Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

I am also getting a jolt from the motor every time i press the up button and sometimes left and right buttons on the display???
 
litespeed said:
mudflap5 said:
Looking for a power supply to charge a pack through the Adaptto controller. Is there any advantage to using one power supply over another? Example: Power supply #1. 48 volts at 10.42 amps = 500 watts or Power supply #2. 60 volts at 8.33 amps = 500 watts. Just wondering which one would charge the pack faster, if either. Charging a 20S10P pack.


Time line would probably be about the same but the higher volt of power supply #2 would run most efficiently. I use a 25 volt 67 amp power supply set to a maximum of 30 amps through the MaxE and my 10 gauge wires get pretty hot. Not melting hot but hotter than anything else does on the bike even while driving like I stole it.

Tom

Sounds good. Thanks.
 
Madin88
Thank you for the quick answer. I think I got the same problem. I ordered a new thumb throttle for brake and hope it will solve the problem.
:D
 
ridethelightning said:
brumbrum said:
Anyone had issues with 'Protect' intermittently showing when powering up the controller? I thought mine was being caused by a short from a snapped usb dongle on the display but i have since removed this wiring and still now and again Protect comes up on start. If i turn off and on again it usually sorts it :roll:

that was what happened to me with a mini-e a few times, before it finally decided to blow a trace on the power board.

i have received my controller back from repair, but now it has some really weird issues. the main screen is not there, and instead displays a charge status screen, saying the controller is charging at 900 watts, but its not even plugged in to a charger or coil!(???)

maybe i need to flash a firmware, perhaps the screen is still at an old firmware version,as i only sent the controller, and perhaps they updated the controller firmware.

i still have not contacted them to ask..,

UPDATE

i managed to upgrade firmware, and now the main screen is working ok, but the controller permanently reads that it is drawing 9000watts,@160A :shock:
(cables are cold 8) )

there is also PROTECTION error message displayed.
still no reply from adaptto support..
anyone know what might sort this?
 
Sounds like some serious recalibration is needed...

My jolting and Protect message was from a bad solder in the display unit. I also noticed that the clear ribbon wire strip was very loose and detaches it self very easily from the clip it's meant to be secured to.
 
Today again I had problem with max-e
I left bike outside for a one hour and outside temp was around 0 or -1c.
After one hour I tried to turn on switch to start bike but adaptto didn't want to start, until i left bike inside house for an hour or two
Did anyone have similar issues with minus degrees?
Just to clarify more I am running 20s of headway cells

thanks
 
jjluzuld said:
Today again I had problem with max-e
I left bike outside for a one hour and outside temp was around 0 or -1c.
After one hour I tried to turn on switch to start bike but adaptto didn't want to start, until i left bike inside house for an hour or two
Did anyone have similar issues with minus degrees?
Just to clarify more I am running 20s of headway cells

thanks

I did read somewhere that when unlocking the firmware there is a choice in the menu setup to activate a screen warmer or something to that effect. Perhaps someone else can elaborate
 
brumbrum said:
jjluzuld said:
Today again I had problem with max-e
I left bike outside for a one hour and outside temp was around 0 or -1c.
After one hour I tried to turn on switch to start bike but adaptto didn't want to start, until i left bike inside house for an hour or two
Did anyone have similar issues with minus degrees?
Just to clarify more I am running 20s of headway cells

thanks

I did read somewhere that when unlocking the firmware there is a choice in the menu setup to activate a screen warmer or something to that effect. Perhaps someone else can elaborate

Maybe there was someone with same issue like mine. Not sure if this is due display warmth #smh
 
Has anyone here bought or built a case for the Adaptto BMS? Or wrapped it in large heatshrink? I'd like to cover it up as much as possible and I'm wondering what others have done.
 
atarijedi said:
Has anyone here bought or built a case for the Adaptto BMS? Or wrapped it in large heatshrink? I'd like to cover it up as much as possible and I'm wondering what others have done.
Careful how much you insulate it!
[youtube]gn-MSFksN2k[/youtube]

Cheers
 
Seems the one that caught fire was wrapped in plastic or something. A heatsink will remove the heat rather the accumulate heat.
 
Hello guy's

Did Update Midi-E FW RC9G2 to RC9G4.
Before the update all was working fine.
Now my Magura 5K throttle isn't working anymore and i can't do autodetect :-(

The wiring of the throttle must be oke: it was working perfectly before the update of the FW.

Any idea what could be the problem?

Thanks
 
smurphy said:
Hello guy's

Did Update Midi-E FW RC9G2 to RC9G4.
Before the update all was working fine.
Now my Magura 5K throttle isn't working anymore and i can't do autodetect :-(

The wiring of the throttle must be oke: it was working perfectly before the update of the FW.

Any idea what could be the problem?

Thanks

one or two pages before you'll find the answer ;)
i wonder why adaptto did not write that down in the changelog of the firmware.
changing things in the software without informing the crowd isn't wise..
 
Tkx for the fast reply Madin and Alex.

I Totally agree with you Madin :-(
I did already the search and found some answers.
What got me confused was that i assumed that my wiring was oke :)
This is new to me, that after a FW upgrade the wiring must be changed :)


Will start rewiring and post some results.
 
Rewiring done and all works now :)
The 100ohm did the trick.

I don't use the Domino.
I use the Magura Throttle, so no switch to connect.

MAGURA ADAPTTO
Blue (pot max) 1 Brown (+5V)
Brown (wiper) 4 Blue (wiper)
Black(pot zero) 3 Black(GND)

100Ohm over Brown(+5V) and Black (GND)

Is use regen on my breaks (Tektro) with a switch in series to switch regen off when i go off road.
 
Hi all,

I have some questions about BMS from Adaptto.

How is the process of balancing ?
From what i see balancing starts at the end of a full charge, with charger still connected ?

Yesterday i wanted to fully balance my pack, so i left the controller on for the whole day.
At the end is was at 0.009 Vdelta so i guess this is a balanced pack?
I wanted a "Balanced" message so i left it connected, but little after that i got a BMS fail ??

Today, after leaving everything off for the night, i have a Battery OK.
Is it normal that the V bars just keep jumping all the time, and i never get a full flat line?

So little confused :)

For my balance wiring i used flat multi cable of 26 awg, and kept it as short as possible. Is this oke?

Thanks
 
I would reply Yes to all your questions. :)
But the BMS error is not normal. I've left the charger ON for extended times and I've never seen an error message.
Note that you don't have to balance your cells every time you recharge the battery. If you usually never drain all the energy of your pack before recharge, a small unbalance will not affect the performance of your pack.

I do not know the technique that Adaptto uses to balance the cells, but I would be interested in knowing it, if anyone knows. It's either Current Bypass, or Charge Redistribution.
 
Altair said:
I do not know the technique that Adaptto uses to balance the cells, but I would be interested in knowing it, if anyone knows. It's either Current Bypass, or Charge Redistribution.

the BMS will bleed down every single group to the voltage you have set in BMS menu called "balancing V". the discharge current is about 60mA or something like that..

Now, if you set for instance that balancing V to 3,8V, and your pack is fully charged to 4,15V, the BMS will discharge the entire battery to that 3,8V. That means, after some days, your fully charged battery will no more be full.

because of that, i would recommend to set the balancing V a little bit higher as the maximum charge voltage.
I charge my LiIon batteries to 4,125V and have set it to 4,13V.
I do not want to let the BMS "touch" a new, perfectly balanced battery (below 2mV), because the accuracy of the BMS is something like +-10mV. that means it would add a little drift to your battery which was perfectly balanced before.

The adaptto BMS is just a voltage monitoring device and it will cut power if something is wrong. It is no "real" BMS.
the balancing function is a nice gimmic, but if your battery is always drifting apart after balancing anew, you anyway should repair it (finding the bad cell and replace it), or swapping the battery.
 
Thanks for the explanation, madin.
I actually have my balancing voltage set at .05V LESS than my maximum battery voltage. The thinking was that when current is flowing into the battery, it artificially increases the voltage, but when the charging stops, the voltage will go down a bit.
I have my maximum voltage set at the maximum allowable voltage for the type of cell I'm using. So any balancing done will not exceed that setting.

In your case, you seem to have set your balancing voltage at the maximum allowable for your cells, and the max charge voltage a little bit lower than that. That must work as well I suppose.

The BMS seems to alternate between charging and selectively discharging cells when it is balancing. That's a kind of active balancing mode isn't it?
 
Altair said:
In your case, you seem to have set your balancing voltage at the maximum allowable for your cells, and the max charge voltage a little bit lower than that. That must work as well I suppose.

The BMS seems to alternate between charging and selectively discharging cells when it is balancing. That's a kind of active balancing mode isn't it?

No, the BMS only starts to discharge if it reads a voltage (at one or more groups) which is higher than what you have set. It cannot charge.

Generally, the maximum allowed charge voltage for LiIon is 4,2V but if you stay below, you can improve the lifetime.
as mentioned, i charge to 4,125V and the balancing V i have set a bit higher at 4,13V
-> BMS never will go into balance mode as long as my batteries are in good condition
A good battery doesn't need balancing. Thats the point.
 
Back
Top