X5 Crystalyte Wheels

Nimbuzz

1 kW
Joined
Jan 5, 2007
Messages
300
Location
Stinson Beach, CA
I have a nice new 5304 rear on a 26" eyelet (Chinese) rim with the newest heavy duty C-Lyte spokes. 7 speed, 36v. The spokes loosened up a little in the first 20 miles and I've heard of broken spokes so I'm asking for maintenance advice.

Should I keep them taught -- someone said Kenny leaves them slightly loose on purpose. Is there a user-friendly system to adjust them and keep the rim true. I'm mechanical but have never had to true wheels before.

Also is there a type of high end rim and spokes that are very durable?

Thanks for any advice.
 
Get yourself a decent quality spoke key (the cheap ones tend to round off the nipples) and enjoy: http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#tensioning

I managed to pull a fairly nasty buckle out of the rear wheel on my MTB (non power assist) with a rough version of this paragraph and I didn't even take the wheel out of the bike!

Sheldon Brown said:
"Try to make your truing adjustments independent of each other. For lateral truing, spin the wheel in the stand and find the place on the rim that is farthest away from where most of the rim is. If the rim is off to the left, tighten spokes that go to the right flange and loosen those that go to the left flange. If you do the same amount of tightening and loosening, you can move the rim to the side without affecting the roundness of the wheel. For example, if the rim is off to the left, and the center of the bend is between two spokes, tighten the spoke that goes to the right flange 1/4 turn, and loosen the spoke that goes left 1/4 turn; If the center of the left bend is next to a spoke that goes to the right flange, tighten that spoke 1/4 turn, and loosen each of the two left spokes next to it 1/8 turn; If the center of the left bend is next to a spoke that goes to the left flange, loosen that spoke 1/4 turn, and tighten each of the two right spokes next to it 1/8 turn. After adjusting the worst bend to the left, find the worst bend to the right, and adjust it. Keep alternating sides. Don't try to make each bent area perfect, just make it better, then go on to the next. The wheel will gradually get truer and truer as you go."
 
I've broken two spokes that were already a bit loose. Mine rub against the motor flange if not taut, later breaking at that point.
 
I've had to tighten mine many times. I'd say at least 6 times. But now after a year I haven't had to tighten them in a while. I think its finally "taken a set" now and won't require so much adjusting. My spokes look heavy guage (at least bigger then normal spokes) and "bend" around each other so maybe this is the reason it takes awhile before they quit stretching. Mine's a 408 though.
 
Yep.. 12 gauge spokes are THICK...

The thread pitch on them is fairly coarse as well.. so a 1/4 turn goes a long way.

Start by grabing hold of 2 crossing spokes and flex them together.. find the loosest spoke on the wheel and tighten a half turn.. If you have a wobble or a bad spot.. work on that first.. but go all around the wheel tightening one spoke at a time until all are evenly tight.. Dont' go overboard.. half turns at a time.

I find it helps to tape a piece of something to the fork leg/frame to gauge the rim's distance or amount off.
 
Thanks a lot guys , That'll get me started, at least.

Al
 
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