Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

litespeed said:
Sounds like your phase wires shorted together....whether they got hot or 2 grounded to the axle or somewhere else.

Touching two phase wires together makes it feel like regen is engaged.

Don't turn on the MaxE until you find out we're the short is.

Tom

Yeah that has to be it. If you disconnect your phase wires from the max-e, and the motor still is doing the same thing then you know it is a short in the wires.

I've seen this before when touching the phase wires together and trying to rotate the motor.
 
thanks guys. checked the phase wires are shorted. will have to open the motor see whats going on inside.
The most things I hate are changing flat tires and fixing halls, but they happen all the time
 
BCTECH said:
thanks guys. checked the phase wires are shorted. will have to open the motor see whats going on inside.
The most things I hate are changing flat tires and fixing halls, but they happen all the time

Very odd that your phase wires would just short. I could have had a short also in wires by just landing a jump that doesn't make any sense. At least you will definitely see the short when you open it up.

hopefully it is not winding damage, I assume if you cut into your windings they could be shorted.
 
prior to the short I had a few small jumps, but I do small to big jumps every ride anyway. the short was happened after 10miles leaving the trail on the road. there's also a question why my max e couldn't turn on at that time, but it's on after I got home.
I have no idea how the phase wires inside the motor can be shorted, and so easily. I am sure no overheat issues.

have you find out what made your resistor blown ? shorted phase wires, hall sensors ?
 
No, it could really be anything. Something with the hard landing must have moved something. This assumes it is something with the wires and not the circuit board it self.
But since everything works now I'm not going to spend the time opening up everything to find what could have shorted when there is no short right now. If it happens again I certainly will look. Having the SLess option really helps also because I won't have to push the bike home for miles if it happens again.

Yours is much easier to find because yours is still shorted.
 
Just wanted to make sure if this was OK. Can I charge my battery without a motor?

Can I just hook up the charging coil to one of the 3 phase wires, and the other wire to the charge lead? leaving the other two phase wires not plugged into anything.
 
sometimes(often) the stock teflon insulation on phases is very brittle and will flake off in large chunks. iv seen this several times on cromotor phase wires, and usually replace the insulation with woven fibre sheath on all the phases. i can see that it might only be a matter of time before the stock insulation breaks, causing a short.
 
ridethelightning said:
sometimes(often) the stock teflon insulation on phases is very brittle and will flake off in large chunks. iv seen this several times on cromotor phase wires, and usually replace the insulation with woven fibre sheath on all the phases. i can see that it might only be a matter of time before the stock insulation breaks, causing a short.

I just found my stock insulation sleeve already cracking and ripping around the shaft exit area. There are two layers of insulation but both seem not holding. But that's not the cause of my short, I checked the phase wires themselves have not been damaged yet on that crack.
I will have to open my other side cover to see what happened there

do you know what is the best insulation sleeve for our phase wires in the market?

My experience is everyone who runs high power motor (QS/Cro ) better do all the upgrades when brand new before even connecting anything. Replace all new halls, phase wires, wire sleeve, silicon seal,... unless you enjoy open up the motor on and off
 
BCTECH said:
do you know what is the best insulation sleeve for our phase wires in the market?[quote

I have had good success with the white plastic coated fibreglass sleeve material that comes stock as cro and qs halls protective sheeth. it will fit nicely over 8awg turnigy silicone wire, but i removed the silicone from the section where the wires go through the axle, so the cable could be more flat in profile there.

its best to make sure there are no sharp burrs from machining on the axle where they might chafe at the sheathing. buff with emery paper/file.
 
Offroader said:
Just wanted to make sure if this was OK. Can I charge my battery without a motor?

Can I just hook up the charging coil to one of the 3 phase wires, and the other wire to the charge lead? leaving the other two phase wires not plugged into anything.

Hm you actually can:
http://electrotransport.ru/ussr/index.php?topic=18930.msg393903#msg393903

Looks like if you use resistors of 100 Ohm to connect the phases to the coil...
 
My battery is not balancing for some reason. I have 5 pices 16Ah Multistar LiPos and they always have a difference of 0,36v. 
Can anyone help? 
 
DasDouble said:
My battery is not balancing for some reason. I have 5 pices 16Ah Multistar LiPos and they always have a difference of 0,36v. 
Can anyone help? 

I would replace the faulty packs with new ones (checking single cell voltages before).
usually 10% of the cheap stuff is junk (cheap means rahter poor quality and packs not matched).

It will help if you than charge to 4,15V or lower and don't discharge below 3,5-3,6V (not all Lipos are identical here).
The lower the discharge voltage, the more drift you will se. This is on all Lithium packs the same (even on those which are well balanced on nominal voltage)
 
if you want to prevent drifting 3.7v(resting voltage not on load)
is maximum for discharge
lipo cliff is on 3.65v

but with that voltage gap the adaptto bms would take a week or more.
how did you balance? only with the adappto bms? did you have a RC charger?
can you measure the Internal Resistance of your cells?
 
Just been wondering what C rating people have regen amp limit set to?

I have recently turned mine up from 30a equaling 1C for my 30ah lipo pack(1-2C rated cells) to 40a and was wondering if i could go up even more. The regen amp value only spikes to 35-40a for a tenth of a second and then quickly drops as speed reduces. I dont use active or forced regen or go higher than about 250 current phase regen (Ipr) as it heats up motor much faster.
 
brumbrum said:
...The key switch wires will be available on this controller... an emergency kill switch...

I recently received a first generation mini-e from a friend. It doesn't have the on/off wiring and I'd like to know, where I could tweak the system to include such an on/off (kill) switch. I searched for a while and it seems the only option is to splice it in the 'red' wire which feeds the display. Isn't there a way to retro-fit the controller's circuit board?
And to what firmware version should I upgrade the mini-e?

sorry for these probably very basic questions, but I couldn't find answers yet even though I spent much time browsing the ES threads.
r
 
rolf_w said:
brumbrum said:
...The key switch wires will be available on this controller... an emergency kill switch...

I recently received a first generation mini-e from a friend. It doesn't have the on/off wiring and I'd like to know, where I could tweak the system to include such an on/off (kill) switch. I searched for a while and it seems the only option is to splice it in the 'red' wire which feeds the display. Isn't there a way to retro-fit the controller's circuit board?
And to what firmware version should I upgrade the mini-e?

sorry for these probably very basic questions, but I couldn't find answers yet even though I spent much time browsing the ES threads.
r

Adaptto made a post about where to splice into the circuit board to add this. Was a while ago so you would need to search through adaptto posts until you find it. Not sure if this will work with the min-e or if it was only for the max-e.
 
Works on all controllers:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=61183&p=1014809#p1014809

You can upgrade your mini to whatever version.
 
Allex said:
Works on all controllers:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=61183&p=1014809#p1014809

You can upgrade your mini to whatever version.

Does this stop all current from passing through the controller?
 
BCTECH said:
a very strange problem happened to my max e
Riding in the middle of the road and my motor suddenly stopped. Not a dead stop but more felt like the regen brake engaged by itself to put a hard brake on the bike. Lucky I was not on a high traffic road.
Then I looked at my screen, it said "Protected". After few second, the display went blank. Bike was dead and couldn't turn on again. Strange thing is when I was pushing the bike home, the regen brake seems still engaged the whole time, It feels like the rear wheel is locked even the controller is off. I had a really hard time pushing the bike home, like doing push up non stop for 30 mins.

After I got home, I unplugged / plugged everything again after few hours. The display starts like normal, but it went to "Charge" mode itself after few seconds. then also the bike is jerking.
https://youtu.be/0PTCqxYetng

Still not fix and need some serious help
Going back and forth trying to determine if the motor or the controller is burned.

First of all, when the motor is totally disconnected from the max e, it can spin freely. Does that mean the motor side is good? Any possibility it's shorted if it can spin freely?
The reason I still have doubt because when I use the "diode tester function" on multimeter, I can hear the beeps when measuring each phase wire to the others.

Second, when I connect the motor to the max e, as long as I connect the Green phase wire and spin the wheel, the motor starts cogging. The motor can spin in any other connection (blue, yellow, hall, regen brake, throttle). Only the Green wire connection makes the motor cogging.
I measured the ohm between phase wires of the Max e:
Battery Red to Blue - 1.2M ohm
Battery Red to Yellow - 1.2M ohm
Battery Red to Green - 1.0M ohm

Battery Black to Blue - 0.2M ohm
Battery Black to Yellow - 0.2M ohm
Battery Black to Green - 4.3M ohm

Can anyone see whats wrong?
Thanks
 
BCTECH - Sounds like the fets on the green phase are knackered.
when I was pushing the bike home, the regen brake seems still engaged the whole time
This is also very indicative of the controller fets on at least one phase blown. Controller is definately in need of repair. Also, to have made the controller go into protect mode sounds like you may have a 'short circuit' issue within your hub/connector/harness to have blown the controller in the first place. As an indication of the lengths you may have to go to, with the Cro I had to, replace halls, replace hall leg heatshrink, re-terminate phase wires to windings, teflon coat where the cable exits the hub, laquer the entire inside of the hub with 'Scotch 1602', bonding bead along the magnets/hub and finally use silicone grease to act as a moisture barrier where you bolt the hub sides together.

Brum - I've been running 4S16AH Multistars in 20S2P since the A123 20AH pouches gave up. Sticking to 1C regen charge and maxing the total regen out, leaving the MIDI/Cro to take the brunt of the heat. One thing I have noticed is after coming to a stop and switching the setup off after a long regen the BMS seems to take a while (minute or two) to register the correct cell balance if you turn the system back on again within the hour.
 
Ok, thanks for answering. I may turn the limit down a little back to 1C and crank up the profile setting for regen instead and see how much it affects motor temp.
Cheers
 
I "hear" from some people that the max-e production has stopped?

Did they already announced when the replacement controller will be available?
 
Tjeska said:
I "hear" from some people that the max-e production has stopped?

Did they already announced when the replacement controller will be available?

Yeah I heard this also, maybe they are building the new model right now.
 
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