Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers
- Thread starter Stefanj.
- Start date
This is what I thought therefore I checked the throttle voltage directly on the controller connector pins. Everything was in order - start voltage was around 0.8 then it went up gradually to around 4.5v. I also connected a different throttle. I can imagine that there is still something wrong with the throttle wire (a shortcut or a loose pin) but I'm running in circles and I'm not sure how to troubleshoot this issue further :?
Yes, The battery settings are little odd but it worked before. As far as I know it doesn't matter if you choose 72v or 60v if you modify other parameters later. Temperature sensor is disconnected (cable was cut long ago) maybe that is why the temperature readings are strange . I checked the throttle voltage and it is 5v
AviatorTrainman
100 mW
Hey all, been following this thread for a while as I work towards an electric conversion of a Kawasaki G3. Controller is a votol em150sp and motor is a QS 3000 watt 138H mid drive.
In any case, I had it running last night and it was a blast. I spent today installing a key switch, which shouldn’t affect anything, but now the motor and controller behave exactly the same whether the hall sensor connector is plugged in or not - a high pitched whining when the throttle is turned and no movement unless I turn the wheel by hand, in which case it has a few positions it likes to move to before stalling.
I don’t have an oscilloscope, but probing the hall sensors with a multimeter reveals that one line is constant at 3.39 volts and the others both at zero, regardless of motor position or throttle position. Is this a mechanical issue with the encoder somehow? I have been trying to take the side cover off with little success due to the rubbery sealant. What should be my next troubleshooting steps? I plan to connect the controller to my computer and check the RPM in software once my friend gets back home with the laptop. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Edit: let me know if this is outside the purview of this thread, or if I should post somewhere else. I don’t have the funds to simply buy a new motor and test that, so I’m hoping this is something repairable.
In any case, I had it running last night and it was a blast. I spent today installing a key switch, which shouldn’t affect anything, but now the motor and controller behave exactly the same whether the hall sensor connector is plugged in or not - a high pitched whining when the throttle is turned and no movement unless I turn the wheel by hand, in which case it has a few positions it likes to move to before stalling.
I don’t have an oscilloscope, but probing the hall sensors with a multimeter reveals that one line is constant at 3.39 volts and the others both at zero, regardless of motor position or throttle position. Is this a mechanical issue with the encoder somehow? I have been trying to take the side cover off with little success due to the rubbery sealant. What should be my next troubleshooting steps? I plan to connect the controller to my computer and check the RPM in software once my friend gets back home with the laptop. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Edit: let me know if this is outside the purview of this thread, or if I should post somewhere else. I don’t have the funds to simply buy a new motor and test that, so I’m hoping this is something repairable.
AviatorTrainman said:
If the hall sensors do not toggle during slow manual rotor rotation between nearly ground and nearly the voltage found on the hall signal input pins of the controller without the motor connected to them, but that voltage is around 5v (without them connected), then the ocntroller is supplying the right pullup, but the halls are not responding to the magnets in the motor, which usually means they have failed and need to be replaced.
Sometimes this is from overheating, but it can take a lot to kill them (at least 70C and some are rated for twice that or more).
Overvoltage from wire damage on the motor/controlelr cable that shorts a phase wire to any of the hall wires other than ground can do this (often damaging the controller as well as the motor).
AviatorTrainman
100 mW
amberwolf said:
I guess it must be the phase short, since I have only run this motor for about 10 minutes total, and at low throttle settings, but I don’t know how it could have happened while the system was shut down. So now I need to replace the sensors. Is this a part I can buy off the shelf or do I need to contact QS? I was really hoping to have this complete by the 21st, but I assume I won’t be able to get it shipped by then.
If there is a phase short to a hall wire, you'll need to find and fix that before doing anything else, or else it is going to keep destroying things every time it happens.
Typically these are at the wire exit out of the motor for hubmotors, as that is the easiest place to damage the cable that contains both phase and hall wires. Usually there is obvious outer jacket damage to the cable, but sometimes it's all internal, like at a sharp bend.
The other place it can easily happen is at the motor/controller connection point, if there is any uninsulated parts that could have touched at any time.
Other than that, it could be anywhere inside the cable from motor or controller.
If it's not intermittent, you can find it by measuring (with no battery connected) using a multimeter on Ohms from each phase wire to each hall wire; any that are shorted should be a fairly low resistance. First disconnect the motor and controller, then measure the motor's wires first as that's the more common cable to get damaged.
Typically these are at the wire exit out of the motor for hubmotors, as that is the easiest place to damage the cable that contains both phase and hall wires. Usually there is obvious outer jacket damage to the cable, but sometimes it's all internal, like at a sharp bend.
The other place it can easily happen is at the motor/controller connection point, if there is any uninsulated parts that could have touched at any time.
Other than that, it could be anywhere inside the cable from motor or controller.
If it's not intermittent, you can find it by measuring (with no battery connected) using a multimeter on Ohms from each phase wire to each hall wire; any that are shorted should be a fairly low resistance. First disconnect the motor and controller, then measure the motor's wires first as that's the more common cable to get damaged.
mgummert
1 µW
- Joined
- May 15, 2021
- Messages
- 1
Does anybody have the specs of the Alarm Connector of the EM150? In particular:
Alarm Power Input (orange)
Motor move signal (Yellow)
Alarm signal input (blue)
Any tips highly appreciated,
I am sure somebody has posted this already, but I just spent an hour and did not find the info.
Alarm Power Input (orange)
Motor move signal (Yellow)
Alarm signal input (blue)
Any tips highly appreciated,
I am sure somebody has posted this already, but I just spent an hour and did not find the info.
Hi everyone.
I'm having some issues with my EM-150 controller; the power delivery is complexly unpredictable. Im using a shut power meter (200a max reading) to monitor the battery power; and an app to monitor controller and motor temp.
From a standstill; giving full throttle sometimes gives:
1) almost immediately get >200a busbar and rocket like performance.
2) gradual ramp up of current from about 40 increasing by about 5a/sec. The rate of rise of amps is also inconsistent
When already moving; (might happen randomly but is obvious when going up a hill or higher speed like 80kmph), the controller will limit power to the point where I apply full throttle but it still might only be giving roughly 50a, then reduce by about 1a per sec. If I stop the bike and wait a few seconds, the problem is also reset so I have full power again. I have several short hills near where I live that I cant make it up if this happens.
In summary, power delivery isn't predictable or repeatable and sometimes is much lower than in settings and other times is more.
I have tested the under voltage treatment; which limits the amps to prevent voltage below the set level. The above behaviour feels similar in that it limits the amps but the voltage isn't held constant.
Temperature doesn't have any impact as this happens when its cold or warm.
SOC doesn't impact on it.
Hardware:
65ah lithium 72v battery; >200A burst
EM-150 controller
WXYMmotor hub 13" 40H with KTY84-130 thermistor
Controller and motor bought from WXY; and they sent the controller pre-configured.
Settings screens are attached (Page one shows Em-100, it doesn't save when I change to EM-150)
I'm having some issues with my EM-150 controller; the power delivery is complexly unpredictable. Im using a shut power meter (200a max reading) to monitor the battery power; and an app to monitor controller and motor temp.
From a standstill; giving full throttle sometimes gives:
1) almost immediately get >200a busbar and rocket like performance.
2) gradual ramp up of current from about 40 increasing by about 5a/sec. The rate of rise of amps is also inconsistent
When already moving; (might happen randomly but is obvious when going up a hill or higher speed like 80kmph), the controller will limit power to the point where I apply full throttle but it still might only be giving roughly 50a, then reduce by about 1a per sec. If I stop the bike and wait a few seconds, the problem is also reset so I have full power again. I have several short hills near where I live that I cant make it up if this happens.
In summary, power delivery isn't predictable or repeatable and sometimes is much lower than in settings and other times is more.
I have tested the under voltage treatment; which limits the amps to prevent voltage below the set level. The above behaviour feels similar in that it limits the amps but the voltage isn't held constant.
Temperature doesn't have any impact as this happens when its cold or warm.
SOC doesn't impact on it.
Hardware:
65ah lithium 72v battery; >200A burst
EM-150 controller
WXYMmotor hub 13" 40H with KTY84-130 thermistor
Controller and motor bought from WXY; and they sent the controller pre-configured.
Settings screens are attached (Page one shows Em-100, it doesn't save when I change to EM-150)
Attachments
Hi, does anyone know how to "force" reverse a votol controller? My setup currently cant do reverse while the motor is spinning forward even if the reverse pin is already pulled to ground. It only enter reverse when the motor has already stopped spinning. On the software, i see that the R is not checked until the motor is stopped, and then when i increase throttle, it spin in reverse. Surprisingly, when when the motor is spinning in reverse, and then i let go the reverse pin, i can force it back to forward. I kinda get it that its a safety feature for motorbikes, but in my application, i need to "fight" the forward rotation. Does anyone has an idea how to achieve this? Thanks
When I climb a hill, throttle also cannot control my wheel and lead to stop and need reset the controller.
I've change all possible setting, but none can improve this. I guress controller have some hidden safe trigger for high AMP to long time. Maybe you can spam the controller to adjust the AMP cailbration value, let controller to see smaller AMP to avoid this situation.
>>When already moving; (might happen randomly but is obvious when going up a hill or higher speed like 80kmph), the controller will limit power to the point where I apply full throttle but it still might only be giving roughly 50a, then reduce by about 1a per sec. IfI stop the bike and wait a few seconds, the problem is also reset so I have full power again. I have several short hills near where I live that I cant make it up if this happens.
I've change all possible setting, but none can improve this. I guress controller have some hidden safe trigger for high AMP to long time. Maybe you can spam the controller to adjust the AMP cailbration value, let controller to see smaller AMP to avoid this situation.
>>When already moving; (might happen randomly but is obvious when going up a hill or higher speed like 80kmph), the controller will limit power to the point where I apply full throttle but it still might only be giving roughly 50a, then reduce by about 1a per sec. IfI stop the bike and wait a few seconds, the problem is also reset so I have full power again. I have several short hills near where I live that I cant make it up if this happens.
jamesbs said:
larsb
1 MW
surfacta said:
I have tried activating regen briefly before going into reverse. That worked well with a 3pos button so pos1 is forward, pos 2 activates regen and pos 3 activates reverse
fishblood said:
Are you looking for a solution to the "power reduction problem"?
For me!! (FW2.33,em150,mittel motor, 5 polpaare ) the solution is:
TC1=1000
All values for "Temperature protection" are: 100,120,130,1000,9300,9428
I don't know what it does! But it works wonderfully... For me!
I'd like to try your Android app, how do you connect it via BT? Are you using something like this https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804539648022.html ?
It does not seem to work with my Votol EM-200/2 SP (serial via USB does), not sure if there is any other one available...
(BTW, the excel sheet with the protocol decode is absolutely AMAZING!)
It does not seem to work with my Votol EM-200/2 SP (serial via USB does), not sure if there is any other one available...
(BTW, the excel sheet with the protocol decode is absolutely AMAZING!)
Any BT to serial module also can connect, like this:
https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-hc-05.html?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20230204081605&origin=y&SearchText=hc-05&spm=a2g0o.detail.1000002.0
only need config transfer rate to 9600bps
https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-hc-05.html?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20230204081605&origin=y&SearchText=hc-05&spm=a2g0o.detail.1000002.0
only need config transfer rate to 9600bps
ifonul said: