TSDZ2 OSF for all displays, VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18, LCD3, 860C-850C-SW102.

The causes of option byte corruption are unknown.
That it gets corrupted while using the bike is news.
It happened to me 2 times (out of hundreds), during flashing, when the options byte file was also flashed, then this function was removed and it hasn't happened to me anymore.

Now at each start-up only the value of the third byte is checked, if different from 20 it is written and saved, so OSF changes the value only once.
If instead you flash option byte with STVP and the third byte already set to 20, OSF will not make any changes.
 
Hey to all involved in this - firstly thank you - so awesome to have these resources!

Can i check that the new C.6-beta install process for MacOS is the same as the wiki?

i literally have close to zero computer knowledge, so apologies in advance - but i have managed to do everything to enable me to launch the configurator with the help of chatgpt and compile a .ini file into the experimental settings folder. However, there isn't an src/controller subdirectory to run the make command on.

I can see the makefile in the src folder (so no controller folder) - so ran the make command on this subdirectory which worked (after changing objcopy in the makefil to gobjcopy - as this is the brew command on macs i think) and it compiled a 'main' file but it is a main.hex file.

I can see the files from the C.2 does still have the src/controller subdirectory - so guess it's changed?
 
Yes the common and controller folders have been deleted, all the files are in the src folder.
The wiki needs to be updated.
With the latest version it should compile and flash automatically just by clicking Compile&Flash.
However, it is necessary to install xterm, it works with Linux.
Maybe also with MacOS, but I don't know it and I don't have the possibility to try.
 
Asking a daft question, using a VLCD5 TSDZ2 combo with OSF, assuming I have the legal power and speed option programed, how do I switch it on and off, said it's a daft question, having a blocked brain moment. Many thanks.
 
dgc said:
....VLCD5 TSDZ2 combo with OSF, .....how do I switch it on and off,....
Click to expand...
Level 1: "Push light on, push light off" to toggle "streetmode"

But this only does work if you have enabled "set parameters" by default
If not ....
To toggle "set parameters",
Level 0: "Push light on, push light off"
 
Last edited:
Hi everyone,
I was hoping someone could help me clear up a doubt that I’ve been trying to resolve for days. I bought a TSDZ2B 36V 250W 42T motor two weeks ago, and after reading both in this group and various specialized forums, I haven't found a clear answer regarding the compatibility of the OSF (Open Source Firmware) with this motor.

In some cases, it seems the installation works, but in other cases, there is a distinction made between different versions of the controller, suggesting that there are two versions of the controller for the same motor (TSDZ2B), with one being compatible and the other not. Does anyone know if this is true? And if so, how can I be sure which controller I have?

Any clarification would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help!
 
There are two versions of the controller, one (V1) which is programmable and the other (V2) which is not. The question is where did you buy your motor from? From memory only Enerprof Germany sell TSDZ2(B) with the V2 controller but I may be corrected. It is suggested to be a better controller with better software, but restricted to 25km/h and not flashable with OSF. I did make this mistake once, but as I am have used these motors a lot I just brought a controller cheap from Aliexpress and swapped it out. Now I have spare controllers which I have plugged onto the programing adapter and tested with my laptop.
 
ahagge said:
Thanks - that's what I was hoping to hear! Do you have plans to manage the EEPROM structure changes, so that users are notified when it happens (eiter on-display, in release notes, or with a major version bump)? It would be good for us to know when we have to check everything vs when we can be confident that if we install an update, that we can leave the settings alone.
Click to expand...
I want to thank you and all those involved in doing this work on the OSF. Its a great service to those of us interested.
I wish I had the computer skills to flash my controller and ask..is there anyone in australia to your knowledge who can help me out with it ? I'm happy to pay for their time.
Thankyou again for your hard and persistent work. Rupert, Whatsapp +61403616512
mbrusa said:
The assistance parameters of the hybrid mode are the same used in the two modes, torque and power, combined with the same level.
To decrease the low cadence assistance you have to decrease the torque assist values.
Try power assist with startup boost enabled, the assistance adjustment with the two startup boost parameters is finer.
Click to expand...
I want to thank you and all those involved in doing this work on the OSF. Its a great service to those of us interested. Much appreciated.
I wish I had the computer skills to flash my controller and ask..is there anyone in australia to your knowledge who can help me out with it ? I'm happy to pay for their time.
Thankyou again for your hard and persistent work. Rupert, Whatsapp +61403616512
 
massimo07 said:
.... how can I be sure which controller I have?
Click to expand...
You can only be sure after buying, by measuring the Voltage on the speed input connector.
If you measure 5V it will be flashable.

As @dgc did clarify it isn't the end of the world if it isn't possible to flash OSF.
Just swap the controller.
 

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dgc said:
Ci sono due versioni del controller, una (V1) che è programmabile e l'altra (V2) che non lo è. La domanda è: dove hai acquistato il tuo motore? Da quanto ricordo, solo Enerprof Germany vende TSDZ2(B) con il controller V2, ma potrei sbagliarmi. Si suggerisce che sia un controller migliore con un software migliore, ma limitato a 25 km/h e non flashabile con OSF. Ho fatto questo errore una volta, ma poiché ho usato molto questi motori, ho semplicemente comprato un controller economico da Aliexpress e l'ho sostituito. Ora ho dei controller di riserva che ho collegato all'adattatore di programmazione e testato con il mio laptop.
Click to expand...
Grazie
 
OSF version v20.1C.5-860C

I have tried two TSDZ2B motors (= two different controllers)

I want the lights to be on all the time except quick flashing when braking (2 or 6). Quick flashing works when braking.

The best way for the lights to work under braking would be for only the rear light to brighten, but this is surely impossible, so we go with flashing lights when braking.

Problem is: All modes which should keep lights on (0,2,5 and 6), lights start slowly flashing (about 3 seconds on and then off and back on 3 seconds and off, and so on). Flashing starts sometimes after 3 minutes, sometimes after 6 minutes, sometimes after 10 minutes after powering display. But slow flashing starts at some point.

It’s dangerous when you drive dark road and suddenly you can’t see anything when lights goes off. Even though it's a short time, your eyes don't have time to get used to the light coming back on and sometimes a lot can happen in a short time.
 
Well, I've never tried the light modes that require the use of brakes, but there are certainly many people who use mode 0 without any problems, including me.
What you're seeing can't depend on the software, you say you tried with two different motors.
Have you tried with different types of lights?
I'll make a hypothesis, the current absorbed by the lights (LEDs) is close to the maximum of the controller, when the LED heats up the current increases and exceeds the maximum, the controller goes into protection and interrupts the output.
When the LED cools down, it starts again from the beginning.
I repeat, it's a hypothesis to be verified, but it has a logical basis.
Regarding the possibility of making only the rear lights flash, with the software it is not possible because there is only one output.
But I know that there are lights for use with dynamos, even front ones, that have a charge reserve. They remain on for a few minutes after being turned off.
So during the flashing they would always remain on, it could be a solution.
 
mbrusa said:
Well, I've never tried the light modes that require the use of brakes, but there are certainly many people who use mode 0 without any problems, including me.
What you're seeing can't depend on the software, you say you tried with two different motors.
Have you tried with different types of lights?
I'll make a hypothesis, the current absorbed by the lights (LEDs) is close to the maximum of the controller, when the LED heats up the current increases and exceeds the maximum, the controller goes into protection and interrupts the output.
When the LED cools down, it starts again from the beginning.
I repeat, it's a hypothesis to be verified, but it has a logical basis.
Regarding the possibility of making only the rear lights flash, with the software it is not possible because there is only one output.
But I know that there are lights for use with dynamos, even front ones, that have a charge reserve. They remain on for a few minutes after being turned off.
So during the flashing they would always remain on, it could be a solution.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your thoughts.

I have only one light, this one:
E-BIKE POWER HB STVZO E550

If I understand correct it needs 8 W current. Is that too much for TSDZ controller?
Dynamo is out of question, those are too expensive. Here is one example.

SON 28 12 6-Bolt Disc Hub Dynamo
And it requires the rim to be reinstalled.

Can I ask what kind of light you have?
 
 
 
dameri said:
Thanks for your thoughts.

I have only one light, this one:
E-BIKE POWER HB STVZO E550

If I understand correct it needs 8 W current. Is that too much for TSDZ controller?
Dynamo is out of question, those are too expensive. Here is one example.

SON 28 12 6-Bolt Disc Hub Dynamo
And it requires the rim to be reinstalled.

Can I ask what kind of light you have?
Click to expand...
8 W is way too much for the controller;
I think the controller is designed to provide 500mA at 6V - that is 3 Watt in total for the sum of front- and backlight consumption.
Trying to get 8W will destroy it sooner or later, I am pretty sure.
 
dameri said:
Thanks for your thoughts.

I have only one light, this one:
E-BIKE POWER HB STVZO E550

If I understand correct it needs 8 W current. Is that too much for TSDZ controller?
Dynamo is out of question, those are too expensive. Here is one example.

SON 28 12 6-Bolt Disc Hub Dynamo
And it requires the rim to be reinstalled.

Can I ask what kind of light you have?
Click to expand...
I didn't mean to have you install a dynamo, but to look for a light like those for dynamos that stay on for a few minutes when the bike stops.
But if you need a powerful light, I don't think they exist.
To continue using the one you have, you have to control it with an SSR as they have already recommended, there are less bulky ones.
Also keep in mind that the light must be powered by the battery, so you need a step-down to lower the voltage between 6 and 12 V (from the technical data of your light).
 
Thank you explaining me things. I have allready ordered SSR. I try that.
That light is enough powerful for me. It has low beam and high beam. I know there is very powerful lights with it's own battery but I like a light that is permanently mounted on the bike and it's STVZO.
 
Hello,
I'm experiencing Trips A and B reset at noon even though the both Auto Reset values are set at 4 and 20 hours, respectively. I'm running V20.1C.5-860C.

Wondering if there's a setting I'm missing or this is a known issue.

Thank you.
 
seattlesockey said:
Hello,
I'm experiencing Trips A and B reset at noon even though the both Auto Reset values are set at 4 and 20 hours, respectively. I'm running V20.1C.5-860C.

Wondering if there's a setting I'm missing or this is a known issue.

Thank you.
Click to expand...
Are you saying that the trips reset at noon with the display on?
Strange, I'll check.
The trip should reset only when the display is turned on and if the set hours have passed since the last shutdown.
I use trip A set to 12 hours, so that it resets the next day.
The only anomaly I've found is when I remove the battery for a few days.
When I put it back, the time is still correct but the trip doesn't reset. Leaving the battery always connected, obviously with the display off, no problem.
 
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