I was also toying with a Hailong 2 Side Release battery box which is available in 36V (10S4P) and 48V (13S3P) versions, but what I have is all I need really. As I usually do not remove the batteries I use a 90 degree DC power extension cable 5.5mm x 2.1mm right angle male to female plug jack pulled into the back of the battery with female end mounted in a mount stuck to the saddle tube to give a convenient charging point.
Full Suspension offroad/road TSDZ8
- Thread starter E-HP
- Start date
The obligatory duct tape test ride. I need to put a shunt on the battery output to see what actual watts/current are being delivered, since I’m see 1850-ish so watts with the battery at 57v. Motor feels smoother and the shudder at a certain rpm while accelerating WOT is gone. I was slightly disappointed seeing a 1.2v sag when pulling that current. I guess even these cells can’t match a high output lipo for voltage sag. Temps rose to 23C so only a degree more than when charging.
EDIT I had a second overcurrent error. About a block up a 15% grade, 2nd gear, throttle only. Very similar conditions as the last time it occurred when I first installed the motor.
EDIT I had a second overcurrent error. About a block up a 15% grade, 2nd gear, throttle only. Very similar conditions as the last time it occurred when I first installed the motor.
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More progress on my battery enclosure. Sanding the exterior and prepping for applying fake carbon fiber wrap. I attached the piano hinge for the access door using pop rivets from the inside out. It’s too tight for the battery otherwise. Im epoxying the hinge to the door, which is drying now.
I forgot to recess the ABS around the area where the bottle cage screws go, so I’ll need to do that too, so the screw head fit flush with the ABS, also for clearance.
The epoxy to bond the door to the piano hinge is still setting. I left the door rough, so. Ow that the hinge is installed, I can smooth out the contours. I still need to install the XT60 socket for the motor, but I may just add a grommet and pass the conductors through the wall. I had shortened the stock battery conductors on the motor to work the the old battery cradle, but now it’s too short to reach where the socket will be located. I could always change it later, and that would get me back on the bike with less hassle. I have enough of a gap between the door and case to add a rubber seal of some sort, but I can hold off on that.
I guess I could apply the wrap before the ride, since I need the case off the bike to apply it.
I forgot to recess the ABS around the area where the bottle cage screws go, so I’ll need to do that too, so the screw head fit flush with the ABS, also for clearance.
The epoxy to bond the door to the piano hinge is still setting. I left the door rough, so. Ow that the hinge is installed, I can smooth out the contours. I still need to install the XT60 socket for the motor, but I may just add a grommet and pass the conductors through the wall. I had shortened the stock battery conductors on the motor to work the the old battery cradle, but now it’s too short to reach where the socket will be located. I could always change it later, and that would get me back on the bike with less hassle. I have enough of a gap between the door and case to add a rubber seal of some sort, but I can hold off on that.
I guess I could apply the wrap before the ride, since I need the case off the bike to apply it.
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Ugh. The creaking sound is back. Worked great for a few days then slowly came back, so rotating the cranks was only a temporary solution. I may take the motor off tomorrow to do an inspection, then clean up the surfaces and try to lock it down good. I may get a start on constructing battery enclosure #2 since I got more ABS a few days ago.
It will be a full year next week since i crashed my other bike. I think I’ll start the reassembly then, or at least enough to determine how I will change mounting my controller and a couple of the batteries. I also need to take good care of measurement of the hub circumference to plan out the heat sink arrangement. But I'm digressing…
Anyway, I hope I can get rid of the creaking once and for all. It’s the only thing that detracts from an otherwise pleasant ride.
PS. I decided to see what parts might still be available for my rear hub since the free hub was fairly worn. I searched for my hub, and found them used for around $250-$350!
crazy for a 30 year old hub. New models are around $500. I’m guessing a replacement freehub might be very costly, so I’d better not abuse the one I have.
It will be a full year next week since i crashed my other bike. I think I’ll start the reassembly then, or at least enough to determine how I will change mounting my controller and a couple of the batteries. I also need to take good care of measurement of the hub circumference to plan out the heat sink arrangement. But I'm digressing…
Anyway, I hope I can get rid of the creaking once and for all. It’s the only thing that detracts from an otherwise pleasant ride.
PS. I decided to see what parts might still be available for my rear hub since the free hub was fairly worn. I searched for my hub, and found them used for around $250-$350!
crazy for a 30 year old hub. New models are around $500. I’m guessing a replacement freehub might be very costly, so I’d better not abuse the one I have.
Last time it was clicking noise. Is creaking a different noise? How do you know it's coming from the motor and not elsewhere?
Nope. It was between that and the leaf 4 years ago though. The leaf still looks brand new inside, so I won’t need another hub for a while.
For this bike, it’s not too bad on 14S. Performance is decent when the pack is above 50V, and with the Bluetooth BMS, I can monitor the temps and voltage remotely, so I can leave the garage with less paranoia, and it takes only 50 minutes to charge since I only use about 7Ah in a typical ride now. Worst thing about the bike is, no rack.
Rotating the crank arms 90 degrees got rid of the noise, without any other changes, so I know it’s somewhere down by the left crank arm. It’s a clicking sound, but not a single click, almost crunchy, when the crank arm is in a certain position.
The most common cause of such a sound is a cracked bearing race on the crankshaft itself, with a normal bike BB. I don't know hte drive system you're using well enough to say if it has such a bearing problem from that noise, but its something to check.
I think I saw a disassembly/tear down video somewhere. I'll do some searching.
Depending how good a fit bearings are in their housing / on the shaft it could be a cracked inner or outer race. I ask the question I have had a cracked ball bearing in a pedal before. Normal bike tools, circlip pliers and a seal pick should be all one needs, then a new seal and which ever bearing has gone.
Thanks. Is there a fix, or if left as is, is it something that will fail soon, once the clicking starts?
The loose fit of the TSDZ2 outer axle shaft bearings is a known issue. Whether it is the cause of the clicking or not I am not sure but it does sound reasonable that it can. I recall reading some people tried to find tighter fit bearings. Some people used thread lock but that makes it hard to remove the bearing when a teardown is needed. I didn't do anything to mine other than add more bearings for extra support. Motor has 1942 miles and running fine so far.
What does that involve?
Also, have folks that had the clicking issue end up with failures, or is it just an irritation?
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slaphappygamer
10 kW
I found this thread. It’s a noisy bafang mid drive motor. I know you have the TSDZ8, but the symptoms seem similar. Check the video. The user had a condition they can reproduce and the noise was caused by a mounting deviation.
Have you tracked down the source of the noise yet?
