Animalector's Ebike Builds

[Animalector]

Wiring is almost done. Have anti spark connector wired to the 100A breaker and the charging connector (via a 30amp fuse). Then To a massive 150a Anderson for connection to controller. Pre charge button wired across the circuit breaker. Using 1k, 5watt resistor.

All that is left is the Anderson onto the controller leads then test.

 

[Animalector]

Done. And it runs. I've only fired it up once, and not yet taken it for a test ride, I have to setup the CAV3 with the right settings, the pole count etc is wrong and giving readings of like 500km/h and therefore the throttle is doing crazy things with the speed limiting functions..

anyways I am pretty happy, I'll take some photos before I hide all the wires away, so you can see what's going on.

Andy

 

[Animalector]

tired....

View attachment 3
View attachment 2



[youtube]epCl-zRyGfk[/youtube]
[youtube]a_cHbQbs3AI[/youtube]

 

[litespeed]

Looking forward to hearing more.

Tom

 

[Animalector]

*giggles* hehehehehe... limited to 3kw.. was cautious with the throttle and didn't just flatten it.... so I started to wind it out but ran out of road... 55km/h top speed so far but it's got more in it for sure. I'll test it out over the weekend

[youtube]_ty_2wI89JM[/youtube]

 

[sacko]

The weekend, I can't wait that long!

Looking good so far, and the motor sounds pretty promising.

 

[Cresh]

Looks great! I couldn't tell from the photos - how did you pinch the seat post together onto the frame?

 

[Animalector]

There is one of those seat post spacers in there where the fastening bolt is located. Only cost a few $ off eBay but I saw a31.8mm post at a local bike shop for $15 so I might go buy that one.
Andy

 

[Samd]

Nice work Andy!

 

[trevc2]

Nice! Congrats on your build, I'm sure you'll have a lot of fun with that bike.

You will need at least 6kw though... go on These days, I can't get my fix with anything less.

Cheers

 

[Animalector]

You will need at least 6kw though

Hey thanks for the comments. I'll raise the CAV3 power limit from 3kw to 5kw this weekend and give it a run.
There's a few things I need to do first:
1. Remove and finish countersinking the front brake bolts. then put some med strength loctite on them so they don't rattle loose.
2. Remove the Cranks tighten the bottom bracket
3. reinstall cranks - tighten
4. apply loctite to schlumph gear-change buttons and tighten
4.5 Enable Regen for rear braking
5. Install lower covers
6. flush mount the breaker / pre-charge button on top of the covers
7. Install grommets
8. put automotive door trimming around the covers to semi-"seal" them against water ingress.

Want to do items 1-4 at least before riding it again, as I hit about 60km/h last night and with only front brakes I want to make sure I can stop. Probably should enable regen too.. might look into that as well.. call it item 4.5
Andy

 

[zombiess]

You will need at least 6kw though... go on These days, I can't get my fix with anything less.

6kw? That's kinda week for this frame. Even with a Cromotor I can just barely get the bike to power wheelie with 12.5kw 100V@150A At this power level the balance is very nice. Easy to control the front end rise, but you still have to help it up by weight shifting to get it to rise.

 

[Animalector]

hmm.. I have a 100A breaker, the batteries are NCM, rated to deliver 5C (max) it is a 30Ah pack..

So, I "could" up the amps but currently with a 18FET controller best I think I could do it, 80Amps?? so around 5.6KW.. Zombiess this is one of your modded controllers so what do you think I could push through it??

With a new controller i could probably do 150Amps absolute Max, so 70V x 150A is 10.5kw.. at best.. I'm not trying to do wheelies, so perhaps 5kw is a good reliable place to be

Andy

 

[trevc2]

I'm running 6kw ish on a bike that's probably more than 10kg lighter (HT3525 @ 24s). For my next build based on a Cromotor, I'm going to do at least 140a from the battery and somewhere in between 250-350a phase to satisfy the hunger.

As you start to gain experience (which really shouldn't be rushed at all), you'll only want more power. If you don't have years of cycling or MC experience already, 5kw is probably a good power level to practice on.

hmm.. I have a 100A breaker, the batteries are NCM, rated to deliver 5C (max) it is a 30Ah pack..

So, I "could" up the amps but currently with a 18FET controller best I think I could do it, 80Amps?? so around 5.6KW.. Zombiess this is one of your modded controllers so what do you think I could push through it??

With a new controller i could probably do 150Amps absolute Max, so 70V x 150A is 10.5kw.. at best.. I'm not trying to do wheelies, so perhaps 5kw is a good reliable place to be

Andy

 

[Animalector]

plenty of moto experience.
DT100 (1970's) learning
Yamaha DT200 (2 stroke) fun
Kawasaki KR1-S 250 2 stroke road bike
Yamaha YZF 750R road bike
Suzuki DR600 (boring)
Suzuki RMX250 2 stroke (awesome)

I'll see how it runs on 5kw. then decide if I need more grunt.

Andy

 

[trevc2]

plenty of moto experience.
DT100 (1970's) learning
Yamaha DT200 (2 stroke) fun
Kawasaki KR1-S 250 2 stroke road bike
Yamaha YZF 750R road bike
Suzuki DR600 (boring)
Suzuki RMX250 2 stroke (awesome)
...

Well, in that case you better start being extra nice to your wife so she's happy with the new controller purchase you're going to be making

Max-E sine-wave would be more appropriate for the bike, quieter too.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37377

 

[Animalector]

thanks but no... the choice of an 18FET was intentional to limit how crazy I went with power... it would be nice, but what I might do is at some later date, build a short range high power with LiPo..
I'm waiting to see zelenavozilla's mid drive... Greyborg-middrive would be sweet. I'd build one of those with 24S 10Ah for some fun. maybe even BMX rims to keep it light. But that is not on the cards yet. finish this and ride it around for a while...

Andy

 

[Animalector]

upped the current.. >5000W



not totally happy with the braking performance. they are new brakes, perhaps they are wearing in...
Hope so... I want to be able to stop. it gets to 60km/h quickly... need to be able to slow down just as quickly..

 

[zombiess]

upped the current.. >5000W
View attachment 1

Shorten up those power feed wires ASAP. At the minimum unloop them. You just installed an inductor in your battery feed line, this is VERY bad.

 

[Animalector]

yeah it was meant to be a temporary solution until I figured out where best to place the breaker switch. easier to shorten a cable than to lengthen it... that said.. how best to manage the cable inside if I don't loop it?

Oh and doesn't look like the controller had 60A limit.. perhaps 80Amps...

I'm thinking I need a handle bar mounted on/off switch to a bank of fets with an active pre-charge control then I can keep everything short and tidy under the hood.

actually I need a replacement shock.. how much you selling the fastace ones for? with shipping to Aus?

Andy

 

[Animalector]

1. Remove and finish countersinking the front brake bolts. then put some med strength loctite on them so they don't rattle loose. DONE
2. Remove the Cranks tighten the bottom bracket DONE
3. reinstall cranks - tighten DONE
4. apply loctite to schlumph gear-change buttons and tighten DONE
4.5 Enable Regen for rear braking TODO
5. Install lower covers DONE
6. flush mount the breaker / pre-charge button on top of the covers TODO
7. Install grommets TODO
8. put automotive door trimming around the covers to semi-"seal" them against water ingress. TODO $$$$$$

 

[Animalector]

I did my first ride outside of my street today. 7km each way to the squash courts.. the way there I was "restrained" using the CA setting of "economy" my intent was to set it for 250W to be "legal" but this is a joke..

So I set it to 500W.. at this setting it's pretty much like a lightweight road bike to pedal.. having to put in significant effort to maintain 30km/h plus.. It was good but just to make sure everything was working fine.

THe ride home.. Different story.. I've set the offroad setting to 4kw.. Awesome. I was quite restrained on the throttle averaging about 35km/h, as I don't want to draw unwanted attention. but I think it cannot be helped.. the bike looks too... 'tough'

4kw is a good setting, I tested 5kw yesterday and it could probably do 6kw.. but 4kw gives me good usable power, without going nuts.

Time to try a ride to work.. tomorrow morning to "show it off"

One comment. THe rear shock is cr4p. it's got no damping.. and on cornering, the rear wheel bounces and it is very dangerous. plus the chain came off and got stuck around my foot then caught up under the rear wheel pulling my foot off the pedal.. could have been bad, but no injury. perhaps a chain guide is on the cards.

Andy

 

[Animalector]

I've found a DNM rear shock 750lbs spring, 230mm eye to eye. $65 delivered.

http://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/dnm-mountain-downhill-bike-coil-rear-shock-750-lbs/MM-22LAR

It has to be better than what I have got. The riding position at the moment is a bit "over the front" so perhaps the 40mm drop in the rear will help the comfort.

Alternative is one of the 260mm BK7 units from Yasusu, which have rebound and compression adjustment. but look a bit... mmm dodge...

http://www.yasusu.com/pro_bic01.htm

Anyone got any comments on this?

Andy

 

[trevc2]

It has to be better than what I have got. The riding position at the moment is a bit "over the front" so perhaps the 40mm drop in the rear will help the comfort.

You're pretty tall. I've never seen the Greyborg look that small. Maybe try lowering the seat or a riser on the handlebar? Could do both

I'm quite short, but still have my seat set lower than it would be on a regular bike or one without DH geometry. My legs come up too high, but it's still a much more comfortable riding posture. The loss in proper leg extension doesn't matter since there's all that electric grunt. I also prefer being lower since it feels safer at speed.

 

[zombiess]

I've found a DNM rear shock 750lbs spring, 230mm eye to eye. $65 delivered.

http://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/dnm-mountain-downhill-bike-coil-rear-shock-750-lbs/MM-22LAR

It has to be better than what I have got. The riding position at the moment is a bit "over the front" so perhaps the 40mm drop in the rear will help the comfort.

Alternative is one of the 260mm BK7 units from Yasusu, which have rebound and compression adjustment. but look a bit... mmm dodge...

http://www.yasusu.com/pro_bic01.htm

Anyone got any comments on this?

Andy

I had DNM make 4 Burner RCP2 shocks for me with 650lb springs and the correct hardware for the Warp. I am swapping over to one very soon. They cost $225. I have a Fastace $60 eBay special on it rich now. 240mm 600lb spring with adjustable compression and rebound. Correct mounting hardware cost me another $70 from a machine shop and a few hour of communication and 2 weeks shipping.

Biggest complaint with the fastace is the comp setting doesnt have a lot of range compared to the rebound, but it does have a very fine adjustment. The DNM Burner shock should be a nice upgrade.

If you watch my latest video you will see how the suspension reacts. I have everything set a bit over dampened because I like a plush ride. I would need to stiffen things up a little for hard off road riding, but I don't ride off road.