Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[brumbrum]

Hello! I've been working on a Lightning Rods + Adaptto Mini project and could use some advice.

After modifying some settings, the autodetect process worked perfectly from what I can tell. It was smooth and spun up to speed properly at the end stage.

The problem is that after exiting auto detect and being in ride mode, the system is still smooth and starts properly but seems to be severely limited in power output. The motor will not spin more than maybe 25% of max speed, with a power drain of around 100W.

If anyone knows what settings may affect this or has any input, I would sincerely appreciate it.

Have you adjusted the setting in your profile window in the main display menu? Eco, normal, boost settings. This Would be the thing to check first. Apologies if i have stated the blatantly obvious.

 

[madin88]

Thanks brumbrum and litespeed! I will get a single 63A breaker afterall.

thats a real bad idea if your using Max-E capeable of 160A. the 63A will break connection in a few seconds at this current.
you should use two of them in parallel.
or you do same as i do:
using a normal fuse (no breaker) together with precharge bullet connectors (Jeti 5,5mm or 8mm).

 

[Altair]

I also have only the logic switch on my bike, and I have never seen any noticeable drain on the battery, even after extended periods of non-use.
It's a switch nade for powering lights on a motorcycle. However I would advise against it because I found that it is too easy to activate accidentally when you're riding, therefore powering down the system usually at a bad moment like when I'm climbing a very steep hill and leaning forward on the handlebars. :wink:
I will replace it with a smaller one with a stiffer actuator.

 

[Abneycat]

Hello! I've been working on a Lightning Rods + Adaptto Mini project and could use some advice.

After modifying some settings, the autodetect process worked perfectly from what I can tell. It was smooth and spun up to speed properly at the end stage.

The problem is that after exiting auto detect and being in ride mode, the system is still smooth and starts properly but seems to be severely limited in power output. The motor will not spin more than maybe 25% of max speed, with a power drain of around 100W.

If anyone knows what settings may affect this or has any input, I would sincerely appreciate it.

Have you adjusted the setting in your profile window in the main display menu? Eco, normal, boost settings. This Would be the thing to check first. Apologies if i have stated the blatantly obvious.

I had adjusted the assist levels, yes. Thank you for the suggestion.

I eventually got this working 100% last night. I don't know what I missed the first time, but performing a reset and then changing the settings that helped get to that state before resulted in a fully working system.

This was my process to get the Adaptto Mini-E to work with the Lightning Rods Big Block:

1. Default wiring as per Adaptto instructions
2. Update firmware on Adaptto
3. System reset through advanced options immediately after update
4. Changed hallreverse and rotation options to get over motor not initiating autodetect properly
5. Adjusted timing to make system run smoother
6. Changed assist level settings to work well with LR big block

That seems to be all it took. I'm going to do some more fine tuning, but it's all working properly now.

This controller is super cool. It's awesome how it has built in diagnostics that are easy to use, and a huge plethora of customization.

I wanted to ask about the Wire R PHC option. I tried using this and it really smooths out the response of the motor at the low end, but it also seems to affect the response of the throttle as well. In particular, when the throttle is just barely pressed, the motor isn't moving but I see a drain of around 10-20W and can hear a faint pitch noise coming out of the motor.

Should I be concerned about that? I'm interested in using this mode due to how much it improves the initial smoothness of the start and low speed.

 

[Offroader]

Good and bad news.

I took a really high jump to flat ground and bottomed the bike out hard, not a big deal as I've done this before many times.

This time I did the jump as soon as I hit the ground the bike stopped working and I got the !HALLS! error and temp went to 32. Got home by putting the controller in Sensorless mode.

Hooked up another motor to my controller and same result, halls stuck on 111 and halls volts read 4.6.

Opened the controller up and checked the R113 resistor and am reading like 6 million ohms (should be 4 ohms). I have not yet replaced this resistor but I have in the past and have lots of spares.

The good news is that the R113 resistor is blown and I can fix that, hoping it won't be anything else beyond that.

My question to you guys is why would the R113 resistor blow with just a hard landing? The other times it was always a result of a wire short.

Assuming I replace the resistor and everything works, could anyone take a guess as to why this R113 resistor blew at the exact moment i hit the ground?

Using a Cromotor and a Max-E.

Thanks.

 

[Offroader]

One other question, since the resistor is blown and reading 6 million ohms. Would it be OK if I just solder the new resistor on top of the blown resistor?

Reason for doing this is its a pain soldering these resistors and I don't want to damage the traces, would be much easier just to solder it quickly on top of the blown one.

Since it is reading 6 million ohms, would there be any issues with this resistor acting as protection if I just solder a new 4 ohm one directly on top of the blown one?

 

[Abneycat]

Q: Has anyone had a problem with their display peeling before?

I bought my Mini-E on ebay, it had probably been sitting in the box a long time. The membrane on the front of the display is peeling up at the bottom on one side.

 

[Altair]

I find it weird that a resistor blows shorted, normally they would open.
Anyway, you can't solder another resistor on top if it because you have a short there with your blown resistor. You'll have to remove it first.

R113 is there as a protection against over-current in the Halls circuit, so my guess is that something shorted in your wiring when you landed hard. You'll have to find what it is.

 

[Altair]

Abneycat, you sure it's not just the protective sheet you're seeing peeling off? The one that should have been removed when the controller was new...

 

[Altair]

Me too I would dearly like to have a good explanation on the function Wire R PHC

 

[guf]

thats a real bad idea if your using Max-E capeable of 160A. the 63A will break connection in a few seconds at this current.
you should use two of them in parallel.
or you do same as i do:
using a normal fuse (no breaker) together with precharge bullet connectors (Jeti 5,5mm or 8mm).

Yes, you're right. If I read the C63 spec correctly, it should trip in around 10 seconds at 157.5A. This is OK for me. I don't think I'll use 160A for more than 10 seconds, it'll be probably less than that.

 

[litespeed]

I find that interesting since I have hit 196 amps, per the display, and as my speed increased the amps start to drop. Long story short I've kept it over 170 amps for 10 seconds and mine has never tripped. Wonder how accurate the breaker and MaxE is with amperage?

Very interesting and I think a video is in order. Need to get to an Apple Store for a card reader for my iPad.

Tom

 

[Offroader]

Q: Has anyone had a problem with their display peeling before?

I bought my Mini-E on ebay, it had probably been sitting in the box a long time. The membrane on the front of the display is peeling up at the bottom on one side.

My is peeling. When I first got my adaptto it was not really put on well and look distorted so adaptto fixed it when I had to return my controller for something else. It is starting to peel up again very slightly.

They did say they used a lot of glue or something to try and fix it.

I think eventually everyone will peel up.

 

[Offroader]

I find it weird that a resistor blows shorted, normally they would open.
Anyway, you can't solder another resistor on top if it because you have a short there with your blown resistor. You'll have to remove it first.

R113 is there as a protection against over-current in the Halls circuit, so my guess is that something shorted in your wiring when you landed hard. You'll have to find what it is.

Actually I think the 6 million ohms it reads would probably read the same if I removed the resistor. It is just that I am checking it on the board and this was the same case last time. Although I thought it read different than 6 million last time, like 70K but I forget.

Why do you think it is shorted if I am reading 6 million ohms? wouldn't it read .9 ohms as it would be a direct connection?

 

[Abneycat]

Abneycat, you sure it's not just the protective sheet you're seeing peeling off? The one that should have been removed when the controller was new...

The membrane itself is peeling up.

 

[Altair]

offroader, 6 milliOhms is extremely low, it's probably the resistance of your tester cables, that's why I think that the resistor is a short.

 

[Altair]

Abneycat, OK if the adhesive isn't doing its job anymore, it might be possible to repair it by going to a printing shop near you and ask for a sheet of double-side adhesive that they use when they print logos and stickers to make them self-sticking. It's just a sheet of transparent plastic with adhesive on both sides, and peel-away protective sheets over that. They must have loads of scrap pieces in their trash bins.

You can remove the old adhesive from your membrane with Varsol. It won't affect the plastic.

 

[Offroader]

offroader, 6 milliOhms is extremely low, it's probably the resistance of your tester cables, that's why I think that the resistor is a short.

Sorry, actually it reads 6,000,000 ohms on my reader. This is because even without the resistor in place it has continuity through the circuit, I checked this the last time I had it removed. This tells me that the resistor has no continuity at all.

 

[Altair]

AH ! That's more like it. 6 Mega Ohms
Just 1000 millions times higher than 6 milliOhms

 

[madin88]

Yes, you're right. If I read the C63 spec correctly, it should trip in around 10 seconds at 157.5A. This is OK for me. I don't think I'll use 160A for more than 10 seconds, it'll be probably less than that.

it seems like you still don't understand how those line circuit breakers work:

everything below 10x the rated current works with THERMAL cut off (bimetal).
the 10s are the time how long it takes before the bimetal triggers the connection at room temperature.
now youre doing stop and go a bunch of times with full throttle (you will do, right?), the 10sec more probabaly will turn into 1sec becuase the temperature of the bimetal already is close to the point where it triggers.

btw: don't forget that if the controller abrupt loses connection to the battery under high load, it could suffer damage

 

[guf]

I understand what you're saying. Thanks for your input.

 

[Offroader]

Replaced the R113 resistor, I just soldered a new one on top of the old one and it made it a lot easier to do compared to removing the old one and then soldering onto the board by itself. I just held it over the old one with tweezers, and touched the sides with the iron and it was soldered. I did try and put a little solder on the old resistor posts before placing the new one on, how much solder I got on I don't know.

Tested the resistor in circuit and it reads 4.9 ohms, perfect.

Hooked it up to my bike and the !HALLS! error is gone and I get temp. I didn't hook up my phase wires or ride the bike yet so I don't know if it will hold.

I just know there can't be anything wrong with my wiring that I would actually see, and am not going to open up my motor to look. If the resistor blows again then I'll do that.

I'm not too happy about it breaking in the first place, when you land those high jumps you always expect the worst, but not the stupid R113 resistor blowing.

 

[Altair]

when you land those high jumps you always expect the worst, but not the stupid R113 resistor blowing.

Yeah, would have been more spectacular if the battery had shorted together on that hard landing, lol
Keep a camera ready for next time. 8)

 

[BCTECH]

a very strange problem happened to my max e
Riding in the middle of the road and my motor suddenly stopped. Not a dead stop but more felt like the regen brake engaged by itself to put a hard brake on the bike. Lucky I was not on a high traffic road.
Then I looked at my screen, it said "Protected". After few second, the display went blank. Bike was dead and couldn't turn on again. Strange thing is when I was pushing the bike home, the regen brake seems still engaged the whole time, It feels like the rear wheel is locked even the controller is off. I had a really hard time pushing the bike home, like doing push up non stop for 30 mins.

After I got home, I unplugged / plugged everything again after few hours. The display starts like normal, but it went to "Charge" mode itself after few seconds. then also the bike is jerking.
https://youtu.be/0PTCqxYetng

 

[litespeed]

Sounds like your phase wires shorted together....whether they got hot or 2 grounded to the axle or somewhere else.

Touching two phase wires together makes it feel like regen is engaged.

Don't turn on the MaxE until you find out we're the short is.

Tom