AliExpress battery pack unboxing (for my eZuma project)

[flippy]

you can replace hall sensors with ones with a different scale, so usually its better to get a logarithmic then a linear one as you gain more control on the low end but lose on the higher end.
same goes with pots.

 

[MJSfoto1956]

Here is how I mounted the AliExpress cable-operated throttle + hall throttle to my bike:



Still waiting on my controller to arrive...

 

[madin88]

Still waiting on my controller to arrive...

Why do you wait for a controller to arrive was there a problem with the actual one?
Or do you try something different?

 

[MJSfoto1956]

Why do you wait for a controller to arrive was there a problem with the actual one?
Or do you try something different?

Both.

 

[bigdeezs]

What controller did you get?

 

[MJSfoto1956]

What controller did you get?

Let’s see how things play out...

 

[MJSfoto1956]

So the APT AE96600 controller that recently arrived from QSmotor is a keeper and both much more powerful as well as smoother running than my previous controller. Notwithstanding, I really like the PowerVelocity Bluetooth iPhone app with all its great functions -- so what do do? Well, I'm going to add some custom electronics to my mix so that I can get the PowerVelocity Bluetooth app to work in "read only" mode. Here's the wiring diagram. Just need to order the various bits and pieces.



Note: the 1A glass fuses are an insurance policy to prevent any "accidental" 72V power from reaching anything else. For those wondering why I'm doing this: 72V will arc through common auto blade fuses, basically making a fire. Glass fuses like this won't arc.

 

[flippy]

Would be even better if you used sillica filled (HRC) ones. Glass ones tend to be on the explody side when subjected to the comical power levels you can get with lipo.

 

[john61ct]

I've always used Class T, MRBF, or ANL type fuses for high currents.

 

[john61ct]

I really like the PowerVelocity Bluetooth iPhone app with all its great functions -- so what do do? Well, I'm going to add some custom electronics to my mix so that I can get the PowerVelocity Bluetooth app to work in "read only" mode. Here's the wiring diagram.

Be sure to check on the accuracy of the shunt reading before and after putting the fuses in the path, V drop is likely to have an amplified effect there?

 

[MJSfoto1956]

Be sure to check on the accuracy of the shunt reading before and after putting the fuses in the path, V drop is likely to have an amplified effect there?

This is news to me -- can you shed some more light here?

Thx
M

 

[fechter]

Be sure to check on the accuracy of the shunt reading before and after putting the fuses in the path, V drop is likely to have an amplified effect there?

This is news to me -- can you shed some more light here?

Thx
M

The current in the shunt sensing wires is very low, so the added resistance from fuses should not be a problem. Shunts are frequently located remotely from the meter and use pretty skinny wire (resistance). Still worth checking.

 

[john61ct]

The way shunts work, they are only as accurate as the voltage read by the "translation" gadget.

Many BMs now put those electronics attached right at the shunt itself, and then comm over the already "interpreted" current measurement, could even be wireless.

 

[MJSfoto1956]

So some of the parts came in last night. I happened to have a small piece of 1/4" HDPE lying around so mounting the two main components was easy: some slots for the two zip ties that hold the shunt in place and two M6 tapped threads to mount the fuses. Et voilá!



The hope is to be able to wire it up this weekend and located it within the waterproof junction box mounted in the floorboard which you can see in the lower right in photo below. That will be a good place for the PV Bluetooth adapter.

 

[999zip999]

Sorry ? You had a P.V.
controller and it was noisy ? That QS controller is huge. And how many fets ?

 

[MJSfoto1956]

You had a P.V. controller and it was noisy ?

I never said it was noisy. I just said that this APT controller is smoother and more powerful. Noticeably so.

 

[fechter]

That controller looks like a beast. :thumb:

I'd be interested in learning more about that one. Do they have a web site?

 

[MJSfoto1956]

That controller looks like a beast. :thumb:

I'd be interested in learning more about that one. Do they have a web site?

LarsB did a thorough review of this AE96600 controller and came away disappointed. I, on the other hand, am totally happy with this controller for use with my scooter. Different strokes I guess. Here's a link: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/APT-AE96600-600A-72V-96V-8kW_60302329295.html

P.S. it is a beast. It weighs 16.4lbs. Not recommended for an eBike. A better fit for an eMotorcycle or eScooter or even an eGolfCart.

 

[999zip999]

Oh and how many fets ? On both ?

 

[MJSfoto1956]

Oh and how many fets ? On both ?

No idea. Not interested in opening it up either. Ask LarsB. He knows this beast inside and out.

 

[999zip999]

The P.V. is 18fet and QS is 24fet. My guess. Good luck and keep up with your pack.

 

[MJSfoto1956]

The P.V. is 18fet and QS is 24fet. My guess. Good luck and keep up with your pack.

The PowerVelocity I had was 24fet as per their website: http://powervelocity.com/home/58-24...oller-android-ios-bluetooth-programmable.html

I might add: some 12fet controllers can handle more power than some 24fet controllers. The # of Mosfets is not necessarily the best indicator of potential.

 

[MJSfoto1956]

So the wiring came together in no time.
Next up: find a place within my crowded junction box for this puppy.



Note: I plan on wrapping the exposed terminals with clear silicone tape to lessen any chance of chafing.

 

[flippy]

And replace those fuses.....

 

[MJSfoto1956]

And replace those fuses.....

Oh I like explody things!

P.S. On your advice I just ordered some ceramic fuses from China and will take a couple of weeks to get here.