Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

GmagNeato said:
brumbrum said:
The multistar 4s 16ah bricks were tested by icecube57 as being able to sustain a 4C discharge without significant voltage drop and also be able to stay above 3.6v for the whole discharge and get the full 16ah capacity from them.
The 4s 10ah multistars (which i have) did not fair quite as well with a recommendation of 2.5C discharge from icecube when he did extensive tests with them.

So the 4C discharge would be continuous, no? Momentary bursts should allow higher c rating. For instance, I have my Boost settings maxed out. Even when I'm riding pretty hard, my average amps are around 50-60. When I'm accelerating up to speed (for just a few seconds :mrgreen: ) it does exceed 100amps but then drops right back down to the 30-50 range to maintain, depending on that cruise speed and the incline. So terrain is also another big factor when choosing these settings/limitations.

Terrain is definately a massive factor as you say. Stop/starting accelerating for say off road use will take its toll a lot more than road riding where amps tend to settle down much quicker.
 
Sorry, my fault. I meant 20s, 5p. But I'm not sure about the 5p if they are correct. I have 5 Multistar 4s,2p ; 14,8v, 16Ah LiPo Packs in Series. This gives me 74v at 3,7v/cell and 82v with 4,1v fully charged. 
Another fault from my side: I have not a 1841Wh, but 1184Wh battery pack (1312Wh fully charged). Switched some numbers by mistake hehe.. Oops..^^
I have also read about the max discharge rate of 10c, but even the comments from the hobbyking website say that a current discharge of 10c is not possible without letting the Packs grill your butt inside your frame. Being paranoid about LiPo Packs after reading some horror posts on the web, I decided to not go over 4c. 
I once discharged my 5LiPo packs down to 2,5v, the highest voltage was 2,9v by mistake, because I let my controller stay on after riding the cells down to 3v, I am now curious if I ever can take 10c with these packs once again or not. What do you guys think? 
~Elias
 
I am still confused that the power supply goes only slowly up to the max current. How can I change that? 4c / 4kW would be already enough for me if I could then finally use them even at 0km/h and, or when slowly moving. And not, like described only when I have reached higher speeds.. :/
 
If you have the 16ah multistars, and you have wired them to have 16ah capacity then the max current i would run would be 64a.
So again..
IbA: 64
IpA: 200 to 250
Acc: ---

If you pull 160a (10C discharge) from your 16ah multistar its going to get bloody hot and will ruin the battery.
 
DasDouble said:
I am still confused that the power supply goes only slowly up to the max current. How can I change that? 4c / 4kW would be already enough for me if I could then finally use them even at 0km/h and, or when slowly moving. And not, like described only when I have reached higher speeds.. :/

Have you tried the settings that have been suggested?
 
brumbrum said:
GmagNeato said:
brumbrum said:
The multistar 4s 16ah bricks were tested by icecube57 as being able to sustain a 4C discharge without significant voltage drop and also be able to stay above 3.6v for the whole discharge and get the full 16ah capacity from them.
The 4s 10ah multistars (which i have) did not fair quite as well with a recommendation of 2.5C discharge from icecube when he did extensive tests with them.

So the 4C discharge would be continuous, no? Momentary bursts should allow higher c rating. For instance, I have my Boost settings maxed out. Even when I'm riding pretty hard, my average amps are around 50-60. When I'm accelerating up to speed (for just a few seconds :mrgreen: ) it does exceed 100amps but then drops right back down to the 30-50 range to maintain, depending on that cruise speed and the incline. So terrain is also another big factor when choosing these settings/limitations.

Terrain is definately a massive factor as you say. Stop/starting accelerating for say off road use will take its toll a lot more than road riding where amps tend to settle down much quicker.

Good point Brum. I don't do much off roading so my perspective is slanted towards road use. I also admittedly have no experience with the Multistars. The Turnigys I use are "rated" for 40 to 80c. But it's a bigger pack (28ah) so the max I pull is about 5c from them for as long as the motor can take it and they don't even get warm. One of the beautiful things about this forum is getting so much input and feedback from different perspectives and experience! :)
 
brumbrum said:
If you have the 16ah multistars, and you have wired them to have 16ah capacity then the max current i would run would be 64a.
So again..
IbA: 64
IpA: 200 to 250
Acc: ---

If you pull 160a (10C discharge) from your 16ah multistar its going to get bloody hot and will ruin the battery.

If this is the case I would look at doubling your capacity (if it will fit) or going with a higher c rating battery to fully utilize the max e's potential :) These are really more Mini/Midi E settings.
 
No, I haven't tried these settings yet, as I am on vacation right now.. Means a couple of hundreds of kilometers from my Bike away:( (I really miss it and I am curious if the LiPos have already burned my house down lol :S)

Yes, I'm thinking about doubling the pack since I have bought the first one. The only problem is now the decision where to make the investigation. A double LiPo would be cheap and good for the time you want to use it, but on the other hand I think about long life investigation, if you know what I mean. 
I have to decide now, between:


Another 1.184Wh LiPo Pack, +16 Ah = 74v x (2 x 16Ah) = 2368Wh = 10.240 Watt (4c)
-Calculate-able 300 charging cycles = 1 - ~1.5 year life time expecting, maybe a bit more
-Making the owner (me) paranoid because of higher risk of burning down your city because no idea what reason
+light (I don't give a flux)
++Price: DIY 500,-€


A Panasonic PF, 2.5kWh, 18650 Pack
+expecting longer lifetime 
++makes the owner (yes, still me lol) happy that the risk of burning Germany down is not that high anymore :mrgreen:
-Not as light as LiPo but that is nothing important to me
-~1000€, not DIY. 
-literally destroying 250€ because I don't need the old 1.184Wh LiPo Pack anymore. 

How would you guys decide? :/
 
Your existing pack of multistars will easily deliver 8c PEAK's without immolating or having much of an effect on longevity. You will be able to easily peak 9kw without issues taking voltage sag etc into consideration.

Constant discharge is the rating under question, this is unlikely to be an issue unless you plan on cruising at 85km/h+ over hilly terrain. You do not need to limit your current to your constant discharge rating, that's what your throttle is for. Don't run full throttle for long periods of time and you'll be fine. Frankly you're likely to smoke the motor before you smoke the batteries with 1 kw/h+.

The setting you most need to change is phase amps. Set this to 250 and re-test.

There is a LOT of hyperbole about lipo batteries and fires on these forums, it's a confirmation bias - if it happens to one person then 100 more will talk about it, giving the perception that there's a substantial chance that your pack is going to spontaneously combust. This is simply not true, multistars have proven to be reasonably reliable and very cost effective. The key thing here is that this is for undamaged cells - if you've got loose packs rattling round in a chassis with spiky protrusions then there's definitely a chance things will go wrong. Have them appropriately connected with a well designed harness, insulated and isolated from knocks and intrusion and you'll be fine.

Before you go thinking about what comes next, thrash these packs for a year and get your moneys worth. You'll have a better idea of what you're really looking for (more range? more power?) and be in a better educated position with some miles under your belt.
 
Alright, thanks for all the comments until here. 
Another thing I want to become true:
I want to build my eaton charger into my Vector. 
How can I manage that without risking the functionality of the controller? I think I have managed to destroy one controller once by letting the charging coil be connected with the Max-E while riding. How ever this has activated 'protective mode' why I had to send the MaxE to Adaptto for repair. At least I think that this has been the reason. 
I would like to mount the charger if possible, under the moto seat of my vector frame to let the the heat outside of the frame so I can charge my battery's with no worry also in the German summer temperature. The cable is getting rolled up, just like on a vacuumer.
 
But is it theoretically possible for the Adaptto to have a psu unit / charging coil plugged while riding or not? I will buy another psu if the eaton is not good enough for it. Well it would not matter if it is outdoor or indoor. There won't get any mud to it, don't worry. The only difference will be the temperature, air condition and vibration. 
 
Sure it is possible but Stationary PSUs are not designed to sustain vibrations, so while it will work, no one knows for how long. You can always have a switch that you operate before riding/charging.
 
So I've been having an issue with my screen blinking when I turn the controller on with my keyswitch. It's done it on 2 separate occasions so far.

The first time, I tried turning it off and on several times, and each time the screen would just blink at me with a black line going across the middle, but it wouldn't turn on. So, with it turned on and still blinking (it blinks about every 3 seconds or so) I twisted the throttle just a bit and whala! Back in business.

Then it happened again about a week later, but this time the throttle trick didn't work. So I left it alone for about 20 minutes and when I came back and turned it on it fired right up. :shock:

So I contacted Adaptto support about the issue. Oleg responded in less than 24 hours and stated this was a known issue and to flash to the newest firmware to fix. A note about Adaptto support - It's FANTASTIC. This is the second time I've contacted them, and they've responded promptly both times and were very helpful and courteous.

So I'm finally going to flash, and I'm wondering, has anyone had any issues to report with the newest firmware?
 
bigbore said:
Now I have the latest RC9G4 firmware, what are for the following parameters?
Advanced Setup
Angle correct2
PWR timing2

Which FW version did you have before? With 9G2 FW the Angle correct2 and PWR timing2 were only for if you are using Active regen mode. Otherwise leave them at zero.
 
anyone knows why my adaptto temp show 10°c above real temps?! :D

if i watch in the morning before starting on MOSFET and Motor temp, they have 10°c difference.
MOSFET looks real because my bike is in the house and 20-22° ambient fits.

motor show me allready 30/31°c

i have insert the thermistor what i got from adaptto (KTY84)
 
Merlin said:
anyone knows why my adaptto temp show 10°c above real temps?! :D

if i watch in the morning before starting on MOSFET and Motor temp, they have 10°c difference.
MOSFET looks real because my bike is in the house and 20-22° ambient fits.

motor show me allready 30/31°c

i have insert the thermistor what i got from adaptto (KTY84)

+1
Me 2
 
Hi all, been following you all here for a little over a year now. Seem like a lovely and helpful community. =)

I guess you can see this as my real first post, the other ones were just in the Items For Sale-forums.

But now to my question, I recently begun a new build that will be composed of a Adaptto Midi-E, and a Leafbike 35mm motor that will be mounted in Futr Beta frame.

The problem I have is that the motor responds to heavily to the throttle movement. Theres a jolt when I begin to apply the throttle (if not very slowly) and theres a really big jolt if I suddenly release it. I believe Jonboy had the same issue a while back, but I cant seem to find if he solved it.

I tried all I can think of. Speed and Torq mode. Calibrated the throttle multiple time, (both for start/stop and linear)
Reran the auto detection, tried another throttle with exactly the same result.

The only thing that I seen “solve” the problem is if I switch to SLESS or SQWAV as control method. But thats not something I want to do. :/

Worth mentioning as well is that running the motor freely, I can’t get it to run below 35km/h (in any mode Eco/Normal/Boost). I don’t know how big diffrence putting load on it will affect this, but to me it seems a little high. And when releasing the throttle slowly (to avoid the jolt) the response doesn’t seem at all like it was drawn during calibration. The motor continuous at the same speed almost till its fully released. It not like it just switches of, but the range with throttle variation is extremely short.

Ideas and suggestions appreciated.
 
kundvagn said:
Hi all, been following you all here for a little over a year now. Seem like a lovely and helpful community. =)

I guess you can see this as my real first post, the other ones were just in the Items For Sale-forums.

But now to my question, I recently begun a new build that will be composed of a Adaptto Midi-E, and a Leafbike 35mm motor that will be mounted in Futr Beta frame.

The problem I have is that the motor responds to heavily to the throttle movement. Theres a jolt when I begin to apply the throttle (if not very slowly) and theres a really big jolt if I suddenly release it. I believe Jonboy had the same issue a while back, but I cant seem to find if he solved it.

I tried all I can think of. Speed and Torq mode. Calibrated the throttle multiple time, (both for start/stop and linear)
Reran the auto detection, tried another throttle with exactly the same result.

The only thing that I seen “solve” the problem is if I switch to SLESS or SQWAV as control method. But thats not something I want to do. :/

Worth mentioning as well is that running the motor freely, I can’t get it to run below 35km/h (in any mode Eco/Normal/Boost). I don’t know how big diffrence putting load on it will affect this, but to me it seems a little high. And when releasing the throttle slowly (to avoid the jolt) the response doesn’t seem at all like it was drawn during calibration. The motor continuous at the same speed almost till its fully released. It not like it just switches of, but the range with throttle variation is extremely short.

Ideas and suggestions appreciated.

Hi this is a statement from the adaptto manual... Section:2.3.3 "Jolt felt when applying or releasing the throttle or brake
Typically, this problem occurs when the values for the active engine braking settings as well as Wire R PHC are not right. To resolve this problem, you must perform a full Autodetect cycle and check that all the settings associated with active braking are displayed correctly".

I think Jonboy changed the Wire R PHC in advanced settings(page 4) to 'Yes' (it has a default setting of No). But iirc i think this was to solve a jolt when braking?
 
Thanks brumbrum, never thought that it would that common that it could be found in the manual. :oops:

Tried to enable Wire R PHC, but then the motor at its highest speed began "jolting" courteously. Full power, no power, full power, no power, I guess 5 times per second. So even worse for me. :cry:
And non of the other active braking settings seem to affect it either.

I have since then reset the controller an rerun the auto-detection a couple of times. Last time without the jolt when releasing the throttle. But the top speed was 50km/h instead of 74km/h as before.
Looking thru the settings generated by auto detect, one that caught my was OVS that was at zero. Tried increasing it to 4 as it was before, and sure I got the speed back.... but also the release-throttle-jolt. :roll:
But uncertain if I should blame it on the OVS or the speed itself. :|

Anyway will try a adjusting the settings some more, and hopefullt solve it.
 
So I'm setting up my first Adaptto controller, and I ran across an initial set-up and testing issue that has managed to blow MOSFET's on two separate controllers (which I sent back to Adaptto for repair) and then on one of the repaired controllers yet again.

I'm pretty sure I have finally nailed down the root cause, and I wanted to share my profound idiocy with any other poor sap who may be so inclined to test as I do... :oops:

The issue (Blowing a MOSFET) arise when you have the following conditions:

1. Using a reed switch/standard ebrake lever (Non-variable regen set-up)
2. Forgetting to change the Regen Setting to "Smooth"
3. Subsequently testing the regen braking function on my test stand with the wheel in the air.

So what happens?...

Normally, (if "Smooth" regen brake function is not activated), the regen brake force is determined by a Hall effect signal (such as an HE throttle) to vary the voltage from +1.0V (Low braking force) to +4.2V (High braking force). However, due to how the "switch type" ebrake levers are wired, using a switch style ebrake lever will send a +5V signal back to the controller, effectively telling it "Brake Hard MFer!". Because that's exactly what my spinning MXUS 3K-Turbo motor did when I pulled on the ebrake lever. It slammed hard to a stop, and the controller ceased to work, showing now the "PROTECT" error when I turn the throttle. I know a FET is blown, because the motor wheel has a good amount of resistance when trying to turn it by hand, when the phases are connected to the controller. :cry:

For the record, I do this test frequently, with all the other controllers I build with, but since they are designed for standard switch ebrake signals, I have never had this issue come up before.

Perhaps Someone may want to add this to the list of "Don't be a dumb-ass and do this when setting up your controller" list on the user manual. Or maybe I should have RTFM more carefully.
 
Where do you guys buy from Adaptto controllers from? I contacted Vector, and they are sold out of the Max-E, and won't have stock for like another 1-1.5 months. Which sucks.

I might end up having to go with a Sabvoton + CA3 + Custom BMS, if I can't get my hands on an Adaptto Max-E. It is a nice controller, but I like the all-in-one of the Adaptto and that it actually fits on a Raptor 140 frame, the Sabvoton is 6mm too wide, which could be problematic.
 
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