New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"
- Thread starter larsottar
- Start date
How do i get into the menu with this lcd screen? https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fi.postimg.cc%2FHxN51wCs%2FCaptura-de-ecr-de-2018-11-01-11-09-03.png&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.endless-sphere.com%2Fforums%2Fviewtopic.php%3Ff%3D28%26t%3D79788%26start%3D3750&docid=0I6KbEvnqJK4lM&tbnid=nEGtO3b0h7XBOM%3A&vet=10ahUKEwivqunK-oDgAhXHWisKHXfGCe8QMwhvKDswOw..i&w=391&h=598&bih=664&biw=1024&q=TSDZ2%20Torque%20Sensor%20Central%20Motor%22%20lcd%20settings%20how%20do%20i%20get%20the%20menu&ved=0ahUKEwivqunK-oDgAhXHWisKHXfGCe8QMwhvKDswOw&iact=mrc&uact=8
Is there a manual for it?
Is there a manual for it?
casainho said:
Here is an example of the TDSZ2 being sold with the Bafang display.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Tongsheng-TSDZ2-DIY-Conversion-ebike-Kit-Mid-Drive-Motor-Torque-Sensor-36V-350W-VLCD5-Display-High/32822006426.html
Is the TSDZ2 being sold with the Bafang display by anyone besides eunorau?
MaartenL
10 mW
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2018
- Messages
- 33
So my 120mm Fatbike Axel just broke for the 2nd time after 1250km of riding in total.
I bought this axel from Future-Bike (like the 1st one) and I'm wondering how it is possible it breaks... This time while standing on the peddle while cruising my city, nothing too fancy. Any suggestions or better options to replace?
I could move the Axel left to right because the 'locking ring' was maybe broken or missing. Could this be the reason it brakes so easy?
ashrambo said:
Okay, I tried tightening the 5 bolts closest to the drive-side crank that hold the spider to the main drive gear. I gave them 5nm, didn't want to give more for fear of stripping. The spider was still loose.
I then removed the main drive gear and noticed that I lack the brass spacers behind the sprag clutch (described here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-SY0rGMEMo). The author appears to have an older version of the motor, as my main drive gears are helical. Did they remove the spacers in newer motors? Otherwise, perhaps the fit of the clutch on the axle is bad from the factory?
tomtom50 said:
Tomtom,
I like your waterproof cable setup and plan to try it down the road when I switch over to the KT-LCD3. But I had a couple of questions about the brakes you used. I haven't found many brakes using the 2 pin Higo (red) most use a 3 pin connector (Higo (yellow) or JST). The 36V TSDZ2 kit I bought from Eco-Ebikes also uses a 3 wire to plug into the back of the VLCD5. If all of the controllers are the same how were you able to only use a 2 pin brake when it look like the standard TSDZ2 kit is a 3 pin setup? I think I've seen that some 3 pin brakes only use 2 of the pins anyway.
For my setup it's even more complicated as I'm installing the kit on a drop bar bike and all the HWBS have 3 pins (5V, signal and 0V). https://em3ev.com/shop/hwbs-ebrake-sensor/
Can I splice in a 2 pin Higo to a 3 wire HWBS and drop a wire?
The only 2 pin Higo brakes that might work for a drop bar brakes is the Grin TripWire 2 pin Higo. https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/ebrakes/tripwire-pull-2pinhigo.html
bridger18 said:
For the 3 wire HWBS you only need to pick up 5 volts somewhere for the third wire so what you are proposing would work.
Alternatively, you can you use the Bafang harness. I had some LCD3 displays made that are prewired for the bafang harness. PM me for a price if you want one. The advantage of this approach is that you can use all of the bafang throttle and brake sensor choices and it is ready to swap out the LCD3 for the color 850C when Casainho gets that done.
You need a Bafang 1T4 cable and an extender. (I have some of those too but you can get them all over.) Cut off the 8 pin male connector from the 1T4 cable and splice on the 8 pin female from the extender with the wires mapped as follows:
Signal | 8 pin female higo | Harness with 4-way splitter
TX | 1 – brown | Yellow
Throttle | 2 – orange | Blue
Brake | 3 – green | White
5v | 4 – white | Red
RX | 5 – yellow | Green
Vin / PL | 6 – red | Orange
P+ | 7 – blue | Brown
Ground | 8 - black | Black
MaartenL said:So my 120mm Fatbike Axel just broke for the 2nd time after 1250km of riding in total.
I bought this axel from Future-Bike (like the 1st one) and I'm wondering how it is possible it breaks... This time while standing on the peddle while cruising my city, nothing too fancy. Any suggestions or better options to replace?
I could move the Axel left to right because the 'locking ring' was maybe broken or missing. Could this be the reason it brakes so easy?
More likely a materials problem or perhaps in the post machining hardening process since future-bike.it manufactures the axle themselves. You really do need the lockring though. That could have contributed or caused other bad things to happen if this hadn't happened first.
Hello all, I am having some issues with my new TSDZ2 and was hoping one of you gurus would have some insight!
I have the VLCD5 display. I connected everything out of the box and it seemed to work fine. Since then I have installed onto my bike and suddenly the VLCD5 display is not working. More details (subject to a slightly hazy memory):
When I first powered it on after installing it showed a garbled display (seemingly random LCD segments lit up). I turned off, un- and re-plugged the connector and switched on again, still garbled (identical segments lit up as before). I thought perhaps it was getting nonsense data from the speed sensor so turned off, unplugged the speed sensor cable and tried again. I think it powered on momentarily the same as before but then switched off. I now cannot get it to switch on at all.
If I disconnect the VLCD5 and short V_BATT to the controller input then the motor works under torque (i.e. green to white here: https://github.com/hurzhurz/tsdz2/blob/master/pinout.md). If I reconnect and measure voltages at the VLCD5 platform then I get battery voltage where expected and 0 V to ground from the others. If I test continuity from the VLCD5 platform to the end of its cable each of the pads is connected as expected (I think).
Between the time the VLCD5 was last working and when it failed I unmounted it from its bracket. It is possible I applied pressure to the screen when reattaching, though there was no sign of damage when the display was working but garbled. I also regreased the secondary reduction gear (it was basically dry) with Mobil Mobilith SHC 220, which I suppose could have worked its way somewhere it shouldn't be.
If anyone has any troubleshooting steps I could follow to work out what went wrong here I would really appreciate it! I'm happy to buy another VLCD5, but it will take a while to arrive, and if its possible the problem is with the controller I would like to take steps to fix / replace in the meantime.
Thanks!!
I have the VLCD5 display. I connected everything out of the box and it seemed to work fine. Since then I have installed onto my bike and suddenly the VLCD5 display is not working. More details (subject to a slightly hazy memory):
When I first powered it on after installing it showed a garbled display (seemingly random LCD segments lit up). I turned off, un- and re-plugged the connector and switched on again, still garbled (identical segments lit up as before). I thought perhaps it was getting nonsense data from the speed sensor so turned off, unplugged the speed sensor cable and tried again. I think it powered on momentarily the same as before but then switched off. I now cannot get it to switch on at all.
If I disconnect the VLCD5 and short V_BATT to the controller input then the motor works under torque (i.e. green to white here: https://github.com/hurzhurz/tsdz2/blob/master/pinout.md). If I reconnect and measure voltages at the VLCD5 platform then I get battery voltage where expected and 0 V to ground from the others. If I test continuity from the VLCD5 platform to the end of its cable each of the pads is connected as expected (I think).
Between the time the VLCD5 was last working and when it failed I unmounted it from its bracket. It is possible I applied pressure to the screen when reattaching, though there was no sign of damage when the display was working but garbled. I also regreased the secondary reduction gear (it was basically dry) with Mobil Mobilith SHC 220, which I suppose could have worked its way somewhere it shouldn't be.
If anyone has any troubleshooting steps I could follow to work out what went wrong here I would really appreciate it! I'm happy to buy another VLCD5, but it will take a while to arrive, and if its possible the problem is with the controller I would like to take steps to fix / replace in the meantime.
Thanks!!
Hi. Some ebikes use 2-pin brake connectors, others use 3-pin. The most common brake sensor on production bikes is a simple switch, it only needs two wires, some manufacturers went with 2 pin connectors. Some brake sensors are powered, for example the HWBS, other manufacturers went with 3-pin with a power pin. Simple switch type sensor use two of the three pins. Bafang went with 3-pin, so 3-pin brake connectors are so common.bridger18 said:
I found only two breakout cables that are plug and play with the KT-LCD3. The one I used has 2-pin brake connectors, the other has three-pin, here's the link for the 3-pin cable
https://nl.aliexpress.com/store/product/Okfeet-1-in-5-bus-cable-5-to-1-wire-waterproof-controller-light-function-ebrake-throttle/3521021_32889386220.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.5.9cff180ej2vu1P
I have one if you have a question about it.
If you want to use a HWBS the OKfeet cable might be the cleanest way to go. I didn't mind 2-wire because I found brake levers and magnet kits with 2-wire connectors molded on.
http://www.topbikekit.com/wuxing-brake-with-2pins-waterproof-connector-p-543.html
http://www.topbikekit.com/2pcs-ebike-hydraulic-brake-sensor-for-power-cut-off-with-2pins-junlei-waterproof-connector-p-697.html
Topbikekit calls it a hydraulic brake sensor but really it is a little reed switch and a magnet, and it can be fitted to mechanical brakes.
I just saw this nice light TSDZ2 build.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=93713
He used a 14S2P battery from Biktrix that is tiny.
https://www.biktrix.ca/products/wee-wee-battery-pack
I have seen similar packs at Luna but this is nicer and cheaper, and it includes a nicely sized underseat pouch and a charger for 399CAD ($300USD). It is built up from Sanyo GA cells, rated 10A per cell, so 2P means 20A for the pack.
Now that I've had my TSDZ2 a while now I know 52V 7Ah is enough the way I ride. I have never drawn my big and heavy 52V 12.8Ah down even halfway in a day. This little pack would be perfect.
He claims the net added weight for the whole kit is 11.4 pounds.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=93713
He used a 14S2P battery from Biktrix that is tiny.
https://www.biktrix.ca/products/wee-wee-battery-pack
I have seen similar packs at Luna but this is nicer and cheaper, and it includes a nicely sized underseat pouch and a charger for 399CAD ($300USD). It is built up from Sanyo GA cells, rated 10A per cell, so 2P means 20A for the pack.
Now that I've had my TSDZ2 a while now I know 52V 7Ah is enough the way I ride. I have never drawn my big and heavy 52V 12.8Ah down even halfway in a day. This little pack would be perfect.
He claims the net added weight for the whole kit is 11.4 pounds.
Tomtom, I have done a number of TSDZ2 builds with 14S2P batteries in saddle bags and agree that it is a great lightweight and stealthy way to go. One thing about the battery you linked; GA cells in a 2P configuration are not great for continuous output above 12-13 amps. I always use a higher power cell like the Samsung 30Q which are great up to 25 amps continuous and peaks of 35-40 amps. A little overkill for TSDZ2 but can also be used for Bafang BBS02 and BBSHD. Slightly lower capacity than GA cells though.
Waynemarlow
10 kW
Depends on what you are using it for, but for off road, convenience and useability we have have gone from dedicated fibreglass containers mounted on the bottom bar to simple 14S2P blocks of 30Q cells in seat mounted tool bags. The bags are about £ 6.00 on Ebay, relatively water proof and yet to fail.
We thought we would notice the pack being high up but none of us seem to be able to.
For longer days we simply put a second pack in our backpacks which then keeps the bike light enough to lift over styles and fences .
We thought we would notice the pack being high up but none of us seem to be able to.
For longer days we simply put a second pack in our backpacks which then keeps the bike light enough to lift over styles and fences .
