New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

[manoz]

So I managed to grind at the bottom bracket a bit but have another problem,(apart from rounding off the pedal nut so gona have to buy new pedals ), the profile of the gear cable guide under the BB is too big. If I take it off the motor goes through the BB fine. can anyone recommend a decent low profile guide in the UK? The current cable guide has a plastic nub which keeps it place under the tension of the cables.

 

[hefest]

So I managed to grind at the bottom bracket a bit but have another problem,(apart from rounding off the pedal nut so gona have to buy new pedals ), the profile of the gear cable guide under the BB is too big. If I take it off the motor goes through the BB fine. can anyone recommend a decent low profile guide in the UK? The current cable guide has a plastic nub which keeps it place under the tension of the cables.

I relocated the cable above BB instead of below.

 

[thineight]

I got myself pair of these Bafang magnetic brake sensors to use with Opensource firmware, but now I see that these have 3 wires instead of 2.

Any idea if this type of sensors actually uses 3 wires?

US $9.20 | BAFANG Hydraulic Brake Sensor BBS01 BBS02 BBSHD Brake Sensor
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cEOSbpgM

You can use the 3 wires version, you just need to identify the pair of interest. Use the magnet supplied with the sensors, put it away from the sensor and find the two wires that are in electrical continuity (use a multimeter). If you move the magnet close the continuity stops. Those two wires must be connected to the GND and brake wires of the cable from the display to the motor. Just forget about the 3rd wire :wink:

 

[hefest]

I got myself pair of these Bafang magnetic brake sensors to use with Opensource firmware, but now I see that these have 3 wires instead of 2.

Any idea if this type of sensors actually uses 3 wires?

US $9.20 | BAFANG Hydraulic Brake Sensor BBS01 BBS02 BBSHD Brake Sensor
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cEOSbpgM

You can use the 3 wires version, you just need to identify the pair of interest. Use the magnet supplied with the sensors, put it close by the sensor and find the two wires that are now in electrical continuity (use a multimeter). Those two wires must be connected to the GND and brake wires of the cable from the display to the motor. Just forget about the 3rd wire :wink:

I just finished with that on my own and came here to give the feedback if someone needs it and lo and behold, your comment is suggesting the same. What a coincidence

Anyhoe, for this particular pair, black and red wire are the ones to be used, white one is to be ignored.

PS: there is one difference to what you described. When there is no magnet nearby there is electrical continuity.

 

[csbike]

So I managed to grind at the bottom bracket a bit but have another problem,(apart from rounding off the pedal nut so gona have to buy new pedals ), the profile of the gear cable guide under the BB is too big. If I take it off the motor goes through the BB fine. can anyone recommend a decent low profile guide in the UK? The current cable guide has a plastic nub which keeps it place under the tension of the cables.

hi
I had a similar problem with mine. At first I opened up the motor thinking it would pass, but it wasn't enough. Then I simply tore apart the cable guide and removed the protruding part which was not useless because it was for the front derailleur cable which I had removed. I only kept a small piece for the rear gear cable and it's been there stuck between the motor and the frame without the screw that used to hold it in place.
You might be able to do something similar.

 

[feketehegyi]

fyi, my experiment to launch away my bike remotely
[youtube]6AmchAlzh4o[/youtube]

 

[thineight]

PS: there is one difference to what you described. When there is no magnet nearby there is electrical continuity.

My mistake in explaination, sorry. I corrected the text above.
You have to keep the brake logic in mind: when the gnd-brake circuit is open (no continuity) the motor works, when you short them the motor stops.

 

[mctubster]

I got it, it is the end of the dupont connector. But is it tight enough around the pins?

Here is a video I made at the start of the year re flashing the motor without anything other than the STLINK cable. I was upgrading the opensource firmware at the time but the same connection can be used to flash the original or opensource firmware

[youtube]S2SRKu6-Qyw[/youtube]

 

[mctubster]

fyi, my experiment to launch away my bike remotely

Lol very cool, even a little freaky!

 

[mctubster]

- Get a spare controller $30 from PSWPower and use the cables, seems best value as you will have a spare controller pcb

If I understand this refers to buying this
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/Tongsheng-TSDZ2-contr-leur-de-moteur-central-de-v-lo-lectrique-pour-36-V-48-V/32841413972.html
in order to recycle the connector.
Yet the what I need is the female connector on the display side, not the controller's male connector, right?

Can't I just recycle the connector that comes from my existing VLCD5?

thanks

Yes if you are not planning on going back to the VLCD5, you can use the wiring harness and connector

 

[csbike]

hi,
thank you all for your replies. I ordered the KT-LCD3 without the additional cable. I am going to install the custom firmware as soon as I receive it.

But for now I also have a question regarding the stock firmware.

I was wondering how the battery level indicator and low-voltage cutoff work in the stock firmware. I am using a LiFePO4 battery from PingBattery, and the discharge curve is very flat.
So I would like to find out how to:
- determine how much battery I have left
- identify at what voltage the controller will turn off. Also, what will turn off? The controller? the motor? the display? All of them?

 

[mctubster]

I was wondering how the battery level indicator and low-voltage cutoff work in the stock firmware. I am using a LiFePO4 battery from PingBattery, and the discharge curve is very flat.

How many cells? Have yet to find an accurate battery level indicator.

The opensource firmware however tracks watt hours consumed which is far more accurate

 

[csbike]

How many cells? Have yet to find an accurate battery level indicator.

I think 12 in series (36V) x 3 in parallel (15Ah each cell being 5). Why? Do you also have a pingbattery?

The opensource firmware however tracks watt hours consumed which is far more accurate

This is great news! I thought I had read that somewhere but I wasn't sure and I was already thinking of implementing it myself if it wasn't there!!!

 

[jimmyfergus]

Hi All - I just fitted a TSDZ2/48V, all stock & standard, but it appears to be defective. All appears well, but I get no significant assist at any level, but the motor is trying to do something. The throttle makes the chainwheel turn very slowly and gently. I made a video. Is this a known failure mode?

I'm looking forward to moving to the FOSS firmware but first I need a working unit. I'm in a frustrating struggle right now to get some customer service from PSWPower.

I'd really appreciate some info, opinions and suggestions from those who know this motor well. I have a a stock install of the throttle 48V kit.

• 
  The display looks good - no error codes, valid speed is displayed, battery shows full

• 
  On walk assist, or if I use the throttle (at any position > zero and any bike speed), my chainring moves slowly with little jumps, as in my video. In high gear this can move the bike at 1-2kph

• 
  I get little or no assist when riding whatever the assist level, Eco to Turbo. Just when I wonder if it might be doing something I try turning it off and realize I feel no significant difference.

• 
  In the hidden menu torque reading I see 81 at rest, 120 ordinarly pedaling, up to about 160.

• 
  I swapped in a replacement controller board (since I bought a spare for the connector for the FOSS firmware) but symptoms are completely unchanged!

• 
  I checked the pins on the display connector and they're not bent - appear to be connected fine.

• 
  I've tried with brake and throttle plugged in, and also with them disconnected, with no difference. I also moved my speed sensor close to the rim and further away - I still get good speed readings.

Can this make sense? Could the display unit conceivably cause this? Or would it have to be the motor itself? If the display unit could cause this I should push on with the FOSS firmware & other display.

What should I experience from the throttle? I'd expect to be able to tell the difference between zero and full throttle when riding. Surely when I spin the wheel and it reads that I'm going at 10mph, the throttle would spin the chainring with a bit more power?

How profound should the assist be? I'd expect the full Turbo power to be quite noticeable? I know it's not a hugely powerful motor, but surely it's supposed to be doubling or tripling my power, right? I should know for sure it's working? I would expect to be able to ride upslopes in a higher gear than without assist (I can't).

 

[Aquakitty]

Hi All - I just fitted a TSDZ2/48V, all stock & standard, but it appears to be defective. All appears well, but I get no significant assist at any level, but the motor is trying to do something. The throttle makes the chainwheel turn very slowly and gently. I made a video. Is this a known failure mode?

I'm looking forward to moving to the FOSS firmware but first I need a working unit. I'm in a frustrating struggle right now to get some customer service from PSWPower.

I'd really appreciate some info, opinions and suggestions from those who know this motor well. I have a a stock install of the throttle 48V kit.

• 
  The display looks good - no error codes, valid speed is displayed, battery shows full

• 
  On walk assist, or if I use the throttle (at any position > zero and any bike speed), my chainring moves slowly with little jumps, as in my video. In high gear this can move the bike at 1-2kph

• 
  I get little or no assist when riding whatever the assist level, Eco to Turbo. Just when I wonder if it might be doing something I try turning it off and realize I feel no significant difference.

• 
  In the hidden menu torque reading I see 81 at rest, 120 ordinarly pedaling, up to about 160.

• 
  I swapped in a replacement controller board (since I bought a spare for the connector for the FOSS firmware) but symptoms are completely unchanged!

• 
  I checked the pins on the display connector and they're not bent - appear to be connected fine.

• 
  I've tried with brake and throttle plugged in, and also with them disconnected, with no difference. I also moved my speed sensor close to the rim and further away - I still get good speed readings.

Can this make sense? Could the display unit conceivably cause this? Or would it have to be the motor itself? If the display unit could cause this I should push on with the FOSS firmware & other display.

What should I experience from the throttle? I'd expect to be able to tell the difference between zero and full throttle when riding. Surely when I spin the wheel and it reads that I'm going at 10mph, the throttle would spin the chainring with a bit more power?

How profound should the assist be? I'd expect the full Turbo power to be quite noticeable? I know it's not a hugely powerful motor, but surely it's supposed to be doubling or tripling my power, right? I should know for sure it's working? I would expect to be able to ride upslopes in a higher gear than without assist (I can't).

I'm far from an expert, but I wonder if you are having a battery issue. Do you have another battery you can try? What voltage is it set at? I experienced those symptoms when I tried to put a 36v battery on a unit set to 48v, but I assume you'd see display warnings if that were the case.
My throttle torques nicely, very noticable. Seems to be full power throttle no matter the setting (I am using stock firmware though).
My 48v system completely stock is plenty to go reasonably speedily up a steep hill on my recumbent, and even better on an upright bike.

 

[jimmyfergus]

I wonder if you are having a battery issue.

Oh, thank you for the prompt - I feel stupid for not getting out my voltmeter.

I have a 52V battery, and that should be fine as long as it's well under full charge. I put it on a (cheap) charger with a 60% limit, and it lit its charging LED for a while, and then declared it was charged. I took that to mean it had just reached 60%.

But I just checked with a voltmeter and it's 58V - beyond what the motor will accept. That is probably my issue. I also imagined I'd have seen complete failure or an error code but perhaps not.

Overvoltage seems very likely to be it. Now I need to discharge my battery somehow or else flash the FOSS firmware that can accept the voltage (why I bought the battery).

Thanks again!

 

[mctubster]

I think 12 in series (36V) x 3 in parallel (15Ah each cell being 5). Why? Do you also have a pingbattery?

Just curious. I would have likely bought a LiFePO4 battery had I known that they existed! Instead I have to put up with ensuring my battery does not sit at 100% for more than a couple of days, esp when hot out and be more concerned about risk management when charging.

The voltage curve for LiFePO4 is far superior (very flat) to LiCo (ICR) as well which is very useful as it impacts max cadence far less as the battery discharges.

 

[ri53hu]

Aguakitty"
Hi, I had the same battery battery problem 58.8v 48v engine
so i used firnware 52v-19s here from https://www.eco-ebike.com/blogs/eco-cycles-instructionals/tsdz2programmingfromscratch

 

[Aquakitty]

Aguakitty"
Hi, I had the same battery battery problem 58.8v 48v engine
so i used firnware 52v-19s here from https://www.eco-ebike.com/blogs/eco-cycles-instructionals/tsdz2programmingfromscratch

Ya, I wasn't the one with the issue but that's what I was getting at. They should check what the motor is set to.

 

[wilkensone]

So I managed to grind at the bottom bracket a bit but have another problem,(apart from rounding off the pedal nut so gona have to buy new pedals ), the profile of the gear cable guide under the BB is too big. If I take it off the motor goes through the BB fine. can anyone recommend a decent low profile guide in the UK? The current cable guide has a plastic nub which keeps it place under the tension of the cables.

Hi @manoz or anyone else who did this,

Could you walk me through how you did this?

I'm having the same issue but can't see anything specific which might be causing the issue. I've attached some photos of what I'm working with. Reading these comments, it looks it might actually be catching on something in the middle before the non-drive threads.

Non-drive side image https://imgur.com/wKxFOHd

No obstruction externally https://imgur.com/hxJ0rbY

Internal of BB https://imgur.com/o86WAB9

How far it is currently sliding in - https://imgur.com/BqB97QL

Thanks!

 

[mctubster]

So I managed to grind at the bottom bracket a bit but have another problem,(apart from rounding off the pedal nut so gona have to buy new pedals ), the profile of the gear cable guide under the BB is too big. If I take it off the motor goes through the BB fine. can anyone recommend a decent low profile guide in the UK? The current cable guide has a plastic nub which keeps it place under the tension of the cables.

Hi @manoz or anyone else who did this,

Could you walk me through how you did this?

I'm having the same issue but can't see anything specific which might be causing the issue. I've attached some photos of what I'm working with. Reading these comments, it looks it might actually be catching on something in the middle before the non-drive threads.

Thanks!

It seems like some of the bottom bracket shells flare out in the middle, perhaps for stiffness. Typically a bottom bracket is installed from both sides, such that something approaching the internal diameter of the shell doesn't have to pass through the middle - until you try to install the TSDZ2!

I don't like the sound of "Optimised BB Shell" on your sticker.

Are you able to get a piece of dowel that is slightly less diameter (than the TSDZ2 bottom bracket insert), it would hopefully allow you to visualise if there is a flare out of material and if it is possible to mechanically remove?

 

[hefest]

So I managed to grind at the bottom bracket a bit but have another problem,(apart from rounding off the pedal nut so gona have to buy new pedals ), the profile of the gear cable guide under the BB is too big. If I take it off the motor goes through the BB fine. can anyone recommend a decent low profile guide in the UK? The current cable guide has a plastic nub which keeps it place under the tension of the cables.

Hi @manoz or anyone else who did this,

Could you walk me through how you did this?

I'm having the same issue but can't see anything specific which might be causing the issue. I've attached some photos of what I'm working with. Reading these comments, it looks it might actually be catching on something in the middle before the non-drive threads.

Thanks!

It seems like some of the bottom bracket shells flare out in the middle, perhaps for stiffness. Typically a bottom bracket is installed from both sides, such that something approaching the internal diameter of the shell doesn't have to pass through the middle - until you try to install the TSDZ2!

I don't like the sound of "Optimised BB Shell" on your sticker.

Are you able to get a piece of dowel that is slightly less diameter (than the TSDZ2 bottom bracket insert), it would hopefully allow you to visualise if there is a flare out of material and if it is possible to mechanically remove?

Maybe he can put some lipstick on the suspicious part of the tsdz2. It will leave the mark on the inside of BB shell.

 

[RicMcK]

I don't know if this is the correct place for this question, as I am a NEWBEE.

Does anyone know where I can get a male-female set of either 6 or 8 pin display connectors? Without buying another motor control board and stock display?

Thanks
Rick McK Seattle WA

 

[mittkonto]

I don't know if this is the correct place for this question, as I am a NEWBEE.

Does anyone know where I can get a male-female set of either 6 or 8 pin display connectors? Without buying another motor control board and stock display?

Thanks
Rick McK Seattle WA

It seems to be a HIGO-Z812 you are looking for.

 

[mittkonto]

Sorry, unrelated question about your video; I couldn't help noticing your bike light...

How is it working out for you? ([...] Busch + Müller IQ-X E)

I'm little use to you on driving it I'm afraid, as mine is the dynamo-driven (non-ebike) version of the light: the IQ-X.

I can tell you that I love my light and the E-bike version is 50% brighter. I've used mine for about the last 2 years for commuting/transportation riding. It feels like a moped light.

As with all German StVZO regulation lights it has a controlled beam pattern like a motor vehicle's dipped/low-beam, i.e. it has a sharp horizontal cutoff so it lights the road and ahead but doesn't shine in people's eyes or waste light on the sky and trees. They achieve the control by aiming the LED emitter backwards at a reflector as car lights do, rather than forwards through a diffracting optic as cruder LED lights do.

As such is definitely an on-road light. When I rode a nearby unlit path at night distant pedestrians ahead appear as disembodied legs because their body is unlit, and I got tapped on the head by tree branches I didn't see coming.

However since it's not wasting light on the sky, it's very efficient and bright where it does shine. It also has wide-directional visibility LEDs for daytime.

I also have the B&M Secula rear light which is very neat and quite bright too. Since German law requires generator lights to StVZO reg on all road bikes, buying them from Germany can be much less expensive, at least compared to US prices

Great info! Thanks!

However, I did ask around, and there seem to be some indication that the system would not be able to provide enough oomph.

Would really appreciate if you could straighten out this question-mark for me!
Thanks a bunch!

(For anyone raking the forums down the lane; Busch + Müller IQ-X E )

I just bought this Busch + Müller Lumotec IQ Cyo Premium E Front Light for E-Bikes - 1752Q42/6N

I will be documenting the installation using a MOSFET to switch / power it. It has left Germany, so expect it next week down here in NZ.

Cheers

Nice one! Looking forward to it!
Btw, could you give it a quick go with the default 6v before you install the mosfet?
Thanks!