new eZip motor

Status
Not open for further replies.
http://www.greyborgusa.com/product/the-cromotor/
That

or http://www.ebay.com/itm/48V-96V-Brushless-Hub-Gearless-Motor-UP-TO-4000Watts/161411761949?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D36499%26meid%3D3f48c892ebc34da6a2b9e33676e092e8%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D151752955374

E-Green Motion.com ??

I went there and this motor doesn't seem to even exist. The specs give 3 different watts. 4,000 , 800 , 8,000.
I think it is an 800W motor. Am I wrong?

http://e-greenmotion.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=100_110&product_id=65&limit=100
That is the only motor listed at their site.

I am thinking the Cromotor. :twisted: Am I wrong?
 
latecurtis said:
http://www.greyborgusa.com/product/the-cromotor/
That

or http://www.ebay.com/itm/48V-96V-Brushless-Hub-Gearless-Motor-UP-TO-4000Watts/161411761949?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D36499%26meid%3D3f48c892ebc34da6a2b9e33676e092e8%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D151752955374

E-Green Motion.com ??

I went there and this motor doesn't seem to even exist. The specs give 3 different watts. 4,000 , 800 , 8,000.
I think it is an 800W motor. Am I wrong?

http://e-greenmotion.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=100_110&product_id=65&limit=100
That is the only motor listed at their site.

I am thinking the Cromotor. :twisted: Am I wrong?
Sorry LC, you are not ready for that kind of power. Not to mention the mechanical, electrical and just assembly skills needed.

If you bother to read anything on es about hub motors, it would help. You can put almost any voltage into all DD hub motors for a limited time and get different watts out of them. The bigger the motor the longer it will produce the higher wattage before overheating.
Unless you plan on ridding for a long distance or up the mountains, you can get away with a 1,500 watt motor for your "50" mph death trap. I don't care what stock BICYLE you get/buy, they won't last a mile at that speed.

As you look at GREEN MOTION, they list different voltages for the motors. By getting the higher voltage one it means they have a different WIND than the 36v version. I had a 24v GM hub motor that I setup for a friend at 60v. It dose about 38mph no problem. It doesn't go that fast very long as the battery slows down in a couple miles and it over heats.

We still think you need to test ride down a big hill with a SPEEDOMETER to learn how fast it feels. As I have said before 35 mph even on my most trusted and stable bike, IT'S too fast fo a bike. So if you still insist on doing 40+, you don't need a big motor for $600++ to do it for a short time. There many cheap kits for less than $200 that can do it. Buy a good controller that can take a higher voltage, buy the bigger capacity battery and your ready to commit suicide.

You talk better bike to go faster but you don't have the skills to put it all together! I'm sorry I said it the way I said it but I believe others will agree.

Dan
 
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LIPO Fire Burns. SLAs are too damm heavy! :!:



Sorry LC, you are not ready for that kind of power. Not to mention the mechanical, electrical and just assembly skills needed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mongoose-DXR-Full-Suspension-Mountain-Bike-18-Frame-Sram-21-Speed-/222058892467?hash=item33b3bdccb3:g:CvoAAOSwpIdW7aML
Doug said I need that type of bike for a high powered rear hub motor. Doug says I need steel to absorb the vibration. Carbon or Chromalloy will crack and too expensive.
I told him I need disk front and rear so I am looking at at least $100 more.

No I am not ready YET. However Doug has the mechanical skills and assembly skills and It should not be much different than the kit Sunder sent to hook up electrical wise. However I don't really have the money as I still have to move. The Landlady is giving me an extra month to find a place and I still need a truck.

Ok I am not going down a steep hill with bricks. You are right though as I never got a speedometer so I really don't know what 35 mph feels like. I need to get the 24" bike going with the 65T spoke kit from Kings custom sprockets.

The fastest I have been on a bike I believe is about 25 mph. That would be with the Schwinn with the hub motor Sunder sent and the 44V LIPO packs Dan sent before they slowed down. The Currie also did about 24 or 25 mph with the original 450W motor but at 36V and 675W. It also did about the same with the 48V 1,000W motor at 36V and 750W.

I have not seen the true potential of the 48V 1,000W unite motor. Being overgeared for 35 mph has slowed it down to around 25 mph I think. Once I get the right gearing it should do 30 mph. After that I can decide if that is enough or if I should build a 40 mph capable bike. I got the rack on the Diamondback yesterday. I am going to charge the SLAs and get them ready.

I really don't want to run them at 48V though for too long with a 850W hub motor even if it is geared for 16 mph.
If it is geared for 16 mph will it destroy the 10 AH SLAs or can I get by with it for awhile if I go about 10 mph and about half throttle except for hills.
Obviously if I run them with the 24" bike with the new 65T sprocket I will destroy the SLAs quick.

The solution is 44V 10.0 6s LIPO. The problem is I still dont have the first one I ordered and will need to order a second one.
That is the reason I was thinking about pulling the motor and 56T off the 24" bike and building the other 20" frame for 36V@20AH for 26 mph@750W. It will be 6 to 8 mph faster than the 533W 24V 20" bike I got now and wont struggle going up hills. I need 36V and 750W for hills as I weigh about 240 lbs.

The rack is on properly with the plastic inserts. The same rack on the back of the other 20" bike which was on the red bike would not fit and I threw out the plastic inserts and had to drill a hole thru the seat post after using gorilla tape to replace the inserts. I managed with a hammer and board to get the post in the inserts and do things the way it was intended. The rack and seat post are very tight so I wont need to drill any holes or add reinforcements for the rack.

Now I need to mount the SLAs and make it look good somehow. I also need more of these connectors so I can run and charge the SLAs with bullet connectors. I need to run at 48V and charge at 24V all four SLAs in parallel.
The Diamondback is 850W and should be great up hills if it is geared for 16 mph but how long can I expect 48V@10AH SLA to last? Please let me know.

I will still need to use supports for the rack. I may have to build some sort of battery box out of wood also. The SLAs are really heavy. I wish I had the two 10.0 LIPO packs. I really don't want to finish this build because it really is too much extra work. I don't really want heavy SLAs back there. It is totally ridiculous. No doubt I will take it easy on the SLAs until I get two 10.0 6s packs. By that time I should have the 65T spoke kit for the 48V 24" bike with the 1,000W Unite motor. Then I can run 44V Lipo on the Diamond back and put those heavy lead ass batteries out of their misery with repeated full throttle on the 24" bike.

I might keep the other two around for 24V backup for the 24V 533W motor but other than that I am getting rid of all the other SLAs including those three 12AH which are almost totally useless. If I build a 36V 20" bike I will order two 5S 8.0 LIPO packs. Thanks.

LC. out.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1567.JPG
    IMG_1567.JPG
    179.9 KB · Views: 1,934
  • IMG_1568.JPG
    IMG_1568.JPG
    151.1 KB · Views: 1,927
  • IMG_1569.JPG
    IMG_1569.JPG
    181.3 KB · Views: 1,908
  • IMG_1570.JPG
    IMG_1570.JPG
    139.5 KB · Views: 1,908
.
. . . . . . . . . . .
LiPo vs SLA

25A controller with 10Ah batteries = 2.5C

At 0.5C discharge: 10Ah LiPo (6lb) = ~20Ah SLA (50lb) = 100lb @ recommended discharge capacity
At 1.0C discharge: 10Ah LiPo (6lb) = ~30Ah SLA (75lb) = 150lb @ recommended discharge capacity
At 2.0C discharge: 10Ah LiPo (6lb) = ~40Ah SLA (100lb) = 200lb @ recommended discharge capacity
At 2.5C discharge: 10Ah LiPo (6lb) = ~44Ah SLA (110lb) = 220lb @ recommended discharge capacity
At 3.0C discharge: 10Ah LiPo (6lb) = ~50Ah SLA (125lb) = 250lb @ recommended discharge capacity
At 5.0C discharge: 10Ah LiPo (6lb) = ~70Ah SLA (175lb) = 350lb @ recommended discharge capacity

*200% additional SLA size to meet recommended 50% discharge = reasonable battery life!

LiCo vs SLA 01.jpg

Good news?
16mph level cruising requires less than 1C!
Might even be able to get 5Ah usable from new 10Ah SLA!
 
OK. I got to go all the way to Home Depot to get steel bars to reinforce the rack. They wont be as wide as the others and only one on each side. However will use thicker steel. I may need to drill a small hole somewhere in the frame. Also will need a can of black spray paint. A battery box made out of wood is also required to keep the SLA pack from sliding off the rack. Bungee cords will look like total shit. It is a lot of trouble to go thru so the SLAs better last awhile.

The 24" 48V build will have to wait until I get 44V of 10.0 LIPO. It needs a 65T spoke kit from Kings custom sprockets anyway. The 36V 20" build will have 5S LIPO and wont be done until after the 24" build later on this summer. It gives me plenty of time to find a 26" bike strong enough to handle the HubZilla motor for my fast bike which is last on my priority list but staying on the list until it is built and I am going 50 mph on an electric bicycle. :twisted: Thanks.

LC. out.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1573.JPG
    IMG_1573.JPG
    167.4 KB · Views: 1,885
Latecurtis said:
Doug says I need steel to absorb the vibration. Carbon or Chromalloy will crack and too expensive.
I told him I need disk front and rear so I am looking at at least $100 more.
Steel is the second choice to Chromoly in most builds here on ES when looking for bikes. Yes it can crack but not likely and it is much stronger weighs less.
In either case you will still need Torque arms if you plan on much over 2kw, in any case they are a good idea.

In most cases steel or Chromoly, it will be a hell of a lot easier to find steel bike over Chromoly. Especially in a full suspension bike.

Dan
 
I took material science technology in college and scored a B.
I don't remember much however. :lol: I do know though that steel will bend before failing. It makes sense then if your bike frame is compromised and it is steel it will start to steer different or rear frame failure will be noticed before a castophery.

I cant say the same for aluminum from what I studied but chromoly commonly referred to as dirty metal cant be welded and welding shops named it that. A steel frame totally makes sense. I believe the Currie frame is capable of handling a 3 to 5 kilowatt rear hub motor. It is truly a 50 mph capable bike.

However from what I have learned here on this forum I will need to change the front forks to disk brake compatible or spend the $160 and go for hydraulic up front and do the best we can do for the back.

For a six to eight or 10 kilowatt rear hub motor Sunders minimum requirements are absolute law. A downhill bike over $1,000 used or $2,000 new with hydraulic front and back. anything else would be suicide. 50 mph is fast but the structural stress wont increase by 10 or 20 % from 50 mph to 60 mph. It will be more like 60 or 70% greater stress if not more. From 50 to say 70 mph stress on the bicycle frame could increase by 200 or 300% and I would not be surprised.

In a typical racing environment such as drag racing the stress of say an 8 kilowatt motor compared to a 3 kilowatt motor would probably increase by a power of 10.
This is simply an educated guess. DA. how close am I on that guess?

A good point here however is how fast the Currie will go with a 3 kilowatt rear hub motor and remain in one piece depends on how much throttle is used upon take off. Can something really screw up with a 3 kilowatt DC motor at full throttle initially? No doubt. I can answer that.

The problem is I just don't want to go fast. I want to beat the snot out of two stroke dirt bikes and motorcycles. Four wheelers souped up also.
That's why Sunder is right when he stated what he recommended. His minimum requirements make sense under those extreme circumstances.

Under normal cruising slow easy throttle up to 50 mph on the smooth flat The Currie or Schwinn could easily accomplish that with the right hub motor.
Since the Currie don't have a motor on it right now I just figured out how I can build two fast bikes instead of two slow 20" bikes. :lol:

Not only is the original Currie rear wheel a flip flop hub but is meant for e bikes unlike a traditional regular bike flop hub. It is left threaded otherwise would not work. I think Doug told me that. If I get a 3 kilowatt hub motor for the Currie I can put the 26" Currie back wheel on the back of the 26" Schwinn and install a 48V 1,000W Unite motor on the back of that. Or I could just take the 48V Unite motor I have off the 24" bike with no brakes and put it on the back of the Schwinn with the Currie rear wheel. The huge 48V SLA pack I made and Dan's old LIPOs could work for at least a test drive. :D Just a thought.

Yea I measured and cut wrong and used a nut for the extra space for the home made terminal connectors. Since it is in the bottom that is good as if it rains the water will drain out of it. That will be a future LiPo compartment anyway. SLAs are temporary. We will see how they run on this for awhile but when painted the box will look good. A lid and lock is even possible with LiPo.

Glad I listened to you guys about the brakes as I almost got killed today on the 20" bike with the 533W motor. Good thing I did not have the Schwinn with the hub motor for two reasons. #1. I probably would have been going about 5 mph faster and been completely RAN OVER! Since I was doing my sidewalk thing due to heavy traffic I was doing about 5 mph or less and on the right side of the road but on the sidewalk and crossing a side road and this asshole flew around the corner cutting me off and I hit the brakes almost colliding with it. The pot was engaged but the brakes still slowed me down enough to avoid impact.

The second reason why it was a good thing I did not have the Schwinn was he did a half circle and came out on the road I was going straight on. He hit the side road to avoid the traffic light. If I had the Schwinn I would have caught up to him when he stopped to get back on the main road. He would not have a front windshield as My huge padlock and chain would have crashed thru it. I already caught up to one asshole with the Schwinn and the hub motor. That would have been the second and last time. I don't play that shit!. What if it was a couple of kids racing to get to Taco Bell or Rite aid with their parents behind them?

Are you kidding me! Anyone who operates a 2,000lb + vehicle needs to be aware of their surroundings. What happened was DEAD WRONG and I was actually sad I did I not really hurt somebody or that truck today. If it was a female driver I would only beat up the truck. If it were a dude though it could have been curtains for him. Looking for a truck anyway. We know a truck can do it but kind of fun to see if I could drag some asshole down the road with an e bike and a chain around his neck. :lol:

Afterwards I went to Home Depot and took a safer more well lit way home instead of the same route back in pitch dark where I wiped out with the Schwinn hitting the broken off section of the roads shoulder about a year ago I think. I took the long way home as Supertramp sings and went over 6 miles and the 16 AH pack was well above 3.7V. The new LiPo packs are doing well. I need to blow the dust off the packs Dan sent when I build the 24" 48V 1,000W bike to test it when I get the 65T spoke kit from Kings Custom Sprockets. :lol: Thanks.

LC. out.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1574.JPG
    IMG_1574.JPG
    158.3 KB · Views: 1,836
  • IMG_1575.JPG
    IMG_1575.JPG
    150.5 KB · Views: 1,836
  • IMG_1576.JPG
    IMG_1576.JPG
    131.5 KB · Views: 1,836
  • IMG_1577.JPG
    IMG_1577.JPG
    169.5 KB · Views: 1,836
  • IMG_1578.JPG
    IMG_1578.JPG
    151.8 KB · Views: 1,836
  • IMG_1579.JPG
    IMG_1579.JPG
    166.5 KB · Views: 1,836
  • IMG_1580.JPG
    IMG_1580.JPG
    168 KB · Views: 1,820
latecurtis said:
I took material science technology in college and scored a B.
I don't remember much however. :lol: I do know though that steel will bend before failing. It makes sense then if your bike frame is compromised and it is steel it will start to steer different or rear frame failure will be noticed before a castophery.

I cant say the same for aluminum from what I studied but chromoly commonly referred to as dirty metal cant be welded and welding shops named it that. A steel frame totally makes sense. I believe the Currie frame is capable of handling a 3 to 5 kilowatt rear hub motor. It is truly a 50 mph capable bike.
LC. out.
Your ignorance is atrocious!
Choosing to remain ignorant and regurgitating your ignorance is nearly criminal!

" . . . The OnlineMetals Guide to (chromoly) Alloy Steel

Chromoly is an abbreviation for "chromium-molybdenum steel". Chromoly is a range of low alloy steels used, for example, to produce tubing for bicycle frames and race-car roll cages. It is not as lightweight as aluminum alloys, but has the advantages of high tensile strength and malleability. It is also easily welded and is considerably stronger and more durable than standard (1020) steel tubing."

ignorance
: a lack of knowledge, understanding, or education : the state of being ignorant

Now ... "A lack of knowledge" is no crime, or sin, but when you purport yourself as some degree of authority and try to convince others of something that you have no reasonable knowledge or understanding of ... well, that, in my opinion, borders on the criminal.

Maybe that impresses your personal acquaintances ... you did say you are the smartest person you know ...
But makes you look like a blithering idiot to 95%+ of the ES membership.

Blithering
: The act of speaking foolishly and without purpose, often annoying others in the process. Talking at length for the sake of hearing one's own voice.

idiot
1 usually offensive : a person affected with extreme mental retardation
2 : a foolish or stupid person


My apologies to the clinically "idiot" ... I did not mean to offend.
 
Be aware!
Looks like 80%+ weight is on the back tire ...

file.php

Rear wheel drive would easily pop wheelies, but ...
Front wheel is liable to spin! ... and put you on the ground!

Lean forward as far as possible when accelerating, on iffy terrain and especially going up any hills.
 
DA, you are always so polite.
I was in the process when I went out, came back and you already explained about Chromoly.
I Was going to show my Chromoly black chainstay on my Mongoose that had an Aluminum one that snapped and how it was welded in my garage with a small MIG welder. Been 3 years now and it hasn't snapped yet, And I know it won't. :mrgreen:
chainstay.jpg

Dan
 
your torque arms are installed in the wrong direction, .Check the link I had sent you.

Thanks but everything is super tight. I dont see any sense in changing that. The wheel wont go anywhere the way it is now. Thanks though.


Chromoly is an abbreviation for "chromium-molybdenum steel". Chromoly is a range of low alloy steels used, for example, to produce tubing for bicycle frames and race-car roll cages. It is not as lightweight as aluminum alloys, but has the advantages of high tensile strength and malleability. It is also easily welded and is considerably stronger and more durable than standard (1020) steel tubing."


Ok that is all I really needed to know. I might be all of those things you accused me of but I know something that you guys don't know. :lol: :lol:

I know where there is a $800 to $1,000 full frame chromoly bike for $100.

I Also know where I can get a full size Ford van for $1300 tomorrow. That means I will be at the bank and dropping $700 in my account to order Hubzilla :twisted:

Looks like 80%+ weight is on the back tire ...

Rear wheel drive would easily pop wheelies, but ...
Front wheel is liable to spin! ... and put you on the ground!

Lean forward as far as possible when accelerating, on iffy terrain and especially going up any hills.

The hub motor is heavy. Also the red bike that had the Unite motor on the front had the rack with three SLAs in the back when I ran it at 36V and I had no problem. When I hit that pothole at 20 mph it was the same bike but the compromised forks. Wall-Mart makes a wire frame basket for the front. If I paint it black it wont look half bad and can put my chain and lock up there as well as a six pack to make weight even better. The hub motor is about as much weight as three of the SLAs at least.

I got to admit that was a good attempt to downplay my outstanding accomplishments but once again proved to be futile. The 20" 533W bike is nothing short of genius and I got people here in the hood pedaling to try to keep up with it just to ask me "how did you build it. " " look, that shit is dope." "look that's ellie" (whatever that means) " Hey could you build me one of those" The list goes on.

The only thing that separates me from most of you guys is I don't have a full frame chromoly 26' or larger mountain bike capable of 35 to 40 mph top speeds.
However the days where you can continue to look down on my accomplishments will soon come to an abrupt halt when I install HubZilla on my new full suspension chromoly $1,000 mountain bike and you all know in your hearts that you don't even have a prayer of keeping up with it. Thanks.
LC. out.
 
http://www.greyborgusa.com/product/the-cromotor/

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Perfection.

Much better job and only two small holes above the rear dropouts. It wont compromise the structural integrity at all of the frame.

It also looks 100% better than the other bike. I still have to mount the box and get some black spray primer and paint before I get it rolling.

Also punctured the back tire when drilling so that will set me back about $4. No big deal. I can still use the same tire as the hole is in the side.

Also I will soon be going 50 mph with Hubzilla awhile you guys are putting around at 35 or 40 mph. :lol:

I don't care if the bike dont have disk brakes after that shit I read. The brakes will be good enough. I will post pictures of the Doomsday Bike later tonight.

Thanks for posting and peace out. :twisted:
 
IMG_1585.JPGIMG_1581.JPGIMG_1582.JPGIMG_1583.JPG[attachment=1]IMG_1584.JPG
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1584.JPG
    IMG_1584.JPG
    176.9 KB · Views: 1,749
  • IMG_1585.JPG
    IMG_1585.JPG
    135.5 KB · Views: 1,749
latecurtis said:
http://www.greyborgusa.com/product/the-cromotor/

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Perfection.

Much better job and only two small holes above the rear dropouts. It wont compromise the structural integrity at all of the frame.

It also looks 100% better than the other bike. I still have to mount the box and get some black spray primer and paint before I get it rolling.

Also punctured the back tire when drilling so that will set me back about $4. No big deal. I can still use the same tire as the hole is in the side.

Also I will soon be going 50 mph with Hubzilla awhile you guys are putting around at 35 or 40 mph. :lol:

I don't care if the bike dont have disk brakes after that shit I read. The brakes will be good enough. I will post pictures of the Doomsday Bike later tonight.

Thanks for posting and peace out. :twisted:
I sure hope you looked at the pictures! All you need is any bike. Cut the rear off and add the rear of a small Harley or something like that. It is way too wide for any stock bike!

Oh well, it will make a nice paper weight :mrgreen:
Drunk again,

Dan
 
I did not order it and the ol lady don't want me to get the bike. She wont give me the money and all I have is $10.

I will take a picture and get information on it. You guys can let me know if it is the right bike for a 3 kilowatt motor. They must make a 3 kilowatt or a 2500W kit which will fit on most 26" mountain bikes.
 
You already have 2. How far do you plan on doing 35+? If only from the house to the hospital, all you need is a bigger controller and batteries. Almost all DD hub motors can handle 2500watts with little problem on the flats.

If you read more about hub motors you would learn a lot that can save you and your money.

Here is how to find what you want http://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html

Dan
 
http://www.kent.bike/12640/26-shogun-rock-mountain

Mountain Bikes. (Max weight of rider+luggage+bike = 320lbs/145kg). These bikes are intended for use off road on trails where tree-roots
and rocks are likely to be encountered. The use of a bike in hazardous conditions such as on changeable and uneven surfaces can put very
high unpredictable loads on the bike and it’s components. Lack of rider skill and experience of these conditions can further increase these
loads leading to the possibility of serious damage to the bike and injury to the rider. Wear a helmet at all times. Check your bike frequently
for loose or damaged parts and do required maintenance.


http://alienpowersystem.com/shop/brushless-hub-gearless-sensors-motors/alien-6kw-72v-700kv-brushless-hub-motor/

http://e-greenmotion.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=73_75&product_id=111

50 mph? 60 mph? :lol: :lol: :lol: :twisted:

Sunder I see your name. How much for that kit you were telling me about?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1591.JPG
    IMG_1591.JPG
    181.8 KB · Views: 1,921
Excellent job on the rear rack.

Thanks dude. That is the most positive thing I ever heard you say.

I love to work with wood. This wood smells good too.

It is a little crooked but not really noticeable. It will be black primed and painted tomorrow. Those of you who have been following me it is my first actual semi professional build. As soon as I get two 10.0 6s LiPo packs I can kill the SLAs with another 48V bike. Then I can put a lid with a lock on top. Why I am not worried about it being crooked for now as I got huge SLA pack sticking out the top. I will fix it then.


Front wheel is liable to spin! ... and put you on the ground!

Lean forward as far as possible when accelerating, on iffy terrain and especially going up any hills.

They sell a wire front basket at Wall-Mart I can paint it black and probably good enough to haul a six pack and my chain and padlock. I like you DA but have to disagree with you. That front motor is heavier than it looks. It is not as heavy as the one Sunder sent but heavier than a Unite motor. probably about 23 pounds on the front wheel. The weight distribution should be great.

Kid was here earlier to do the brakes. Had to go pick up the new bike.

He brought me a new tube I am putting in after this post.

. The OnlineMetals Guide to (chromoly) Alloy Steel

Chromoly is an abbreviation for "chromium-molybdenum steel". Chromoly is a range of low alloy steels used, for example, to produce tubing for bicycle frames and race-car roll cages. It is not as lightweight as aluminum alloys, but has the advantages of high tensile strength and malleability. It is also easily welded and is considerably stronger and more durable than standard (1020) steel tubing."


Thanks DA for that piece of information. Unfortunately I did not even know the word Chromoly until I met Doug. Carbon treated and carbon fiber I remember from college. I did a report on carbon fiber nanotubes. It does not make me less smarter than anyone else. I got a B on the report but was 10 years ago at least. Also you copied my expression as I was the first to come up with blithering idiot.

The new bike may not be dirty metal which is what many welders reefer to it and I am not disagreeing with you as it being superior in strength than steel and glad you enlightened me on the subject. I was simply misinformed. If I did learn it then I forgot.

I wish the SHOGUN was chromoly but the bike is steel and brand new and rated for 320 lbs. It is also off road rated and by no means a kids bike and it would be safe to say 40 to 43 mph top speed on level flat land but no more than that. I figure about 2,000 to 2,500W maximum. I can live with <45 mph gearing. Thanks.

LC. out.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1592.JPG
    IMG_1592.JPG
    157.5 KB · Views: 1,903
  • IMG_1593.JPG
    IMG_1593.JPG
    141.9 KB · Views: 1,903
  • IMG_1596.JPG
    IMG_1596.JPG
    139.9 KB · Views: 1,903
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top