grindz145
1 MW
Sweet tires!
Ebike road race bike: Questions and build info
- Thread starter Jay64
- Start date
Jay64
100 kW
I think my build will probably be a little underpowered compared to some of the bikes there, so I think I will need to over ride the bike in the corners to make up for that. So I'm looking to get tires that can handle those cornering speeds.
Jay64
100 kW
Well, unfortunately the shop that told me they could make anything I could imagine are now telling me they are too busy to talk to me. Looks like I might have to run on a non extended frame. Either that, or I might end up going with a xtracycle, but won't have suspension.
Thud
1 MW
Suspension is over-rated on the kart track Jay,
Just show up in e-tards neigborhood the week of the race & we'll chop you a frame so sweet you'll want to put the harley motor in it for next season.
I don't know your personal skill set when it comes to building the bikes...but I am sure you have some favorite geometries & know when one feels right.
we modded Lukes hub-motor in the howard Johnsons parking lot & did 99% of the final assembly in my motel room right up to the last minute in Touscon. He didn't figure out the hall combo till the last practice laps LOL! we are all on the same team as far as I am concerend(untill the green flag flies
)
Just show up in e-tards neigborhood the week of the race & we'll chop you a frame so sweet you'll want to put the harley motor in it for next season.
I don't know your personal skill set when it comes to building the bikes...but I am sure you have some favorite geometries & know when one feels right.
we modded Lukes hub-motor in the howard Johnsons parking lot & did 99% of the final assembly in my motel room right up to the last minute in Touscon. He didn't figure out the hall combo till the last practice laps LOL! we are all on the same team as far as I am concerend(untill the green flag flies
)
MotorBicycleRacing
100 W
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2011
- Messages
- 150
That's true and the Grange track is pretty smooth but what about the offThud said:
road supermoto section of the track that you ebikes have to traverse?
Jay64
100 kW
I have to go to an ICE motorcycle event in georgia the week before and then drive to Cali. So I don't know how early I can get there. I don't have any experience in building bicycle frames, and I have no idea what geometry will work good for a bicycle. I just want to have something that is in the ballpark and I can ride around any handeling issues. I just wanted something beefy So that the back wheel doesn't snap off Mid corner. :lol: :lol:
Thud
1 MW
You just trying to cause trouble? :lol: (you can fill in the rest buddy LOL)
Motocross is where I live Neil....& I have never seen a motard dirt section that in any way challenged the riders......just the tires.
Jay64
100 kW
I don't know Thud, I don't think your BMX build can handle a mild BMX section. Thud, that just gave me an awesome idea. There is a BMX track about a mile from my house. I had totally forgot about it. I wonder if they will let me run my bike out there for training. If not, maybe I can take it to the 16,000 acre dirtbike park, but that is about an hour away in my truck.
If not, maybe I can take it to the 16,000 acre dirtbike park, but that is about an hour away in my truck.
Jay64
100 kW
Ok, I got most of my build planned out and started ordering parts, and then there is a last minute rule change from one of the get togethers I was planning on going to. So I was planning on doing a left side rear freewheel and Pirelli ML 75 tires on a 20" rim. Now I need to have a rear brake. If I use the left side freewheel, I won't be able to put a disk brake on that side, can I? And since I don't have the Pirelli tires yet, I don't know for sure, but I believe that these will prevent me from using a rim brake. Anyone who has used these know if a rim brake can be used with them? Another option might be to try to do a chopper bit and use the rear sprocket as a disk brake as well, but if I go that route, I might have to do a solid mount rear sprocket and go with a freewheel on the motor side. As stated earlier, motor side freewheel is the better way to go anyways, so it might be better to get it done this way.
Thud
1 MW
You can get V brakes on there easy enough Jay, the tires arent that big. Just use standard MNT bike parts & stay away from the smaller BMX v brakes.
here is an easy adapter:
http://www.danscomp.com/products-PARTS-BRAKEACCESS/489051/V-Brake_Plate.html
I have seen the top hat adapters used with the rear discs but i don't have any combo's that work. maybe caus of my wider #35 choice of chain.
gotta get etards setup rebuilt & sent back out to him this week for sure.
32 days till the event.
here is an easy adapter:
http://www.danscomp.com/products-PARTS-BRAKEACCESS/489051/V-Brake_Plate.html
I have seen the top hat adapters used with the rear discs but i don't have any combo's that work. maybe caus of my wider #35 choice of chain.
gotta get etards setup rebuilt & sent back out to him this week for sure.
32 days till the event.
AussieJester
1 TW
I managed to fit disk brake rotor and solid mounted sprocket on the left side Jay, would likely mean chopping and modifying chain and seat stays to do it on your frame however :-(
If I was building a race bike for this event, I wouldn't be using a freewheel at all, the freewheel is the answer for street riding etc, but for racing (if not using RC esc) I think the cogging of the motor would be like compression you get on ICE motored bikes when you let off the Gogo juice and don're engage the clutch, have to be better for backing the bike into corners super-motard styling' to Jay! the freewheeling on the bicycle when motor driven has to make controlling the bike whilst on the back wheel a lot harder also!....oh, for the efficiency conscious you could hook Regen up too, get a lil energy back .. jm2cw
KiM
If I was building a race bike for this event, I wouldn't be using a freewheel at all, the freewheel is the answer for street riding etc, but for racing (if not using RC esc) I think the cogging of the motor would be like compression you get on ICE motored bikes when you let off the Gogo juice and don're engage the clutch, have to be better for backing the bike into corners super-motard styling' to Jay! the freewheeling on the bicycle when motor driven has to make controlling the bike whilst on the back wheel a lot harder also!....oh, for the efficiency conscious you could hook Regen up too, get a lil energy back .. jm2cw
KiM
Jay64
100 kW
Actually, now that you mention it, this is going to be a purpose built bike. Ok, if you don't mind my bicycle ignorance, how can I set up a sprocket and disk brake on the left side? Do I just need to get a disk brake compatible hub and space the two out from each other?
Jay64
100 kW
I really want to use regen, if nothing else than to just work out some details/plans that I have for some other builds. I REALLY want to have the feel of engine braking. I want to feel like I just grabbed two hard down shifts and dumped the clutch to back it in. The 20 Ah batts that I might end up using due to cost recommend a 0.5c charge rate though. How much input can one expect from regen? I might be able to parallel them up for 40Ah.
In the true spirit of racing, I'm gonna try to use this bike as a testing ground. Try some things, push some things past their limits.
In the true spirit of racing, I'm gonna try to use this bike as a testing ground. Try some things, push some things past their limits.
AussieJester
1 TW
Jay64 said:
Pretty much, recumpence sells a disk brake to sprocket adapter, I used one and, placed some 5mm
Spacers between the adapter and sprocket, lined the rotor mount holes up on the adapter and bolted the lot on as one...easy peasy...
KiM
Jay64
100 kW
Damn, are you talking about one of these???? 
AussieJester
1 TW
That is indeed what I am Talkin' bout Mr Jay I run 8in Hope floating rotor on the outside, sprocket inside, there is juuuuust sufficient clearance for the Hope 4 pot caliper to fit between sprocket/chain, with the 5mm spacers added between sprocket and the adapter...can find pics showing exactly how I did it, for you if you like Jay? Just a lil harder ATM as i'm posting from my mobile phone
KiM
I run 8in Hope floating rotor on the outside, sprocket inside, there is juuuuust sufficient clearance for the Hope 4 pot caliper to fit between sprocket/chain, with the 5mm spacers added between sprocket and the adapter...can find pics showing exactly how I did it, for you if you like Jay? Just a lil harder ATM as i'm posting from my mobile phone KiM
Jay64
100 kW
Ok, this is embarrasing. I am actually holding that part right now. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Hey, maybe I should use that. *thunks self in head* :lol:
I got a box full of stuff like this and I'm still trying to figure out what it all is. LMAO!
I would definately appreciate pictures, make sure I'm seeing this part the correct way (not exactly sure which is the inside and which is the outside.) Maybe it will be more clear once I get a disk brake rear hub to hold it up against. However, I am not in a rush to see it right this very second. I know how that stuff can be to try to get to and load while on the mobile. When you have time, and you can easily find it on a computer, I would appreciate it. If not, no biggie, I don't want you to be put out at all for my ignorance. :lol:
I got a box full of stuff like this and I'm still trying to figure out what it all is.
LMAO! I would definately appreciate pictures, make sure I'm seeing this part the correct way (not exactly sure which is the inside and which is the outside.) Maybe it will be more clear once I get a disk brake rear hub to hold it up against. However, I am not in a rush to see it right this very second. I know how that stuff can be to try to get to and load while on the mobile. When you have time, and you can easily find it on a computer, I would appreciate it. If not, no biggie, I don't want you to be put out at all for my ignorance. :lol:
Jay64
100 kW
So this is the other frame that I have which I'm going back and forth with on if I should use or not. 2 main advantages of using this over the tidal force is that for one, it is already a shitty frame, so I wouldn't feel any doubt about welding stuff onto it. I'm thinking of doing some welded shelves to help hold the battery boxes in place. And, I can put on a longer shock to make up some of the rear height lost by switching to a 20" rim.
View attachment 1
This is a threaded steerer, right?
View attachment 1
This is a threaded steerer, right?
AussieJester
1 TW
Yup that is indeed a threaded head tube Jay, hard to find decent forks for, the 1 1/8th is the
one you want, alot harder to find in steel very easy to find in aluminum, well, over in OZ anywayz
you prolly pick an old bike up there pretty easy?
Here's a few snaps of the rear setup on my bike, apologies its one BIG pic i assembled for the
2 speed cruiser worklog i did So, ...i think pics 13 onwards are the ones
that will be of most interest to you
lemme now if you need anything else buddy happy to help
with the bicycle stuff when i can...long as Thud don't mind me helping the opposition hehe j/k
KiM
one you want, alot harder to find in steel very easy to find in aluminum, well, over in OZ anywayz
you prolly pick an old bike up there pretty easy?
Here's a few snaps of the rear setup on my bike, apologies its one BIG pic i assembled for the
2 speed cruiser worklog i did So, ...i think pics 13 onwards are the ones
that will be of most interest to you
lemme now if you need anything else buddy happy to help
with the bicycle stuff when i can...long as Thud don't mind me helping the opposition
hehe j/k KiM
Jay64
100 kW
Kim, thank you very much. Those are some great pics. Beautiful work. Actually, I'm glad you posted the whole set. Pics 1-12 are extremely useful also, I am probably going to need to make a caliper mount as well. Of course, pic 16 is what I'm talking about, with the Bud. The pics were extremely helpful, I was thinking I was going to have to mount the rotor to the point on the adapter that the smaller sprocket was mounted to on mine. But from looking at your pics, it looks like you can still mount it the regular way, I'm guessing you just have to use longer screws to go through the rotor and the adapter. Have you, or anyone, happened to have used a cable actuated caliper? I'm thinking that maybe a cable actuated caliper might be thinner than the hydraulic one you have shown here. Maybe there will be less need for clearance? I was planning on running without a brake, so, I think the cable brake would suffice. Also be a little cheaper at this point of the game. Maybe run a hydraulic for the front.
I'm looking to change the forks to RST cappa 20" suspension forks. If I get those, I can get both steerers, so I can use it on either frame. I ordered a xtracycle extension, so I need to see which frame that will fit on. I'm thinking there is a distinct possibilty that it will not fit on the mongoose FS frame. I'm also thinking of possibly seeing what my chopper frame would do with regular forks. And that frame has a threaded steerer. So I might try to just throw the mongoose forks on the chopper just to see how it changes the geometry. Maybe if I put some regular bars on that instead of the 2 foot ape hangers it might actually steer worth a damn. :lol: And if I can do a brake setup like the one you pictured, it might actually be able to be used as a race bike. Right now it is only a coaster brake. Damn, maybe I should build a couple of bikes just in case one blows up. :lol: :lol:
Kim, once again, thank you for all the help.
Hey, is anyone doing ES decals yet? If I get this bike built, I definately want to be running ES on it.
The pics were extremely helpful, I was thinking I was going to have to mount the rotor to the point on the adapter that the smaller sprocket was mounted to on mine. But from looking at your pics, it looks like you can still mount it the regular way, I'm guessing you just have to use longer screws to go through the rotor and the adapter. Have you, or anyone, happened to have used a cable actuated caliper? I'm thinking that maybe a cable actuated caliper might be thinner than the hydraulic one you have shown here. Maybe there will be less need for clearance? I was planning on running without a brake, so, I think the cable brake would suffice. Also be a little cheaper at this point of the game. Maybe run a hydraulic for the front.I'm looking to change the forks to RST cappa 20" suspension forks. If I get those, I can get both steerers, so I can use it on either frame. I ordered a xtracycle extension, so I need to see which frame that will fit on. I'm thinking there is a distinct possibilty that it will not fit on the mongoose FS frame. I'm also thinking of possibly seeing what my chopper frame would do with regular forks. And that frame has a threaded steerer. So I might try to just throw the mongoose forks on the chopper just to see how it changes the geometry. Maybe if I put some regular bars on that instead of the 2 foot ape hangers it might actually steer worth a damn. :lol: And if I can do a brake setup like the one you pictured, it might actually be able to be used as a race bike. Right now it is only a coaster brake. Damn, maybe I should build a couple of bikes just in case one blows up. :lol: :lol:
Kim, once again, thank you for all the help.
Hey, is anyone doing ES decals yet? If I get this bike built, I definately want to be running ES on it.
Thud
1 MW
Jay, PM me a shipping adress & i'll hook you up with ES decal's. (spinning magnets sent me a couple pounds of them LOL)
As for a rear caliper....the more expensive ones are the lightweight & slim units that fit...I only have cable pull rear & they are all cheapo & hefty...but could prolly be thined down with a die grinder & some attitude.
If your looking for good deals on Bicycle components you can't beat PinkBikes for sale section. time is going to be an issue for anything you order now
Look at how many guys are "chicken footing" it in the videos without being anywhere near braking traction. I just worry Jay will get bored going so slow on e-bikes.
As for a rear caliper....the more expensive ones are the lightweight & slim units that fit...I only have cable pull rear & they are all cheapo & hefty...but could prolly be thined down with a die grinder & some attitude.
If your looking for good deals on Bicycle components you can't beat PinkBikes for sale section. time is going to be an issue for anything you order now
LMAO Kim, I need guys with real track experiance to keep me honest out there(untill i blow up)....A lot of guys really have no idea how much faster some one with any track time is going into the corners over guys who "think" they are fast. I am confident it will be fun chasing Jay & seeing who'l be the one to reach for the binders 1st. 8)
Look at how many guys are "chicken footing" it in the videos without being anywhere near braking traction. I just worry Jay will get bored going so slow on e-bikes.
Jay64
100 kW
Wait, we actually have to reach for the binders????? I thought they were just there to appease race control. :lol: :lol: :lol: j/k.
Jay64
100 kW
Thud said:I just worry Jay will get bored going so slow on e-bikes.
It's all relative. When I pull my race bike off the track and we HAVE to follow the 50mph speed limit, it feels like we're CRAWLING! But when I ride my ebike on the sidewalk I feel like 30mph is FLYING! :lol: :lol: I think 50mph at Grange will be a blast! I just need to hurry up and get a bike rolling so I can get a feel for the way it corners and such. Can't tell how fast you can go into a corner till you go past the limit once or twice. :lol: :lol: :lol:
Thud
1 MW
Jay64
100 kW
If I go with the pink frame, maybe I should get these pink w flower rotors from Hope. :lol:
