Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers

[MyMoped]

Hi guys,
I have the following issue with my Votol EM-100 controller. Have screened most of this thread but nobody have had the exact issue.

I have upgraded my moped with a brand new 3kW QS motor, new Votol EM controller and a DIY 60 V 45 AH battery.

The current obtained speed (unloaded) is only 10 km/h. The reason being that the controller has been configured by QS motor company for 72 V battery.

I have tried to change the battery voltage to 60 V inside the software. However I cannot param write the change. Upon pressing the param write button the software says that the change is made successfully. But that's not true when I restart the system.

It appears that Model number and Battery voltage (red square in photo) in the drop-down menus can be changed. Anything else (i.e. overvoltage, undervoltage etc) refuse to change when controller is restarted.

Anybody have had a similar issue and a possible solution?

 

[Paulflieg]

In my debugging software, the settings for over/under/soft under voltage, automatic are changed. If I change the battery voltage. (without saving)

 

[MyMoped]

In my debugging software, the settings for over/under/soft under voltage, automatic are changed. If I change the battery voltage. (without saving)

Thanks for reply.

It's the same with mine. When I change the battery voltage, to 60 V, the parameters below (overvoltage, etc) do automatically change, similar to your screenshot, but when I param write and restart the controller, the battery voltage would show 60 V but the parameters below would go to old values corresponding to 72 battery voltage.

 

[Paulflieg]

What about the secure boot setting? I remember a warning about this? Never turned it on. And in the calibration mode, the setting "brand:", page 1. For me, common! Maybe a preset that's different for you?

 

[MyMoped]

What about the secure boot setting? I remember a warning about this? Never turned it on. And in the calibration mode, the setting "brand:", page 1. For me, common! Maybe a preset that's different for you?

Secure Boot is unchecked. Not sure where the calibration mode is and how to activate it. Is it the one to the right side? Increasing the throttle under remote control gives no response.

Also can't find the setting "brand" that you mention?

 

[Paulflieg]

My debugging software is different I see (earlier!?) There are probably differences!
Calibration mode:
English keyboard
Delete error_count and leave cursur there
hold shift
double click ^

 

[Plitka64]

hi, does anyone have any idea what setting is configured wrong? The problem is the following - in the 1-2-3 speed mode, the maximum speed corresponds to the setting, but there is no power - the maximum current in the ant application is 50A, it no longer gives, the sport mode is now working fine and allows you to go to its fullest.
Votol em150s qs138 v3.

 

[Plitka64]

 

[BareKuda]

hi, does anyone have any idea what setting is configured wrong? The problem is the following - in the 1-2-3 speed mode, the maximum speed corresponds to the setting, but there is no power - the maximum current in the ant application is 50A, it no longer gives, the sport mode is now working fine and allows you to go to its fullest.
Votol em150s qs138 v3.

So you are saying in sports mode it goes up to the 250a you have your 150a controller set at?

If it works in sports mode but not in speed 1-2-3 try changing all 6 of the boxes for 1-2-3 to:
100 100
100 100
100 100

Your settings, although very strange, should work at 20% speed 100% torque, however it will only last a second to get you up to 10 mph. But set to 100% it should give you full speed and plenty of amps.

Some Votol it seems the second column is the 3-speeds is useless and follows a gentle acceleration ramp up. You can test it by settinf speed 1 to 100/100 and then set to 100/20 and see if torque changes.

 

[Plitka64]

hi, does anyone have any idea what setting is configured wrong? The problem is the following - in the 1-2-3 speed mode, the maximum speed corresponds to the setting, but there is no power - the maximum current in the ant application is 50A, it no longer gives, the sport mode is now working fine and allows you to go to its fullest.
Votol em150s qs138 v3.

So you are saying in sports mode it goes up to the 250a you have your 150a controller set at?

If it works in sports mode but not in speed 1-2-3 try changing all 6 of the boxes for 1-2-3 to:
100 100
100 100
100 100

Your settings, although very strange, should work at 20% speed 100% torque, however it will only last a second to get you up to 10 mph. But set to 100% it should give you full speed and plenty of amps.

Some Votol it seems the second column is the 3-speeds is useless and follows a gentle acceleration ramp up. You can test it by settinf speed 1 to 100/100 and then set to 100/20 and see if torque changes.

This is em150s, according to 1 table its maximum current is 220a, according to the second 250a. In sport mode, acceleration is 0-60 kmh 3.3s. it’s bad that I don’t have the habit of maintaining good settings, since before that I drove 3000 km and everything worked correctly, but with the onset of cold weather, it was necessary to turn off the regenerative brake. And at the same time, my hands are reaching out to change something else)
who cares, reduction 13 \ 56, the maximum speed in sport mode is about 100 km / h

 

[BareKuda]

hi, does anyone have any idea what setting is configured wrong? The problem is the following - in the 1-2-3 speed mode, the maximum speed corresponds to the setting, but there is no power - the maximum current in the ant application is 50A, it no longer gives, the sport mode is now working fine and allows you to go to its fullest.
Votol em150s qs138 v3.

So you are saying in sports mode it goes up to the 250a you have your 150a controller set at?

If it works in sports mode but not in speed 1-2-3 try changing all 6 of the boxes for 1-2-3 to:
100 100
100 100
100 100

Your settings, although very strange, should work at 20% speed 100% torque, however it will only last a second to get you up to 10 mph. But set to 100% it should give you full speed and plenty of amps.

Some Votol it seems the second column is the 3-speeds is useless and follows a gentle acceleration ramp up. You can test it by settinf speed 1 to 100/100 and then set to 100/20 and see if torque changes.

This is em150s, according to 1 table its maximum current is 220a, according to the second 250a. In sport mode, acceleration is 0-60 kmh 3.3s. it’s bad that I don’t have the habit of maintaining good settings, since before that I drove 3000 km and everything worked correctly, but with the onset of cold weather, it was necessary to turn off the regenerative brake. And at the same time, my hands are reaching out to change something else)
who cares, reduction 13 \ 56, the maximum speed in sport mode is about 100 km / h

https://www.qsmotor.com/product/votol-controller-em-150/

The real rating is 150, which is why its called the EM-150. You can push it harder but sometimes it causes problems. Many people try to try to fool the Votol by entering wrong pole pairs and or messing with the current calibration and it just make the controller work worse.

But if you always save your last known good settings, you will never have a problem, you can revert back.

Im glad i don’t live where ice can form outward of a freezer. Lol. Hopefully someone will make an affordable BMS/CONTROLLER/DISPLAY that can talk to each other and if its too cold to charge the BMS tells the controller not to regen.

I think Nucular is the closest to such a system but its a little expensive and still under development

 

[Plitka64]

https://www.qsmotor.com/product/votol-controller-em-150/

The real rating is 150, which is why its called the EM-150. You can push it harder but sometimes it causes problems. Many people try to try to fool the Votol by entering wrong pole pairs and or messing with the current calibration and it just make the controller work worse.

But if you always save your last known good settings, you will never have a problem, you can revert back.

Im glad i don’t live where ice can form outward of a freezer. Lol. Hopefully someone will make an affordable BMS/CONTROLLER/DISPLAY that can talk to each other and if its too cold to charge the BMS tells the controller not to regen.

I think Nucular is the closest to such a system but its a little expensive and still under development

As far as I know there are 3 versions of em-150,150s,150sp. They are all slightly different.

 

[Oclipper]

https://www.qsmotor.com/product/votol-controller-em-150/

The real rating is 150, which is why its called the EM-150. You can push it harder but sometimes it causes problems. Many people try to try to fool the Votol by entering wrong pole pairs and or messing with the current calibration and it just make the controller work worse.

But if you always save your last known good settings, you will never have a problem, you can revert back.

Im glad i don’t live where ice can form outward of a freezer. Lol. Hopefully someone will make an affordable BMS/CONTROLLER/DISPLAY that can talk to each other and if its too cold to charge the BMS tells the controller not to regen.

I think Nucular is the closest to such a system but its a little expensive and still under development

As far as I know there are 3 versions of em-150,150s,150sp. They are all slightly different.

Please, can you tell the differences of each version? As far as I know every Votol on Aliexpress are now "s" version. But there are Lande Votol (transparent cover) that seems to be the top pick for Asian guys on YT/Facebook groups etc.

I have Votol em50 (7280s). It has auto learning from factory and came with different function harness (pins are the same)

 

[Plitka64]

https://www.qsmotor.com/product/votol-controller-em-150/

The real rating is 150, which is why its called the EM-150. You can push it harder but sometimes it causes problems. Many people try to try to fool the Votol by entering wrong pole pairs and or messing with the current calibration and it just make the controller work worse.

But if you always save your last known good settings, you will never have a problem, you can revert back.

Im glad i don’t live where ice can form outward of a freezer. Lol. Hopefully someone will make an affordable BMS/CONTROLLER/DISPLAY that can talk to each other and if its too cold to charge the BMS tells the controller not to regen.

I think Nucular is the closest to such a system but its a little expensive and still under development

As far as I know there are 3 versions of em-150,150s,150sp. They are all slightly different.

Please, can you tell the differences of each version? As far as I know every Votol on Aliexpress are now "s" version. But there are Lande Votol (transparent cover) that seems to be the top pick for Asian guys on YT/Facebook groups etc.

I have Votol em50 (7280s). It has auto learning from factory and came with different function harness (pins are the same)

In China, where I bought a motorcycle on the domestic market, they only sell em150-150A (470A), and em150s-180A (490A phase current). The em150sp version, as I understand it, is also em150, only with a can-bus.

 

[delbidotbiz]

Why hdc become rpm limit
My friend said long time ago hdc is the limit when down hill
He can set at 30kmh and active when down hill and his top speed can reach 70kmh at flat road
My votol when I set at 30kmh, the top speed is 30kmh

 

[Oclipper]

Hello Guys,

Is there compatibility issues with Votol controllers and Hub QS motors?

In a Gadiro e125, it uses Votol EM50 + Yuma Motor 3000w, its performance is very good like 100cc motorcycle.

But I have a Hub QS motor (3000w, 17", torque winding, 45h, iron core, 30 pole pairs). The performance is VERY POOR, like a 30cc motorcycle, super sluggish acceleration and almost NO TORQUE. Of course I did every settings, correct hall shift (also tried 180, 120, 90, 60, 0 -60, -90, -120, -180), pole pairs, field weakening settings, change hall/phass wires, field weakening calibration etc.

Also tested with 2 different Votol em50 controllers (one votol em50s and another votol 7280s transparent cover).

I fear there is compatibility issues and have the same issue with votol em150. The motor works well on other brand controllers.

I just recently convert a KTM Duke 200 to electric,first I use my existing QS hub 3000w v3 with 24 poles, EM100s.
can you double check the version of your hub QS 3000w? and also if you have tried the backup Hall sensor?
my bike is now running very well with YM300W 17" the reason why I swap to Yumar because of the price and my older qs is onlt 13".

I have experiecned with my QS when I was trying to swithc the cable in the Software by putting the checkmark on both, then I drove like 20-30cc like you mentioned.

UPDATE about the issue I had using votol em50 with QS 3000w.

As I stated, it was sluggish performance no matter what parameters I change, I even tried another votol em50 and problem remained.

Then I bought Votol em150 and set the exactly the same config (60A busbar current @72v battery). The result was totally different, good acceleration under load.

So why votol em50 works on a 3000w YUMA and not on 3000w QS hub motor? The fact is that the supposed "3000w" yuma motor from Gadiro e125 is in fact 2000w!! It can be seen by the thinner phase wires, its written 3000w in the motor but serial contains "2000" what suggests its true 2000w. Even a YUMA seller from Alibaba told me by its serial number that motor should not be 3000w.

Anyways, if its true that pseudo 3000w is really 3000w, it should be the poorest version. Very thin phase wires and not even spare hall connector. Friend of mine tested that motor with votol em100 @100A then motor burnt within flat 10km range test

 

[j bjork]

Sounds like the qs motor has higher kv, it needs more phase amps for the same torque.

The em 150 is capable of a lot more phase amps than the em 50.
The other motor will saturate and heat up with "too much" phase amps, like your friend found out.

 

[Oclipper]

Sounds like the qs motor has higher kv, it needs more phase amps for the same torque.

The em 150 is capable of a lot more phase amps than the em 50.
The other motor will saturate and heat up with "too much" phase amps, like your friend found out.

Thanks for the comment.

The 3000w QS motor that didnt match with votol em50 has thicker phase wires and is suposed to be winded for torque.

The another motor, that I suspect its fake "3000w" yuma motor, has indeed good perform with @60A busbar current.

In your experience, is it normal bigger motors to be out of torque with weaker controller?

I thought if motor is winded for torque, it would have good torque in that case

 

[j bjork]

The 3000w QS motor that didnt match with votol em50 has thicker phase wires and is suposed to be winded for torque.

The another motor, that I suspect its fake "3000w" yuma motor, has indeed good perform with @60A busbar current.

In your experience, is it normal bigger motors to be out of torque with weaker controller?

I thought if motor is winded for torque, it would have good torque in that case

The "busbar" current is battery current, and (within reasonable limits) dosent have effect until you reach some rpm.
If set to a limiting value (lower than the phase amps) it will start limiting the phase amps when that value is reached.

What matters is the motors Kt, (torque per amp) and the controllers phase amps.
If the bigger motor has lower Kt it will output less torque at a certain phase amps.
Thicker phase wires probably means higher kv (rpm per volt) and lower Kt. Or maybe just more copper in the motor..

I think the em 150 is usually programmed for about 470 phase amp from the factory (9960 in the settings I think?)
I would guess that the em 50 is about 1/3 of that.

 

[Oclipper]

The 3000w QS motor that didnt match with votol em50 has thicker phase wires and is suposed to be winded for torque.

The another motor, that I suspect its fake "3000w" yuma motor, has indeed good perform with @60A busbar current.

In your experience, is it normal bigger motors to be out of torque with weaker controller?

I thought if motor is winded for torque, it would have good torque in that case

The "busbar" current is battery current, and (within reasonable limits) dosent have effect until you reach some rpm.
If set to a limiting value (lower than the phase amps) it will start limiting the phase amps when that value is reached.

What matters is the motors Kt, (torque per amp) and the controllers phase amps.
If the bigger motor has lower Kt it will output less torque at a certain phase amps.
Thicker phase wires probably means higher kv (rpm per volt) and lower Kt. Or maybe just more copper in the motor..

I think the em 150 is usually programmed for about 470 phase amp from the factory (9960 in the settings I think?)
I would guess that the em 50 is about 1/3 of that.

Both em50 and em150 had same software settings, 60A busbar current and so.

em50 = 190A phase
em150 = 470A phase

Both were set at 60A and phase current at their maximum (i think 9000 for em50 and 9960 for em150, yes I tried 9960 on em50 and nothing noticiable happened, but Asian guys tells em35/50 has to be set 9000). But is possible controller send 470A phase with only 60A battery current drawing?

PS: I have DKD display, it shows the amp drawing and both cases it was getting 60A... but something I noticed with votol em50 voltage sag was much lower than with em150

 

[j bjork]

My best guess at why you got more voltage sag at the same amp draw is that you had max draw for longer time with the bigger controller.

Play with this calculator and you will get an idea what different battery volts, amps, phase amps, motor size, kv etc. will do:
https://ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html

 

[rostal]

Hello. We use Votol 150s and QS 3kW with reduction in EV project. Is it possible to achieve engine brake assist in such way that QS rotates with lowest RPM counter clockwise?

 

[Sulej]

Hello everyone,

I have a Sur-ron bike with stock mid drive motor, 60v70Ah battery and EM150/2 controller. Up to the point when I disconnected the battery to charge it at home, sur-ron run without problems. When I put the battery back, I noticed that battery voltage is displayed incorrectly and the wheel won't spin. It turned out to be a short cut in the rear light wire. I cut the wire and the problem with the wrong voltage disappeared. However the wheel is still not moving. In fact it moves a bit an then stops. Diagnostic software shows Hall Fault as well as Motor Hall faul. I have disconnected pretty much everything also checked another motor, but the fault is still there (it appears when I move the throttle). Battery is fine. Since my bike run fine before I suspect that the root cause is related to the wiring (short cut, weak connection, etc) but I don't have any more ideas how to troubleshoot it. There are many experienced people in this group so I hope that some of you may help me and advise what I can do to troubleshoot the problem.

 

[Paulflieg]

Is the

 

[Sulej]

Is the

@Paulflieg I think your response wasn't uploaded correctly