Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread
- Thread starter GCinDC
- Start date
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
anyone know if i can use an Eaton to charge a 16s l-ion pack with the adaptto coil?
im not sure as they say the psu needs to be less then the pack voltage, 16s x 3.0v = 48v.
i think eaton is 54v nom. do they mean less then the pack max soc voltage or less then the min soc voltage??
im not sure as they say the psu needs to be less then the pack voltage, 16s x 3.0v = 48v.
i think eaton is 54v nom. do they mean less then the pack max soc voltage or less then the min soc voltage??
Jonboy said:Hey guys anybody got a fix for this.. My Max E has been working fine but just recently when I switch it on instead of the normal ECO-BMS-ECO on start up it displays PROTECT-BMS-PROTECT... Disconnect from the battery then reconnect, then it's perfect.. ECO-BMS-ECO. rides normal no probs
Very annoying, I really don't want to damage it at the mo as my lad gets his adaptto/raptor setup for xmas.. I'll be gutted if my bike is in dock & we can't go ride together!
Same here.
It happens from time to time, quiete randomly......
It happened only....at least so far......when the bike was off for a longer time.
I noticed it when switching it on at the morning.
But it dosent bothers me too much, on off and it disapeares......
On off in my case means disconnect the battery......i have an old max-e.
chucho
1 kW
I would like to use a conector like this
To use the eaton 1800w to charge. What other options are you ussing?
I saw some time ago a cover that was posted here for this conector so no water could get inside but cant find it any more
To use the eaton 1800w to charge. What other options are you ussing?
I saw some time ago a cover that was posted here for this conector so no water could get inside but cant find it any more
Mammalian04
100 kW
chucho said:I would like to use a conector like this
To use the eaton 1800w to charge. What other options are you ussing?
I saw some time ago a cover that was posted here for this conector so no water could get inside but cant find it any more
Hi Chucho, I would purchase the 8 pole version so you have the versatility of paralleling poles if you run more amps later on. Easier to start that way.
Regarding the covers, be careful about which covers you purchase. I have not found a cover that works with the slightly larger sockets that have 4 screw holes. I bought the wrong ones (for the lighter weight versions with 2 diagonal screw holes) and these gaskets and plugs are too small. I haven't found a plug cover that fits and keeps water out yet.
If you DO end up getting the smaller 2 hole version (smaller hole to cut in the bike frame), I can send you some gaskets for free as I will never use them and it is too late for me to return.
EDIT: Nevermind, I see you are in Spain Chucho. Cheaper for you to purchase locally. However, if there is anyone in the U.S. that wants the Neutrik gaskets, I have a bunch that they can have for free but I still recommend using the heavier duty plugs and just make cut your own gaskets.
ccmdr
100 W
Using this XLR with dust cover for my Eltek flatpack @ 53.7v 30A (37A available). Tighened the spring on the back and I've yet to get water ingress, with 'sunny' UK weather :wink:.
chucho
1 kW
Mammalian04 said:chucho said:I would like to use a conector like this
To use the eaton 1800w to charge. What other options are you ussing?
I saw some time ago a cover that was posted here for this conector so no water could get inside but cant find it any more
Hi Chucho, I would purchase the 8 pole version so you have the versatility of paralleling poles if you run more amps later on. Easier to start that way.
Regarding the covers, be careful about which covers you purchase. I have not found a cover that works with the slightly larger sockets that have 4 screw holes. I bought the wrong ones (for the lighter weight versions with 2 diagonal screw holes) and these gaskets and plugs are too small. I haven't found a plug cover that fits and keeps water out yet.
If you DO end up getting the smaller 2 hole version (smaller hole to cut in the bike frame), I can send you some gaskets for free as I will never use them and it is too late for me to return.
EDIT: Nevermind, I see you are in Spain Chucho. Cheaper for you to purchase locally. However, if there is anyone in the U.S. that wants the Neutrik gaskets, I have a bunch that they can have for free but I still recommend using the heavier duty plugs and just make cut your own gaskets.
Yes, i am going to buy 8 pole (i think i read it from you sometime ago :wink: ). Thank you for the offer, lets see if someone else need them. If you find any cover someday please contact me by MP so i dont miss them.
I have found this
The smaller version of 2 hole is also 8 pole? I wish i was at USA Everything is more expensive and hard to find here.
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
ccmdr said:Using this XLR with dust cover for my Eltek flatpack @ 53.7v 30A (37A available). Tighened the spring on the back and I've yet to get water ingress, with 'sunny' UK weather :wink:.
ah! another eltek flatpack user.
I have one coming in the post.
how much fan noise does it make? it will be interesting to compare to the Eaton.
Seven
10 W
If you are going down the neutrik speakon route (which you should) use one of these covers http://www.neutrik.us/en-us/speakon/speakon-chassis-connectors-accessories/sccd-w
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
thats a neat looking cover. id not seen it before.
so will it fith the nlt4fx type sockets?
i have used the 40A version for charge socket, I was a little hasty to get the plug soldered up and made a pretty crap job of it, as i needed to show the bike to a potential customer in 15mins :lol:
I think it may be cause the solder joints were done in a hurry, but the plug was around 55-60C (Hot to touch) after charging at ~30A psu current for 15mins.
so will it fith the nlt4fx type sockets?
i have used the 40A version for charge socket, I was a little hasty to get the plug soldered up and made a pretty crap job of it, as i needed to show the bike to a potential customer in 15mins :lol:
I think it may be cause the solder joints were done in a hurry, but the plug was around 55-60C (Hot to touch) after charging at ~30A psu current for 15mins.
Mammalian04
100 kW
ridethelightning said:
Erik, I don't think that cover will work for the NLT4FX. I am still looking for a cover for the NLT4FX and NLT8FX plugs... Right now, I am using a rubber axle bumper that came in the protective packaging for my kids power wheels. Whatever works for now, lol...
Seven
10 W
It all depends on what socket you are using, NLT4FX is a plug, what sockets are you using on your bikes, that cover will fit quite a few sockets that will accept the NLT4FX but it depends on which one you've installed
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
Seven said:
yeah, sorry.
i meant the nlt4mp sockets-
http://www.neutrik.com/en/speakon/stx-series/nlt4mp-bag
Seven
10 W
My bad that cover will not fit,
Seven
10 W
It will fit this though
http://www.neutrik.com/en/speakon/speakon-chassis-connectors/nl4mp
Although the current rating is a little lower, it's what I'm using @ 30a out of my eaton,
http://www.neutrik.com/en/speakon/speakon-chassis-connectors/nl4mp
Although the current rating is a little lower, it's what I'm using @ 30a out of my eaton,
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
with those lower rated 30Acont sockets, what temps do you get charging at ~30A psu current?
just trying to find out if mine gets hot cause of the bad solder joints or if the socket is over-rated...
just trying to find out if mine gets hot cause of the bad solder joints or if the socket is over-rated...
Seven
10 W
Haven't actually measured the socket itself, I need to upgrade my cable going to the plug as its my weak point
Mammalian04
100 kW
ridethelightning said:
Others have noted that the sockets are overrated. That is why I paralleled mine on the 8 port.
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
wow! thats a really nice shot
looks like the battery is showing a little heat, but the motor looks stone cold....
I have finally decided to tackle the task of heat management on my Nyx bike, as the controller is inside the frame, as is the coil.
the frame is pretty much chock full of batteries so there is limited options of where to make vents/install fans.
the max-e is sitting in the frame, above the batteries, near the seat area. I got it to 60C last night when i was test riding, i dont like that sort of heat in the frame near the cells.
im thinking of putting a fan under the seat bracket section, that blows air out, with intakes at the front, near the head tube.
the other possibilty is attaching copper heat sinks to the controller, and running thick copper cables off that to the outside air, with sinks on them....or do both
has anyone had sucess with using fans with in-frame controllers? what airflow is needed?
looks like the battery is showing a little heat, but the motor looks stone cold....
I have finally decided to tackle the task of heat management on my Nyx bike, as the controller is inside the frame, as is the coil.
the frame is pretty much chock full of batteries so there is limited options of where to make vents/install fans.
the max-e is sitting in the frame, above the batteries, near the seat area. I got it to 60C last night when i was test riding, i dont like that sort of heat in the frame near the cells.
im thinking of putting a fan under the seat bracket section, that blows air out, with intakes at the front, near the head tube.
the other possibilty is attaching copper heat sinks to the controller, and running thick copper cables off that to the outside air, with sinks on them....or do both
has anyone had sucess with using fans with in-frame controllers? what airflow is needed?
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
Mammalian04 said:
hmmm, i might end up doing that too..
ccmdr
100 W
The Eltek FlatpackHE2 is very quiet, the electrical charging whine from the motor (v3 Cro) is much 'louder', relatively. It's still quiet. Charging twice daily (total avg 2500 - 2600 watts @ 19C ambient) with the XLR and not had any issues with the pins melting the surrounding area, thats with the 30A Coil, Mini-E and 26S of A123 inside a none ventilated Vector frame. Although I have passive heatsinks mounted on both sides of the Mini-E that protrude 3mm through the side covers much like this, if the pebble dash wall is the panel and the fins that of the heatsink.
Like others, it seems I under-rated the charging feed cable and at 30A it does become quite warm to touch. This is being corrected with the remaining 12AWG left from the HS3540 with cut phase wires.
Like others, it seems I under-rated the charging feed cable and at 30A it does become quite warm to touch. This is being corrected with the remaining 12AWG left from the HS3540 with cut phase wires.
KiwiEV did an awesome cooling mod to his controller using a CPU cooler mounted under the seat sub-frame:ridethelightning said:the other possibilty is attaching copper heat sinks to the controller, and running thick copper cables off that to the outside air, with sinks on them....or do both
has anyone had sucess with using fans with in-frame controllers? what airflow is needed?
You could also add fans to it if needed, but I don't think this setup really needs it...I ripped the fans off my Mini-E cause it was overkill and loud.
What ever you end up doing, add it to the controller cooling mods thread also:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=70823
Cheers
Similar threads
