs set 8 on high box was on purpose, so as im already at 110a , the 8 means that it goes behond the 110, if rhats the case im amazed the controller can send that, mine was rated to can send 130a maximum.

i will try to test more to see and keeping update.

because your controller definetly react not like mine since at 0 it still goes fast.


Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk

 

[BareKuda]

I spent 1 month searching the internet for my display to replace my original one which had no speeds or voltage readings. No LCD, only some LEDs for a 4-bar power meter, turn signal, headlght. It honestly looks like something you would see on a kids toy car.

In the process i saw lots of boards with their description. Some state clearly YXT will make the 3-speed work, while others state clearly you need a special set if wires from your Controller to get those speed to show on the display.

I was even wondering if they can be connected to the 3-gear switch but those wires are low signal negative and high signal so it didnt seem like that would make the gear 1-2-3 show on the display.

Yes, even my display is a pain to take off because to reach the connector i need to take off a lot of plastic, then removed 4 screws holding the base on, then remove the nut holding the display to the base, then remove 4 screws holding the display case together, then removed 3 screws holding the board to the case. All that is needed to reach the calibration adjustment. Then i have to put it all together.

So for your situation, you can collect data on speedometer error using your GPS. Then later when you have time you can see what RPM in the votol program gives what indicated speed, and then lock that RPM and adjust the screw for the speed you got from GPS.

 

[BareKuda]

Yes, for high the 8 means 108% of your sport current so 119a which is under the rated current and that controller can do peaks above rated current.

I just went out and tested mine again, set Low current % to 0 and with gear 1 selected on my switch, the motor didn't run. Even 1% it didn't run. At 5% it moved ver slowly. But my bus current is set for 20a and sport mode 25a, so 5% is only 1.25a. 0% is 0a so it doesn’t run. Lol.

There seems to be a hardware version that uses first box for low voltage and second box for high voltage, but that’s totally useless compared to before able to set RPM on box 1 and Torque (current) on box 2, like mine. This is actually one of the features that makes it better than my original controller.

If i used your settings 0, 50 and 8, i would get 0a, 10a and 22a for speed 1,2 and 3 respectively.

If your gear 1 can go fast on the road then either something is wrong or your controller is different.

Of course one difference is i have my controller set for base motor speed and you have yours set for almost 200% base motor speed. That means your 55% low gear is really over base speed.

If your speed 1 works at 0 then speed two should also work at 0.

There are so many interconnected settings that its really important to nail down the variable so that other settings are more predictable.

 

[BareKuda]

i will try to test more to see and keeping update.

I just got back from a extensive testing run, and found a lot of interesting things and one important thing.

First the important thing. That box that the Chinese APP said is KP not Flux Weakening definitely has an effect. The file they sent with my controller had these settings:


So i set my KP for 9000 and then it let me set KI down to 400. I kept bouncing between these two and ended up with KI at 500 and KP at 7000. This significantly reduced the resonant at 100 RPM. If i drive normal ill pass through it so fast its not noticeable. And even if i hunt for that speed and stay exactly at it, the peak resonance is not so bad.

Its a good thing because the resonance was also present during regen while decelerating through that. Now regen is pretty smooth.

Now for interesting things.
1. My busbar current doesn't seem to be used for anything. So far everything is based on sports mode current. My Low and mid % amps are based on sports mode current, so it regen,

2. My High gear box 2 doesnt seem to do anything from 0, 10, 20, 100. All settings i get sport mode current limit.

3. Regen % change only takes effect after controller reboot.

4. The other 3 boxes under 3-speed next to KP didn't seem to have any effect that i can find so i put them back to 0.

5. If i try to set torque increase above at 300+, it doesn't take and next reboot it shows a low value like 44. Its now set at
0
0
250
250


Now my speed and current settings are:
Low 50% ( 20km/h @ 6a) and current limit is 40% (12 a, 2x cruise amps)
Mid 75% (30 km/k @ 12a) and current limit is 80% (24 a, 2x cruise amps)
High 100% (40 km/h 24a) and the current limit is the sport mode setting of 30a.