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Grin's All Axle 45mm Single Speed motor

neptronix

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Staff member
Joined
Jun 15, 2010
Messages
22,468
Location
Utah, USA
I've been waiting for something that's a generational leap over the Leafbike 35mm in power to weight ratio for over a decade and i was very happy to see this on grin's site today:

Introducing Max45 Single Speed. All that Power on Even More Platforms

1769974805829.png
I'm alarmed by such a wide dropout width. So i decided to measure my late 2020 era bike and i found the dropouts are already 137.5mm wide uncompressed. So, the chainstays each bend inwards by 1.25mm already when the wheel is clamped on.

2026-02-01 12_55_10-Hubs - neptronix@gmail.com - Gmail.jpg

With this motor, each chainstay moves outwards by 1.5mm instead.
Seeing that, this doesn't seem like an unreasonable amount of additional bending.

Power wise, you are looking at 2500w continuous in a 29 inch wheel at high voltage.

1769976839117.png

Hill climbing wise, if we downgear it a little with a 27.5" rear wheel, and run 52v, we see that it can do a 7.5% grade continuously for 24 miles without overheating.
That's stout for a DD, and statorade could be used to improve this further.
The smaller the wheel, the higher the continuous grade it can climb. In a 20", it can climb a 12% grade continuously, which is nuts.

1769977029882.png

Efficiency on the flats is outstanding at both ~40mph and during acceleration compared to a narrower motor.

1769980657540.png

The motor comes out to 6.2kg or 13.7lbs.

The main concern i have is that i like to pedal. That makes the 16T freewheel a huge negative.
It looks like a 14T freewheel could be used, which means you need a 64T chainring to pedal up to the top speed of 33mph in the above 52v / 27.5" scenario; this is doable.

1769980441515.png

On a 29er, you'd be able to pedal a bit beyond 35mph with the above setup.

Losing multiple gears is another negative. One thing you could do on a multi speed bike is to keep the rear deraileur and use a 3 speed derailleur up front.
This way you have a top speed gear, a climbing gear, and a much smaller gear for pedaling if the battery goes out.
With such high power on tap, 3 gears is enough ( shifting is basically optional ).

I don't know if it comes with a beefed up torque arm interface or not. If it doesn't, you probably want to keep battery amps constrained, as i have in these grin simulations.
At least one poster here destroyed the original torque arm interface on ~7.7kw peak: Salsa Blackborow with Grin Max45
This motor has a lot of torque per amp, so constrained amps isn't too bad. 3kw peak is my best guess on a sane limit for the original interface, if that's what this motor ships with.

If you get a flat, you'll find the motor much easier to get on/off the bike due to the way this kind of motor interfaces to the frame. This also makes the bike much easier to chuck into a small passenger car. I liked this very much about my 27mm all axle.

The price is currently ~$900 USD. About the cost of a high power mid power drive.
If you are in the USA, the motor is CUSMA compliant, so you shouldn't be paying a tariff on it.

As for me, i think i'll pick one up. My area is quite hilly and with powerful mid drives, i dislike the weird Q factors and lack of regen.

What's your thoughts on it?
 
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What's your thoughts on it?
1. I’m glad you’re taking the lead on this.
2. You can adapt your riding style to just ride at a comfortable cadence, regardless of bike speed, to get exercise, and then just throttle only faster for a while to make up any "lost" distance.
3. My only reservation is not having a low gear in case unassisted pedaling is necessary in the event of a controller failure, but it’s probably better to push rather than pedaling with that big motor anyway.
 
I have ordered one as well to replace my Bafang BBSHD after about 7 years of daily use, 30.000km on that bike and it shows...
Custom 14S10P lasercut battery still holding up really good, except for the cheap chinese bag it's in 😂

I opted for the Slow 5T wind with statorade and Gates CDX 22T gear and 148mm boost thru-axle.

Quantor Urkraft 5.0
In the process of ordering this bike with a 12 gear Pinion electronic gearbox (Pinion C1.12i SmartShift with speed sensor)
Gantes CDX Carbon belt instead of a chain for zero maintenance of the drive train.
Suntour Mobie 36 front fork with 220mm MT5e disc brakes for safety and comfort.
29" wheels although I might go for 27.5" in the back for a mullet hill climber, idk yet since I'm mostly just commuting with this bike.
(Every commute feels like a race to me)

VESC controller and BMS from Slovenia seems like the best option for my projected 24S battery pack:
Also not ordered yet but I doubt I'll find something better.

I'll try to design an easily removable 3D printed battery pack this time, so I can charge it inside during winter easily.
Hoping to get my hands on the Lishen LR21700SK cells.
Let me know if you have a good (cheap) supplier for these in EU.
24S4P is the plan but if I can fit 5P into the frames triangle then that's also an option.
Ordered a high voltage version Satiator (7205) charger from Grin as well to charge it.

I'm really hyped for this motor and it seems like a game changer to me, if your pockets are deep enough.
frock mid drives with their garbage chains and gears, I can't stand it anymore. And finally I'll also get to enjoy regen braking.
 
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I've been waiting for something that's a generational leap over the Leafbike 35mm in power to weight ratio for over a decade and i was very happy to see this on grin's site today:

Introducing Max45 Single Speed. All that Power on Even More Platforms

View attachment 383907
I'm alarmed by such a wide dropout width. So i decided to measure my late 2020 era bike and i found the dropouts are already 137.5mm wide uncompressed. So, the chainstays each bend inwards by 1.25mm already when the wheel is clamped on.

View attachment 383908

With this motor, each chainstay moves outwards by 1.5mm instead.
Seeing that, this doesn't seem like an unreasonable amount of additional bending.

Power wise, you are looking at 2500w continuous in a 29 inch wheel at high voltage.

View attachment 383923

Hill climbing wise, if we downgear it a little with a 27.5" rear wheel, and run 52v, we see that it can do a 7.5% grade continuously for 24 miles without overheating.
That's stout for a DD, and statorade could be used to improve this further.
The smaller the wheel, the higher the continuous grade it can climb. In a 20", it can climb a 12% grade continuously, which is nuts.

View attachment 383924

Efficiency on the flats is outstanding at both ~40mph and during acceleration compared to a narrower motor.

View attachment 383927

The motor comes out to 6.2kg or 13.7lbs.

The main concern i have is that i like to pedal. That makes the 16T freewheel a huge negative.
It looks like a 14T freewheel could be used, which means you need a 64T chainring to pedal up to the top speed of 33mph in the above 52v / 27.5" scenario; this is doable.

View attachment 383926

On a 29er, you'd be able to pedal a bit beyond 35mph with the above setup.

Losing multiple gears is another negative. One thing you could do on a multi speed bike is to keep the rear deraileur and use a 3 speed derailleur up front.
This way you have a top speed gear, a climbing gear, and a much smaller gear for pedaling if the battery goes out.
With such high power on tap, 3 gears is enough ( shifting is basically optional ).

I don't know if it comes with a beefed up torque arm interface or not. If it doesn't, you probably want to keep battery amps constrained, as i have in these grin simulations.
At least one poster here destroyed the original torque arm interface on ~7.7kw peak: Salsa Blackborow with Grin Max45
This motor has a lot of torque per amp, so constrained amps isn't too bad. 3kw peak is my best guess on a sane limit for the original interface, if that's what this motor ships with.

If you get a flat, you'll find the motor much easier to get on/off the bike due to the way this kind of motor interfaces to the frame. This also makes the bike much easier to chuck into a small passenger car. I liked this very much about my 27mm all axle.

The price is currently ~$900 USD. About the cost of a high power mid power drive.
If you are in the USA, the motor is CUSMA compliant, so you shouldn't be paying a tariff on it.

As for me, i think i'll pick one up. My area is quite hilly and with powerful mid drives, i dislike the weird Q factors and lack of regen.

What's your thoughts on it?
A cheap option is add a Bbso2 to a cheap 1500 watt hub. On the same hill with a mid drive combo your doing 34 mph vs 28 at 81% efficiency and never overheating. I would post the simulator but can't download a copy for some reason.
 
A cheap option is add a Bbso2 to a cheap 1500 watt hub. On the same hill with a mid drive combo your doing 34 mph vs 28 at 81% efficiency and never overheating. I would post the simulator but can't download a copy for some reason.

Not a power/weight/efficiency afficionado's ideal drivetrain, but i'm sure it works great.

I use greenshot on windows to take screenshots of the full screen or part of it; highly recommended
 
The main concern i have is that i like to pedal.
There's pedaling and there's pedaling. Me I like to pedal hard, even when riding my ebikes and that really requires a decent range of gears. Maybe not so granular many as on my unplugged bikes. On my ebikes (both 14-speeds, 7Rx2F) I mainly use 6 of the 7 rear cogs (could get by with 5 or maybe 4?) and often will shift onto the small front chainwheel when riding among more pedestrians or threading thru gridlocked traffic or technically tricky obstacles, for better control (throttle would be too twitchy). I could try some experiments with using only 3 gears but have a feeling it wouldn't work out, not being able to satisfy my preferred pedaling mode.

You need to reason it out if 3 wide-ratio gears (L-M-H?) could work with your preferred pedaling mode.
 
I'm also a full time pedaler. Why not get a runner's high and cardio gains while you're at it :)

I know that on my leafbike 1.5kw, i'd generally use 3 gears. It was nice to have 7 anyway for power out, or pedaling slowly around pedestrians type situations.

It did require a personal pan pizza sized chainring and 11t lowest rear gear to pedal up to 40mph with 26" wheels though.

hiryuu_spring.jpg


Another thought on the gearing situation.
If you had a freewheeling crank, you can go down to a 12T threaded cog and be pedaling up to 40mph.
If you have a non-indexing shifter with a wide range, you could use 4 gears using spacers on a 3 speed crank. ( good luck actually finding a 4 gear shifter )

Doable!
 
There's pedaling and there's pedaling. Me I like to pedal hard, even when riding my ebikes and that really requires a decent range of gears. Maybe not so granular many as on my unplugged bikes. On my ebikes (both 14-speeds, 7Rx2F) I mainly use 6 of the 7 rear cogs (could get by with 5 or maybe 4?) and often will shift onto the small front chainwheel when riding among more pedestrians or threading thru gridlocked traffic or technically tricky obstacles, for better control (throttle would be too twitchy). I could try some experiments with using only 3 gears but have a feeling it wouldn't work out, not being able to satisfy my preferred pedaling mode.

You need to reason it out if 3 wide-ratio gears (L-M-H?) could work with your preferred pedaling mode.

I'm also a full time pedaler. Why not get a runner's high and cardio gains while you're at it :)

I know that on my leafbike 1.5kw, i'd generally use 3 gears. It was nice to have 7 anyway for power out, or pedaling slowly around pedestrians type situations.

It did require a personal pan pizza sized chainring and 11t lowest rear gear to pedal up to 40mph with 26" wheels though.

hiryuu_spring.jpg


Another thought on the gearing situation.
If you had a freewheeling crank, you can go down to a 12T threaded cog and be pedaling up to 40mph.
If you have a non-indexing shifter with a wide range, you could use 4 gears using spacers on a 3 speed crank. ( good luck actually finding a 4 gear shifter )

Doable!
Looks like the leaf motor has a higher top end but going up steeper hills this one would take longer to overheat, you could get a slower turn leaf and be pretty close I would think.
 
Looks like the leaf motor has a higher top end but going up steeper hills this one would take longer to overheat, you could get a slower turn leaf and be pretty close I would think.
My 5T Leaf isn’t modeled for heat in the Grin simulator, however based on testing temps on known grades, it seems track pretty closely to the standard wind RH212, as far as efficiency goes under the same conditions. Comparing the RH212 with the 45mm all axle, the all axle takes roughly three times as long to overheat, when choosing grade where it actually does.

I watched a Johnny nerd out video comparing a Bbshd and all axle riding up a short steep hill. I was disappointed by the all axle performance in the test, then realized it was probably using a grin controller. I looked at the notes and he acknowledged it was an unfair comparison since the all axle was starved for phase amps. That made more sense, since the leaf at 72v would fly up that hill when provided the current it wants.
 
The leaf is a substantially weaker motor.

Here is a simulation where i added a little voltage to the Grin 45mm All Axle to make it an equivalent speed on the flat.
Motor Simulator - Web Tools - Resources

In the same 7.5% hill climbing test, the leaf is 5% less efficient. That motor is not thermally modeled but this tells me it would burn up in short order. Single digit % efficiency differences matter here.

1770158580445.png

You also notice quite a bit more torque output even at this wimpy 40A. That's the beauty of more copper/magnet/iron and less percentage of end turn losses.

You would say, well the leaf is better on the flats.. i'd disagree with that too, on flats we see ~3% better efficiency. So this motor is better in every way.

It's the same case with the cromotor.. that had a 50mm stator.. and it had a few % higher efficiency vs this 45mm at both low rpm and loaded rpm. But it also weighed 24lbs and required a 150mm dropout..
 
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The leaf is a substantially weaker motor.

Here is a simulation where i added a little voltage to the Grin 45mm All Axle to make it an equivalent speed on the flat.
Motor Simulator - Web Tools - Resources

In the same 7.5% hill climbing test, the leaf is 5% less efficient. That motor is not thermally modeled but this tells me it would burn up in relatively short order.

View attachment 384046

You also notice quite a bit more torque output even at this wimpy 40A. That's the beauty of more copper/magnet/iron and less percentage of end turn losses.

You would say, well the leaf is better on the flats.. i'd disagree with that too, on flats we see ~3% better efficiency. So this motor is better in every way.

It's the same case with the cromotor.. that had a 50mm stator.. and it had a few % higher efficiency vs this 45mm at both low rpm and loaded rpm. But it also weighed 24lbs and required a 150mm dropout..
I’m just waiting for info on your chain line and a few test ride reports.
 
Didn't somebody in the Salsa Blackborow thread mention they are updating part of the design to improve strength? If they solved the strength issue and it can handle more to it's true max that is very interesting.
 
Didn't somebody in the Salsa Blackborow thread mention they are updating part of the design to improve strength? If they solved the strength issue and it can handle more to it's true max that is very interesting.

Yes. I just can't tell from the pictures if this motor includes that upgraded interface or not.

If it is upgraded, then you can disregard my power suggestion and we are back to using the FAFO technique to find a recommendable maximum

2025-11-02 17_39_10-frock around find out - Google Search.jpg
 
Schlumpf Speed Drive or High-speed Drive planetary cranks, maybe with double chainrings and a front derailleur, would give a workable gearing range even with a single speed in the rear wheel. It is expensive, but less than the motor we are talking about.
 
I've been waiting for something that's a generational leap over the Leafbike 35mm in power to weight ratio for over a decade and i was very happy to see this on grin's site today:

Introducing Max45 Single Speed. All that Power on Even More Platforms

View attachment 383907
I'm alarmed by such a wide dropout width. So i decided to measure my late 2020 era bike and i found the dropouts are already 137.5mm wide uncompressed. So, the chainstays each bend inwards by 1.25mm already when the wheel is clamped on.

View attachment 383908

With this motor, each chainstay moves outwards by 1.5mm instead.
Seeing that, this doesn't seem like an unreasonable amount of additional bending.

Power wise, you are looking at 2500w continuous in a 29 inch wheel at high voltage.

View attachment 383923

Hill climbing wise, if we downgear it a little with a 27.5" rear wheel, and run 52v, we see that it can do a 7.5% grade continuously for 24 miles without overheating.
That's stout for a DD, and statorade could be used to improve this further.
The smaller the wheel, the higher the continuous grade it can climb. In a 20", it can climb a 12% grade continuously, which is nuts.

View attachment 383924

Efficiency on the flats is outstanding at both ~40mph and during acceleration compared to a narrower motor.

View attachment 383927

The motor comes out to 6.2kg or 13.7lbs.

The main concern i have is that i like to pedal. That makes the 16T freewheel a huge negative.
It looks like a 14T freewheel could be used, which means you need a 64T chainring to pedal up to the top speed of 33mph in the above 52v / 27.5" scenario; this is doable.

View attachment 383926

On a 29er, you'd be able to pedal a bit beyond 35mph with the above setup.

Losing multiple gears is another negative. One thing you could do on a multi speed bike is to keep the rear deraileur and use a 3 speed derailleur up front.
This way you have a top speed gear, a climbing gear, and a much smaller gear for pedaling if the battery goes out.
With such high power on tap, 3 gears is enough ( shifting is basically optional ).

I don't know if it comes with a beefed up torque arm interface or not. If it doesn't, you probably want to keep battery amps constrained, as i have in these grin simulations.
At least one poster here destroyed the original torque arm interface on ~7.7kw peak: Salsa Blackborow with Grin Max45
This motor has a lot of torque per amp, so constrained amps isn't too bad. 3kw peak is my best guess on a sane limit for the original interface, if that's what this motor ships with.

If you get a flat, you'll find the motor much easier to get on/off the bike due to the way this kind of motor interfaces to the frame. This also makes the bike much easier to chuck into a small passenger car. I liked this very much about my 27mm all axle.

The price is currently ~$900 USD. About the cost of a high power mid power drive.
If you are in the USA, the motor is CUSMA compliant, so you shouldn't be paying a tariff on it.

As for me, i think i'll pick one up. My area is quite hilly and with powerful mid drives, i dislike the weird Q factors and lack of regen.

What's your thoughts on it?
I'll let you be the beta tester and see what you think. :mrgreen:
 
Exciting. The motor weighs slightly more than a bbshd but is for sure more reliable
We don't know that yet. Although the axle was redesigned there were at least two other issues that needed addressing. Torque arm interface, and ts electrical interference if I recall. @amberwolf listed them in the blackbarrow thread if I remember correctly. Lots of promise but testing required.
 
Have bad news on my end.
I have to make a low 5 figure investment in computer hardware and my money is wiped out for the year.
I hereby resign as the first test hamster for this motor.

BTW the expected date for these is around march.
 
Boy do i wish i wasn't a test hamster on the first version, it was a $1000 hard lesson.
 
Exciting. The motor weighs slightly more than a bbshd but is for sure more reliable
My wife ran a BBSHD for many years and never had a single problem. Max45 with the axle problem on the first version only lasted maybe 300 miles. 90% of that run time was capped at 1000w or so and from using regen the axle to stator slop got so bad i had to quit running it. Hopefully over time the many problems will be sorted out and less people will end up with a very expensive paper weight.
 
Hmm, you missed the part where you ran 6kw-8kw on the original axle interface for the non-single speed version that was weak and has since been revised.

Your bike also had bad torque arm fitment due to it's frame shape. So, what you are saying may or may not apply to this motor since it should come with the upgraded axle, and probably fit most bikes just fine.

From thread: Salsa Blackborow with Grin Max45
 
Figured everyone here was aware of my thread and would have seen all of that. Biggest concern is when something does go wrong you are on your own to deal with it.

Update
So apparently someone is watching on here because i received an email from Grin today . Great news and just maybe i will get a new motor soon.

So redesigned axle and a Stainless TA now.
 

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