Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[drew12345]

About max speed I have the same problem, I lowered the Speed ratio until the Adaptto display tells the same as my GPS. Anybody else noticed this difference?

Yeah, I double checked today and definitely off even though correct diameter. I just reduced it down to match my GPS.

Does anyone know max temp for these controllers and if has safe cutoff feature?

 

[qwøck]

How much are you charging with mini-e?
I have the possibility til charge with 2000W. or 37 amp 50v. I found that even 17 amps will get it uncomfortably hot...

 

[Allex]

Hi Allex, you might mention to Adaptto to check their Max-E case milling jig. The holes in my metal case did not line up with the holes in the plastic end cap. The end cap is correct with the metal case being way off center to one side. I had to mangle the case up pretty bad to get it to work without taking the end cap off (as I hear that voids warranty). Unfortunately, it also isn't square and I already used a prior Max-E template (that was square) to drill my frame so now that is wallowed up too to fit the Max-E. It only takes 1 second to check that it is properly milled so hopefully they can do this in the future.

I will show them your msg. Thx

 

[Mammalian04]

Hi Allex, you might mention to Adaptto to check their Max-E case milling jig. The holes in my metal case did not line up with the holes in the plastic end cap. The end cap is correct with the metal case being way off center to one side. I had to mangle the case up pretty bad to get it to work without taking the end cap off (as I hear that voids warranty). Unfortunately, it also isn't square and I already used a prior Max-E template (that was square) to drill my frame so now that is wallowed up too to fit the Max-E. It only takes 1 second to check that it is properly milled so hopefully they can do this in the future.

I will show them your msg. Thx

Couple photos for them. It seems like half a width is not that much but it is when the hole is the same size as the bolt.

 

[Willow]

Question...

I have put the power supply and charge coil on-board the bike I'm building... Then using the switch (below) to engage the charging coil - when at position 1+2 (one is the coil and 2 is a phase wire).




...If the coil is left engaged by mistake (not switching the coil off) and then opperated the controller will be damaged. So I want to put a relay to cut the throttle if the coil is still engaged... by installing a lead from the coil connection (at position 1) to a relay.

When charging the relay would engage and disable the throttle because there is a constant current flow - however, if the bike was to be ridden, the phases are pulsed - so the relay would turn off and on fast... and cut the throttle when each pulse is delivered to the phase with the coil attached. Will the relay be effective??

Is this correct?? are there any other ways to trip the relay??

ok... so the solution to this problem.

I have a lead coming from the coil connection at the switch going to a 5V relay... switching the 12V circuit and blasting the horn. Only just have to twist the throttle and it goes off. Certainly will stop you riding off as it's very loud. Throttle is not affected.

 

[drew12345]

I just wanted to say these controllers are awesome!

Been riding it hard the past week. Been on the road and trail. Hit 57 mph / 91.7 km/h on the road. Then trail riding in complete silence with only sound of tires rolling over leaves.

And have the MaxE internally mounted and have only gotten motor and controller to 50c.

Love the smooth throttle control also!

 

[ridethelightning]

I just wanted to say these controllers are awesome!

Been riding it hard the past week. Been on the road and trail. Hit 57 mph / 91.7 km/h on the road. Then trail riding in complete silence with only sound of tires rolling over leaves.

And have the MaxE internally mounted and have only gotten motor and controller to 50c.

Love the smooth throttle control also!

glad to hear you enjoy the silence like I do

what power levels are you running and for how long with regards to controller being internal?

have made vents in the frame at all?

Question...

I have put the power supply and charge coil on-board the bike I'm building... Then using the switch (below) to engage the charging coil - when at position 1+2 (one is the coil and 2 is a phase wire).




...If the coil is left engaged by mistake (not switching the coil off) and then opperated the controller will be damaged. So I want to put a relay to cut the throttle if the coil is still engaged... by installing a lead from the coil connection (at position 1) to a relay.

When charging the relay would engage and disable the throttle because there is a constant current flow - however, if the bike was to be ridden, the phases are pulsed - so the relay would turn off and on fast... and cut the throttle when each pulse is delivered to the phase with the coil attached. Will the relay be effective??

Is this correct?? are there any other ways to trip the relay??

ok... so the solution to this problem.

I have a lead coming from the coil connection at the switch going to a 5V relay... switching the 12V circuit and blasting the horn. Only just have to twist the throttle and it goes off. Certainly will stop you riding off as it's very loud. Throttle is not affected.

great solution.
simple but fairly foolproof id say.

 

[lumenpdx]

About to pull the trigger and start ordering components for my build. I've been digging through the forum and reviewing the Adaptto manual but still can't find a clear answer to some questions specific to my configuration. I intend to run 2wd with a pair of geared MAC hub motors driven by a 2WD Mini-E setup.

* I've only found reference to adjusting the cut-out speed for a second hub motor. How configurable is the second wheel? Do you get complete configuration freedom with the second wheel, or does it just run with the same configuration as the first? What if you want to run two completely different motors? Different throttle response, etc?

* The documentation is unclear about how to setup a speed sensor for geared/clutched hubs, only referring to wiring in a reed switch in place of the brake sensor. Can anyone point me towards the right hardware/setup to implement this? And does this mean I won't be able to use e-brake cut-out in this configuration?

* Does the interface allow you to monitor metrics for both motors/controllers, or only one?

 

[kdee122]

I just updated two of my mini-e to the latest firmware and now i have throttle problems. When i go to the "throttle limits" setting menu page I no longer get any movement on the small slider at the bottom of the screen. This with the domino throttle. I have new throttle and have the same issue.

Does anyone have the older firmware, its no longer available on the adaptto website.

 

[ridethelightning]

I just updated two of my mini-e to the latest firmware and now i have throttle problems. When i go to the "throttle limits" setting menu page I no longer get any movement on the small slider at the bottom of the screen. This with the domino throttle. I have new throttle and have the same issue.

Does anyone have the older firmware, its no longer available on the adaptto website.

+1
i would like to have a copy of rc7b handy, i hope it can still be found.

 

[Brake]

Rc7b goto post #2189. Steilz posted it up.

 

[Stielz]

I should probably add that it is the locked version so not going to void your warranty

 

[DasDouble]

Question: Is a coil necessary if you alredy have a charger? What is it good for? Do you really need one? What is the difference between the 30A and the 70A Coil??? -Thanks

 

[ridethelightning]

coil is for stepping up psu voltage to the appropriate battery voltage as required.
therefore you can use any 24v or higher psu to charge an 84vpack for example.
the controller will automatically adjust the voltage needed, no need to get a specific voltage charger every time you get a different pack.

70A/30A coil is rated for the psu output current, so for example 70A coil can be used with a psu capable of outputting 50v@70A ,3500watts charge power.

for 18650 pack, eg.22s10p samsung 25R,84v nom., i generally charge at max 20A battery current =1700watts

with a 54v Eaton psu, this would be around 31.5A psu current.

I use the 70A coil for this because i suspect it keeps the system cooler, and has plenty of leeway.

 

[Seya]

Hey All,

I'd be curious to hear from people who are using Adaptto with geared motors like Mac/BMC
Particularly wanting to know if they run a lot smoother then with Infineon style controls?

Gear motors can run a little rough using square wave controllers like infineon.
Does the Addaptto controller rectify this?

 

[DasDouble]

coil is for stepping up psu voltage to the appropriate battery voltage as required.
therefore you can use any 24v or higher psu to charge an 84vpack for example.
the controller will automatically adjust the voltage needed, no need to get a specific voltage charger every time you get a different pack.

70A/30A coil is rated for the psu output current, so for example 70A coil can be used with a psu capable of outputting 50v@70A ,3500watts charge power.

for 18650 pack, eg.22s10p samsung 25R,84v nom., i generally charge at max 20A battery current =1700watts

with a 54v Eaton psu, this would be around 31.5A psu current.

I use the 70A coil for this because i suspect it keeps the system cooler, and has plenty of leeway.

Thank you really much! Does the battery charge faster if you use a 70A coil instead of a 30A coil?

 

[Mammalian04]

coil is for stepping up psu voltage to the appropriate battery voltage as required.
therefore you can use any 24v or higher psu to charge an 84vpack for example.
the controller will automatically adjust the voltage needed, no need to get a specific voltage charger every time you get a different pack.

70A/30A coil is rated for the psu output current, so for example 70A coil can be used with a psu capable of outputting 50v@70A ,3500watts charge power.

for 18650 pack, eg.22s10p samsung 25R,84v nom., i generally charge at max 20A battery current =1700watts

with a 54v Eaton psu, this would be around 31.5A psu current.

I use the 70A coil for this because i suspect it keeps the system cooler, and has plenty of leeway.

Thank you really much! Does the battery charge faster if you use a 70A coil instead of a 30A coil?

If you use 31 amps or more, yes. :lol:


Just like RIdeTheLightning, I use the 70 amp coil. I have it stuffed in my frame so I want it to stay as cool as possible so I went with the bigger one. Also, if I ever DO want to charge with more than 30 amps, I have right hardware to do it. That being said, I am only using a 50v 20 amp meanwell power supply so I am nowhere near the limits of the coil so it should stay nice and cool inside the my bike frame.

The cost is not that big a difference so just get the 70A unless you can't fit it where you want it to go.

 

[DasDouble]

Thanks for this detailed answer

 

[broke]

I have bought 2 mini controllers about a year ago and have had problems with both.
My daily commuter has almost 3000 miles on it. I run ht3525 with the controller inside protected. It heats up around the same time the motor does at full power seems like a good match. First problem with the controller it would not let me change throttle settings 2nd problem the screen would not go into sleep mode. After contacting adaptto they said send it back for repair. They told me because I live in a humid place and have high miles just send it in for repair. This is my daily ride. And I didn't know 3000 miles was high. So I just sent it in and the cost of shipping with insurance was $80 and the controller is just out of warranty so i don't know how much it will cost me. Its never been wet or unlocked. I can't see sending this to Russia every 3000 miles.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

I'm having issues tuning my Leaf motor.

It seems there are 3 main settings that effect things;
Angle corr.
Ind timing
PWR timing

If I set PWR timing to more than 1.4 and then run Autodetect, it will set the Angle corr. to -9 to -11 and Ind timing to more than 0450uS. Things seem to work ok, but I see huge amps draw at high speed and the motor heats up pretty fast.

If I set PWR timing to less than 1.4 and then run Autodetect, it will set the Angle corr. to -4 to -6 and Ind timing to less than 400uS. Again, things seem to run normally, but I can't get much speed, acceleration is less, and OVS barely seems to make a difference.

I've been playing around with different combinations of these settings manually all day, and can't seem to figure out what the best combo is. Regardless of the PWR timing, it seems if I lower the Angle corr. (closer to 0) I can also lower the Ind timing to keep things smooth sounding, however none of the combo's I've come up with seem right in terms of acceleration, speed and heat generation.

Any help much appreciated.

Cheers

 

[madin88]

if one has a motor and found optimal settings, these settings should work as well for all motors of the same type. the most important thing is the halls are mounted correct.

it would be really nice to have a spreadsheet with common used motors and the optimal settings.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

the most important thing is the halls are mounted correct.

I'm wondering if this might be my issue as I'm getting drastically different settings from running autodetect.
The halls are freshly mounted, obviously in the cutout slots, however I left the stock halls in place and mounted the new one's on the other side as there were slots on both sides of my Leaf motor.
Does it matter which side of the stator the halls are mounted? Mine are currently running on the side where the phase wires connect.

How would I check if my halls are mounted correctly? They are currently epoxied into place in there slots so they aren't moving, but how would I check without removing them?

Cheers

 

[ridethelightning]

ok so i have just had a spot of trouble with a new max-e and a 5404.

iv been running this setup for a couple months without issue.
,
today, after a fair ride, with motor temps getting up towards 90c, coming up a steep hill
the was a sudden grinding/rushing sound from the hub and a feeling of reduced power.




it was not the usual feeling of the controller rolling back power because of high temps, speed limit or bms lvc etc, but rather felt something like the axle slipping in the stator...
...as crazy as that sounds.

fets were still only at 35c.

I was able to climb very slowly up the remainder of the hill, and get home, but it seems it only occurs under high accelleration/torque

i could still cruise home at 40 kph, but if i twist the throttle sharply the vibrating/rushing feeling is there, coupled with the slipping feeling/lack of torque.
it actually feels/sounds like something is increasing in rpm but slipping causing lack of torque.
there is a magnetic shudder/vibtration that goes with it.



re-autodetect ran fine but did not impove things.
clamping dropouts are still solid.
all halls seem to be ok in the monitor. the motor runs smooth as it always has when running under low torque.
motor and controller temps seem normal too after riding with this issue.

things that i have thought it might be are:

windings somehow partly fried(?)but i dont think it ever got hot enough.
some issue with the controller phase input(?)
magnets overheated(?)...also not hot enough.




has anyone experienced anything like this before?

 

[Willow]

...Maybe a phase wire issue??

I did my first run to Taroona today... and first time I've managed to keep the controller under 60 degrees. Still tuning, but pretty much there. Very heavy bike for the little controller - 55km/h is cruising speed with OVS at zero.

replaced the old style coil with the round one - old one was getting crazy hot at even 1000W

 

[madin88]

has anyone experienced anything like this before?

YES, i was riding a bike with cromotor where all the magnets got loose. the motor worked well at low torque but at higher load the magnets alone spun.
i suspect you have the same problem.
IIRC that motor was laced with very large spokes (>4mm) into a motorcycle rim with high tension. maybe the iron ring got stretched and the magnets become loose due to this, but thats only a guess..
good luck!

@ cow duck
it should not matter if the halls are mounted on left or right side if you have the option. a correct mounted hall should be inserted in entirely into the slot and should round off with the stator surface.
if its below the surface or twisted it would be not good. i often have seen this on the middle hall of MXUS motors thats the one that is between two teeth..