Bafang M500/M600 thread

[casainho]

I am being trying to write down a list of potential things we would win if developing our own motor firmware. For now, it is:
1. Customize assist levels: original firmware lowest level 1 is to much powerful for my needs.
2. Improve Walk Assist: original Walk Assist rotates the wheel at 1 or 2 km/h, which is VERY slow, rendering this feature useless.
3. Unlimited battery voltage range: choose between 24V / 7S up to 52V / 14S cells batteries.
4. Improve (reduce) the lag between applying force to the pedal and the electric assist kicking in.
5. Improve (reduce) the lag between stopping pedaling and the motor continuing assist.
6. Improve / adjust the rate at which assist is 'ramped up' / 'ramped down'. In some cases, it seems like assist kicks in too hard, moves the pedal forward faster than my leg can keep up, then drops off. This makes for a very weird pedaling experience where it feels like you almost fall forward for a second when assist kicks in, only to crash into a 'wall' when the assist suddenly stops again.

----

I went crazy and bought the just launched latest model of Garmin Edge to use on my EBike, because it has the Stamina feature that predicts in real time if I will be able to finish the race while keeping the current pace / power. I am already using the same Stamina feature for running, on my watch. Now Garmin will use both data from my cycling and running activities, and will help to improve even more that prediction and all other fitness metrics as my needed recovery time, stress, etc.

But to have Stamina prediction on cycling, the bicycle need to have a power meter. Unfortunately, as we found that Bafang M500/M600 torque sensor saturates at 40 kgs weight on the pedals, I do not think it will be good to use as input to Garmin Edge - still I wish to develop and try it later. So, I decided to also buy the Garmin XC200 power meter pedals. Later I can also use this pedals to calibrate a possible power value calculated by Bafang M500/M600 torque sensor, even if will have limitations.

And I want more and more the Bafang M500/M600 EBike to have the ANT+ LEV EBike wireless standard, to integrate on the Garmin Edge my EBike, being able to see there the current assist level, battery SOC and current motor power, and change the display page from the remote.

 

[Waynemarlow]

6. Improve / adjust the rate at which assist is 'ramped up' / 'ramped down'. In some cases, it seems like assist kicks in too hard, moves the pedal forward faster than my leg can keep up, then drops off. This makes for a very weird pedaling experience where it feels like you almost fall forward for a second when assist kicks in, only to crash into a 'wall' when the assist suddenly stops again.

I went crazy and bought the just launched latest model of Garmin Edge to use on my EBike, because it has the Stamina feature that predicts in real time if I will be able to finish the race while keeping the current pace / power. I am already using the same Stamina feature for running, on my watch. Now Garmin will use both data from my cycling and running activities, and will help to improve even more that prediction and all other fitness metrics as my needed recovery time, stress, etc.

But to have Stamina prediction on cycling, the bicycle need to have a power meter. Unfortunately, as we found that Bafang M500/M600 torque sensor saturates at 40 kgs weight on the pedals, I do not think it will be good to use as input to Garmin Edge - still I wish to develop and try it later. So, I decided to also buy the Garmin XC200 power meter pedals. Later I can also use this pedals to calibrate a possible power value calculated by Bafang M500/M600 torque sensor, even if will have limitations.

And I want more and more the Bafang M500/M600 EBike to have the ANT+ LEV EBike wireless standard, to integrate on the Garmin Edge my EBike, being able to see there the current assist level, battery SOC and current motor power, and change the display page from the remote.

Casainho we have found that like the TSDZ2 motor you need to keep your feet off the pedals on the motor startup to get a better range on the torque sensor. The 510 in particular looks like its more than 30 seconds without any weight at startup. Those using the 510 are reporting that if the startup calibration takes place properly then the motor settles down and gives good response rates to pedal torque.

I love those pedals but oh the price. At any sort of cadence above say 50rpm do you think we can put in more than 40kgs on the pedals ? It would only be the brief startup and very low speed cadence not read correctly which would be a very small percentage of time ?

Yes we would all love the ANT + LEV function as we could just have the Garmin and a very small display which with my eyesight, beyond startup I wouldn't care how small the figures are.

 

[casainho]

Casainho we have found that like the TSDZ2 motor you need to keep your feet off the pedals on the motor startup to get a better range on the torque sensor. The 510 in particular looks like its more than 30 seconds without any weight at startup. Those using the 510 are reporting that if the startup calibration takes place properly then the motor settles down and gives good response rates to pedal torque.

That is very strange, because as we know, the only connection between the torque sensor and the motor controller is CAN. And on CAN, we see that the torque sensor sends every 10ms his value to the CAN bus to se motor controller can read the value from the bus. And we always see a value of 750 at 0kgs, on my M500 as also other developers M500, so, seems they are calibrated on factory -- here my values:

I love those pedals but oh the price. At any sort of cadence above say 50rpm do you think we can put in more than 40kgs on the pedals ? It would only be the brief startup and very low speed cadence not read correctly which would be a very small percentage of time ?

Yes we would all love the ANT + LEV function as we could just have the Garmin and a very small display which with my eyesight, beyond startup I wouldn't care how small the figures are.

No, I think the M500/M600 torque sensor only measures 40 kgs at max. Also, for power calculation, we need the cadence value and for some reason, that value send to CAN bus seems to arrive at 0 values often even if we are pedaling... so, I think calculation the human pedal power may be problematic or will have some errors. I still do not understand this, maybe Bafang were in a hurry when developed the torque sensor and did not implement it as we expect (since other motors EBike brands expose the human pedal power by ANT wireless) or they did not want it on purpose.

Garmin Edge displays are very good for cycling, like if they wee developed specifically for this application - they are very easy to read outdoors with sunlight, very good and soft backlight for night riding and low power - but also this new model, for the first time includes solar charging!! just like the latest watches, they have some small area with solar panel to charge the device while using it outdoor!!

 

[szkuba]

interesting to see that torque value generated drops with cadence. Here is the picture from some scientific research dotted and solid line are two different riders:

source: https://www.researchgate.net/figure...ity-ie-cadence-and-power-output_fig1_49284193

 

[patdam]

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=18879 said:
2. Improve Walk Assist: original Walk Assist rotates the wheel at 1 or 2 km/h, which is VERY slow, rendering this feature useless.

For my point of vue. The better walk assist system is to use the throttle (with max speed +- 7 km/h), you can adjust the power following the ground needs.
https://www.emtbforums.com/community/threads/diy-bike-3d-print-files.26121/


The problem is that with the M500/600 it is too powerfull and intrusive. to compense i use a mechanical divice to limit the travel of the throttle.
The possibility to software adjust the range of the throttle will be a great improvment.

 

[SUPERJC]

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=18879 said:
2. Improve Walk Assist: original Walk Assist rotates the wheel at 1 or 2 km/h, which is VERY slow, rendering this feature useless.

For my point of vue. The better walk assist system is to use the throttle (with max speed +- 7 km/h), you can adjust the power following the ground needs.
The possibility to software adjust the range of the throttle will be a great improvment.

This is exactly what I do with the uart version
Doing the same thing with the can protocol is no problem
Casainho will be able to easily do it
The difficulty for many people is more on the NRF52840 which is less popular for beginners
An ESP32 version would have been much easier
for the walk function I use the ground speed and the accelerator is controlled by a PID
I use a DAC output from the ESP32 (output 0 to 3.3V )

 

[casainho]

This is exactly what I do with the uart version
Doing the same thing with the can protocol is no problem
Casainho will be able to easily do it
The difficulty for many people is more on the NRF52840 which is less popular for beginners
An ESP32 version would have been much easier
for the walk function I use the ground speed and the accelerator is controlled by a PID
I use a DAC output from the ESP32 (output 0 to 3.3V )

Looking at the list, the only way is only to develop the motor firmware:

1. Customize assist levels: original firmware lowest level 1 is to much powerful for my needs.
2. Improve Walk Assist: original Walk Assist rotates the wheel at 1 or 2 km/h, which is VERY slow, rendering this feature useless.
3. Unlimited battery voltage range: choose between 24V / 7S up to 52V / 14S cells batteries.
4. Improve (reduce) the lag between applying force to the pedal and the electric assist kicking in.
5. Improve (reduce) the lag between stopping pedaling and the motor continuing assist.
6. Improve / adjust the rate at which assist is 'ramped up' / 'ramped down'. In some cases, it seems like assist kicks in too hard, moves the pedal forward faster than my leg can keep up, then drops off. This makes for a very weird pedaling experience where it feels like you almost fall forward for a second when assist kicks in, only to crash into a 'wall' when the assist suddenly stops again.

 

[SUPERJC]

This is exactly what I do with the uart version
Doing the same thing with the can protocol is no problem
Casainho will be able to easily do it
The difficulty for many people is more on the NRF52840 which is less popular for beginners
An ESP32 version would have been much easier
for the walk function I use the ground speed and the accelerator is controlled by a PID
I use a DAC output from the ESP32 (output 0 to 3.3V )

Looking at the list, the only way is only to develop the motor firmware:

1. Customize assist levels: original firmware lowest level 1 is to much powerful for my needs.
2. Improve Walk Assist: original Walk Assist rotates the wheel at 1 or 2 km/h, which is VERY slow, rendering this feature useless.
3. Unlimited battery voltage range: choose between 24V / 7S up to 52V / 14S cells batteries.
4. Improve (reduce) the lag between applying force to the pedal and the electric assist kicking in.
5. Improve (reduce) the lag between stopping pedaling and the motor continuing assist.
6. Improve / adjust the rate at which assist is 'ramped up' / 'ramped down'. In some cases, it seems like assist kicks in too hard, moves the pedal forward faster than my leg can keep up, then drops off. This makes for a very weird pedaling experience where it feels like you almost fall forward for a second when assist kicks in, only to crash into a 'wall' when the assist suddenly stops again.

Yes but it's not the easiest way

 

[Waynemarlow]

1. Customize assist levels: original firmware lowest level 1 is to much powerful for my needs.
2. Improve Walk Assist: original Walk Assist rotates the wheel at 1 or 2 km/h, which is VERY slow, rendering this feature useless.
3. Unlimited battery voltage range: choose between 24V / 7S up to 52V / 14S cells batteries.
4. Improve (reduce) the lag between applying force to the pedal and the electric assist kicking in.
5. Improve (reduce) the lag between stopping pedaling and the motor continuing assist.
6. Improve / adjust the rate at which assist is 'ramped up' / 'ramped down'. In some cases, it seems like assist kicks in too hard, moves the pedal forward faster than my leg can keep up, then drops off. This makes for a very weird pedaling experience where it feels like you almost fall forward for a second when assist kicks in, only to crash into a 'wall' when the assist suddenly stops again.

To rewrite the whole firmware is a huge task and although you have done much of the TSDZ2 project and can utilise much of that knowledge, its still going to be a huge task. Virtually everyone on this thread would thank you for it as Bafang don't seem to be too quick in understanding they will have to sooner rather than later offer a revised firmware that will enable users to change and alter the settings to suit their own riding styles. Every other manufacturer seems to offer it and a few new comers such as Polini already have it. It would only take one of the newcomers to develop a core motor with adaptors to suit the various frame mounting configurations and I would suspect Bafangs sales will fall off rapidly, even if the motors are reliable as they seem.

In the meantime I think you can scrub off a few of the desired list things to do for the moment.

If the assist level is too much on the first level, then maybe consider riding a tad faster, the effort to maintain speed soon eats into the motor assist. Obviously you will need to reset the speed limits as my Fazua motor has shown me. I can ride into the 25kph speed limit too often on only 55W's of power and its a real painful experience with the motor cutting in and out, you end up using more energy than simply peddling. I have a 32kph American spec Fazua motor and its a real joy to ride in those low power settings, seemingly almost seamless and using far less battery power than the speed limited version albeit at a slightly higher average speed than simply without assist.

I'm not convinced on the Walk assist, if its to slow then change the gearing, on my Bafang unit I have to move the gearing to almost the mid gears to get a comfortable walking pace, but with 4 clicks on the gear change I'm there. That has to be so much quicker than rewriting the firmware.

I don't get the voltage requirements, how often do we have different voltage batteries on hand, mine are all 48 volt and 52 volts, they work without problem on the existing firmware.

Is there a lag in torque sensing, surely if Bafang allowed the ramp up to be changed wouldn't that solve the problem or is it genuinely a slow response, without being able to advance the ramp up its difficult to know.

The lag in stopping the assist when stopping peddling is pretty normal across all motor brands, Bosch actually makes a marketing point of it and sells the idea that it will pull you through rock gardens and ruts without actually a full rotation of the pedals. I concur and once learnt how to take advantage of it, I like it. If you don't like it then Bafang are one of the few motors that has a brake sensor ready wiring already fitted. Simply fit a magnetic switch to your rear brake, it works well and is simple to fit, its stops the motor almost instantly.

My take on it is that you are willing to spend 100's of hours of development all for probably only a gain in the way the user can modify the ramp up and down + the assist levels. My betting its already been developed or in the process of, as I've said before its the exchange from motor display to Garmin using the ANT LEV BT that at the moment is where we really need the development and let Garmin maybe in a few months come in with their equivalent to other manufacturers user friendly App assistance and modification of parameters.

But if you want to really rewrite the firmware, we are all behind you for doing it.

 

[casainho]

I did first test ride with the Garmin Rally XC200 power meter pedals + Garmin Edge 1040. On the EasyDIY display, I have the regular 3 buttons and I also have the 4th button specifically to change the Garmin Edge pages.

The EasyDIY display is very small, shows only motor data and is hard to see outdoors. But since this display is implementing ANT+LEV Ebike, I am seeing the motor assist level value and battery SOC directly on Garmin Edge, which is showing important data as seen on the image: my human pedal power; my heart rate; my stamina; etc. There are other pages that I am not showing, like the map navigation page, elevation graph page, etc.

The pedal power meter seems to work very well, no issue at all for being installed on an EBike. And I was also using my Garmin Fenix 7 watch, where I also paired the pedals power meter, meaning I was receiving and recording the same value both on my watch and on the GPS cycling computer. This is the advantage of ANT compared to Bluetooth.

 

[patdam]

clearly https://endless-sphere.com/forums/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=49691 whe have not the same use. I absolutly do not want a lag in stopping the assist when i stopping peddling and i do not want to need braking to cut the motor assist. I do not want linear walk assist with an on/off switch and i do not want to need changing gear to adjust the walk mode speed.

Inever, i will say that my expects is the better for everybody. just my wish for my use. And i perfectly understand that others want that i absolutly don't want.

This highlight the major problem of the M series. Bafang who do not give possibility to the final customer to personalize their motor. I think that they belive that is this great advantage of the BBS (uart rev), who close the door of the major company to sale their motor. They have chose to personalize soft only on request of the sub supplier. result we can find on netwoork quantity of soft rev, whitout any informations on their specificity. And we need to test all, to try to find the one who satisfy us, with all time feeling of it is not the better. I think that this bafang policy is a big mistake and i don't think more that major company will take the risq to launch a bike with an new motor who don't fully satified the few DIY customers who use it.

 

[SUPERJC]

clearly https://endless-sphere.com/forums/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=49691 whe have not the same use. I absolutly do not want a lag in stopping the assist when i stopping peddling and i do not want to need braking to cut the motor assist. I do not want linear walk assist with an on/off switch and i do not want to need changing gear to adjust the walk mode speed.

Inever, i will say that my expects is the better for everybody. just my wish for my use. And i perfectly understand that others want that i absolutly don't want.

This highlight the major problem of the M series. Bafang who do not give possibility to the final customer to personalize their motor. I think that they belive that is this great advantage of the BBS (uart rev), who close the door of the major company to sale their motor. They have chose to personalize soft only on request of the sub supplier. result we can find on netwoork quantity of soft rev, whitout any informations on their specificity. And we need to test all, to try to find the one who satisfy us, with all time feeling of it is not the better. I think that this bafang policy is a big mistake and i don't think more that major company will take the risq to launch a bike with an new motor who don't fully satified the few DIY customers who use it.

the BBS is for the KIT market with fewer regulatory constraints
For other motors intended mainly for complete bikes, the regulations require that they cannot be easily modified.
You can't easily modify Bosch, Brose, Yamaha,...

 

[Waynemarlow]

Speed and max power is about the only thing you can't now modify on the major brands, virtually every other facet of the ramp up and down, levels of assist, type of assist etc are all now modifiable by the user.

 

[Waynemarlow]

clearly https://endless-sphere.com/forums/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=49691 whe have not the same use. I absolutly do not want a lag in stopping the assist when i stopping peddling and i do not want to need braking to cut the motor assist. I do not want linear walk assist with an on/off switch and i do not want to need changing gear to adjust the walk mode speed.

PatDam, everything is about learning and adapting to a problem. Bafang cant be expected to set a motor speed that will suit all bikes gearing for walk assist, many of the EMtbs now have a 11 - 51 gear rear cassette. So they pick the mid range gears which most bikes have. They also offer a wiring solution to fitting a throttle unlike every other manufacturer. Surely isn't the throttle the solution to your speed variability requirements.

Touching the rear brake doesn't mean actually full on braking, just opening the lever a tad is enough to shut down the motor, its a basic skill that can be learnt in just a few minutes.

Caisanho the set up you have is looking pretty cool now with the pedals and Garmin integration. Starting to think I may have to go down your LCD display route, well done though and it opens up so many possibilities.

 

[casainho]

Caisanho the set up you have is looking pretty cool now with the pedals and Garmin integration. Starting to think I may have to go down your LCD display route, well done though and it opens up so many possibilities.

There is a lot going on for me. On next 4 days, I will be riding about 100 kms and 1300 D+ each day. And I will be on a group of strong cyclists (I will be the only one with EBike).

As I am an obese diabetic and so I am on a Ketogenic diet where I almost do not eat carbs, so all this is hard for me as no one around me is doing the same, in fact, are doing the contrary: eating a lot of sugars / carbs while riding.

Recently I did a similar day and I bonked... about 1h30 before finishing, luckily I was using my EBike, because at that time I could not pedal harder or run, I could only walking slowly. So I used the motor at a good amount of assistance.

And I can see my blood glucose values in real time the Garmin, so I were able to see that I went slowly going down on glucose on the blood until I bonked. Interesting is that Garmin Stamina also went to near zero a bit before I bonked!! So my plan is to manage very well my energy output, for that I will keep a look at my power on the pedals and my target will be around 200 up to 250W. I will also keep a look at Garmin Stamina and adjust that my power output so I can finish the day ride.

Here the Stamina and my blood glucose when I bonked, at about 5h30 of riding:


So, I will need to also manage very well my motor power / battery range... that is why I need a very low assist level of 33% of current minimum assist level on my M500.

I have many data to keep an eye while riding, including the GPS navigation, but that guys are fast and will not stop, so I can not stop either. That is why is so important to have Garmin Edge page change implemented on the EasyDIY display remote 4th button, so I do not need to stop and use the touch screen every time I need to change the page to check the various data on the display pages -- and this is already working perfectly, the 4th button for Edge page change. And the most important thing about M500 for me to see is: battery SOC; current assist level, and that also works very well right now.

 

[AHicks]

If the assist level is too much on the first level, then maybe consider riding a tad faster,If the assist level is too much on the first level, then maybe consider riding a tad faster,

Please share how one might ride a "tad faster" when on a multi use trail for instance. One with other types of traffic that has just as much right to be there as you do? Or are you one of these guys that likes to (recklessly) zoom through them?

Second the vote that being forced to tap the brake is NOT a good solution to replace accurate stop delay.

Regarding the idea of the power staying on too long after you stop pedaling (or having to turn the crank too far when starting), this is about the control one has available at low speeds, as you mention (like the idea (BS) Bosch is spreading). From the control programming standpoint, this is VERY easily controlled using just the PAS sensor. You shouldn't be forced to turn the crank an entire revolution to turn the power on or off safely. 1/4 turn should be more than enough, or even less (if so desired), depending on the number of magnets in the PAS magnet disc. Both the UART versions of Bafang mid drives, and even the KT controllers take full advantage of this already.

 

[Waynemarlow]

Second the vote that being forced to tap the brake is NOT a good solution to replace accurate stop delay.

Regarding the idea of the power staying on too long after you stop pedaling (or having to turn the crank too far when starting), this is about the control one has available at low speeds, as you mention (like the idea (BS) Bosch is spreading). From the control programming standpoint, this is VERY easily controlled using just the PAS sensor. You shouldn't be forced to turn the crank an entire revolution to turn the power on or off safely. 1/4 turn should be more than enough, or even less (if so desired), depending on the number of magnets in the PAS magnet disc. Both the UART versions of Bafang mid drives, and even the KT controllers take full advantage of this already.

Can I ask a question, in your car you almost certainly ( well most of us do ) use the speed maintain button in say 30mph and restricted zones to maintain a constant speed ( gives best traffic flow, you don't get pinged for speeding and best mpg ), how do you shut that down when you come across say a slower car or want to regain full control ?

I'm not sure you will ever get a total shut down as soon as you stop peddling, theres just too much going on in the electronics and residual power for a motor to stop instantly. Certainly on the TSDZ2 project the firmware writers spent a lot of time perfecting that shut down process but even the very latest variant you could still feel that tiny bit of follow on from the motor as the pedals are stopped. To get that they had do some quite complex programing which just creates more delay. In my view yes you can have a sort of slow down from either the torque sensor or the rotational sensor, but that still won't be as fast as a switched polarity.

Oh well I guess unless someone or a team get together capable of rewriting the Bafang firmware, I guess we are stuck with what we have or we buy another manufacturers motor .

 

[patdam]

"Oh well I guess unless someone or a team get together capable of rewriting the Bafang firmware, I guess we are stuck with what we have or we buy another manufacturers motor ."

Do we live in the same dimension ?

All of my M motor (500 and 600) stop instentanelly when i stop turning the crank. Fortunatlly, if not i will not use it. Before you saied "you have not try", i have try one time this configuration with an BBS. absolutly undriveable for me, too many dangerous.
In my practice i ride sometime on goat paths and one motor who still push few seconds when i stop turn could send me in the void.

 

[Waynemarlow]

Do we live in the same dimension ?

All of my M motor (500 and 600) stop instentanelly when i stop turning the crank. Fortunatlly, if not i will not use it. Before you saied "you have not try", i have try one time this configuration with an BBS. absolutly undriveable for me, too many dangerous.
In my practice i ride sometime on goat paths and one motor who still push few seconds when i stop turn could send me in the void.

Do we not have the same motor, you seem to be saying that you are happy with the slight over run ?

From a personal perspective my brakes easily overcome the momentary motor over run and I’m not having any problem riding on steep single track, sufficiently so that I haven’t fitted brake cut offs. The only Bafang motor I had to fit brake cut offs was the BBS02 which despite a lot of programming I could never fully dial out the over run.

 

[Adam271226]

Does anyone know if there is firmware update for the torque sensor for M600 motor?

 

[casainho]

I am being riding on mountains and the motor firmware is mostly ok for me. The 2 most important things I wish I could change: assist levels and walk assist:

1. Customize assist levels: original firmware lowest level 1 is to much powerful for my needs. Seems the original firmware uses the pedal torque and not the pedal power. If you want to have the motor to assist you less, shift your gears to increase your cadence and then your pedal torque will be lower and then the motor assistance will also be lower.

2. Improve Walk Assist: original Walk Assist rotates the wheel at 1 or 2 km/h, which is VERY slow, rendering this feature useless. Even if we shift gears to try make the wheel rotate faster, the wheel torque will then be very small and the wheel will stall.

--------------

If we develop our own OpenSource motor firmware, we could get:

1. Customize assist levels: original firmware lowest level 1 is to much powerful for my needs. Seems the original firmware uses the pedal torque and not the pedal power. If you want to have the motor to assist you less, shift your gears to increase your cadence and then your pedal torque will be lower and then the motor assistance will also be lower.
2. Improve Walk Assist: original Walk Assist rotates the wheel at 1 or 2 km/h, which is VERY slow, rendering this feature useless. Even if we shift gears to try make the wheel rotate faster, the wheel torque will then be very small and the wheel will stall.
3. Unlimited battery voltage range: choose between 24V / 7S up to 52V / 14S cells batteries.
4. Improve (reduce) the lag between applying force to the pedal and the electric assist kicking in.
5. Improve (reduce) the lag between stopping pedaling and the motor continuing assist.
6. Improve / adjust the rate at which assist is 'ramped up' / 'ramped down'. In some cases, it seems like assist kicks in too hard, moves the pedal forward faster than my leg can keep up, then drops off. This makes for a very weird pedaling experience where it feels like you almost fall forward for a second when assist kicks in, only to crash into a 'wall' when the assist suddenly stops again.

 

[bikelpl]

Hi, has anybody tried with success to change these parameters in BESST tool?
(eg. clicking "Write6011" button)
I ordered my first M600 bike, and while I'm waiting I'm looking at source code of BESST tool and I found this hidden section.

It looks like Params calculator - when I fill all the table cells below and then click "Merge data" it translates all individual cells data to this long, ready to write string.

 

[bikelpl]

I've changed the translation from Chinese to English in every section to be more readable:

Please tell me if this is useful to anybody? Or this is already well known?

 

[patdam]

"well known?"

I don't think so, i'm not soft master but i never seen these pages ?
If you can really change all these parameters it will be dangerous for sorcerer's apprentices. i predict it will apper a lot off motors failures in the future.

 

[Richard3000]

To configure the Bafang M500 / M600 motor without using the BESST programmer, you can use this interface.

Link interface USB to CAN on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/USB-Converter-Module-Raspberry-Zero/dp/B07Q812QK8/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=usb+to+can+innomaker&qid=1604409709&sr=8-2

Link cables Bafang HMI M500/M600 on e-bike-technologies:
https://www.e-bike-technologies.de/index.php/en/connectors/connectors-signal/connectors-higo-mini-f-series/higo-b5-f-detail
https://www.e-bike-technologies.de/index.php/en/connectors/connectors-signal/connectors-higo-mini-f-series/higo-s5-f-detail

Below are the software and the instructions for configuration and use.

I have bought the set! I am going to try to change the speed limit on my bafang m420 with dpc18 now. But 1 question. I only want to increase max speed. So i would only have to change the hex for the speed. Or do i also need to change the other 2? Why would i need to change the other 2?

Done on my M420 canbus with Dpc18 . Speed is set to 60kmh now

add: I've succed to change speed limit too on a M420 motor with DPC 10 can Displauy

So Ive tried building my canbus set to increase speed of a Qwic Ebike with a Bafang M420 motor and DPC Canbus display, but the descriptions posted here are too difficult to follow for a non-tech guy like me.

1. Can perhaps someone explain me specifically the schematic part in simple terms? (I have no clue what pieces to solder and connect)

2.Or are there any simpler explanations or other way I can try my luck?

3. Or is here someone from The Netherlands that might be able to help me in person?

The only other option I see is getting a Baddass box, but I dont like having to install separate hardware with messed up/incorrect speed reading.