Cycle Analyst V3 preview and first beta release

[IdleUp]

Thanks for the reply's guys - one of the guys I bike with told me because the Firmware on the Lectric Cycle 750 watt Bafang is somewhat different, it would not like
what version 3 was doing - you guys are the experts what do you think?

Thanks

Mike

 

[johnnyz]

Ok after talking to the guy who wrote the book on the CA v3, I decided to go to the beginning and actually perform some tests, read, and perform more tests...well I got stuck on page 25, attempting to get the throttle voltage range.

YES my Crystalyte Controller is fully compatable with the CAv3 which would qualify it as D) v2 legacy Mode operation.

I then followed the following instructions; thrI>Cntrlmode=Passthru
and ThrO>MaxOut=3.65

got to page 25 in an attempt to map out the throttle range from 0-3+ volts and nothing happens...

I set ThrI>cntrmode=passthru (no explanation on what this means, I am assuming it gives CA control of certain parameters of the throttle)
and then got into the Setup Throt In screen and watched as I twisted the throttle and got 0.01 v and some flickering and thats it.

Extremely UN intuitive. In order to follow the instructions without confusion the writer cannot possibly assume the reader knows nothing about any of this, making a go of even following these instructions difficult.

Any advice would be appreciated

John

 

[teklektik]

YES my Crystalyte Controller is fully compatable with the CAv3 which would qualify it as D) v2 legacy Mode operation.

Back in "3.2 Operating Modes: Normal vs Legacy" on page 12 the chart shows you that legacy mode is going to run like a V2 and does not provide any of the enhanced throttle features that address your 'twitchy' throttle problem. IMHO you should be using the V3 in normal mode which would be choice 'B' on page 15. Crippling it to run in V2 mode is seldom a good idea and particularly in this case where the features you lose are the features you need. (The normal vs legacy mode comparison chart is actually reproduced on the previous page of this thread.)

I set ThrI>cntrmode=passthru (no explanation on what this means, I am assuming it gives CA control of certain parameters of the throttle).
...
Extremely UN intuitive. In order to follow the instructions without confusion the writer cannot possibly assume the reader knows nothing about any of this, making a go of even following these instructions difficult.

As described in "2.4.2 Navigating / Editing Setup Parameter Screens" on page 10:

• 
  "Setup parameters are described in detail on the Grin Tech V3 web page."
  Visiting the V3 web page, we see:
  

  Cntrl Mode: Allows you to select the function of the users input throttle
  

  • Pass-Thru: User throttle is linearly remapped from the input throttle range to the output throttle range, and then passed on to the output.

There is no assumption that you know any of this - just that you start at the beginning and read it. The Grin Tech V3 page explains many bits about the V3 and there is no point in duplicating that material in the Guide. If you don't avail yourself of available Grin Tech information, the Guide will be especially confusing. Beyond that, each section of the Guide builds on information given in earlier sections and only introduces new material as it is needed. If you skip sections or try to use it as a reference manual instead of a step by step installation guide there will appear to be vital information absent that was actually presented in an earlier section.

got to page 25 in an attempt to map out the throttle range from 0-3+ volts and nothing happens...
...
and then got into the Setup Throt In screen and watched as I twisted the throttle and got 0.01 v and some flickering and thats it.

Since you had decided to set up for legacy mode, the section "1.EITHER – for 'Normal' Operation (CA Provides Throttle)" on page 25 does not apply and could not work.
You should have followed the steps in section "2.OR – for 'Legacy' Operation (CA Limits Operator Throttle)" on page 26.

I recommend you reconsider your choice and and start the whole shebang again doing a normal mode installation.

 

[johnnyz]

Since you had decided to set up for legacy mode, the section "1.EITHER – for 'Normal' Operation (CA Provides Throttle)" on page 25 does not apply and could not work.
You should have followed the steps in section "2.OR – for 'Legacy' Operation (CA Limits Operator Throttle)" on page 26.

I recommend you reconsider your choice and and start the whole shebang again doing a normal mode installation.

ok...lol...wow!...When I contacted John at Grin he said that the CA v3 was plug and play with my Crystalyte controller. ...That is; the six pin connector was all that was needed...In the diagram in " Normal mode" there is an addition that the throttle has to be hooked up to" and therefore is NOT plug and play since there is modifications to the 6 pin wiring that has to be made. That is why I did not choose this method. Also, when talking to the vendor to whom I bought my Controller, he said a customer hooked up the controller with the 6 pin connector AND the throttle and blew up the controller...therefore I am assuming that perhaps he didnt read on page 16 c. Case 3 "The throttle and CA interface connectors must not be plugged in at the same time-use one or the other-not both"...

Ok...i will do this simple modification..I guess that is why the CA couldnt "map the throttle"...and the way the CA is currently configured on my bike is more of a passive display although limits such as amps, watts, and speed appear to be operational.

I'll let you know....

John

 

[johnnyz]

Well....this time I disconnected the throttle coming from the controller and connected the throttle to the CA and left the 6 pin connector from the controller to the CA as per page 15 A) Normal mode Operation with large Screen Compatible Interface....

Turned on power...and the CA is flashing on and off with nothing else. Disconnected this connection and reverted back to previous "legacy mode"....

"Frustration" doesnt begin to address it.


John

 

[teklektik]

John-
A few things - all in the vein of "don't mix advice":

1. The vendor is clueless.
   There is no way to "blow up a controller" by hooking up a throttle. If you want to follow his advice, please do exactly what he recommends and be done with it.
   
   
2. If you want to have Grin Tech assist you, please do.
   I have already recommended this to you by PM - it is the best choice and will give you the personalized technical assistance you seem to need. However, if you do that, don't burden them with the tales from the vendor or instructions from the Guide - do what they ask. Period.
   
   
3. If you want assistance here, then do not make decisions or post up information from other sources. This is unhelpful and confusing to everyone.
   Do what the Guide says or post questions, but don't try to mix and match facts from multiple sources to make sense of things - the Guide lays out everything you need - it is step by step with no guesswork or decisions required. Don't assume something should be connected or that somehow something should be working that hasn't been specifically called out.

The Guide was written by an ES member to help moderately knowledgeable techie DIYers do installations. It is a document from Endless Sphere - not a product of Grin Tech - and the ebikes.ca guys have ways of getting your CA running that do not involve the Guide at all. Do not expect that they are necessarily well-versed in its details. In the end, if the Guide is not useful to you, then you simply need to explore other options better suited to your needs to get your CA running.


That said, I will give this one last go.

It is unclear to me at this time what has actually been done and whether or not your controller is 'Large Screen Compatible' or 'V2 Compatible'. Crystalyte wires their controller CA-DP connectors according to directions provided to them by Grin Tech. The issue here is more or less the age of your controller, since all new ones are 'Large Screen Compatible'. In any case, there is no reason to guess - the test in the first step of installation on page 15 gives the answer with certainty...

• Restore the CA and controller to their original form (undo any wiring changes you have made and make sure the controller works w/o the CA attached).
• Restore the CA to default settings as described in "H.4 Restoring Factory Default Parameter Settings".
• Go to page 15 and perform steps 1(a) through 1(h) exactly.
• Post back if the motor ran spontaneously in step 1(f).

Frankly, if this is a new controller, we expect the motor to run, but whatever it does guides the remainder of the installation - with no guesswork and no tales from other sources. Cut and dried.

 

[johnnyz]

Ok...well since I dont have the cable to refresh the settings in the CA, I will have to wait until I order one from Grin Tech. Frankly, this should able to be done via the CA itself from a PROM chip, never the less, I have contacted them and when I can reset the CA then we can start again.

By the way, without FACTS, blindly following a "guide" without KNOWING exactly how something works or why it doesnt, inevitably will lead to a situation in which in this example( the writer of the manual) doesnt include most possible scenarios, or an explanation as to the particular working of each function, to getting "stuck" and then choosing a best guess or possibility based on the limited information available.

I already said the motor was running..actually quite fine..didnt have a runaway situation etc. Just have the little bit of jerkiness at cruise.

A person can be brilliant at something, but teaching the information to a "lay person" without assumptions is another matter entirely.

J

 

[teklektik]

By the way, without FACTS, blindly following a "guide" without KNOWING exactly how something works or why it doesnt, inevitably will lead to a situation in which in this example( the writer of the manual) doesnt include most possible scenarios, or an explanation as to the particular working of each function, to getting "stuck" and then choosing a best guess or possibility based on the limited information available.

I have already indicated the audience for which the Guide was written (not a 'lay person' at all) and recommended that you pursue personal assistance from Grin Tech. It's been your choice to continue to try use a document that you find seriously and obviously deficient.

As I told you both here and by PM, don't 'experiment', don't make 'best guesses' if you get stuck - post a question and we'll get you moving forward again. The decision and consequences of doing otherwise are on you.

In this first step of the installation instructions, you had only to make two settings and see if the motor spun. The explanation for the rationale of this test is lengthy and unnecessary for this initial step to simply identify the interface type. You frankly don't need to know any facts to do those simple steps. That you insist on explanation has nothing to do with the Guide and everything to do with you. Either the motor spins or it doesn't. There's no grey area, no other 'possible scenarios' to cover.

The Guide is what it is - no apologies.
If you don't like it. Don't use it.
Simple.

I already said the motor was running..

The request above in (A) to make sure the controller and motor worked was to ensure your restoration to the original wiring and connection was successful. The question in (D) as to whether the motor ran after step 1(f) was to get the critical result of the test - the whole point of the exercise. Whether the motor ran originally has no bearing on following the steps in the Guide...

There are certainly means that get your CA in a sufficiently known state to proceed without a cable and get your CA running today, but you have made it crystal clear that you find neither the Guide nor the assistance offered here to be helpful.
No problem - sorry we're not on the same page.
Hope you get this sorted.

 

[johnnyz]

You know what...ive had enough of your condescending remarks...really quite enough...you make comments WITHOUT ANY REAL HELP AT ALL..You say well you can get the CA back to original settings without a cable but then make another condescending remark that I dont want or need any help, but DONT SAY HOW THIS IS DONE. As a matter of fact you havent been helpful at all. How do you get the CA back to original parameters without a cable?...can you actually answer one question?...I asked you other questions like why I hooked up the CA,controller and Throttle as per the diagram on page 16 at the bottom of the page, as according to you its quite simple if "I follow instructions" and it still didnt work and the CA was blinking on and off...any solution or even a hint of why this was from you?...no...just more negative and condescending remarks. The guys at Grin are actually helpful and actually LISTEN to the question and respond in kind.

John

 

[teklektik]

John-
Here's the thing - which I explained in a PM with you - the Guide has a series of step by step instructions that get the job done. The CA has a lot of settings that interact in unexpected ways and it's simply too time consuming to have folks post up all their settings or upload settings files and try on a case by case basis to make sense of each unique composite bunch of settings. The Guide is simply a bunch of canned steps to minimize the time it takes to get each individual build on the road - in part by having folks only make very specific changes to the defaults.

We tried more than once to get you through the steps and it simply didn't work. My last try was to have you do steps 1a to 1h and report the results so I could lead you through the installation and show you exactly what page to go to and what to do. What I got was a lot of complaining and you still didn't do the few simple steps and report whether or not the motor ran.

Asking you to make some simple settings and report back so we can get your bike on the road is what I call 'helping'.

Unfortunately, your response is to post back and complain about the CA, complain about the Guide, complain about the 'help', and still not bother to do what was asked.

The bottom line is that if you can not or will not perform some simple tests and report back the results, there is nothing I can do with certainty.

As for the cable and resetting your CA to defaults - I asked you to do that back in a PM. You apparently didn't do it because you have no cable, but you never mentioned that. We're only hearing about it now, so this whole enterprise here in the thread is not starting from real defaults where I expected you'd be - because you didn't do what was asked and didn't say so. You did not come back and ask for alternatives, you hid the shortfall the first time and made pronouncements about delays and getting the cable the second time. Skipping steps and hiding problems is not assisting and looking for solutions.

• FWIW: Here's a shotgun alternative - download and install the Software Setup Utility as instructed by the Guide - I have sent you to that page more than once now. Follow the steps up until section "H.4.1 Loading the Default Setup File" and instead of downloading the file, manually make the settings in your CA that you see on the screen. I know that being asked to follow instructions is 'condescending', but...

I have specifically recommended that you go to Grin several times and I'm certain they can help you - that's why I made a point of sending you there. This isn't some contest; the Guide is written only for the knowledgeable DIYer, but the guys at Grin deal with customers with a wide range of expertise and frankly are much better helping many folks than I am - I knew that when I sent you there...

So - as I said before, the Guide and my help are not working for you (or me). No problem. Move on to something else that does work for you.
And again, hope you get this sorted.

 

[johnnyz]

Figured out how to reset all stock parameters using CA setup utility...very simply just copied the defaults into the CA of which I only changed a few. DONE.
Then went right back to the beginning..hooked up the CA as per PAGE 15 throttle to throttle connector and 6 pin connector to 6 pin connector on controller. Went to attempt to set throttle input voltages and no indication that anything was happening...no slider (never has been) nothing, so It seemed to me that the controller I had had to be set up as per B Normal Mode Operation with "v2 compatable"interface (V3 retrofit to older controller) and when I connected my throttle to the throttle connector on the CA (The throttle was no longer connected to the controller) again I had a flashing screen on the CA..SO i thought maybe the wiring on my throttle didnt correspond to the wiring on the throttle pin of the CA. Turns out that was the case as the negative and 5v were reversed. Fixed this and Viola! I now had a slider when i twisted the throttle..I was also able to map out the voltages as per page 25. Marked down the min and max and added .15 and subtracted .15 respectively. BUT!!!..now there was NO POWER to the motor!. I thought well...going back to page 16 that I should modify the controller wiring (simply cut the green wire coming out of the controller and routing this into the green wire or signal wire of the controller's throttle. STILL NOTHING.

I apologize if I appeared curt...this is frustrating and shouldnt have taken it out on you...I'll evetually get it...must be something in the controller thats stopping the throttle signal...

STUCK AGAIN...I really really followed ALL the instructions and well...am still stuck..how bloody crazy is that!!!

John

 

[Ecyclist]

Hi guys,
I have a GNG 1500W mid drive kit on my bike and I hooked up CA3 to enhance throttle operation. Can you post settings for CA3 running a GNG motor or a small block motor so I have some kind of starting point? Should I upgrade to the newest firmware or do it later? I still have a steep learning curve ahead of me and I'm hoping for a small shortcut.
Thank you.

Never mind. I poked around, changed some numbers and got it going the way I like it.
But I must say, I'm glad I kept the bike off the ground.
The good news is that with CA3 the bike has nice smooth acceleration. Time to install a kill switch just in case.

 

[Fastolfe]

I have a feature request (I've looked at the release notes for previous versions, and I don't think it's been implemented): would it be possible for the CA to output a timestamp field for each line sent to the serial port? You know, just a variable that increments in 0.2 second steps at every line, with "t" as a field name or something. That way, I wouldn't have to run my Analogger files through a script to add the timestamps for use in Dashware.

Just a nice-to-have. Not really important.

EDIT: oh, and another one: for some reason, the Cycle Analyst stops displaying the speed (it drops to 0) and stops updating the distance below 3 kph or so. I'm not sure if the speed limit is hard-coded or if it's because the time between magnet pickup ticks becomes too long. In other words, I don't know if adding a magnet to the wheel would lower the limit - I haven't tried - but it'd be nice if the limit could be lowered in the firmware without adding another magnet. I very often grind uphill at speeds under 3 kph

 

[teklektik]

...would it be possible for the CA to output a timestamp field for each line sent to the serial port? You know, just a variable that increments in 0.2 second steps at every line, with "t" as a field name or something. That way, I wouldn't have to run my Analogger files through a script to add the timestamps for use in Dashware.

Ya - I ran into exactly the same issue with Dashware some years back - when it wasn't free and didn't even have a version number...
The present record length is getting close to the transmission limit at the present baud rate (there are bench applications for the CA that use a record rep rate higher than 5hz). In fact, if you look at the log records in the latest 3.1 beta firmware, you'll see that we have actually trimed some needless precision from select columns to shorten the record length.

So - I don't think a timestamp field will be added to the serial data log, but an argument might be made for such a field conditionally at lower record rates. I cut a ticket for it and we'll see how it goes. Thanks for the suggestion.

...the Cycle Analyst stops displaying the speed (it drops to 0) and stops updating the distance below 3 kph or so. I'm not sure if the speed limit is hard-coded or if it's because the time between magnet pickup ticks becomes too long. In other words, I don't know if adding a magnet to the wheel would lower the limit - I haven't tried - but it'd be nice if the limit could be lowered in the firmware without adding another magnet. I very often grind uphill at speeds under 3 kph

Actually, adding another magnet would not lower that limit - it's related to fixed timing to suppress spurious signals from the wheel pickup. Additional magnets make the speed update more quickly above that limit, but the related noise suppression interval changes proportionately with pole count so the lowest speed remains essentially unchanged. For most, this speed is not a problem, but it looks like you are one of the few that are affected by the speedo implementation. I do take your point and I'll add it to the 'would be nice' list, but my knee-jerk reaction is that it's more in danger of falling off the list than moving up.

In any case, this detail should be added to the Guide since it's come up as a question here more than once.

 

[Fastolfe]

The present record length is getting close to the transmission limit at the present baud rate (there are bench applications for the CA that use a record rep rate higher than 5hz). In fact, if you look at the log records in the latest 3.1 beta firmware, you'll see that we have actually trimed some needless precision from select columns to shorten the record length.

Ah yes, I didn't think about the baudrate. Well, I don't mean to suggest complicated things, but how about selectable fields - including a timestamp field - that the user can choose to include or not in each frame in the config? The setup menu could then limit either the number of fields the user wants or a refresh rate that is too high. Those who want to record a whole bunch of things could do so at a lower framerate, and those like me who just want to record a few parameters and a timestamp at a higher framerate, could do so as well.

Of course, all that is easier said than done...

Actually, adding another magnet would not lower that limit - it's related to fixed timing to suppress spurious signals from the wheel pickup. Additional magnets make the speed update more quickly above that limit, but the related noise suppression interval changes proportionately with pole count so the lowest speed remains essentially unchanged. For most, this speed is not a problem, but it looks like you are one of the few that are affected by the speedo implementation. I do take your point and I'll add it to the 'would be nice' list, but my knee-jerk reaction is that it's more in danger of falling off the list than moving up.

Yeah no problem. It's a very minor issue. I only get that when I climb 15% slopes or steeper without the motor. In fact, many times, I use it as a signal that I'm slacking off and I really should push harder on the pedals

Thanks for your reply.

 

[irq]

Hello Folks,

maybe someone could point me into the direction how to fix the following problem

CA is a v3 DPS, currently running with just one of the chinacheap dumb pas discs (at least the 5% less dumb one from grin which can detect fwd/rev). It works, but not like something i can say "YES! This! and nothing else" its more like meh... since this simple Setup feels like it knows 0% assist and 100% assist, and not much between that range. i also got a poti mounted, currently set to controll max amp setting.

what i tried to do is:

(stolen from the german pedelec forums, didnt ask for permission. judge me (not))

its called pseudo torque mode there, setup looks like this:


mount / connect a 2nd pas sensor, but a analog v5 and hook it up to the throttle input. than set the pas to something like 100w max, because the v5 should kick in at some point

v5 is directly wired to throttle input, no other changes are done

regarding them, settings should be like

- Autopas with max of ~100W
- Additional SEttings for Autopas to handle the swithover
-

and here starts the problem... my controller of choice is a infieon (PCB date 2016) with 12 Fet. after connecting the analog pas to throttle input, the lcd screen starts flickering, off on off on and so on. like i shortend something? or did i probably hit the max milliamps which can be supplied for external components?


more material can be found here: http://www.pedelecforum.de/forum/index.php?threads/cycle-analyst-und-pseudo-torque-modus.24588/


What do i want to do? a more natural pedaling feeling, several ppl report good sucess with this.

 

[teklektik]

and here starts the problem... my controller of choice is a infieon (PCB date 2016) with 12 Fet. after connecting the analog pas to throttle input, the lcd screen starts flickering, off on off on and so on. like i shortend something?

Ya - the flashing CA screen is usually an indicator of shorting the CA +5V to Gnd. In this case, I think you probably have the Analog PAS connector pinout mismatched with the CA throttle input. The proper throttle pinout appears in a couple of places in the Guide.

That is an interesting PAS hookup - I need to look at a better translation when it's not at the end of a long day.
The Guide does show a means to get cadence-scaled assist using just a simple PAS wheel that uses the CA power PID so the response should be similar - I think.
Anyhow - it would be good to hear your evaluation when you get this working to your satisfaction.

Thanks for the link

 

[izeman]

teklektik: just c&p and pm the text you're interested, and i'll translate it for you. no need to ask google for some bs translation

 

[irq]

hmm unless the colors are what they usually are (red +5v, white signal, black ground) i am 99% sure i did not mess up something. could the pas sensor "overload" the 5v provided by the throttle input of the CA? Whould it be worth to try with some kind of external power for the sonsor, a simple 8705 dc regulator or somewhere i should have a spare lm2596hv module.

btw, if translation is needed. feel free to tell what, i am also happy to help with

 

[teklektik]

teklektik: just c&p and pm the text you're interested, and i'll translate it for you. no need to ask google for some bs translation

PMed.
Many thanks!

 

[teklektik]

could the pas sensor "overload" the 5v provided by the throttle input of the CA? Whould it be worth to try with some kind of external power for the sonsor, a simple 8705 dc regulator or somewhere i should have a spare lm2596hv module.

btw, if translation is needed. feel free to tell what, i am also happy to help with

Yep, it could. This is discussed in "5.10 Powering Accessories with the CA" of the Guide. You can check the table to see how much capacity the CA has at your particular battery voltage. An easy hack is to run the 5V accessory (analog PAS unit in this case) off the controller 5V pin of the controller throttle connector.

i also got a poti mounted, currently set to controll max amp setting.

I might suggest that you use the pot for the PAS level instead if you go with a scheme without the external PAS unit. This at least gives you some on-the-fly assist control. IMO AutoPAS is not too attractive when there is no direct adjustment control. (see below)

Thanks for the translation offer - I've already taken up izeman (a long-time CA V3 beta tester) on a similar offer. I think I see what's being attempted but Google Translate messes up the details and we all know that's where the Devil lives...

Anyhow, to backtrack a little:

what i tried to do is:

(stolen from the german pedelec forums, didnt ask for permission. judge me (not))

its called pseudo torque mode there, setup looks like this:

• mount / connect a 2nd pas sensor, but a analog v5 and hook it up to the throttle input. than set the pas to something like 100w max, because the v5 should kick in at some point
• v5 is directly wired to throttle input, no other changes are done
  
  regarding them, settings should be like
  • - Autopas with max of ~100W
  • - Additional SEttings for Autopas to handle the swithover

What do i want to do? a more natural pedaling feeling, several ppl report good sucess with this.

Understood. Some thoughts:
I think you need to get better adjustment control for the PAS level. You external unit may provide this, but looking at a CA-only implementation, here are some options:

• you could try the pot set to PAS Assist as mentioned above instead of using the Aux input for throttle Amps control.
• you might download the 3.1 beta firmware which would give you two Aux channels, one for PAS and one for Amps Limiting
• you might try the setup in the Guide "6.6 PAS Assist Control without AUX Pot – DIY Virtual Torque Sensor" where you attach a pot to the PAS torque input so you can dial in a virtual torque and get rpm-scaled assist based on that. The regular Aux input can be used for Amps Limiting (This is what I use).

So - not pushing any of these, just laying out some options to get better controls...

I believe that options (c) offers a result similar to what the external PAS unit idea is trying to achieve (more on that later after I understand translation a bit better). The referenced ES download in the Pedelec Forum no longer exists, but it appears to be in the late 2013 timeframe. The old Guide from that era had essentially the same related sections and tables as the present version:

• 6.5 AutoTorqPAS – AutoPAS with RPM-Proportional Assist
• 6.6 PAS Assist Control without AUX Pot – DIY Virtual Torque Sensor

I believe one of the posters had some trouble getting the tables in those sections to work. If you decide to fall back to that approach, post up and I'll see if I can explain them a bit better. Basically, in these schemes, you get a fixed baseline assist level up to 55rpm cadence and then the assist level scales upward linearly with rpm over 55rpm.

 

[irq]

thanks for your indeep went though this i am already running 3.1b and up/down buttons configured as digiaux. until now i was too lazy to do extend the wiring and add my analog poti to it. or more like: only really ugly solutions with some ghetto look came to my mind yet. but probably mr. postman brought me the right thing to realize a non-ghetto solution (kingmeter handlebar buttons - up down and power, power will be misused to trigger a relais for my headlights). with this, my analog poti will be rewired.

buuut

i have seen the virtual torque solutions etc, but they somehow seemed to me like too much manual action is required. the analog pas sensor as additional one looked like "fire and forget" or better: wire and forget. but probably this is also just a illusion / misunderstanding from my side

anyway, i will try/compare both solutions! currently i am just a rather unregulated setup, autopas + watts up/down. which is more like 0 1 off / on. with the mac 12t its a ride on a rocket (at least until 20mph)

isnt here anyone from thun? give us pressfit compatible bb torque sensors

 

[mrbill]

Not sure if this helps, but I tried a variety of PAS modes and found in the end that I preferred the straight "AutoPAS" mode using Grin's 12-magnet PAS ring with analog pot. adjustment over the full power range and throttle override, also available at all power and speed levels. I seldom use the throttle, only when demanding bursts of power such as a short, steep uphill or starting from a stop, esp. when on an upgrade.

In 2013-2014 I had a Thun BB on my bike for a time, but after a year it malfunctioned, more than once crashing the CA3 with an diagnostic error screen. I had to use about 3-5mm of spacers on the right side to align the chain properly resulting in possibly greater bending loads on the axle and bearings, so I suspect the unit didn't have the durability I required. I was suspicious of the plastic shell that allowed the unit to deform under load, perhaps loosening the internal sensors. I could find no electrical short or other unexpected condition. I sent the unit back to Grin for analysis, but I don't think they've had time to perform a post-mortem.

I also tried the quasi-torque PAS mode that ramps power with RPM that teklektik published in the unofficial guide, and while I found it interesting, it didn't fit my riding style or work smoothly with my crank-drive system. I have found that I prefer an assist system that complements my pedaling effort rather than amplifies it.

I do find myself frequently adjusting the potentiometer settings to match assist power to my desired speed and pedaling effort. So I recommend locating the pot. where it can be reached easily with one hand.

 

[scrambler]

Did you ever try the BEAMts torque sensor?

It connects as a throttle pass-through so it seems easy to implement, and can eventually be combined with a regular cadence sensor for optimal benefits.

There is a User documented thread below
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=67086

Sensor sites:
http://www.beamtssample.com/
http://www.santamonicaev.com/page12/movies/index.html

 

[teklektik]

Did you ever try the BEAMts torque sensor?

Grin has done some work with this, both in the off-the-shelf form with a throttle-voltage-range output and using a stripped version with just a torque sensor output. Either work well with the V3.

There's not yet official support for the unit, but you shouldn't have issues hooking it up and a post here can get some assist if you get stuck...
So many projects, so little time...