New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

I have the TSDZ2B motor with 48 volt battery. I have OSF and heat mods installed and can pedal up to about 25 mph without overheating. At 74 years old, and having heart disease, I cannot keep up at the necessary cadence for long. I would like to try a larger chainring, Is there a 50 tooth that will mount directly and has the right offset? Or do I need to buy an adapter? I read that some adapters do not fit the B version. Can someone point me to a sprocket that will fit for sure or a combination of adapter and sprocket that is known to work. Thanks
You didn't say what gearing you have already.
You can go to Sheldon Brown's Bicycle gear calculator. For gear units enter your desired cadence, maybe 70rpm.
You can enter the rest of your bike spec. and try 3 chain rings at once.
 
Hello,

Yesterday I gone to my first "long" ride (about 50kms) and at about half the ride, suddenly, the bike become very hard to use. Even when I go down hill it's look like you use your brakes. While it work well with assistance, without it became a real pain to use. The engine only ride about 180kms.

Today I put the bike on a support, remove the chain, and turn the crank with my hand. It's hard and I can ear some gear noise. Does anyone have advice to solve this problem ? Blue gear ? More grease ?

Thank you,
Manu
Although this post is from 2 years ago I am replying as I had the same problem a couple of days ago, when I got home and stripped the motor I found that the torque sensor assembly rotor and stator parts had completely disintegrated with large amounts of plastic fragments mixed with grease and pickup coils jamming the rotation, the motor still managed to get me home though! The torque sensor assembly and pickup coils are available on ebay but as the cost is near £100 I have invested in a new TSDZ2B motor at £280 as it has been modified from the original. I could still use this motor without the benefit of torque assistance by rebuilding without the torque sensing function and will probably do so to keep the motor as an emergency reserve!
 
couldnt agree more, if the price would be double but better quality parts and better QC so it is not random what you get it will be perfect motor to go. I think there is a shop which sells it with better bearing, cooling pack, osf, better crank etc, but I think the price is more than double.
 
couldnt agree more, if the price would be double but better quality parts and better QC so it is not random what you get it will be perfect motor to go. I think there is a shop which sells it with better bearing, cooling pack, osf, better crank etc, but I think the price is more than double.

That still beats some guys here who sell stock motors with not additional warranties or anything, and yet price them twice as high as pspower where I am sure they are buying them from 😂

Or maybe they are 'testing them all, weeding them out so it's not longer luck of the draw and all you buy are the 'good models'''... yeah I don't think so either.

I have no complaints so far, I did add bearings just to be safe but all my problems so far seem to be user error ( like usual ). Cooling kit and osf still underway.

I would have no issue with paying more for a motor all done, as long as it comes with warranty but 'we'll work with you' is not legally binding warranty. Even shops which do all those mods will not take over your warranty claims, and in fact will point out that doing the mods voids your factory warranty.

The best ofc would be if they ever made a tsdz2c where they fixed all those issues ( no more circ clips for instance ). Direct connection motor with the housing without needing to buy a 3rd party insert. Maybe even controller with some better cooling through more direct contact with the outside air through the housing, even while I read it's the least of our problems concerning heat it's mostly the motor itself.
 
Do you need to take motor apart to add bearings? You are talking about shaft bearings right? I saw a pics somewhere and the guy had to take it completely apart. I am thinking to add bearings, do they improve the shaft play a bit? I also do not like pedals not being symmetrical from both sides to the bike axis, something you can get used to and the chain line. They did improve some stuff with B version but they could easily improve it even more without much additional costs.
 
Afaik the biggest improvement was the blue gear and changes to the clutch system ( and yet I still complain coming from my RaceFace isis bb, it feels like molasses in comparison ).

I also still need to source some proper spacers for the spindle, as I do have some very slight play which eventually would cause faster wear and tear.

I've only done the bearing on the non drive side below the rubber seal, and a single one as I had normal 6902rs and not the moisture resistant one's. I also ride through quite some mud / puddles ect and I want to preserve moisture ingress protection. I've got 6902 LLU coming in, then I will add those.

Adding bearing's doesn't remove axial play, but it will support the spindle on both sides of the circ clip which is the shear point. Axial play can be removed with adding spacers between the clutch assembly as seen here -> New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"
 
I finally bookmarked that post.. I seen it so many times but each time I want to look for it I can't find it 😂 If I had bookmarked it earlier I might have ordered the enduro bearings at the same time as the rs.

The issue I have though is that your link when you refer to placing shims just goes to post #1 of the thread. I haven't been able to source shims, especially thin one's ( like .5mm ).

I don't have a lot of play, but afaik any play at will just hasten wear and tear of the gears and increase shear force due to the wobble, so as you mention in the post it's better to minimize it from the start.
 
ok I have found 6902 LLU Japanese bearing, they are the same for tsdz2b? I have 2 tsdzb2. Is it 3x for 1 motor?
 
ok I have found 6902 LLU Japanese bearing, they are the same for tsdz2b? I have 2 tsdzb2. Is it 3x for 1 motor?


No pictures, but this is how it is done

Drive side, Spider:
-remove crank (imbus 8mm)
-remove the spider (5x imbus 4mm)
-push out rubber oilseal
-push in the bearing (Enduro 6902 LLU-Max) *
-remount spider
-place 14.5mm ID O-ring
-place 15x20x3 mm rubber ring (or second O-ring)
-remount crank
* Sometimes the bearing will be too tight or too loose inside the spider.
Too tight: 15min, heat spider in oven and/or cool bearing in freezer
Too loose: use Loctite 641 or epoxy


Non drive side:
-remove crank (imbus 8mm)
-remove oilseal with a thin screwdriver (axle side)
-push in the bearing (6902 2RS)
-push in the oilseal **
-remount crank
** If the oilseal is damaged with removing, use the spider-side seal.

I seen people not use the non drive side oil seal and opt for a second bearing there, but how much effect that might have is perhaps debatable.
 
I have one of those really good TSDZ2, the first one I bought 4 years ago. But I messed it up doing the regreasing earlier this year. Somehow one of the snap rings wasn't fully seated and came loose while riding and the torque sensor made contact and the ring got buggered up a bit. I gave the ring a skim of epoxy and I'll try it out one of these days. That bike now has a Photon.

As for the blue gear, my original one is still fine but I have a spare OEM blue gear and OEM brass gear in my parts bin. Pretty cool to be able to print this, though, and I downloaded your file and am doing a test print 100% infill PETG. I am doing this just for visual comparison now but maybe try to print one for use in the future. Probably should be printed in nylon or one of the tough carbon fiber filaments.

To replace our two TSDZ2 motors, my wife and I ordered two new Photon motors from CYC. Used 90% on asphalt road.

After 2000km, my Photon motor had a problem and I had to send the complete kit back to the seller.
After a month, I am told that a replacement will arrive soon.

To continue cycling I installed on my bike the TSDZ2 motor that my wife used. Well this motor works A1 after more than 22,000km. No complaints. I should have ordered two new TSDZ2B motors instead of these Photons motors at triple the price.

Tongsheng Co.'s quality control may be poor because the TSDZ2 motor my wife was using is of better quality than the TSDZ2 motor I was using. With this motor, I'm in no hurry to see my Photon motor again.

Receiving a perfect new TSDZ2 motor is a roll of the dice. But when it happens, you're in seventh heaven.

Little cyclist drama!
 
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... 6902 LLU Japanese bearing, they are the same for tsdz2b? I have 2 tsdzb2. Is it 3x for 1 motor?
You can use 2 or 3 bearings, but imho 2 bearings should be enough.
For Tsdz2 and TsdzB you can do the same.
 
Just printed the Wapous blue gear file... it came out perfect. The bearings make a nice snug fit. Nicely done.
Interesting! What material did you use? (And what kind of printer settings)
It would be great, if you could report back if and how long it lasts.
 
Oh, I'm not actually going to use it since my original one is still good and I have OEM spares. I used PETG, Prusa quality, 0.2mm, 100% infill, but you would probably want to use something stronger if it is going in the motor.

Interesting! What material did you use? (And what kind of printer settings)
It would be great, if you could report back if and how long it lasts.
 
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Do you have any info about this one? tsdz8?
....
The layout looks the same as the DM-01 from Toseven, so I think the bare motor will be bigger and heavier than the old Tsdz2 750W version.
In that case it looks too that both Toseven DM0x midmotors are based on Tongsheng Tsdzx developments.
But as with DM02/Tsdz2 comparision, it is only the outer casing. Inside they will be different.
Because nothing is published yet, we know nothing at all about it.
 
Hmm nothing is published but they already sell it? Price tag is almost 2x, it is either better quality or just a try to take more money for same stuff. DM looks nice but without custom firmware or open firmware it won't be as successful as tsdz2.
 
Because nothing is published yet, we know nothing at all about it.
Hmm nothing is published but they already sell it? Price tag is almost 2x, it is either better quality or just a try to take more money for same stuff. DM looks nice but without custom firmware or open firmware it won't be as successful as tsdz2.

I'm looking forward to someone giving it a try, it won't be me, and I hope they are ready to purchase a mislabeled b.

Does no one notice the video add included is for the B ... not an '8' ??

The only thing which really get's me is the 400 price tag compared to the 250 normal, giving it some credibility.
 
Actually, I'm more confused -> video tittle clearly B, not 8 but it doesn't match the 'old' B specs

"The new TSDZ2B motor of 500w/750w is coming soon, which is the upgraded version of TSDZ2B 250w with new appearence. The kit helps to covert your bike to an e-bike with max 500w/750w motor(Max torque:100Nm) and integrated torque sensor, which will bring you in-one riding experience from you and your e-bike since the motor outputs according to your pedaling force."

Pretty sure tsdz2b I have was listed with 80nm torque.
 
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