Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

Hello.
What thermistor (mounted in the engine) works correctly with adaptto (new midi-e 8kW).
The manufacturer's instructions it is written that KTY83 but forum users say that KTY84 or KTY81.
I do not know which one to buy ? :?
 
Is there a trick to setting up regen braking using a reed switch type brake lever?

I have the max-e RC9. The brake itself does send about +1 volt through the signal wire (I'm pretty sure I have it correctly connected) when the brake is activated, but the controller doesn't enable regen. I am not sure if the voltage is correct so maybe that's the problem... Anybody else have a similar problem?
 
Cresh - think you should really be reading 4v+ if using a typical 'hall' sensor. However you can adjust the 'lower' and 'upper' limits in the Brake Calibration. It'd be very abrupt with only 1v to play with, maybe try a different magnet or see if you can get the sensor/mag closer together :).

If you haven't tinkered in Brake Calibration, the default 'lower' limit is quite high and that'd be why Regen isn't activating currently :).
 
ccmdr said:
Cresh - think you should really be reading 4v+ if using a typical 'hall' sensor. However you can adjust the 'lower' and 'upper' limits in the Brake Calibration. It'd be very abrupt with only 1v to play with, maybe try a different magnet or see if you can get the sensor/mag closer together :).

If you haven't tinkered in Brake Calibration, the default 'lower' limit is quite high and that'd be why Regen isn't activating currently :).
Click to expand...

Yes, that is what is happening. The brake lower limit is way above the mark when I pull the brake. I'll replace the magnet and switch. I was wondering if 1v was incorrect.

Thanks
 
Allex said:
You will get one in the kit.
it is kty84
but kty83 works too.
Click to expand...


Hey Allex

Do you know for a 2wd setup if there is on/off switch for both master and slave controller ? or just on the master?

the diagram i got from adaptto shows only for the master.. so that's what i'm assuming .. i'm wondering if you would know... I really don't want to burn anything!

thanks!!!

-steveo
 
Cresh - Before replacing both, how does regen react if you manually set the lower limit to 0.2v and upper to 1v?
 
Allex said:
ROD, better check the new schematic on their support page, very clear to see on whats going on.
Click to expand...


Thanks Alex.

If anyone's anxious about wiring there BMS then this may help.


Having everything in front of me the battery, BMS in the same direction as the diagram helped for me.
I wired my BMS incorrectly the first time using the old diagram.

I learn by watching then doing it myself. I don't like reading off diagrams.

So I followed this new schematic like Alex advised, it's charging now. Cells are .1 of a volt out after the first ride. The pack was charged to 4.2 volt per cell.

 
Allex said:
You will get one in the kit.
it is kty84
but kty83 works too.
Click to expand...

What temp sensor was included in first kits? If i remember right it was kty81 or 83? I did factory reset and now I dont remember whats right temp sensor.. :oops:
 
Steve, if you use one battery, then you can parallel both on/off switches. If you have two batteries then you need to have two individual switches.
I think old sensor was 83, but it does not really matter, just scroll between all of them and see which one gives most accurate ambient temp
 
These controllers are all hit and miss. I am starting to question their build quality. I have purchased five Max e controllers and only one is working properly. I recently purchased two 14kW max e controllers from Arthur,both did not work out of the box. When turned on, the srceens would only flash intermittently. Contacted adaptto they said they have not seen this problem and does not exist even though Arthur explained that he was having the some problems with some of his new controllers. Well a long story short; a lot of back and forth sending messages and videos they finally said try reflashing. This only worked for one of the controllers the other has only 6.7amp max output. Multiple messages to them with no logical response. Oleg was suppose to reply when he was back in the office. I have not heard a word from them since.
Another max e 12kW controller was working fine after sending it back to them when it did not work brand new out of the box. After one year of use the eco mode now no longer works. Multiple messages are not returned.
Another max e 12kW controller quit working while I was under full throttle. The screen just went blank and nothing turned on again. I sent it back and they said something is wrong with the control board. Oleg explained that it would not be covered under warranty cause a circuit breaker was not used even though I sent him detailed pictures that one was in fact wired in.
 
Greenlight said:
These controllers are all hit and miss. I am starting to question their build quality. I have purchased five Max e controllers and only one is working properly. I recently purchased two 14kW max e controllers from Arthur,both did not work out of the box. When turned on, the srceens would only flash intermittently. Contacted adaptto they said they have not seen this problem and does not exist even though Arthur explained that he was having the some problems with some of his new controllers. Well a long story short; a lot of back and forth sending messages and videos they finally said try reflashing. This only worked for one of the controllers the other has only 6.7amp max output. Multiple messages to them with no logical response. Oleg was suppose to reply when he was back in the office. I have not heard a word from them since.
Another max e 12kW controller was working fine after sending it back to them when it did not work brand new out of the box. After one year of use the eco mode now no longer works. Multiple messages are not returned.
Another max e 12kW controller quit working while I was under full throttle. The screen just went blank and nothing turned on again. I sent it back and they said something is wrong with the control board. Oleg explained that it would not be covered under warranty cause a circuit breaker was not used even though I sent him detailed pictures that one was in fact wired in.
Click to expand...

That does not fill me with confidence. I just received a max-e kit from Artur and have spent the past week and a half (diregarding wife and child) locating everything and wiring up numerous things ready to then switch it on......... Which i have not yet, i just know there is going to be an issue when i do, even though i have checked every bit of soldering and wiring again and again and again. I have to say i was not impressed with the way the package arrived. Everything was loose in a large box rattling around with just a small bit of newspaper and bubble wrap loosely wrapped around all the pieces. The packaging was poor and nothing was in any kind of official adaptto box or any fitted padding. You would have thought that at this price point there would be some kind of boxing solution. I am going to cry if it wont switch on :cry:
 
Bit of a sore spot in the thread but just a reminder, lets not forget that negative things are posted a) in frustration, b) asking for a solution to a problem, c) genuine issue's etc.. If it works, why talk about it, when your likely enjoying it :).

Most ebike users on this forum have had a controller/screen/bms/motor/throttle/pas fault from one manufacture or another. Personally had two crystalyte controllers blow, a LCD-2 screen failure and a mini-e failure (caused by bad CroMotor QA). However, when these things crop up 'generally' the manufacture takes them on board and creates a fix or repairs/helps you repair it. Adaptto is a great product with a couple of flaws, they'll be worked out and I'd like to think as Greenlight has bought in bulk, much like Artur that it's a possible bad production batch, otherwise why do we insist on buying it over again if it's not a great product right :)? Also, a new fault from this mega thread standpoint unless I've missed a post or two?

As for packaging I agree it's not quite so pleasing on the eye as some items you can get, but any gamer will tell you about the price premium for a steel box compared to a cd key. Same product in the end, just different presentation at a premium cost. If people have genuine pictures of damaged goods via poor packaging then fair do's, otherwise stump up more cash for a box with steel braced corners and de-compostable air pockets covering a foam insert just to put it in the cupboard or bin.

In the end they're enthusiasts giving others a decent all round product and taking on repairs fairly trouble free. Personally both setups inc mini-e, bms, display and charging coils work as per. Any faults have been induced by motors, throttles, wiring, water or good old fashioned human error. Enough said.
 
Fair enough, well said. 8) I will take back all my comments once i have fired up my mountain mule with my max-e. As you can probably tell, i am a lttle anxious as this was a big/expensive purchase for me. But i would be pretty pee'd off too if i had a few of these fail on me. But then again, why go back and buy more?
 
Sorry if this is a stupid question but I have started wading through all the Adapto threads etc.., and have used the search function and can't find it. I am about to set up an Adapto with a Crystallite HS40, what are the hall colour combos to line up with an Adapto? ie, which colour wire goes to which number pin on the Adapto?
 
Philistine said:
Sorry if this is a stupid question but I have started wading through all the Adapto threads etc.., and have used the search function and can't find it. I am about to set up an Adapto with a Crystallite HS40, what are the hall colour combos to line up with an Adapto? ie, which colour wire goes to which number pin on the Adapto?
Click to expand...
Wire it up as per the diagram. The same one that i posted a couple of posts above. Its on adapttos website.

http://adaptto.com/Support/

You do not need to match the phase and hall combos.but the halls need to be soldied as per the diagram on the adaptto support page.


When all the wires have been connected as per the colour configuration the first thing that you need to do is an auto detect. Its sets up the controller. This needs to be done with the rear wheel raised off the ground.
 
brumbrum said:
Fair enough, well said. 8) I will take back all my comments once i have fired up my mountain mule with my max-e. As you can probably tell, i am a lttle anxious as this was a big/expensive purchase for me. But i would be pretty pee'd off too if i had a few of these fail on me. But then again, why go back and buy more?
Click to expand...

steady as she goes :)
id wire in a precharge resistor on the positive battery terminal to bridge to controller before plugging in the main lead.

without the phases/hall plug, bms, throttle/brake lead connected, connect the display, plug the neg in, precharge, pos, turn it on(if you have the on/off version) and have a play to get accustomed to it, familiarise yourself with the different screens and settings :wink:
 
ridethelightning said:
brumbrum said:
Fair enough, well said. 8) I will take back all my comments once i have fired up my mountain mule with my max-e. As you can probably tell, i am a lttle anxious as this was a big/expensive purchase for me. But i would be pretty pee'd off too if i had a few of these fail on me. But then again, why go back and buy more?
Click to expand...

steady as she goes :)
id wire in a precharge resistor on the positive battery terminal to bridge to controller before plugging in the main lead.

without the phases/hall plug, bms, throttle/brake lead connected, connect the display, plug the neg in, precharge, pos, turn it on(if you have the on/off version) and have a play to get accustomed to it, familiarise yourself with the different screens and settings :wink:
Click to expand...


Which precharge resistor do you use.
 
ridethelightning said:
brumbrum said:
Fair enough, well said. 8) I will take back all my comments once i have fired up my mountain mule with my max-e. As you can probably tell, i am a lttle anxious as this was a big/expensive purchase for me. But i would be pretty pee'd off too if i had a few of these fail on me. But then again, why go back and buy more?
Click to expand...

steady as she goes :)
id wire in a precharge resistor on the positive battery terminal to bridge to controller before plugging in the main lead.

without the phases/hall plug, bms, throttle/brake lead connected, connect the display, plug the neg in, precharge, pos, turn it on(if you have the on/off version) and have a play to get accustomed to it, familiarise yourself with the different screens and settings :wink:
Click to expand...


Yeah, i think i actually will put in a precharge. I have a resistor here, i think it is 100ohm 10w. Better safe than sorry.
 
Philistine said:
Sorry if this is a stupid question but I have started wading through all the Adapto threads etc.., and have used the search function and can't find it. I am about to set up an Adapto with a Crystallite HS40, what are the hall colour combos to line up with an Adapto? ie, which colour wire goes to which number pin on the Adapto?
Click to expand...

Have a look on adapttos website in the support menu and download the manual. It tells you the 'traditional' combination on page 8
Yellow = pin 1
Green = pin 2
Blue = pin 3
temp sensor output = pin 4
Ground and second temp sensor wire = pin 5
positive terminal= pin 6
 
Hey Guys,

Just came across the same issue. I have a Stealth Bomber in for repair at MiCycles - Adelaide Electric Bikes.

I have worked on this beast before and fitted an Adaptto Controller with a Cromotor.
After repairs and brake upgrade, I fired it up and got the 'Halls!' at the top of the display.
Hall supply voltage from the controller - 2.8V
Ran a jumper lead from the USB and voila! back to normal.

Is this a relatively easy fix inside the controller.
Is there anyone in Australia repairing these otherwise fantastic controllers?

Any help will be greatly appreciated,
Cheers
MiCycles
 
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