controllers

29a

100 W
Joined
Nov 26, 2006
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I don't understand what i'm looking 4 in a controller. R the ratings (20/30/40 amp) the current limit (suppressing current through) or r they the current rating (the current the components can haddle) +how does this relate to motor or am i totally off track.
I'm specifically looking at pheonix brute, front wheel, instant start, 4840 http://www.electricrider.com/crystalyte/phoenix.htm

could anyone help me out
info or links appreciated
 
29a said:
I don't understand what i'm looking 4 in a controller. R the ratings (20/30/40 amp) the current limit (suppressing current through) or r they the current rating (the current the components can haddle) +how does this relate to motor or am i totally off track.
I'm specifically looking at pheonix brute, front wheel, instant start, 4840 http://www.electricrider.com/crystalyte/phoenix.htm

could anyone help me out
info or links appreciated

The current rating is the max current the controller will allow to the motor (thus take from the batteries). You also have to take into account voltage. If the controller is a 20 amp controller @ 36 volts for example, multiple the two together and it will tell you how many watts that controller can handle and send to the motor. In that example, it would be 720 watts.

You use this to figure out if:
  1. Can my motor handle that much power
  2. Can my batteries handle that drain without damage
  3. Higher amps means more brute power for hills and acceleration
 
I'm using this same 4840 controller, and I have some concerns... I'm pushing about 60v (actually 58.9 from fully charged lipoly), and I'm concerned about controller failure due to the high starting voltage. Is there a better controller selection for me that will retire this concern? My very expensive battery is not something I can retire, so consider the voltage a constant. Also, I know I could go to a higher voltage controller, but what about low voltage cutoff points? Is there anyone who "beefs up" these controllers professionally?

I'm pushing a Phoenix Cruiser setup... I've heard that Clyte controllers are a bit fragile in general? This seems to be true of all ebike controllers, IMO

Steve
 
I don't want to get into the controller business, but I have posted enough information for anyone with decent soldering skills to do their own.
I hope at some point controllers will be available with upgraded components already installed. No estimate on when that will happen.

I'm running one controller with IRFB3808's, which are rated for 75v, with a 60v battery (~65v off the charger). No problems so far.

You can leave the low voltage cutout points alone and use a voltmeter to monitor the pack voltage.
 
here, here :!:
Thanks Fechter


I would like to point out to the unexperienced solderer even though all the info is there and very well presented these mods do require skill with a soldering iron. If your not sure or don't have a spare controller try local electronic component stores they will do the mod for a price if you provide all the info and parts.
 
29a said:
here, here :!:
Thanks Fechter


I would like to point out to the unexperienced solderer even though all the info is there and very well presented these mods do require skill with a soldering iron. If your not sure or don't have a spare controller try local electronic component stores they will do the mod for a price if you provide all the info and parts.

Yes, good soldering skill is necessary. If you are a real newbie and want to learn, I recommend finding some old circuit boards, like from a dead TV or something and practice removing and replacing parts. I learned by lots and lots of practice.
 
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