ronnieb52
100 W
wonder what wood he will use to mount this motor ?
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new eZip motor
- Thread starter latecurtis
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latecurtis
100 MW
Yea. I was wondering that myself just before I read your post. :lol:
I just got done taking it out of the box.
I wonder how fast it will go if I hook it up to six 10Ah SLAs in series for 72V@10Ah.
Any chance of the SlAs exploding creating an acid shower. ? :lol:
How about hooking up three of those 5.0 -6S Lipo packs Dan sent in series or even all four. Would they blow up. ? :lol:
Not sure of the output either but I will go with.
25 horsepower * 750W = 20,250W
45 horsepower * 750W = 33,750W
I do not know the minimum or maximum voltage or the rpm either.
I was talking to Doug and he said the Haro V3 is aluminum and it would not be the best idea to mount such a motor to it.
Hmmmmm.
The pontiac grand am outside needs a master cylinder. Any chance I could pull the gas motor out and hook it up to that. ?
Yea. I may need a little help with this one with anything I hook it up to. Maybe a small motorcycle with a blown gas motor. Not sure.
I even screwed up making those parallel cables for Dan's old packs. I went to hook them up yesterday and realize I couldn't because they were reverse polarity. I thought for sure when I soldered them that I got it right. Instead of cutting them and changing the plugs I have decided to wait and order more bullets tomorrow solder a second parallel cable exactly like the one I screwed up on then make a third parallel cable and make it the right way then hook up all four packs for a single 20Ah 6S pack and run them like that all the time.
Also I am probably selling my Pontiac grand am for $400 and Mary my wife is getting an extra $250 or so in her SSA check so the 2005 Dodge Caravan will in fact be on the road soon.
The best idea for this motor is to find a small 125 cc dirt bike with a blown motor and remove all the gas parts and break out a welder. I was wondering if DA knows how to weld and would be interested in helping me with building this if I go with a dirt bike frame instead of a bicycle frame. I will still be able to beat the four wheedlers on the fourth of July.
I am hoping to hear from everyone for ideas on this motor. Please post when you can.
LC out.
Sunder
10 MW
latecurtis said:
Looks like LFP packed a bit of common sense with that motor.
Do any of your mates weld? Or are there cheap metalworking places near you?
Depending on what you actually need, you might also be able to get some custom one piece CNCed or laser cut brackets, and high tensile bolts to hold it to the frame instead. Windows 10 comes built in with free 3D drawing programs, which can definitely be used for 3D printing. I'm no expert, but I can't imagine that there hasn't been someone with a converter out there for doing CNC instead.
This should be a fun project for you. A worthy challenge with an actual worthy outcome. Not just hard for the sake of it.
DrkAngel
1 GW
Better be saving your pennies!
Decent compatible Sevcon controller cost, about $1000.
Whimpass version is only about $600 though.
Performance version is $1400 - $1800
Don' forget batteries!
Might be another thousand or two ...
depends on how many seconds or minutes you wanna run ...
and how many cycles you want them to last.
Decent compatible Sevcon controller cost, about $1000.
Whimpass version is only about $600 though.
Performance version is $1400 - $1800
Don' forget batteries!
Might be another thousand or two ...
depends on how many seconds or minutes you wanna run ...
and how many cycles you want them to last.
DAND214
10 MW
Dream on LC. Now you have the MOTOR, all you need is a BIKE that will handle it. Oh and the small things DA listed.
Dan
Dan
Sunder
10 MW
Having slept on it, I'm now tempted to buy a road bike like an R6 or R1, or one of the Fireblades. Probably just a pipe dream at the moment, but might set up a search on ebay for a "for parts only" motorcycle.
Anyone know of a hub motor that is built directly into a solid alloy rim? Would be targeting at least 30kw.
Anyone know of a hub motor that is built directly into a solid alloy rim? Would be targeting at least 30kw.
DrkAngel
1 GW
Good enough?DrkAngel said:13.3HP continuous
40 HP surge!!!
DrkAngel
1 GW
Here ya go ...
latecurtis
100 MW
OK I just checked liveforphysics PM and he said he mailed out two boxes and mentioned a Sevcom 4 and think that is a controller however I only got the motor so there should be another box comming.
Also I have decided to try and build a bike as close to the original death bike as possible. I do believe it to be a small motorcycle front end with the dual disk brakes so I
think I should start there and find a motorcycle with a similar front end that has a blown motor and then go from there and find the framework for the rest of the bike.
By the time I gather all the parts needed hopefully I will have the welding equipment. Then if I can get my brother in law Mark the welder to come over and do the job or I bring the welding equipment and parts to him with my van to do the job.
That is my master plan. To build a bike as close to the original death bike as possible. It makes the most sense as the death bike is test proven to work and I should leave the experimenting to bikes with 20 or 30 mph Unite motors not 30,000 + killowatt motors as I don't need something breaking when accelerating from 0 to 60 mph in less than 5 seconds as it could turn into a fatality. I will need to study and research the death bike carefully. Thanks.
LC out.
Also I have decided to try and build a bike as close to the original death bike as possible. I do believe it to be a small motorcycle front end with the dual disk brakes so I
think I should start there and find a motorcycle with a similar front end that has a blown motor and then go from there and find the framework for the rest of the bike.
By the time I gather all the parts needed hopefully I will have the welding equipment. Then if I can get my brother in law Mark the welder to come over and do the job or I bring the welding equipment and parts to him with my van to do the job.
That is my master plan. To build a bike as close to the original death bike as possible. It makes the most sense as the death bike is test proven to work and I should leave the experimenting to bikes with 20 or 30 mph Unite motors not 30,000 + killowatt motors as I don't need something breaking when accelerating from 0 to 60 mph in less than 5 seconds as it could turn into a fatality. I will need to study and research the death bike carefully. Thanks.
LC out.
Sunder
10 MW
DrkAngel said:
Looks good. Now just need a donor frame. It's a pity the early, cheap Zeros were brushed motors, and the newer ones are still too expensive. I could start with a project half finished if I could go with one of those.
latecurtis said:
My old learner legal 250cc bike could do 0-60mph in around 4.8s (I could never personally get it that quick, but I wasn't a pro motorcycle rider). If it's only a 5 second bike, the only reason it'd be called a death bike, would be the way you assembled it. Aim for sub 3 second... That's what most 1000cc bikes will do.
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. East coast death bike. 
I know I will need a little help here.
the controller is here.
I don't want to hook up something wrong.
I am scared of electricity.
DA and Dan. You guys are close enough to drive to if I get my van running.
Only time I saw wires that big was an electric fork truck.
If you guys help me build it then why not have you guys ride and maybe race it if you want to.
It would be impossible for me to build a bike as good as the three of us anyway. three minds are better than one.
I think I did a post awhile back about a east coast death bike. It was only in my mind then. Now I have part of it here. I just have to get the rest going.
Mabye we all just take it to a race track once a year the three of us. I will transport with my van. The first time we could take to track for trial run and take turns riding it then draw straws for race day. :lol: Actually the lightest guy would have the advantage. Either that or it goes like that Metallica song "short a straw that's been pulled for you"
0 to 60 in 3 seconds could be risky with a bad heart valve.
Oh and I was just thinking this motor will be rear driven so why not get that motor you just posted DA for the front wheel and run both motors when we all save up some money in a couple of years. How fast would that go.
I am looking into the possibility.
Wood would be used with carraige bolts and extra large washers and possible steel brackets attached to the wood thru heavy duty bolts and washers.
Two pieces of 3/4 ply cut like that each side pressure treated and lots of large bolts washers and steel brackets to reinforce.
Bike is 29" mountain probably aluminum. suicide bike though not a death bike if I go that route.
I already did the measurements and it will fit. Not much room to spare though.
If you click on the bottom two pictures they get bigger.
the very bottom pic. shows two pieces of 3/4" ply on one side and two extra thick steel brackets on the other with thick bolts or threaded rod connecting.
A good jigsaw should cut the hole perfect for an extra snug fit and extra bolts could be placed on each side.
The red is the belt drive wheel on the motor which should line up perfect.
I can also construct a piece of wood with my jigsaw to bolt to the wood on opposite side to cover and protect the belt apparatus from my legs or objects.
I am that damm good with wood.
The thing to do though would be finish the dual motor 20" bike I am working on now.
Then concentrate on the 45 HP 33 + killowatt build
Please post when you can.
LC out
I know I will need a little help here.
the controller is here.
I don't want to hook up something wrong.
I am scared of electricity.
DA and Dan. You guys are close enough to drive to if I get my van running.
Only time I saw wires that big was an electric fork truck.
If you guys help me build it then why not have you guys ride and maybe race it if you want to.
It would be impossible for me to build a bike as good as the three of us anyway. three minds are better than one.
I think I did a post awhile back about a east coast death bike. It was only in my mind then. Now I have part of it here. I just have to get the rest going.
Mabye we all just take it to a race track once a year the three of us. I will transport with my van. The first time we could take to track for trial run and take turns riding it then draw straws for race day. :lol: Actually the lightest guy would have the advantage. Either that or it goes like that Metallica song "short a straw that's been pulled for you"
0 to 60 in 3 seconds could be risky with a bad heart valve.
Oh and I was just thinking this motor will be rear driven so why not get that motor you just posted DA for the front wheel and run both motors when we all save up some money in a couple of years. How fast would that go.
I am looking into the possibility.
Wood would be used with carraige bolts and extra large washers and possible steel brackets attached to the wood thru heavy duty bolts and washers.
Two pieces of 3/4 ply cut like that each side pressure treated and lots of large bolts washers and steel brackets to reinforce.
Bike is 29" mountain probably aluminum. suicide bike though not a death bike if I go that route.
I already did the measurements and it will fit. Not much room to spare though.
If you click on the bottom two pictures they get bigger.
the very bottom pic. shows two pieces of 3/4" ply on one side and two extra thick steel brackets on the other with thick bolts or threaded rod connecting.
A good jigsaw should cut the hole perfect for an extra snug fit and extra bolts could be placed on each side.
The red is the belt drive wheel on the motor which should line up perfect.
I can also construct a piece of wood with my jigsaw to bolt to the wood on opposite side to cover and protect the belt apparatus from my legs or objects.
I am that damm good with wood.
The thing to do though would be finish the dual motor 20" bike I am working on now.
Then concentrate on the 45 HP 33 + killowatt build
Please post when you can.
LC out
Attachments
DrkAngel
1 GW
LC ...
You really don't seem to understand the type of torque-power you are dealing with.
Plywood and strap brackets and (especially aluminum) bicycle frames will be just like tissue paper to that motor!
They will crumple up under power leaving jagged metal spinning with great speed and force between your legs
A 1hp circular saw can take off your hand in a few seconds.
Imagine bouncing down the road with a 50hp saw with blade of jagged bicycle frame parts or metal brackets ...
or even a 3' long 10lb chain spinning at 3000 rpm, ripping through metal and flesh and bone?
and
For about the 5th time "I am not interested in racing, at all, not even a little bit!"
I am interested in "performance" ... as in matching build to it's designed purpose.
(I hate the term "need" due to it's misuse 95% of the time, most notably from female teenagers!)
You really don't seem to understand the type of torque-power you are dealing with.
Plywood and strap brackets and (especially aluminum) bicycle frames will be just like tissue paper to that motor!
They will crumple up under power leaving jagged metal spinning with great speed and force between your legs
A 1hp circular saw can take off your hand in a few seconds.
Imagine bouncing down the road with a 50hp saw with blade of jagged bicycle frame parts or metal brackets ...
or even a 3' long 10lb chain spinning at 3000 rpm, ripping through metal and flesh and bone?
and
For about the 5th time "I am not interested in racing, at all, not even a little bit!"
I am interested in "performance" ... as in matching build to it's designed purpose.
- For example:
- Cheap safe basic reliable transportation at legal speed.
- $160 rear hub 1000w kit (7spd capable) with controller switch to 750w 20mph legal.
- Simple $100 eTrike kit 10mph limit with good torque for hills and cargo "box" for groceries, laundry, light cargo etc. Simple, stable, safe transport for anyone not consumed by a need for speed.
- An eMotorcycle conversion designed 1st as basic local economical transport 40mph capable for in city speeds. Eventually regeared or revolted for 70mph expressway capability.
- $200 20" FatBike 7spd crank drive 350w kit. For off road "kiddie fun".
- Builds to fill a specific "need" or purpose rather than some brief flirtation with speed.
(I hate the term "need" due to it's misuse 95% of the time, most notably from female teenagers!)
DAND214
10 MW
Well LC, all you ned is a battery. I mean a battery, not what I sent or anything you have will be enough to do anything but slow stuff.
Wood? You gotta be kidding. Try putting a piece of 3/4 ply between any engine and see how long it lasts. It won't. Get a good frame and get some metal plates made to mount that motor.
You don't like electricity? You are in for a real charge!!! It won't do much if anything on 24 volts.
Dan
Wood? You gotta be kidding. Try putting a piece of 3/4 ply between any engine and see how long it lasts. It won't. Get a good frame and get some metal plates made to mount that motor.
You don't like electricity? You are in for a real charge!!! It won't do much if anything on 24 volts.
Dan
DrkAngel
1 GW
Minimum, you will need 48V 200Ah of SLA ...
About 80 of your 10Ah favorites, ... about 800lb?
LiPo need will vary.
Max power for 2 minutes
48V >20Ah 30C LiPo
Discharging at max rated will result in rapid deterioration! = kill batteries fast!
About 80 of your 10Ah favorites, ... about 800lb?
LiPo need will vary.
Max power for 2 minutes
48V >20Ah 30C LiPo
Discharging at max rated will result in rapid deterioration! = kill batteries fast!
Sunder
10 MW
Yup, listen to these guys - Look up "1 horse power flywheel log splitter", and watch some of the videos. These things can smash a 12" thick piece of hardwood without even slowing down the splitter head.
Okay, sure, you're not attaching a sharp axe head to your motor. But imagine what happens if your chain gets jammed. If you're lucky, the chain snaps and removes a limb. If you're unluck, the mount snaps, and the motor effectively becomes one of these:
My dad, in the last few years, seems to have developed a scant regard for his safety. I'm wondering if it's natural, when faced with your own mortality, to start disregarding what's left... You know, if you're 20, and you have 70 years ahead of you, you value your life alot. When you're 75, with 15 years ahead of it, it's not worth that much.
Do this right - you said you wanted a challenge - it's harder to do it properly than to jerry rig something dangerous.
Okay, sure, you're not attaching a sharp axe head to your motor. But imagine what happens if your chain gets jammed. If you're lucky, the chain snaps and removes a limb. If you're unluck, the mount snaps, and the motor effectively becomes one of these:
My dad, in the last few years, seems to have developed a scant regard for his safety. I'm wondering if it's natural, when faced with your own mortality, to start disregarding what's left... You know, if you're 20, and you have 70 years ahead of you, you value your life alot. When you're 75, with 15 years ahead of it, it's not worth that much.
Do this right - you said you wanted a challenge - it's harder to do it properly than to jerry rig something dangerous.
DrkAngel
1 GW
A 3' chunk of chain spinning @ 5000rpm.
3' x 3.14 = 9.42'
9.42' x 5000rpm = 47,100 feet per minute
47,100 x 60min = 2,826,000 feet per hour
2,826,000 feet per hour / 5280' = 535mph
= ouch
3' x 3.14 = 9.42'
9.42' x 5000rpm = 47,100 feet per minute
47,100 x 60min = 2,826,000 feet per hour
2,826,000 feet per hour / 5280' = 535mph
= ouch
latecurtis
100 MW
no chain
The motor is belt drive.
I have little clue where I am ordering the belt from and how I would set the wheel up for it but if you look at
what is on the motor it is not set up for a chain and not getting set up for one either.
Also wood is used to build houses.
3/4" ply doubled up to 1- 1/2 inch ply I could build a stand for a circus which would hold up an elephant.
large heavy duty washers would be used.
The steel bars in that diagram would be larger than 1/3" thick steel bar cut and holes drilled with diamond drill bit.
I was thinking about a 2 kilowatt brushless controller to start so I could test it with the LiPo I have now.
Also I would fabricate a shield around the belt so that if it snapped it could not hurt me.
you would be surprised what can be done with a jigsaw.
Another thing is when I do use the controller that was sent for full power I may need a device which goes between the controller and throttle so it don't flip upon take off.
The front wheel must remain on the ground. If no such thing exists then a front hub motor and separate throttle from 0 to 25 mph then ease into the other throttle for 25 mph to 50 + mph.
I would NOT be using the current front forks but replacing with high end $200 or $300 forks for the front with disk brakes.
The goose neck which the new forks fit into is my main concern using that bike if made out of aluminum and no way to reinforce. Not the things that were mentioned.
These are just ideas I am throwing around. I still need to finish the bike I am working on and figure out what I am hooking up to the Haro V3.
I will require some time and planning when taking on a project of that magnitude ; building a deathbike. Thanks.
LC. out.
The motor is belt drive.
I have little clue where I am ordering the belt from and how I would set the wheel up for it but if you look at
what is on the motor it is not set up for a chain and not getting set up for one either.
Also wood is used to build houses.
3/4" ply doubled up to 1- 1/2 inch ply I could build a stand for a circus which would hold up an elephant.
large heavy duty washers would be used.
The steel bars in that diagram would be larger than 1/3" thick steel bar cut and holes drilled with diamond drill bit.
I was thinking about a 2 kilowatt brushless controller to start so I could test it with the LiPo I have now.
Also I would fabricate a shield around the belt so that if it snapped it could not hurt me.
you would be surprised what can be done with a jigsaw.
Another thing is when I do use the controller that was sent for full power I may need a device which goes between the controller and throttle so it don't flip upon take off.
The front wheel must remain on the ground. If no such thing exists then a front hub motor and separate throttle from 0 to 25 mph then ease into the other throttle for 25 mph to 50 + mph.
I would NOT be using the current front forks but replacing with high end $200 or $300 forks for the front with disk brakes.
The goose neck which the new forks fit into is my main concern using that bike if made out of aluminum and no way to reinforce. Not the things that were mentioned.
These are just ideas I am throwing around. I still need to finish the bike I am working on and figure out what I am hooking up to the Haro V3.
I will require some time and planning when taking on a project of that magnitude ; building a deathbike. Thanks.
LC. out.
DrkAngel
1 GW
¿Just learn how to use a throttle?Latecurtis said:
Turn a little = little power, turn further = more power etc.
Sunder
10 MW
Houses don't have 30kw motors bolted to them. Name one car - hell, any device with a 30kw motor, that has wooden mounts.
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Tom Bradey for president 2024.
Basically I watched about mabye ten minutes of football during the season this year and realized after watching about 5 minutes in the first half that I was a jinx so I went to NFL.com about five minutes before they won and saw they had the ball. I heard a yahoo from downstairs and low and behold we got five Lombardi trophy's now.
I wish I was that enthusiastic regarding windows paint. I absolutely DETEST it
I also have no use for any of that adobe crap. The only program I could ever use no longer exists and I used it for many years on windows xp , vista and 7
MGI Photosuite. It no longer exists but is on an old HP in my bedroom and I got a copy but cant find the original It only works on 32 bit OS.
I did the best I could trying to explain how this can be done with wood but transferring these blueprints from inside my head to this screen with windows paint. well it totally sucks.
Basically the motor has holes for bolts on both sides so it will take 8 bolts total to mount it and you cant run them thru from front to back of motor like unite motor.
Therefore the back of the motor will need to be flush with the plywood. The first two panels will be about the same or 3/4" but not sure of the third as it needs to be flush. The motor slides snugly inside all three panels and the backside will get 3/8" pieces of steel and the correct size bolts for the motor which go thru all three panels and then two extra large washers between the wood and the nuts. I took material science technology. The plywood must be pressure treated and of superior grade. Not cheap pine or anything which would crack.
the other side where the wheel is for the belt there will be no wood but 1/2" steel bars which will be most difficult to drill thru but the yellow holes will go thru at least two of the plywood panels and maybe all three and will also have two extra large washers so They can be torqued down with serious force. The tensile strength of the bolts it is what will make this so strong not the wood. The wood is only a brace for the motor and the 1/2" steel brackets.
Due to the fact that the bike may be aluminum there will be no drilling thru the frame.
on the wood side the hole on the bottom right which is yellow will NOT be that close to the edge. I just cant do a good job on blueprints with paint.
With MGI photosuite I can replace any guy in any porno with a girl with a picture of me and edit it frame by frame and come up with a 20 minute video in less than an hour so you have to realize how frustrating it is to even attempt something like this with garbage software.
The fact is wood will work but will need 1/2" thick steel brackets about 1-1/2" wide to do the trick as well as thick steel threaded rod and carriage bolts.
I don't have a magnet so do not know if the bike is steel or aluminum. I know that those aftermarket supports I posted awhile back for hub motors will work for making the back stronger than the factory dropouts.
As I said before the only thing I worry about is the goose neck if it is aluminum. High quality front forks or shocks are attainable for a price.I got all the other bases covered except for the wheel in the back. The correct size apparatus for the belt drive needs to be bolted to where the disk brake goes and then tig welded for reinforcement. That is where this gets tricky
I am NOT going to remove the belt apparatus on the motor for some sprocket for a chain as no such thing probably exists. Thanks. Please post when you can.
If you click on picture it gets bigger.
Side view is better and there are four heavy duty threaded rods and bolts but only two shown in illustration. LC. out.
Basically I watched about mabye ten minutes of football during the season this year and realized after watching about 5 minutes in the first half that I was a jinx so I went to NFL.com about five minutes before they won and saw they had the ball. I heard a yahoo from downstairs and low and behold we got five Lombardi trophy's now.
I wish I was that enthusiastic regarding windows paint. I absolutely DETEST it
I also have no use for any of that adobe crap. The only program I could ever use no longer exists and I used it for many years on windows xp , vista and 7
MGI Photosuite. It no longer exists but is on an old HP in my bedroom and I got a copy but cant find the original
It only works on 32 bit OS.I did the best I could trying to explain how this can be done with wood but transferring these blueprints from inside my head to this screen with windows paint. well it totally sucks.
Basically the motor has holes for bolts on both sides so it will take 8 bolts total to mount it and you cant run them thru from front to back of motor like unite motor.
Therefore the back of the motor will need to be flush with the plywood. The first two panels will be about the same or 3/4" but not sure of the third as it needs to be flush. The motor slides snugly inside all three panels and the backside will get 3/8" pieces of steel and the correct size bolts for the motor which go thru all three panels and then two extra large washers between the wood and the nuts. I took material science technology. The plywood must be pressure treated and of superior grade. Not cheap pine or anything which would crack.
the other side where the wheel is for the belt there will be no wood but 1/2" steel bars which will be most difficult to drill thru but the yellow holes will go thru at least two of the plywood panels and maybe all three and will also have two extra large washers so They can be torqued down with serious force. The tensile strength of the bolts it is what will make this so strong not the wood. The wood is only a brace for the motor and the 1/2" steel brackets.
Due to the fact that the bike may be aluminum there will be no drilling thru the frame.
on the wood side the hole on the bottom right which is yellow will NOT be that close to the edge. I just cant do a good job on blueprints with paint.
With MGI photosuite I can replace any guy in any porno with a girl with a picture of me and edit it frame by frame and come up with a 20 minute video in less than an hour so you have to realize how frustrating it is to even attempt something like this with garbage software.
The fact is wood will work but will need 1/2" thick steel brackets about 1-1/2" wide to do the trick as well as thick steel threaded rod and carriage bolts.
I don't have a magnet so do not know if the bike is steel or aluminum. I know that those aftermarket supports I posted awhile back for hub motors will work for making the back stronger than the factory dropouts.
As I said before the only thing I worry about is the goose neck if it is aluminum. High quality front forks or shocks are attainable for a price.I got all the other bases covered except for the wheel in the back. The correct size apparatus for the belt drive needs to be bolted to where the disk brake goes and then tig welded for reinforcement. That is where this gets tricky
I am NOT going to remove the belt apparatus on the motor for some sprocket for a chain as no such thing probably exists. Thanks. Please post when you can.
If you click on picture it gets bigger.
Side view is better and there are four heavy duty threaded rods and bolts but only two shown in illustration. LC. out.
Gregory
100 kW
I'd be looking at at extending a frame longer to make it less prone to wheelies. Then using that extra space to mount the motor and batteries nice and low. Keeps weight low, keeps the belt away from your balls. Weight up high in the triangle seems like a problem.
You should have already have read the Sevcon Gen 4 manual. It will be fully programmable.
You should have already have read the Sevcon Gen 4 manual. It will be fully programmable.
latecurtis
100 MW
Yes. I will definitely look into extending the frame.
Also I will look into a manual as I did not get one but sure I can download one.
Like I said I like throwing ideas around and people underestimate what can be done with wood.
I am not saying I WILL mount the motor this way.
I am simply proving that it is a possibility.
Thanks for posting.
LC out
Also I will look into a manual as I did not get one but sure I can download one.
Like I said I like throwing ideas around and people underestimate what can be done with wood.
I am not saying I WILL mount the motor this way.
I am simply proving that it is a possibility.
Thanks for posting.
LC out
DrkAngel
1 GW
Bolting 1/2 inch thick steel brackets to 1/16 inch steel tubing might not hold up as well as you think!
3/8 inch holes for bolts might cut already wimpy frame strength in half?
Better than to aluminum frame though
3/8 inch holes for bolts might cut already wimpy frame strength in half?
Better than to aluminum frame though
latecurtis
100 MW
If you look close at the illustrations there are no holes going thru the bike frame.
Yes the tensile strength of the threaded rod all four could indeed collapse the tube frame. i am glad you brought it up.
Drilling a small hole to pour concrete into the frame unlikely as too wet mixture crete 4 small hole.
However small hole supports fiberglass resin to fill tube for extra bolt tensile strength without collapse of tube frame.
However method may not fix the only REAL problem I can't fix.
Sorry to say I do not have a magnet at this time as if I did I would know if the goose-neck is steel or aluminum.
I am concerned it will not hold up to the extra heavy duty forks I will be getting for disk brakes. It would be the weak link if it is not steel
Like I said it is an idea. To be honest it could take some time to build this and do it right.
A downhill bike obviously would be a better choice or extending the frame like was mentioned earlier which will require welding equipment I may not have until summer time.
I Will be finishing the current 20" build and would like to hook up the Haro V3 for 35 to 40 mph between now and then as I love my Haro and have been waiting years to get a bike like that.
The FX motor will be an off road bike only and will need to take it to the track or out in the deep woods where my brothers race their four wheelers. It is too fast for the street here in the City and worth way too much $$$ just to have a cop impound it as it will be so very illeagel.
I may wait and bide my time as the hub motor DA posted would work very well on the front making that 1320 shuffle happen even faster combined for 80 kilowatts total.
40 kilowatts per wheel. Go big or stay home as they say in spades .
However I would like to have something going with the FX - 75 5 motor by the end of the summer. That is why I am looking at the 29" bike as an option in case I do not get the welding equipment and or better bike frame to build a death bike. Thanks.
LC out.
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latecurtis
100 MW
http://prntscr.com/e5f3z6
I am researching the different types of metal.
Titanium is the best but I have not seen a frame less than $2,000
I want a frame strong enough to handel a total of 80 killowatts peak power.
I have a car and a van so am selling one for $500
Also I should be picking up other money and the ol lady is getting more money in her SSA check this year.
I need to figure out where to order the belt for the motor and wheel apparatus for the belt and want to put that hub motor DA listed on the front so I will have 40 kilowatts in the front peak power and the FX motor in the rear belt driven for 33 kilowatt continuous and 80 kilowatts total peak power between the two motors.
Oh and there is one more thing. That bike that drives itself. Check out the video below. I think it is self balancing and can go without a rider. I need that technology when I build it as that way the bike can race itself and should make it from 0 to 60 in less than 2 seconds and the quarter mile in about 9 seconds or less. Thanks.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LSZPNwZex9s
This technology is really wicked. Someday soon I bet someone will figure out haw to do a bank job with one or these things by remote control like 10 miles away. :lol: :lol:
Mabye if I build this 80 killowatt thing we could make a sequel to the movie A place beyond the pines. beyond the pines 2. :lol:
That movie was filmed right here in Schenectady NY. I lived directly across the road where they did most of the filming in this old warehouse building that used to be the Agway bargin outlet hardware store.
http://prntscr.com/e5fc5v
thanks.
LC out.
I am researching the different types of metal.
Titanium is the best but I have not seen a frame less than $2,000
I want a frame strong enough to handel a total of 80 killowatts peak power.
I have a car and a van so am selling one for $500
Also I should be picking up other money and the ol lady is getting more money in her SSA check this year.
I need to figure out where to order the belt for the motor and wheel apparatus for the belt and want to put that hub motor DA listed on the front so I will have 40 kilowatts in the front peak power and the FX motor in the rear belt driven for 33 kilowatt continuous and 80 kilowatts total peak power between the two motors.
Oh and there is one more thing. That bike that drives itself. Check out the video below. I think it is self balancing and can go without a rider. I need that technology when I build it as that way the bike can race itself and should make it from 0 to 60 in less than 2 seconds and the quarter mile in about 9 seconds or less. Thanks.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LSZPNwZex9s
This technology is really wicked. Someday soon I bet someone will figure out haw to do a bank job with one or these things by remote control like 10 miles away. :lol: :lol:
Mabye if I build this 80 killowatt thing we could make a sequel to the movie A place beyond the pines. beyond the pines 2. :lol:
That movie was filmed right here in Schenectady NY. I lived directly across the road where they did most of the filming in this old warehouse building that used to be the Agway bargin outlet hardware store.
http://prntscr.com/e5fc5v
thanks.
LC out.
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