Nice photos! Some I do not think I've seen before. Are they from your failed TSDZ2 motor?
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New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"
- Thread starter larsottar
- Start date
Following on from Elinx, to me the Bafang rotation sensor is just a go signal and is dependent on one's power level selection. The TSDZ2(B) is more subtle with the torque sensing especially noticeable when I was switching between a e=bike with the Bafang mid-drive and a e-bike with the TSDZ2(B) mid-drive and the extra range the TSDZ2(B) gave me. As have said earlier in this thread I have a e-bike with a 48V TSDZ2B mid-drive but the torque sensor seemed a bit limp, so I increased by 20% the Power and Torque Assist Mode values to give me the same feel as on my other e-bikes, on page 113 of this thread. Secondly as I ride full suspension e-bike I got around the TSDZ2(B)'s turning by forming a wedge from aluminum reinforced epoxy putty and forming it between the down-tube and motor casing, when curing is a solid rotation stop, did tape the down-tube and motor casing for easy removal, works for me.
No, they are all publiced on Endless. Only the picture of the 2 or 3 extra bearings I have photoshopped for visualisation for someone after a question here.
I remembered they were publiced, but searching media or attachments isn't possible on Endless.
I didn't know if this could be possible too on Xenforo 2.0 and asked Neptronix some time ago , but it wasn't prioritized
I have not opened my Tsdz2, because I have a good working Tsdz2B and my wife has a commercial ebike with Bosch now, so her old Tsdz2 is a working spare. So no hurry anymore.
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I just thought I'd post how the saga - in which @Elinx was of great help - has ended (or seems to have). I thought everything was OK, but the nest morning I set off, and after about a kilometer the noises started again. They were more localised however.
Once I got back, I found the screw holding the crank had come loose - so I re-tightened it, and in doing so, got all sorts of clicks and groans similar to the ones I'd been getting. I decided to buy a new set of pedals to help isolate the problem (in principle new pedals shouldn't have bearing problems) and sat in the car park changing the pedal and rode back with the noise..
Having already had a Tongsheng I have the luxury of having a spare crank, so I used the old one - it went on without a murmur and the screw bedded in without any strange noises. Tested it again today and all is silence, put back my old (rather better) pedals and still good.
The crank that came with the kit was not fitting properly on the spindle - a fault in manufacturing - I suspect that the vibrations from the crank caused the lock-nut to loosen, tightening it certainly focused the sound in one place.
Here's another video about adding bearings
Once I got back, I found the screw holding the crank had come loose - so I re-tightened it, and in doing so, got all sorts of clicks and groans similar to the ones I'd been getting. I decided to buy a new set of pedals to help isolate the problem (in principle new pedals shouldn't have bearing problems) and sat in the car park changing the pedal and rode back with the noise..
Having already had a Tongsheng I have the luxury of having a spare crank, so I used the old one - it went on without a murmur and the screw bedded in without any strange noises. Tested it again today and all is silence, put back my old (rather better) pedals and still good.
The crank that came with the kit was not fitting properly on the spindle - a fault in manufacturing - I suspect that the vibrations from the crank caused the lock-nut to loosen, tightening it certainly focused the sound in one place.
Here's another video about adding bearings
With square tapered spindles you can't trust on just fastening the bolts. I give the crank a few taps with a plastic hammer (with a flat steel hammer holding the other side of the shaft) before tightening the bolts.
About that video from 2023, I know for sure he made it by use of my "HowTo" from 2021 (without video), because of mentioning the specific size of the two rubber rings, which I happened to find at that time in my sparebox.
You can use a couple of O-rings too, as long they have a tightfit on the spindle, which is less than 15mm.
FYI..... I saw this mod as a solution against spindle breaking of the groove for the first time in 2020 in Germany.
As an additional effect, it also appeared to reduce the wobbling.
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That's the video I was trying to find, I have fitted the extra bearing in the spider, bearings are cheap enough for a straight forward upgrade. I have a torque wrench so just tighten the crank bolts up to the correct setting along with the retaining nut for the mid-drive with my tightening adapter on the torque wrench.
I bought a Tsdz2B kit from Varstrom end of 2025 as a replacement in case my Tsdz2 (4500 miles running fine) bites the dust.
Have you run your Tsdz2B w/o OSF before switching to OSF? If so, how do they compare?
No, from day one OSF as with my first Tsdz2 in 2019 too , imho Chinese warranty is of little value and I made a backup of the stock FW, before flashing OSF, if something did go wrong.
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The box end sheet metal spanner that comes with the kit requires removing the drive side crank arm which is another step that is a pain and not necessary IMO. I use a flat blade #2 screwdriver + a mallet to impact the locknut tight, followed with Blue Loctite and a Bic Wite-Out marker. You'll have to do it by feel as to how tight to impact the locknut. Mine has not come loose with this method (Bic Wite-Out tells me if it has loosened with a glance).
docw009
🏍️ Giga poster
I still think my TSDZ2 w/o OSF sucks. I've put the old firmware back to confirm. Didn't seem to work at lower assist levels. On my wife's bike, the stock TSDZ2B ran better, but I knew she wouldn't ride it. She didn't like it with OSF until I put it in cadence model.
It's simple for me to go back and retest, but I have an aversion to plugging PC's into those Julet and Higo connectors. Pins bend too easily. Last Spring, I fried my Bafang BBS02B because of bent display pins putting battery power into the comm port.
Those connectors are tight and difficult to mate/ un-mate. I find heating it up with a hair dryer to soften the rubber and also lube with a birthday candle (before mating) helps a lot.
I use a cheap crankpuller, which made it easy
I have one but it is not needed with the impact method. The less you disturb the crank taper the better.
I found it the other way round with the OSF on my TSDZ2 and TSDZ2B using the hybrid option it totally changed the feel, better range and totally changed the rideabilty, this was on the 36V versions which are more responsive now than my 48V versions, but still working on them. I am still using an early version of the OSF (20.1C2-2) which doe's the job for me.
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docw009
🏍️ Giga poster
Misread the "w/o", I'm old not in with this new "fangled" shorthand
, anyway bent pins, have the tea-shirt, just this week had to straight one trying to be clever and reconnect the plug and socket without cutting a couple of cable ties, plus being long sighted cannot really see where I am sticking it, was too lazy to get my glasses.What model Bosch ebike and how is the torque assist performance compared to your Tsdz2B?
Cube Touring Hybrid Pro 800,
I have a very good feeling with it. Only thing is the weight in comparision with the diy Tsdz2 build. But riding experience is on par. With Flow app. it should possible to config assist settings, but not yet tried.
I have a very good feeling with it. Only thing is the weight in comparision with the diy Tsdz2 build. But riding experience is on par. With Flow app. it should possible to config assist settings, but not yet tried.
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It's one of these games again or horses for courses, in my case I always gone for a lightweight full suspension builds which with the battery weighs in at around 18 kgs which giving me a 30 mile range. My latest build is a hard-tail for riding on the the road, park paths and tow-paths etc but it doe's have a similar size battery to the Cube, I assume it would have a 45 mile range but have not put it to the test yet but it still comes in around the 20 kgs against the 29 kgs for the Cube.
skestans
⚡ Regular
Hi all, considering less teeth on my chainring (currently have the stock TSDZ2 42T but can’t go past gear 6 out of 9 as it’s too hard). I have 29” wheels and a 12–36T 9 speed cassette.
Since one screw is seized I can’t reuse the spider anyway, I’m thinking to get a 104 BCD spider instead to have a more “standard” setup.
Should I go for 36T? Would that be enough to go past 6th gear? And how to pick the right chainring regarding screw clearance with the TSDZ2’s body/covers and chain line?
Since one screw is seized I can’t reuse the spider anyway, I’m thinking to get a 104 BCD spider instead to have a more “standard” setup.
Should I go for 36T? Would that be enough to go past 6th gear? And how to pick the right chainring regarding screw clearance with the TSDZ2’s body/covers and chain line?
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Yes, have been thro' this game myself, I have always kept to the standard 42t chain-wheel, and have used a 9 speed 11t - 46t cassette on my 29er and I can get across all the gears without losing the chain on the 46t sprocket. Problem is on my other e-bikes it down to how far one has to offset the mid-drive out to clear the frame, a couple of them there is only 0.5mm - 1.0mm clearance between the frame and the mid-drive casing or the frame to chain-wheel clearance, still have a spider adapter, a Bucklos 36t narrow wide chain-wheel along with chain-wheel spacers to try myself. I only say it could also help that I use Sram PC 951 9 - speed chains which seem to have enough to side-way movement across the gears not to drop off the chain-wheel but just my opinion. I have always used a 9 speed setup with cassettes being loaded with 11t combined with 40t to 46t sprockets. All this comes down to the chain side clearance between the mid-drive casing and / or the chain-ring, some of mine have been on the close side to the point where I have made small technical adjustments to the frames.
Attachments
I fitted a steel 34T smaller chainring on the motor but it pushed out the chainline a further 5 mm so I had to rework the gear cluster to get reliable lower gears for climbing the local hills and narrow mountain bike tracks as explained below.
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Very good video, on my mullet e-bike I can use a 42t bottom gear on the 9 speed cassette to climb a 45 deg grass bank without dropping the chain, as before the start point is how the BB area has been put together and if one needs spacers or not for the mid-drive. But I usually kill the first 3 sprocket so have 3 or 9 speed cassettes and I can break if I need to build a custom cassette.
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