build thread: klein mantra hs3540 5kW 70km/h 20" (done)

[crossbreak]

I'll also order some JB-Weld. I like your long swing arm, but I can't build such a thing. Now I will elongate mine with 4x 5mm thick AL-7075 sheets on both sides, which will be fastened on the original swing arm with JB-Weld. I change my motor for a cheaper MagicPie2 in a casted 20"rim and use the HS3540 on a different bike. Hope the MagicPie2 can stand the 40amps@24s lipo I wanna use

Thx for your tips about tires, they are so cheap! Hope they fit the 20" MagicPie2 rim properly :? http://www.ebay.de/itm/300856503835?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I will use 24" front, hope it will look different than neptronix bike
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=35060&start=50#p514219

Also got a Hammerschmidt drive on the bay that will be fitted so I can still pedal at 45mph

 

[izeman]

update 20130519: made a mount for my rear light. i can't take it off now, but i won't park the bike anywhere where it could be stolen, so that should be no problem

the light was glued on this little piece of aluminium with 2k epoxy

the front light mount was painted black (same color as the rear frame), so i don't shine out that much

the cranks where too short, or the bb was too low, as you wish to see it, and the rear damper was too soft because of the longer rear swing arm. so i just made a new mount for the spring which moved the pivot point a bit up and maybe 5cm to the back. this lifted the bb some 4cm, and made the damping much stiffer. now i think i don't need to cut the cranks. . red arrow shows the location of the original pivot point.

this is what the bike looks like now, and what i assume finished.

 

[izeman]

I'll also order some JB-Weld. I like your long swing arm, but I can't build such a thing. Now I will elongate mine with 4x 5mm thick AL-7075 sheets on both sides, which will be fastened on the original swing arm with JB-Weld.

only the strong survive my dropouts are 10mm st52 steel. i wouldn't trust 5mm aluminium. i think the axle will dig into that in no time. also glueing metal to each other if it has to carry some load would be a no go for me. but if you show your progress in your build thread i'd be happy to contribute if i can.

 

[crossbreak]

4x5mm means 20mm thick alloy on both sides, that is a bit much IMO, but as you say only the strong survive haven't yet finally chosen a frame.



my build thread: www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=50194

your help is always much appreciated, already helped and inspired me a lot!

 

[izeman]

today i exchanged my '99 manitou sx-r 80mm fork for a '12 rockshox recon 120mm fork in black. the bike looks MUCH better now. black and blue. no more yellow
120mm travel is much better then 80mm and also lifts the front by 4cm. this changes steering angle as well, making it not so steep. but still, the heavy battery at the handle bar is a big problem for every fork.

i also did hope that i sealed the motor properly, as no oil was coming out of the motor for the first 100km. but then it started to come out at the disc side. i realized that too late, and now my brake pads are useless. there is almost no brake force left. good that i have hard regen braking enabled. i tried cleaning it with iso, brake cleaner, sanding the surface, heating it up ... i will by sintered new ones.

then i will have to reopen the motor. when doing so i will install new bearings. sealed ones preferably. does someone have the right dimension for me?

 

[Merlin]

pics?

 

[izeman]

here you go. i really like the bike now. top speed is 72km/h, and it handles really nice. it may be a bit stronger going uphills. but i will work on that

 

[melodious]

Congrats on your finished build! Looks nice! It's always nice to come full circle! Here's to many trouble free rides!

 

[triggeraa]

Very nice "finished" build. Love the tires. Any problems with pedal strike?

 

[izeman]

thanks for the nice posts. yes. there was (to some degree still is) some clearance problem. moving from 26" to 20" means 3" less clearance. by exchanging the 80mm fork for a 120mm one, i gained 50mm (the fork is longer at all - it's not only the 40mm travel alone.
when i made the rear frame the pivot point of the rear damper had the very same place as before, which of course did NOT lift the rear part of the bike. also the damper was too weak, so normal pedaling made the pedals hit the ground. i moved the pivot point to the rear, to make the lever smaller, and i moved it higher, to lift the rear. now there is no problem pedaling any more, you still better lift the inner pedal when cornering.

 

[izeman]

new addition, a new horn push button. i didn't like the position of the old one, and somewhere on the forum saw it similary made. so i shameless copied the idea
2mm aluminium sheet, can be cut like butter with a small saw. drilled a 10mm hole, cut a slot, then filed and polished. shiny aluminium did look nice, but didn't match the rest of the bike. so i painted it black.

even though the plate is quite thin, it doesn't bend, as the switch is very close to the clamp.
looks like it was always there, and is in reach of my thumb.

 

[izeman]

did i say that i love this bike and the CA V3 even more? it's such a nice toy. so easy to tame the bike, and unleash it's pull potential with a click of a button. super soft launch, and super nice PAS engagement, and full power at the throttle if you wish.
i now set the bike to 2.5kw power, and 600w torque-pas. while pedaling it's super easy to reach 35km/h and with the touch of the throttle i can go up to 65km/h. if i want to have some fun: switch to unlimited and it 4.5kw and a bit more fun. but it's also hard on the controller - 12fet only.
so the middle setting is just fine, and great for everyday riding.
charging the 24s lifepo4 is so convenient as well. all clean, no cables, just a plug to the bms. plug it in, and forget about it. no balancing hassle, and no worries with lipo. almost no voltage sag, and predictable range with almost 20ah charge (1.6kwh).
now i still need to wait for the 6203 bearings to install, and i hope the oil leakage will be gone after that.

 

[Observator]

What clamp is that holding the button plate? And where did you get it?

 

[Chalo]

What clamp is that holding the button plate? And where did you get it?

That looks like the back side of a brake lever. Most have just a single bolt, but some have two.

 

[izeman]

the clamp is the brake lever. if that was your question.

 

[izeman]

i resealed the motor, and filled it with 45ml atf. did some testing: i can say, better than no oil, but definately not enough. i will add 30ml more at least.
i always though that 2x 10mm torque plates with clamping are more than enough. but regen is VERY hard on the torque plates. i have to tighten the screws really hard and still the screw nuts become loose after time. today i thought there was some movement somewhere in the bike, and found that i could rock it forth and back on one side. i disabled regen now. my brakes are very strong. i would like regen braking but not for the cost of a broken axle.

 

[crossbreak]

if you have an infineon controller, you can programm regen as you want. Normal regen setting is very hard when using a 20" wheel ATM I have deactivated regen, too. I use only a single 6mm torque arm :? maybe I should add another. Merlin has the same problems, i'll make some 10mm torque arms for his HS4080 when I have the time.

I use a M4 screw for tightening the torque arm and a self-locking nut. Still it has loosened after the first ride :x

What we need is M6 x0.75 screws with fine threads (Feingewinde DIN961). But they are really hard to buy, mabe here http://www.lorber-schramm.de/index.php/produkte/schrauben/28-din-961-aussensechskantschraube-mit-gewinde-bis-unter-kopf.html

 

[izeman]

if you have an infineon controller, you can programm regen as you want. Normal regen setting is very hard when using a 20" wheel ATM I have deactivated regen, too. I use only a single 6mm torque arm :? maybe I should add another. Merlin has the same problems, i'll make some 10mm torque arms for his HS4080 when I have the time.

I use a M4 screw for tightening the torque arm and a self-locking nut. Still it has loosened after the first ride :x

What we need is M6 x0.75 screws with fine threads (Feingewinde DIN961). But they are really hard to buy, mabe here http://www.lorber-schramm.de/index.php/produkte/schrauben/28-din-961-aussensechskantschraube-mit-gewinde-bis-unter-kopf.html

i can't change the thread now, as it's already cut. it's a standard m6. no problem to get the Feingewindeschrauben, which would have been a better choice, but m6 was already there, and the thread cutter as well.
i know that i can change the regen setting, but HARD is just right. i like it that way. if i change it to a lower setting it's of no use at all. HARD let's me go down steep roads and i don't need the mechanical brakes.
i now still disabled regen, as i don't want the torque arms/axle to wear out. the disc brake has more than enough power to lock the rear wheel at any speed.
i think the real problem with regen is, that it's kicking in too fast/hard. if there was a little ramp up phase it would be better. but afaik there is nothing you can do with a infineon controller.

 

[Merlin]

i now still disabled regen, as i don't want the torque arms/axle to wear out. the disc brake has more than enough power to lock the rear wheel at any speed.
i think the real problem with regen is, that it's kicking in too fast/hard. if there was a little ramp up phase it would be better. but afaik there is nothing you can do with a infineon controller.

..thats the Problem.
(Beside that i dont feel a difference low or high regen setting?!)

I Killed allready one TA, because klicking the "Button" at 70kph brakes great, but the 2000w Regen Power comes to quick/hard.
I use Regen only at slow speeds or long downhills. Thats cool to pedal down a hill with 20-30kph and 400-500w Regen.

Adjustable Regen Mod for Infineons i want

 

[crossbreak]

Adjustable Regen Mod for Infineons i want

Already thought of bypassing the shunt and feed the chip with a self generated current signal from my arduino. This way the Arduino is in charge of controlling all battery currents. Arduino has to sample VERY fast then, not sure if it is able to do that.

Best is, we could do this with any controller, even the cheaper and much smaller 24Fet Greentime ones But this is stil future music, ATM we still implement basic features like speed limiter

 

[John Bozi]

great build just went through the whole thread. Wish I had your abilities of building.

cheers

 

[Chalo]

It is more "moto" and less "velo" than I prefer, but it is one of the most magnificent and thoroughly thought-out bikes around here. Almost all of us decide enough is enough before we get to this point of development.

I especially like the use of a URT type bike as a starting point.

 

[izeman]

It is more "moto" and less "velo" than I prefer, but it is one of the most magnificent and thoroughly thought-out bikes around here. Almost all of us decide enough is enough before we get to this point of development.

I especially like the use of a URT type bike as a starting point.

moto was intended. i tried to make it a bit "super moto" like. small wheels, wide tires, and a wide handle bar.
nice that someone sees the hours of thought/development and sleepless night went into this the forum and it's builds are my inspiration.
what does URT stand for?

 

[DIY_turbo]

Hi Izeman,

Nice build!

Do you know the exact brand and kind of epoxy you used for mounting the reed switch and magnet to the brake lever?

Thanks!

 

[izeman]

thanks for the nice works. i'm not 100% sure what epoxy this was, as it was done month ago, and i got at least 5+ different brands. i like to experiment a lot with epoxy
but for this install it's more or less of no interest. use whatever you have, as there is no load on the switch. i guess i used uhu endfest.