New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

knutselmaaster said:
Ah I see, you've got a 20" back wheel.
Maybe you could try a sram dual drive hub.
This has direct drive on 2nd, positive (136%) demultiplication on 1st and negative (73%) on 3rd if I remember correctly.

Yes it has a big impact on the speed. I've looked at hub gears and I'd like to try the cheaper option of switching chain rings first as my current rear wheel is 48H and no hub gear is close to that number. The current rear wheel is probably over built but it is also a big hassle to change the gear type.
 
JaiCee said:
Does anyone have any recommendations for bigger chain rings (available in the UK)? I'd like to swap out the default one for something larger as I find I spend all my time in the 11t cog at the rear and it wears out in about 800 miles as I have a heavy cargo bike usually riding with my two kids.

2 suggestions:

1: Get a larger chainring on Aliexpress. The quality is fine and it is so much cheaper than anything that can be offered locally.

2: Get an IGH. If you have a small wheel, the torque is not as great on the IGH and it should be able to handle the loads. Alfine/nexus 8 are the strongest cheap IGH's.
 
I can´t flash the sw102. Report: unable to connect to the target.

The ST-link connections and driver are rigth.

'???????
 
At the end I clean the tops solders points (rests of resine away) and...... FLASH !!!!!!

Now it seems OK !!!

Cheers.
 
JaiCee said:
knutselmaaster said:
Ah I see, you've got a 20" back wheel.
Maybe you could try a sram dual drive hub.
This has direct drive on 2nd, positive (136%) demultiplication on 1st and negative (73%) on 3rd if I remember correctly.

Yes it has a big impact on the speed. I've looked at hub gears and I'd like to try the cheaper option of switching chain rings first as my current rear wheel is 48H and no hub gear is close to that number. The current rear wheel is probably over built but it is also a big hassle to change the gear type.
Yes that is why the dual drive could be the solution, it combines the derailleur with an IGH to make it work similar to a front derailleur setup.
It doesn't change the gear type, it adds one, making it quite easy to do.
I've had some in my workshop and they seem to handle small mid motor power quite well.
 
I found 34,38, 42, 44 tooth chainrings in AliExpress. However, I can't tell if the 34 & 38 tooth rings have an offset as the 42 tooth ones have.

My touring bike has a 42-52 setup with an offset 42 steel inner ring.19-09-06_11.41.43AM-1195x2124.jpg

I am asking because I want to make my duel chainring setup on a different bike with a smaller inner ring.
 
Hey,
can someone help me with this?
I power up the SW102 from the battery and connect GND, CLK and DIO to ST-Link and always have one of this problems.
 

Attachments

  • errr.png
    errr.png
    151.4 KB · Views: 1,417
johnybigh said:
Hey,
can someone help me with this?
I power up the SW102 from the battery and connect GND, CLK and DIO to ST-Link and always have one of this problems.
Looking at the messages on the screenshots, I would say there are issues with the connections or the ST-LinkV2 or the SW102 itself. Make sure the connections are correct and after try with a different unit of ST-LinkV2 or the SW102. Or even try a different computer.
 
Thanks to the shops https://www.electrifybike.com/ and https://www.eco-ebike.com/ that are being help in various ways (and then stimulating) to get the 860C display working on our OpenSource firmware, I hope to get it work in next 2 weeks. For now, I created a wiki page with pictures of the board and some technical details:

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/Color_LCD/wiki/Bafang-color-LCD-860C

image.png


image.png
 
knutselmaaster said:
JaiCee said:
Does anyone have any recommendations for bigger chain rings (available in the UK)? I'd like to swap out the default one for something larger as I find I spend all my time in the 11t cog at the rear and it wears out in about 800 miles as I have a heavy cargo bike usually riding with my two kids.
If you use 42x11 on your cargo bike all the time it is kind of logical that it wares out very quickly.
Assuming that you aren't going much faster than 15mph, the rotation speed is way too low causing premature ware of the drive train.
Your motor will also suffer a lot and probably won't last very long.
It has a negative influence on your battery life as at low rotation speed the efficiency is quite low.
The motor must be really powerful to haul such a heavy load and air drag while using such a high gear then. Seems like on 36V barely copes with hills and headwinds.
 
casainho said:
Thanks to the shops https://www.electrifybike.com/ and https://www.eco-ebike.com/ that are being help in various ways (and then stimulating) to get the 860C display working on our OpenSource firmware, I hope to get it work in next 2 weeks. For now, I created a wiki page with pictures of the board and some technical details:

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/Color_LCD/wiki/Bafang-color-LCD-860C

image.png


image.png

WOW GREAT I just ordered an 860C (won't arrive for a month). I will be happy to try the bootloader when you get it ready.
 
AZUR said:
feketehegyi said:
AZUR said:
Anyone can advise me what to do?

Well, I've just found recently that the motor can work without the LCD as well. It will use the default values, but still better than nothing.
I've felt it has about level 3 or 4 assist as default value. Motor can be switched on by short two pins. I did it with a jumper and 2 PCB pins at cable connector.


thanks feketehegyi


Can you direct me to instructions on how to turn on motor without lcd. ?
 
casainho said:
Thanks to the shops https://www.electrifybike.com/ and https://www.eco-ebike.com/ that are being help in various ways (and then stimulating) to get the 860C display working on our OpenSource firmware, I hope to get it work in next 2 weeks. For now, I created a wiki page with pictures of the board and some technical details:

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/Color_LCD/wiki/Bafang-color-LCD-860C

image.png


image.png

What is the advantage of the 860C over the 850C?
 
Brlowe said:
casainho said:
Thanks to the shops https://www.electrifybike.com/ and https://www.eco-ebike.com/ that are being help in various ways (and then stimulating) to get the 860C display working on our OpenSource firmware, I hope to get it work in next 2 weeks. For now, I created a wiki page with pictures of the board and some technical details:

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/Color_LCD/wiki/Bafang-color-LCD-860C

image.png


image.png

What is the advantage of the 860C over the 850C?

I just wrote a comparison table, see here: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Displays-comparison

image.png
 
Hello,

I just replaced the torque sensor and performed the manual calibration. The 2 bolts on the sensor are well tight.
I set it as it shows 125 units on standby and a max of 275.
The problem is as I use the bike the standby value increases with each use. Now it is at 230. :(
I did this process 2 times and it happens the same!

Any ideas why?
 
maximusdm said:
Hello,

I just replaced the torque sensor and performed the manual calibration. The 2 bolts on the sensor are well tight.
I set it as it shows 125 units on standby and a max of 275.
The problem is as I use the bike the standby value increases with each use. Now it is at 230. :(
I did this process 2 times and it happens the same!

Any ideas why?
1. If I understand correctly, are the stand by values always changing up or down a lot on every usage?
2. Or, the values are only changing up on every usage?

If 1., I would say your torque sensor is somehow faulty.

If 2., I would say for you to keep using until it will probably stabilize around a constant standby value.
 
Is there anyone that sells a complete motor assembly without the display, wires, crank arms or gear set?
 
RicMcK said:
I found 34,38, 42, 44 tooth chainrings in AliExpress. However, I can't tell if the 34 & 38 tooth rings have an offset as the 42 tooth ones have.

My touring bike has a 42-52 setup with an offset 42 steel inner ring.19-09-06_11.41.43AM-1195x2124.jpg

I am asking because I want to make my duel chainring setup on a different bike with a smaller inner ring.

The size of the motor makes it physically impossible for a chainring smaller than 42T to be offset. There may be monolithic 40T out there where the ring and adapter are one piece. Sturmey Archer makes rear 3 speed hubs with casette mounting to replace triple front chainrings.
They're very strong and provide an overdrive and underdrive ratio. So you can get ratios that aren't possible with chainrings.
http://www.sturmey-archer.com/en/products/detail/cs-rk3-silver
 
dameri said:
French legislation now bans the practice of eMTB tuning. If an individual or retailer are caught modifying an ebike to derestrict its maximum speed, the offence is now punishable by up to one-year imprisonment (two year for retailers) and up to a €30,000 fine.

https://ebike-mtb.com/en/france-bans-illegal-emtb-tuning/
I can only give my POV as an American on this. We have some limits here, but enforcement in my area is non existent.
Most Americans own cars, and don't ride bicycles. For an American to want to replace a car with an Ebike it has to be able to go 30mph. 20MPH E bikes will never get anywhere here. I suppose if you ride a pedal bike a 20mph ebike is an upgrade. But still not a substitute for a car.
Looks like an exercise in Sado/Masochism to me.
Of course we have our own very prominent issues right now.
 
john61ct said:
Interesting, can you link to the frame?
HAHA, that frame is SUPER old. Got it for my 20th birthday i think. And I'm turning 50 now :lol:
The bike was called Klein Mantra Comp. Made unique by a rear suspension system that only worked when you sat on the saddle, and not while pedaling standing. Well it doesn't work out really well, and is not used nowadays. The rear frame part is handmade from steel by me. Check my two build threads from the signature to get more details if you like 8)
 
Back
Top