Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[ridethelightning]

hey sako.
those psus of yours are very much like mine that i tried before.

i could charge ok but not very fast and the adaptto /coil got quite hot.

for higher voltage pacs,eg. 22s ,(which i suspect youll be using) the psu needs to be more like 48-60v, closer to pack voltage for better results....

 

[sacko]

Thanks, I did wonder if that would be the case. I am using 20s 84v lipo on this build, aiming to charge at 10amps.

Those ESP120s dont seem to be readily available in the UK.

 

[ridethelightning]

thers one called an Eaton, mentioned earlier in the other adaptto thread,that andrey has for sale very small, light as a feather 3000W

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=58190&p=901197&hilit=eaton+psu#p901197

my friend willow got a couple from andrey second hand for 200usd each.

im not sure if this is the exact one willow has as the specs are different....but it looks like this

you can also get them from other suppliers here in Aus but they are around 300+

thats what id be after if i diddnt already have a psu.

 

[crea2k]

Cool thanks for the link, il get some for my packs.

 

[crea2k]

Thanks, I did wonder if that would be the case. I am using 20s 84v lipo on this build, aiming to charge at 10amps.

Those ESP120s dont seem to be readily available in the UK.

They crop up on ebay quite frequently, there was one on there last week I posted up for someone else, if you search by the part number 253232-001 , it brings more results. There are a few shipping from the USA with quite cheap postage. I got mine from the UK for about £35 I think, just keep an eye on ebay as there are always some being listed, when I bought mine there was three listed.

 

[sacko]

Thanks, ill keep having a look.

£35 is a bargain for that sort of setup, it's a shame there aren't any smaller and more portable devices on the market.

 

[crea2k]

There you go, thats one in the UK :
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HP-226519-001-BL-P-Class-3000-Watt-Power-Supply-/300776578055?pt=UK_Computing_NetworkSwitches_RL&hash=item4607ae5c07

or these ones from the USA are even cheaper :
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-HP-ESP120-POWER-SUPPLY-226519-001-FROM-WORKING-UNIT-253232-001-/261606783227?pt=US_Server_Power_Supplies&hash=item3ce8fab8fb

 

[crea2k]

Thats how you wire it up and jumper / solder the pins to activate it

 

[ridethelightning]

those look larger/heavier than the other ones iv seen.good for at home.

the ones Andrey was selling nearly fit in your pocket, weigh just 1.5 kg or something.

 

[crea2k]

Yer the ESP120 is rather large, iv seen the ones Aundrey uses, I think his are blade server psu's by the looks of them, possibly compaq ones.

 

[crea2k]

Thats mine :

 

[Allex]

That HP PSU is huge.
I prefer Eaton ~50V30A

Or CAR1248FP SERIES that I have @ 55V30A
You can just tuck those in your backpack due to small size.

 

[crea2k]

Holy crap that is tiny !, will have to look into one of those, the good thing about the HP one it is good for home as its 57A @ 48 volts, so charges the pack from flat in just over an hour.

 

[ridethelightning]

the best iv seen so far are the ones willow got from Andrey. they are almost the same size as allex's black one there, but 3000W.

ill try to get the exact model number from willow soon.

iv got the exact same as Allex's there, for my 22s10p 20R pack the most i seem to be able to charge at with it is 16A, -1300watts

which is oddas it should go to 1500watts (50x30)

perhaps a fair bit of the power is converted into heat which the fans are blowing away....

 

[crea2k]

Mines supposed to be able to push out 57A, but the most I see is about 33A, it sounds like an aircraft taking off when the fans spin up lol.

 

[Allex]

the best iv seen so far are the ones willow got from Andrey. they are almost the same size as allex's black one there, but 3000W.

ill try to get the exact model number from willow soon.

iv got the exact same as Allex's there, for my 22s10p 20R pack the most i seem to be able to charge at with it is 16A, -1300watts

which is oddas it should go to 1500watts (50x30)

perhaps a fair bit of the power is converted into heat which the fans are blowing away....

Experiment with supply vdrop under charge menu. try setting it to 4-5volt.
Also, use the trimpot on on PSU to gain voltage, maximum is around 55V - you will have better efficiency.

 

[ridethelightning]

thanks Allex. will continue tinkering

iv already adjusted the trimpot to max and have also played with the vdrop settings, no conclusive improvement as yet, ill try again.

 

[Mammalian04]

Creak, is that just hot glue that you have used to protect the terminals on the back of the power supply? I have a similar supply and may try that.

Cheers

 

[GCinDC]

while we're on the subject, allex asked me to add this updated image to the guide. until i do, here it is:

thanks, allex.

 

[crea2k]

Creak, is that just hot glue that you have used to protect the terminals on the back of the power supply? I have a similar supply and may try that.

Cheers

Yes it's just hot glue, works fine as it gets no where near hot enough to melt it.

 

[Mammalian04]

Creak, is that just hot glue that you have used to protect the terminals on the back of the power supply? I have a similar supply and may try that.

Cheers

Yes it's just hot glue, works fine as it gets no where near hot enough to melt it.

Perfect, thanks!

 

[Allex]

A few tips and tricks:
We recorded a few cases where controller burned due to wrong actions and (or) the old firmware. When you charge with and older firmware for several hours, like 8. This is now fixed with the new Firmware.

For safe charging you need:
1) Flash controller to the latest firmware
2) Before connecting the charger set controller to charging mode (left-up of the main screen)
3) Connect the charger
4) Connect the charger to a wall outlet
5) When finished, disconnect the charger from the wall outlet
6) Disconnect the charger from the controller.
7) Exit charge mode(button "down" on the screen of charge)
Paragraphs 3.4 and 5.6 can be swapped, but it is better to do it like above.

And about the new versions being slower on acceleration. This is because older version like rc7b did not limit phase current at the exact set value. So if you did set 250 it overshoot by 50, meaning you actually had 300.

Also, the new firmware will have support for PAS. But DC-DC mode will only be available in the unlocked version.

 

[Metallover]

I got my Max-E working finally!!

It turns out I had a bad connection in the hall sensor/temp sensor connector on my Max-E.

I opened up the controller and saw nothing was blown up. All of what I believe were the protective resistors all measured the same. I plugged it into the bike and lone behold, when I applied 0V or 5V to the three hall inputs straight on the PCB, they all worked!

I repaired the connection. My throttle is still cutting out, I have to repair that too. Occasionally I get a !BMS! error, which leads me to believe that connector is flaky too. I have concluded the connectors on the Max-E are pretty poor in quality.











Where that plug comes into the Max-E. Red=5V Black=GND purple=temp sensor green,yellow,orange = 3 hall inputs. Note the three resistors "318" I believe are the protective resistors. Crea2k pointed them out to me.




As a EE student, I love the design of the controller!

 

[Brake]

Thanks for the charging info update Allex. Can't wait to try this out!

 

[ridethelightning]

@metallover
good to hear you got a couple things sorted.

i notice the BMS error signal can be perhaps caused by glitch in older versions of firmware, although, i have the old RC7b version and so far no issues with that.
i think int was mentioned here on the russian forum...http://electrotransport.ru/ussr/index.php?msg=316466


the only issue iv had so far has been that sometimes(more often lately)after starting charge for a minute or so,the charge current will ramp back down low or even off, well before the battery is full. this can be fixed by re-starting the charge(turning the psu off and on again)and its back to normal again

could be fault of my settings in the charge setup,suply v drop etc. or(less likely) the psu, so not sure if its the controller or not at this stage....

im now considering updating to the latest firmware version to get some new features, like the anti-theif,10k thermistor, updated charge screen etc etc.and hopefully to fix the glitch with the charge.
but am not 100% sure its going to work with no issues :|
anybody out there flashed the latest version and had any trouble?
any feedback much appreciated


good to see they have been working quite hard on improving it the firmware, with all the updates so far.