New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

[johnybigh]

Is any issues to 36V motor powered by 14s battery? Overheating or something?

 

[Cristian]

Does anyone know where i can buy a 52v battery in the EU? I have TSDZ2 with OSF running 48v and i want to upgrade to 52V and leave the 48V battery for my wife's bike, which will is also getting a TSDZ2 with OSF.

Should i upgrade to the 850C? Is it worth the cost? I'm on KT-LCD3 for 1 year and 2000km. Running so fine, it's been great, trouble free.

If it ain’t broke...

No, it ain't broke. But I still have to get another display for my wife's bike to run OSF. So I was wondering if I should get the 850C or would a KT-LCD3 be enough. But I guess I will be giving the LCD3 to my wife, she will be pretty happy with it and I'll get a 850C.

 

[thineight]

Does anyone know where i can buy a 52v battery in the EU? I have TSDZ2 with OSF running 48v and i want to upgrade to 52V and leave the 48V battery for my wife's bike, which will is also getting a TSDZ2 with OSF.

Should i upgrade to the 850C? Is it worth the cost? I'm on KT-LCD3 for 1 year and 2000km. Running so fine, it's been great, trouble free.

If it ain’t broke...

No, it ain't broke. But I still have to get another display for my wife's bike to run OSF. So I was wondering if I should get the 850C or would a KT-LCD3 be enough. But I guess I will be giving the LCD3 to my wife, she will be pretty happy with it and I'll get a 850C.

In case you may also evaluate to use the open source firmware (v.20 casainho-buba) recently ported for stock displays.

See
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=98281&sid=31349e2fd1fae7f300e37961aa1a4266&start=775#p1528052
And previous posts.

 

[Waynemarlow]

Is any issues to 36V motor powered by 14s battery? Overheating or something?

No problem, just make sure you limit the battery amps to a level which will keep the motor under 550W - 600W or so, you can pull a lot more, some are mentioning 800W's or so, but the temptation is to use that sort of power on long climbs and as Casainho found, you can damage the magnetism of the motor.

Casainho's & Buba's FW also allows a temp sensor to be fitted which allows short bursts of power in relative safety from damaging a motor.

 

[manoz]

So I have had yet another motor fail on me, this time I was able to diagnose the problem. It's the controller. I connected the motor unit to another controller and it worked fine. I just need to switch the controllers. I understand you have to remove the cover on the drive side and then 2 screws. Then there's some sort of black silicon for "water proofing". Any tips on removing that? Is that the only things holding the controller in place?

 

[Gyuri89]

Hi,

Please help me to trouble shoot my problem.
Yesterday storm Ciara hit the UK and my bike too.
After a heavy rain I went home and everything was ok with the bike so far. I disconnected the battery and charged it. After having some rest I wanted to go out again and as I switched the power on with the on switch and all the digits came active on the display and it didn't change. Since then nothing is working and switching off is impossible with the KT-LCD3 switch. I can switch it off with the battery switch.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=13BSOSMR2ptX0BMoAvdxMWRuQG8Q8i0kS

I took it apart everywhere where it is possible to get soaked but I didn't see any water. Tried to dry it with hairdryer but nothing changed.
Previously the same happened to it in the summer but that time it got cured on its own after a couple of hours. That time was a bit different as the display was always on automatically when the battery witch was on.

I guess it is the switch of the KT-LCD3 that's got some water and there is a short circuit in it.

How could I test it? Which cables in the display should I test and how to detect a short circuit in the switch?

Thank you guys!!

https://drive.google.com/open?id=13BSOSMR2ptX0BMoAvdxMWRuQG8Q8i0kS

 

[LJay]

Anyway, when I switched from the VLCD6 which does not report a voltage number to the SW102 with OSF which does, the voltage reported is 1.3 volts higher than a direct reading from the battery with a voltmeter, so, my guess is that the component on the controller board responsible for voltage measurement has a very loose quality check.

So the core of the problem most probably lies in high tolerance of resistors used in the voltage divider.
Question is, how the manufacturer repairs this issue, for a warranty claimed units (fw changes or controller replacement).

Buy yourself an STLink and reprogram the voltage, its very easy and only costs a few Euros
Follow the link here
https://www.eco-ebike.com/blogs/eco-cycles-instructionals/tsdz2programmingfromscratch

LJay.
Nebo here, the link explains everything. https://www.eco-ebike.com/blogs/eco-cycles-instructionals/tsdz2-motor-firmware-programming

I know about this option, but I'm not sure if it is the right solution for the full charge problem. Voltage value modified in this tutorial is most probably some global constant, that changes behavior of whole firmware, not just HVC function.

ri53hu: zdravím dalšího Čecha

 

[ri53hu]

Anyway, when I switched from the VLCD6 which does not report a voltage number to the SW102 with OSF which does, the voltage reported is 1.3 volts higher than a direct reading from the battery with a voltmeter, so, my guess is that the component on the controller board responsible for voltage measurement has a very loose quality check.

So the core of the problem most probably lies in high tolerance of resistors used in the voltage divider.
Question is, how the manufacturer repairs this issue, for a warranty claimed units (fw changes or controller replacement).

Buy yourself an STLink and reprogram the voltage, its very easy and only costs a few Euros
Follow the link here
https://www.eco-ebike.com/blogs/eco-cycles-instructionals/tsdz2programmingfromscratch

LJay.
Nebo here, the link explains everything. https://www.eco-ebike.com/blogs/eco-cycles-instructionals/tsdz2-motor-firmware-programming

I know about this option, but I'm not sure if it is the right solution for the full charge problem. Voltage value modified in this tutorial is most probably some global constant, that changes behavior of whole firmware, not just HVC function.

ri53hu: zdravím dalšího Čecha

LJay: taky zdravím.R.

 

[manoz]

I've managed to switch the controller in my motor since my other one wasn't working but now the motor feels different. It isn't providing as much acceleration as before. Typically I can get by on assist level 2 but now I find myself putting it in assist 3 or 4 and then turning it down to 2 as I get up to speed. What could have caused this?

 

[James Broadhurst]

So I have had yet another motor fail on me, this time I was able to diagnose the problem. It's the controller. I connected the motor unit to another controller and it worked fine. I just need to switch the controllers. I understand you have to remove the cover on the drive side and then 2 screws. Then there's some sort of black silicon for "water proofing". Any tips on removing that? Is that the only things holding the controller in place?

Once the screws are off (and the 3 motor screws) the controller should be loose but held in place by the black rubbery stuff. For that, go into a coffee place and acquire a good few of their coffee stirrers, and use them to poke the mastic out and then clean it all off.

The only problem I came across was getting the motor cover off. The M4 screws were corroded into the aluminium. In the end I had to take an angle grinder to the heads of the screw and then a set of mole grips to what’s left of the screw. A bit disgusted to admit this as I’ve had years of experience getting these Allen head or cap head screws off and rarely failed.

Edit: I see you’ve managed it! The change in assist level (to achieve similar performance) might be simply different torque calibration.

 

[casainho]

I've managed to switch the controller in my motor since my other one wasn't working but now the motor feels different. It isn't providing as much acceleration as before. Typically I can get by on assist level 2 but now I find myself putting it in assist 3 or 4 and then turning it down to 2 as I get up to speed. What could have caused this?

I don´t have a clue, that is strange, I would not expect that to happen.

 

[manoz]

So I have had yet another motor fail on me, this time I was able to diagnose the problem. It's the controller. I connected the motor unit to another controller and it worked fine. I just need to switch the controllers. I understand you have to remove the cover on the drive side and then 2 screws. Then there's some sort of black silicon for "water proofing". Any tips on removing that? Is that the only things holding the controller in place?

Once the screws are off (and the 3 motor screws) the controller should be loose but held in place by the black rubbery stuff. For that, go into a coffee place and acquire a good few of their coffee stirrers, and use them to poke the mastic out and then clean it all off.

The only problem I came across was getting the motor cover off. The M4 screws were corroded into the aluminium. In the end I had to take an angle grinder to the heads of the screw and then a set of mole grips to what’s left of the screw. A bit disgusted to admit this as I’ve had years of experience getting these Allen head or cap head screws off and rarely failed.

Edit: I see you’ve managed it! The change in assist level (to achieve similar performance) might be simply different torque calibration.

I managed to get hold of some long needle nose pliers and grabbed the stuff and pulled it out. Used some gorilla silicon to fill the void and wrapped the cover in electrical tape to fill the gaps around that part of the casing. When I took that cover off to access the screws that hold the controller it was full of corrosion so maybe that's why the controller failed. The bike is being ridden 50-60 miles a day in British Winter and we are having a very stormy winter.

Yeah I've only got 2 screw on the motor cover. I had to dremel the head off the other 2 since I destroyed the heads trying to get them out. I'll use mole grips to remove them and order some higher quality screws? The strange thing is I had wrapped the seam in electrical tape and when I took that tape off to access the screws the heads of the screws were full of grit.

 

[volcamin]

Is anyone getting some regular creaking noise from the axle while pushing the pedals hard ? Going up hill or just accelerating on flat roads same noise...
I have regreased and tightened all the elements that hold in place the motor on the frame to eliminate this possibility, so it looks like it's coming from the motor itself.

Just wondering if any of you had this issue so far ? (Also, I have a coaster brake version).

I will probably have to send it back to China or Italy for repair (seller pswpower) and that will take some time My next motor will be a bafang, hopefully more reliable.

Hello, i recently got this same problem, have you or anyone else figured out what was it? Its sounds pretty serious and i just tightend all bolts and added little bit of rubber between the frame and the motor. I have only 410km done on this motor.
Thank you

 

[manoz]

I've managed to switch the controller in my motor since my other one wasn't working but now the motor feels different. It isn't providing as much acceleration as before. Typically I can get by on assist level 2 but now I find myself putting it in assist 3 or 4 and then turning it down to 2 as I get up to speed. What could have caused this?

I don´t have a clue, that is strange, I would not expect that to happen.

It's managed to fix itself somehow, very weird

 

[manoz]

Is anyone getting some regular creaking noise from the axle while pushing the pedals hard ? Going up hill or just accelerating on flat roads same noise...
I have regreased and tightened all the elements that hold in place the motor on the frame to eliminate this possibility, so it looks like it's coming from the motor itself.

Just wondering if any of you had this issue so far ? (Also, I have a coaster brake version).

I will probably have to send it back to China or Italy for repair (seller pswpower) and that will take some time My next motor will be a bafang, hopefully more reliable.

Hello, i recently got this same problem, have you or anyone else figured out what was it? Its sounds pretty serious and i just tightend all bolts and added little bit of rubber between the frame and the motor. I have only 410km done on this motor.
Thank you

Did you put grease between the motor and bottom bracket? Personally I cover the bottom bracket shaft in grease, except the thread which I use thread lock for. Also grease on the part of the motor which butts up against the side of the bottom bracket. Like the other user did, old inner tube wrapped around chainstay for the anchor also helps. Though on the drive side can only put inner tube on top of chain stay otherwise not enough room for motor. I've done nearly 5000km and the bike is nice and silent and I push hard on the pedals since I love to sprint out of the saddle and we have lots of hills too

 

[ezrider1199]

Is anyone getting some regular creaking noise from the axle while pushing the pedals hard ? Going up hill or just accelerating on flat roads same noise...
I have regreased and tightened all the elements that hold in place the motor on the frame to eliminate this possibility, so it looks like it's coming from the motor itself.

Just wondering if any of you had this issue so far ? (Also, I have a coaster brake version).

I will probably have to send it back to China or Italy for repair (seller pswpower) and that will take some time My next motor will be a bafang, hopefully more reliable.

Hello, i recently got this same problem, have you or anyone else figured out what was it? Its sounds pretty serious and i just tightend all bolts and added little bit of rubber between the frame and the motor. I have only 410km done on this motor.
Thank you

Did you put grease between the motor and bottom bracket? Personally I cover the bottom bracket shaft in grease, except the thread which I use thread lock for. Also grease on the part of the motor which butts up against the side of the bottom bracket. Like the other user did, old inner tube wrapped around chainstay for the anchor also helps. Though on the drive side can only put inner tube on top of chain stay otherwise not enough room for motor

If you have a healthy motor and if you have creaking when pedaling chances are the crank arms arent tight enough. The square spindles are pretty crappy in general and you have to tighten it really hard - that was my experience to get rid of creaking. I also had another issue early on because the motor had significant play in the bottom bracket so i created a shim out of aluminum flashing to fill most of the space (that really helped).

 

[James Broadhurst]

Just wondering if any of you had this issue so far ?

I’ve had this almost with every motor and it’s always been the pedals. Repeated poking grease into the bearings can sometimes cure it.

 

[James Broadhurst]

..... order some higher quality screws?

High tensile black self-colour hexagon socket cap screw. Bike disc callipers are attached with these.

 

[manoz]

..... order some higher quality screws?

High tensile black self-colour hexagon socket cap screw. Bike disc callipers are attached with these.

Yes thanks, will look on ebay. What size are the screws for the motor casing? Have tape wrapped around my casing so difficult to get to

 

[beardydave]

Can you show on a picture which part you’re upgrading? I have difficulty visualizing it.

This bit, borrowed someone else's image

 

[manoz]

Can you show on a picture which part you’re upgrading? I have difficulty visualizing it.

This bit, borrowed someone else's image

This happened to me to, thankfully I had a spare motor and took it from there. I emailed the store on aliexpress and they sent me one for shipping costs.

 

[skestans]

Can you show on a picture which part you’re upgrading? I have difficulty visualizing it.

This bit, borrowed someone else's image

I'm probably being really thick at this point, but... That's the shaft the cranks are attached to?

 

[mctubster]

Hi,

Please help me to trouble shoot my problem.
Yesterday storm Ciara hit the UK and my bike too.
After a heavy rain I went home and everything was ok with the bike so far. I disconnected the battery and charged it. After having some rest I wanted to go out again and as I switched the power on with the on switch and all the digits came active on the display and it didn't change. Since then nothing is working and switching off is impossible with the KT-LCD3 switch. I can switch it off with the battery switch.

From memory that is what it does when it can't talk to the motor. I would look more closely at the 6 or 8 pin connector near the motor to see if there is any water in there. It is low down and not that well sealed. Try drying it out.

 

[Gyuri89]

There is no connector at all. I soldered the wires directly and sealed them properly. I've opened the seals up and it was bone dry. I couldn't find any water anywhere, not in the display nor switch nor controller. Maybe it is just a coincidence...??? I ordered a new KT-LCD3 also have a spare controller.
I just remembered when I switched it on before the breakdown I still had couple of seconds when the display seemed to be normal so I rolled a couple of meters and noticed there was no power and the speed meter was jumping crazy exactly the same symptoms when the magnet on the spoke slips off its position. Then I stopped to adjust the magnet and the whole system went down and I got the screen with all the digits on.

 

[mctubster]

There is no connector at all. I soldered the wires directly and sealed them properly. I've opened the seals up and it was bone dry. I couldn't find any water anywhere, not in the display nor switch nor controller. Maybe it is just a coincidence...??? I ordered a new KT-LCD3 also have a spare controller.
I just remembered when I switched it on before the breakdown I still had couple of seconds when the display seemed to be normal so I rolled a couple of meters and noticed there was no power and the speed meter was jumping crazy exactly the same symptoms when the magnet on the spoke slips off its position. Then I stopped to adjust the magnet and the whole system went down and I got the screen with all the digits on.

Does sound weird. The KT-LCD3 is reasonably well sealed, the controller in the motor seems pretty well potted. What about the speed sensor cable join having water in it? Maybe it thinks you are trying to program it

Have you tried flashing the controller and LT-LCD3 again? Check if you can read the program code out of both of them.