TSDZ2 OSF for all displays, VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18, LCD3, 860C-850C-SW102.

[Zipzap]

Zipzap, if the 860C is fried, why not buy a new one. Montague Paratrooper is a cool bike- 32 lb folder 26" with front suspension! How many miles do you have on it? Was it a straightforward conversion?

Hi Zambam, yes, I've had the Paratrooper for some 20 years now, converting it to TSDZ2 ebike in 2022 after a knee injury (98% recovered from, now). The TSDZ2 and a minicube 30Q 52V battery made the conversion possible, as there are not a lot of options for battery mounting on a folder. The battery is in a saddle bag under my seat (with a Thudbuster suspension seat post). That battery expired after 18 months (bad cell), so I upgraded it to a slightly larger 21700-50G battery nearly doubling my original capacity, still in a large saddlebag under the seat. The bike remains foldable, which has been great, and tips the scales at just 45 lbs. As of last night... 2200 miles on the clock (plus whatever it had before I converted it).

I have considered buying a new display, but there is another problem mentioned further upthread, that my TSDZ2 has been experiencing intermittent PAS. It will stop assisting randomly after I stop pedaling, regardless of assist level. This behavior has been increasing in frequency, and I've learned I can restore assist by impulsing some sudden torque with my legs. Very weird. Maybe a firmware issue, but I haven't changed anything since I built the bike in 2022, and this is a recent problem. Could be a partial failure of the torque sensor, a controller issue, or any number of things. It's been frustrating trying to diagnose, while I'd rather just be out riding (my day job is technical enough, as it is).

Perhaps it would be worthwhile reconverting the bike to a different motor system, such as CYC Photon, or Toseven. However, that could just be new set of problems. My partner rides a Trek Verve with Bosch system. Very clean, reliable bike, so far. That is another possibility... what to do on a gorgeous sunny afternoon here in Arizona... I think I'll go take a walk at least!

860C display is very fragile.
I have broken many of them, often for no apparent reason. It's always a good idea to have a spare. Or you can consider some other display.

Thanks for that observation, dameri. I'm surprised the display has weathered the Arizona heat and Alaska damp this long. I didn't expect the whole TSDZ2 system to run 2200 miles essentially trouble-free after reading all the horror stories of overheating, blue gears, clutches, etc.

Hmm, conundrums.

 

[mbrusa]

860C display is very fragile.
I have broken many of them, often for no apparent reason. It's always a good idea to have a spare. Or you can consider some other display.

Yes, I thought so too, now I changed my mind.
I'll tell you my experience.
Two years ago, first damaged display, "Wait TSDZ2", I had disconnected the connector without turning off the display, I thought it was due to that, replaced with a new one.
This summer I turn on the display and "Wait TSDZ2", I didn't do anything wrong, okay I had a new spare and replaced it.
Last month I got a new bike ready.
I mounted the display that I use for testing, everything worked, the next day the display didn't turn on, checked the wiring, everything was fine.
At the umpteenth connection of the connector it turned on, but only once.
This enlightened me, you want to see that the problem is in the connector.
Cut the cable, checked the continuity, two wires are missing from the connector.
Checked the other two dead displays, same situation.
So I replaced the connectors and now I have three working displays.
I have to say that during my tests, I connect/disconnect the displays dozens of times.
Even if I am careful to pull the connector and not the cable, the wires come off.

 

[marvin78]

4500km in, I feel it might be time for some maintenance and fixes/upgrades and I'm running into some issues I would love some opinions on. Also got some questions regarding OSF for stock displays on DZ41 from Enerprof, I guessed it should be fine since it's acting like a stock display but not 100% sure.

I was still using my old x3 10s derailleur, but as I was having lots of shift issues not fixed with new cable / pulley wheels ( and the thing being decade's old ) I bit the bullet and bought an l-twoo a7. I bought the set initially, as I wasn't 100% sure the issue wasn't with the shifter itself ( and I needed the rd anyway since my old Shimano xt rd won't fit larger cassettes ) and only after riding some with the L-twoo shifter I realized how much I'm used to being able to drop down using my index finger. And I realized the A7 rd and my old ml610 shifter have the same pull ratio. That part seems to be riding smooth now.

Now, I been getting a bit of a 'crunchy' sound now and then I felt, not sure where from but I felt I should grease the gears just as a precaution anyway. And, as I found my motor to be really hard to pedal without the motor on, and wasn't willing to rma it or gamble a new combined gear would solve that ( I have no reference how 'light' this should feel.. or not with another Tonshen.. my daughter's Bafang M200 rides like a normal bike when the assistance is off.. my bike feels like I'm lugging a 20kg cargo cart ). Either way, I noticed that while the bearing is sealed, there is a small gap. So I been using a non ptfe silicone spray to spray on the gear assembly, then rotate it a bit and wait to let it soak in, then spray a thick layer, rotate ect ect. It seems to be really making a difference, I can feel it's turning much smoother already.

But, I did misplace my circclip pliers which means I will have to go deeper after I buy a new one. But tbh, it almost feels like the only crunch I had was within that dual bearing gear I been lubing the heck out with silicone spray, I want to check the status of my blue gear anyway.

I was wondering if this silicone grease would be good for the blue gear later on? ->

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I also bought a DZ41 in the clearance sale at Enerprof.. without checking beforehand to be sure it would work with OSF. It should, as it acts like a stock display so I should be fine just swapping my xh18 with the DZ41?

I've had some faults/errors riding in really wet conditions, and I'm not 100% sure what the cause is yet. I just lose all assistance suddenly, I get an error message most of the times ( couple of times I couldn't see an error message.. and stupid me couldn't tell which the error code was, it's to small to read from my seating position without glasses for sure ). The only way to get rid of it, is turning the bike off and on again.

I suspect perhaps my xt60 battery connector, so I put some additional electrical tape over it. But I don't feel it's that likely, as the other time I had an issue on that part of the loop I had vastly different symptoms. I left my bike out in the snow, took the battery inside with me but didn't put a bag over the cradle. When I got back, even clearing almost all snow, some was still left when I mounted the battery. This snow melted off course, and as I result my battery indication went from 'full' to 'red/near empty' really fast. Waiting wasn't really an option, so I just drove on hoping I would make it home and I did. And it doesn't seem it caused any permanent damage, to both the motor/controller as the battery itself. But, if there was an issue within the xt60 connector, I would expect the same behavior as with the melted snow on the battery cradle ( connector ).

I also noticed I lost the little 'plug' from the cable which goes from the motor to the speed sensor, and which has the optional cable attachment option for lights ( where you get this yellow plug to keep it water tight ).. yeah I lost that one. And spray is certainly getting into that connector. I don't plan on ever using the lights through tsdz2b, I just ordered an EOS630 and as such I feel I should probably just hotglue that connector 'shut'. Or put some silicone in the plug itself, fold some electrical tape over it, slide some heatshrink over everything and use that to keep everything in place. Anyway, there is no doubt water gotten into that plug, could it cause an error which would cut out all power?

The other thing I know about, is the gear sensor tripping after slippage. And after 4.5k km without maintenance ( ... oops ) I guess this would be a possibility but a> why would this only happen in really wet weather b> wouldn't I feel the slippage just as the sensor would? The only reason weather would trip that error would be if it somehow got inside the motor and caused slippage due to water ingress.

Probably more likely my derailleur issues could trip a sensor, if the controller feels something 'slipping' it might think it's one it's internal gears even when it's my chain?

edit: btw, was thinking of grabbing +5 and ground from the display cable and pass that through my bike light so it's always charged. Shouldn't be an issue right?

edit2: well I guess I should prepare for some water ingress in the main housing. After soaking that gear in place for so long with the bike on it's side sure did pool up some lubricant inside... putting my bike upright had it coming out right on the seem between the left and right main housing. I'm off to the shop now to get me some new circclip pliers.

Edit4: darnit I still can't get past 15kmh with the motor off... I was wrong btw, it's way worse then towing my bike trailers constantly with them
I eventually will get up to speed here it's not happening. And my knees start hurting like heck within a hundred meters, it's still a nightmare if I get stranded far from home without power I will likely park the bike somewhere and get a taxi or something, charge my battery at home and take a taxi back instead of trying to pedal it home... and that sucks. I thought I bought the motor which got the 'upgrade' so you could ride it 'like normal' but compared to that bafang m200 this thing just ... sucks. Ofc, when I do have power I really like it... so I will just have to make sure to never go anywhere which might cause range issues

 

[docw009]

"darnit I still can't get past 15kmh with the motor off.."

This is the TSDZ2B with double sprag clutch in crank gear. If it were my bike, I'd remove the gear side cover, replace the pedal arm and see if the outer clutch is working. It seems like it is stuck, and you are turning the motor with the pedals.

 

[marvin78]

It does feel like that, in fact I am sure since yesterday when I was oiling the big gear with the dual clutch when I was moving the crank to get the lubricant to penetrate beter I did see the inner clutch working ( so I can backpedal normally ) but the other clutch wasn't disengaged so I was indeed turning the entire gear with the cranks. Don't know why I didn't connect the dots then and there, somehow I was thinking it was supposed to be ofc it shouldn't.

Been that way for almost 5k km I guess so it probably doesn't harm anything else. And I did get rid of that crunchy sound, seemed I got some dirt ingress through the hole for the crank and this was grinding between the gear and the cover I guess as cleaning it got rid of the crunchy sound when turning the cranks. I used some vaseline creme on the rubbery gasket, it felt rather stiff and dry and it should seal better now.

Not sure what to do about the clutch, I read some people got theirs working again by applying some new lubricant but I soaked that gear in lubricant yesterday and it didn't do anything. Maybe if I completely remove it and have better access it would be easier.

Enerprof hasn't shipped my order from a week ago, said it will go out this Monday. My new grips and bike light are showing to get delivered the 5th, though I expect them sooner as they are already cleared of customs.

I feel kind of down today, so far at least, but if I get some breeze of energy later today I will remove the gear and have a go at getting that clutch working. Don't really feel like spending another 50 bucks for replacement I already feel that I done bad because of my initial pick for the xh18 display and it's twistgrip controls now 'needing' to replace it because I want some ergonomic grips.

 

[docw009]

Possibly a piece of grit in the outer ring, People write that they take the plastic cover off the bearings to clean, at the risk of all the pieces falling out. I would leave thr covers alone and spray it with brake cleaner til it starts working like a clutch again. Then relube with oil. Of course, you need to find your circlips plier.

 

[marvin78]

Possibly a piece of grit in the outer ring, People write that they take the plastic cover off the bearings to clean, at the risk of all the pieces falling out. I would leave thr covers alone and spray it with brake cleaner til it starts working like a clutch again. Then relube with oil. Of course, you need to find your circlips plier.

Bought a new one yesterday.. damn things are 25 bucks at both hardware stores and I generically dislike any tool which comes with many attachments I always tend to loose them. But both were 'sets' with multiple attachments, I bought the one I didn't buy the last time hoping maybe I will like this one so much I take better care of where I leave it

Yeah I don't feel so good about removing the plastic seal I am worried it won't go back into place as well as it does now. These weren't made to be user serviceable afaik?

I'm almost out of brake cleaner, I do have a full dispenser of degreaser. But thinking of how much lubricant I soaked that gear with yesterday I fear that wouldn't be enough.

I don't think today is the day, still in bed ( again, do need to get up and walk the dog when he wants to go out ) and really low energy. Which isn't an issue if I'm doing routine stuff, but doing stuff which requires cognitive awareness the risks of mishaps increases exponentially. Also would feel better having everything in house, so I don't need to go out to the hardware store.. on my bike, because I don't feel like walking 25 to 30 minutes each way with an infection in my foot.

Done some additional reading in the thread and forums, lots of people saying they want to use DZ41, people getting advice to select iirc vlcd5 or 6 to get the battery indicator working correctly ( need to select the one with more then four level indicators like the other displays ). But no one every reported back, everyone just got advice and never replied again. Guess that should imply it worked and they didn't need any more advice.

 

[Zambam]

Bought a new one yesterday.. damn things are 25 bucks at both hardware stores and I generically dislike any tool which comes with many attachments I always tend to loose them.

Get a strong neodymium magnet to hold the attachments to the tool, put everything in a strong ziplock bag.

 

[marvin78]

Just got a pre-delivery notification. Even my parcels I ordered from China days after my order with Enerprof will be here sooner... and I live in the next country over from Germany lol.

I can't switch grips without the new display, so that's on the backburner still. But I can try and loosen that clutch today. And look at the possibility of wiring up a 5v from the controller to the bike light's charging port. Light supports passthrough charging, though ofc while running the limited amperage from the controller won't really charge the light but it would extent run time. And most importantly, I would be able to just leave the light on the bike and have it always charged. Might not be the best for the internal battery though. Also not sure if the light's 'reverse charge' ability would possibly interfere.

*addendum, just got my 'we send your parcel' from Enerprof. Lol... 'Jan 3rd' ... as I said I ordered parcels from China AFTER, and they will be here today. Good thing I didn't plan on buying there on the regular, I find their pricing beyond reasonable ( this was in a clearance sale.. and the displays actually are maybe the exception anyway ) as this isn't the most enjoyable experience.

 

[arkanum]

hi, maybe someone has an idea what could cause the display/motor shutting off when going steep uphill with high support, low cadence. both batteries (36V) i tried are quite old ... so it could be just be the voltage going below 29V? but it happens with a reasonable charged battery, the voltage drop shouldn´t be that much.

 

[marvin78]

Display shutting down means battery stopped supplying voltage which sounds like you indeed are hitting low voltage cutoff on your battery bms.

If you have OSF you should be able to check your voltage when riding, how low does it go before it cuts off?

 

[arkanum]

with the vlcd5 ... can i see the voltage in live view? i have set it in the configurator SOC%, so it happend shortly after starting on with ~70%.

 

[marvin78]

I have the xh18, but in configurator I have it set up that when I press light button it switches to voltage then soc then motor power then cadence ... iirc. But how it works for me is useless information for you anyway, as you can customize the behavior when flashing with the java configurator.

The SOC% you see on the display when you turn it on is just there to 'calibrate' the initial state of charge based on the detected voltage.

Having 70% state of charge for 36v at startup should be about 38.4v but since your battery might be very degraded you might still trip lvc on the bms under the load conditions you're describing. No way to know unless you monitor your voltage.

I have a 48v pack with 'china' branded cells, they are ~5k km and 18 months old ( though I don't charge every day at start, only started doing that after upgrading to OSF ) and I am seeing higher sag then when they were new. Nowhere near getting lvc, but especially going recent storms with very bad headwind where I would first see a full pack sag from 54v to 51v before bouncing back, it will now drop to 49v under that load. As I said, far from lvc but those cells are aging and I am no longer willing to risk going on 80km+ rides because I have less trust in the pack holding up when under load at low state of charge.

 

[arkanum]

ok. thanks @marvin78. i ll try to configure to display the voltage when riding steep and check if this causes the cut off ..

 

[marvin78]

I can't stand this, items I ordered from CHINA, orders I made AFTER the one with Enerprof, have arrived yesterday... and the tracking link I got from this German company still points out they haven't even gotten my parcel yet.

Absolutely disgusted, will NEVER EVER place an order there again nor would I recommend anyone from ever using that buisiness for anything. I already steered clear fpor the most part because of their high pricing, these displays being the exceptions probably because there are no others like it.. and this time they were on clearance sale...

But c'mon, China shipping me a groupset, bikelight, grips and some new valve caps.. and it arriving before a single display from my neighbouring country in the EU... this is just a complete lack of customer focus. Especially considering I had to mail them to even get a shipping link... 'we ship on Monday' ... except even NOW dhl doesn't even have a parcel...

Disgusted. Sorry just can't express this feeling in any other way.

edit: ... and today instead of my parcel from Germany I ordered before the orders from China which have all been delivered long ago... I got another email the estimated delivery has again moved to after the weekend.

You can claim 'it's still the holiday season' but all those CN sellers are using the same last mile delivery options a company from Germany has.

So, not only prices which are 'reflective' of someone who wants EU wages but that coupled with subpar service. Never again.

 

[jgs1]

the tiny dz40 from enerprof work great with osf
I spliced the cable and connected brake cut off
installed them on all my mountain bikes

 

[marvin78]

In the java configurator, which display did you select? If the dz40 works fine, dz41 will to.. tomorrow delivery, but I also got a lot to do around the house and I want to take another crack at cleaning and relubing the sprag clutch.

 

[avasad]

I start this new thread to share the new versions of TSDZ2 OSF.
In common they all have the same base firmware, v7 of mspider65 which derives from 20beta1, to which I have added other changes.

The most important news are:
Field weakening function that allows you to pedal at high cadence. Optimizations to the motor control, the torque sensor and the cadence sensor (from mspider65 - v7).
I added in "Power assist" mode, a very effective boost function, with only two parameters it is possible to modify the response curve of the assistance. Makes "Power assist" mode suitable for all uses.
I also added a new "Hybrid assist" mode, it is a combination of "Torque assist" and "Power assist" modes.
The result is excellent low cadence assistance typical of Torque mode and the extension of Power mode to high cadence.
For a complete list of new features, please read the changelog.txt files and manuals.

Version for VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18 with Java configurator:
Release Open source firmware TSDZ2-v20.1C-VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18 · emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1

Version for KT-LCD3:
Release Open source firmware TSDZ2-v20.1C-LCD3 · emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-LCD3

Version for 860C-850C color display and SW102:
Release Open source firmware TSDZ2-v20.1C-860C · emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-860C

English manuals are translated with Google translate, if someone of good will wants to check and improve them there are editable odf files. Thank you.

Have a good time

Hello, can you tell me, what is this error in the configurator program? As a result, the firmware file has not been created. How can I fix this error?

 

[marvin78]

I think I ran into that error when I had a misconfigured path variable.

I installed again using default paths and it worked. If you did already install using default path ignore me, if not give it a try.

 

[avasad]

Thank you very much. I figured it out, but I don't know how to set the default paths. Could you give me a hint?

 

[marvin78]

I just uninstalled everything and followed the wiki to the letter can't remember exactly.

But st_toolset and SDCC are both installed in c:\ ( root ), and I have a folder in c:\ called TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1-master where I downloaded the project files to.

 

[avasad]

Everything worked out. Thank you very much!

 

[Zipzap]

Yes, I thought so too, now I changed my mind.
I'll tell you my experience.
Two years ago, first damaged display, "Wait TSDZ2", I had disconnected the connector without turning off the display, I thought it was due to that, replaced with a new one.
This summer I turn on the display and "Wait TSDZ2", I didn't do anything wrong, okay I had a new spare and replaced it.
Last month I got a new bike ready.
I mounted the display that I use for testing, everything worked, the next day the display didn't turn on, checked the wiring, everything was fine.
At the umpteenth connection of the connector it turned on, but only once.
This enlightened me, you want to see that the problem is in the connector.
Cut the cable, checked the continuity, two wires are missing from the connector.
Checked the other two dead displays, same situation.
So I replaced the connectors and now I have three working displays.
I have to say that during my tests, I connect/disconnect the displays dozens of times.
Even if I am careful to pull the connector and not the cable, the wires come off.

I decided to try eliminating the display connectors by neatly splicing / soldering wires directly (after making very careful notes as to pinouts and all wire colors of course). Still no go. I believe this particular display is truly dead. Since the front glass glue was almost completely detached, a little prying allowed me to pry the glass + LCD out. No obvious burned up components on the PCB, but the welded in backup coin cell only measures 0.7 volts. Not much else of interest to observe.

So, where might the best place be to source OSF flashable display (US)? I found a listing on Amazon (US) for a Bafang 860C UART protocol display. Is that a flashable display, or do I need to look for some special new-old-stock item? Related to that, how do I tell what revision the display is so I can flash the correct display firmware?

Ebike LCD Display Control Unit Replacement 500C P850C 860C 750C-ble DPC18 Backup 5 Pin Female Plug for Bafang BBS01 BBS02 BBSHD Motor Kit(Com.Protocol UART)

Thanks in advance!

 

[amberwolf]

Remove the dead coin cell and retry it. If you're going to replace the display anyway, it's not much risk.

It's common in the computer world for a dead battery to cause improper or no operation of a motherboard--not just loss of "CMOS" / BIOS settings, but preventing POST or causing incorrect bootup, faulty system operation, etc.

Wouldn't be a surprise to find the same kind of issues with the display's MCU vs RTC vs battery.

 

[marvin78]

Screen finally came in just now... immediatly checked if it worked... DEAD ON ARRIVAL GRRRRRRR %#%@#$%@#%

And then you want to make an RMA... and when I try to open anything on enerprof.de ...


Not sure but I don't think this is on my end? Using Edge, latest update, as well as Opera...



I'll start the RMA through mail then I guess.. omg what a terrible experience enerprof has been, once and never again they can keep their friggin displays which were the only thing there not a ripoff anyway and put them up their backside.

edit: would appreciate it if someone could check for me is the SSL error is on their end or if it could still be on my end ( misconfigured date?? though I haven't touched/changed those settings ever since selecting my time zone during windows setup ).

edit2: Guess not...


Seriously... China is in reality a more reliable business partner it seem then Germany

edit3: they insist per mail they check all displays when they get their inventory in... off that means nothing to me, but I will take another look.

I am thinking that perhaps the issue is in the configuration, I can't remember the exact page where it was mentioned but these dz4x displays match vlcd5 with number of battery level indicators ( and not xh18 4 levels ) so perhaps I should try to flash it for vlcd5 and then try to run the dz41.