New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

[manoz]

There is no connector at all. I soldered the wires directly and sealed them properly. I've opened the seals up and it was bone dry. I couldn't find any water anywhere, not in the display nor switch nor controller. Maybe it is just a coincidence...??? I ordered a new KT-LCD3 also have a spare controller.
I just remembered when I switched it on before the breakdown I still had couple of seconds when the display seemed to be normal so I rolled a couple of meters and noticed there was no power and the speed meter was jumping crazy exactly the same symptoms when the magnet on the spoke slips off its position. Then I stopped to adjust the magnet and the whole system went down and I got the screen with all the digits on.

Storm Ciara destroyed my controller [curses]

 

[Waynemarlow]

On the 3 motors I have sitting here, its water damage that has been the failure on all 3. Odd failures though as all 3 are from different overall problems, but has ended up with the controller damaged. Its odd as the only way in for the water is through the silicon where the leads go through or the seal around the main crank ( plastic cover ) which then gets into the main motor and controller compartment via the torque sensor wire cutout ( unfortunately you cannot silicon it in as it has to allow the springs on the torque sensor to work properly ).

In the last motor I installed ( still running fine ) I packed entirely the void behind the cable entry point, behind the plastic cover with waterproof thick grease to stop water being forced up against silicon of the cables, as I suspect its here its getting in. I'm not sure how to beef up the seal around the crank other than making an additional seal on the outside of the case which many engines in adverse conditions do have this outer steel cover as close as the crank as possible and then an inner seal dealing with just water.

 

[Waynemarlow]

Forgot to mention also to fill the connectors with silicon grease or contact grease, sadly once a connector fails it seems you can't get it back working.

 

[michih.]

Can you show on a picture which part you’re upgrading? I have difficulty visualizing it.

This bit, borrowed someone else's image

I'm probably being really thick at this point, but... That's the shaft the cranks are attached to?

Yes, it breaks when standing on the cradle or when going downhill it becomes dangerous!!

Mfg Michael

 

[ancan]

I've got a problem with flickering headlight that is connected to the TSDZ2's light connectors. It's OK from start but when voltage drops under 50V the light gets more and more unstable. I assume this is due to crappy voltage regulator on the 6V output. Unfortunately when it gets really bad my lamp keeps turning off as well, which is rather annoying.

Anyone have any ideas on a workaround for this. Put a capacitor on the 6V output? What size of cap? Is there room to put it in the motor?

 

[Gyuri89]

There is no connector at all. I soldered the wires directly and sealed them properly. I've opened the seals up and it was bone dry. I couldn't find any water anywhere, not in the display nor switch nor controller. Maybe it is just a coincidence...??? I ordered a new KT-LCD3 also have a spare controller.
I just remembered when I switched it on before the breakdown I still had couple of seconds when the display seemed to be normal so I rolled a couple of meters and noticed there was no power and the speed meter was jumping crazy exactly the same symptoms when the magnet on the spoke slips off its position. Then I stopped to adjust the magnet and the whole system went down and I got the screen with all the digits on.

Does sound weird. The KT-LCD3 is reasonably well sealed, the controller in the motor seems pretty well potted. What about the speed sensor cable join having water in it? Maybe it thinks you are trying to program it

Have you tried flashing the controller and LT-LCD3 again? Check if you can read the program code out of both of them.

Well, maybe the speed sensor cable did something unexpected to the controller as I saw the speed was fluctuating on the display I moved the magnet and the cable as well. I didn't recon the cable could go wrong as it looks pretty industrialised, like no way to destroy it. That is also a good idea to try to read the code out of them and/or reflash them. I'll do that in the morning.

 

[manoz]

On the 3 motors I have sitting here, its water damage that has been the failure on all 3. Odd failures though as all 3 are from different overall problems, but has ended up with the controller damaged. Its odd as the only way in for the water is through the silicon where the leads go through or the seal around the main crank ( plastic cover ) which then gets into the main motor and controller compartment via the torque sensor wire cutout ( unfortunately you cannot silicon it in as it has to allow the springs on the torque sensor to work properly ).

In the last motor I installed ( still running fine ) I packed entirely the void behind the cable entry point, behind the plastic cover with waterproof thick grease to stop water being forced up against silicon of the cables, as I suspect its here its getting in. I'm not sure how to beef up the seal around the crank other than making an additional seal on the outside of the case which many engines in adverse conditions do have this outer steel cover as close as the crank as possible and then an inner seal dealing with just water.

I've put electrical tape all around the cover over the cables and then where the cables come out I've packed it with silicon. So fingers crossed. When I clean my bike I take the motor out. Maybe I should put silicon up against the crank seal too? Another thing I am considering is making a mudflap out of old inner tube and hanging it off my front fender?

 

[canbb]

Can you show on a picture which part you’re upgrading? I have difficulty visualizing it.

This bit, borrowed someone else's image

I'm probably being really thick at this point, but... That's the shaft the cranks are attached to?

Yes, it breaks when standing on the cradle or when going downhill it becomes dangerous!!

Mfg Michael

Ever think about changing the style of crank connection?

 

[skestans]

Can you show on a picture which part you’re upgrading? I have difficulty visualizing it.

This bit, borrowed someone else's image

I'm probably being really thick at this point, but... That's the shaft the cranks are attached to?

Yes, it breaks when standing on the cradle or when going downhill it becomes dangerous!!

Mfg Michael

Yeah that sounds bad... Would be interested in an upgrade as well then, what would the cost be like?

 

[manoz]

I'm trying to remove the torque sensor from another motor but it doesn't seem to be coming out. I'm sure it was easy last time. I've taken the big gear off the drive side after removing the circlips and then tapped the axle out of the non-drive side with the bearing and oil seal attached. I used a reversed spare axle and locked them into the teeth of the torque sensor and hammered from the non drive side but the torque sensor seems to be stuck fast? Anyone got any tips? I'm sure it should just tap out?

 

[famichiki]

Has anyone here attached a temperature sensor using JB Weld? Did you simply glue the surfaces using that, or encase the whole sensor in it? Or for anyone else, have you found an adhesive that doesn't involve encasing the entire sensor?

 

[casainho]

Has anyone here attached a temperature sensor using JB Weld? Did you simply glue the surfaces using that, or encase the whole sensor in it? Or for anyone else, have you found an adhesive that doesn't involve encasing the entire sensor?

Last time I used a plastic zip tie, like others shared before. I still use the heat transfer adhesive to connect the sensor to the motor surface and then input the zip tie around the motor that also keep the sensor in place. I need to put this information in the wiki.

 

[famichiki]

Last time I used a plastic zip tie, like others shared before. I still use the heat transfer adhesive to connect the sensor to the motor surface and then input the zip tie around the motor that also keep the sensor in place. I need to put this information in the wiki.

Thanks for the idea, I'd be interested to see a photo of that. I just found a post by Doohickey saying they used zip ties but unfortunately no photos. I also see that 3M makes a thermal double-sided tape which sounds good.

 

[3wheels]

I have just joined the forum and I am hoping someone can help me with a technical question regarding the TSDS2 mid drive unit.

I ordered 3 units from China a while ago and have only just installed the second one now. All three were to be installed in "standard" bikes, all with 7 hub-gears and internal rear brake by Shimano.

The first installation went well and the rear brake works as it should with back-peddling, but with the last two units, the crank is freewheeling making the drive sprocket stationary and therefore I can not engage the brake.

Are there different models to suit de-railer gear systems? I presume that is what I have ended up with?

Does anyone have a quick fix for this problem?

There are 2 types of Shimano IGH internal rear brakes. The roller brake which is cable operated, and the cruiser type coaster brake which is back pedal operated. The coaster brakes TSDZ2 has a solid pedal shaft with no clutch to allow this. The other IGH brake types are the disc brake, and no brake (rim brake) type which is the roller type with a cover in place of the brake and can fit narrower frames due to that. I think installing the correct shaft will fix it. But newer TSDZ2 may have a narrower shaft with 1 bearing and a seal instead of 2 bearings and a seal on the rh drive side. The PAS torque sensor is attached to that shaft so be sure you know how to deal with that before taking it apart. I haven't opened mine up yet so look around in the forum.

Thanks for the information.
The brakes are the coaster type. I would have thought that the "sprag clutch" was replaced with a solid fixed unit, as the gear and the main crankshaft is surely a standard replacement part? Do you know of any sources for supply of these parts?

 

[feyris]

I've got a problem with flickering headlight that is connected to the TSDZ2's light connectors. It's OK from start but when voltage drops under 50V the light gets more and more unstable. I assume this is due to crappy voltage regulator on the 6V output. Unfortunately when it gets really bad my lamp keeps turning off as well, which is rather annoying.

Anyone have any ideas on a workaround for this. Put a capacitor on the 6V output? What size of cap? Is there room to put it in the motor?

I also had this issue
After 20mn of ride, the light power off for few seconds, then power on again...
It looks like the 6v regulator is heating too mutch?
My light is 6V 0.5 A
I ordered a 60v to 6v transformer and a SSR to switch it.

 

[andrea_104kg]

I've got a problem with flickering headlight that is connected to the TSDZ2's light connectors. It's OK from start but when voltage drops under 50V the light gets more and more unstable. I assume this is due to crappy voltage regulator on the 6V output. Unfortunately when it gets really bad my lamp keeps turning off as well, which is rather annoying.

Anyone have any ideas on a workaround for this. Put a capacitor on the 6V output? What size of cap? Is there room to put it in the motor?

I also had this issue
After 20mn of ride, the light power off for few seconds, then power on again...
It looks like the 6v regulator is heating too mutch?
My light is 6V 0.5 A
I ordered a 60v to 6v transformer and a SSR to switch it.

this may be usefull?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33036428341.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.367c4c4dzz7JPC

 

[manoz]

Does anyone know if the factory applies grease or anti-seize to the torque sensor? Figured mine is seized so probably would have to take it to an auto shop and use their bearing press to get it out. Will greasing the part help it from seizing in the future?

 

[tannertasman]

Hi,

I'm hoping someone can help me with some issues I've been having with my tsdz2 build.
I bought the 750w 48v motor, planning to get a 48v battery in NZ. This proved impossible for me so I had to settle for a 36v battery. I flashed the 36v files from the eco-bike tutorial which was easy enough. Only problem is I'm not getting assist at any level. All the VLCD5 settings seem fine. I posted on Reddit and was directed to Stancecoke's VLCD5 repo. Went through all of that, but I'm still not getting assist at any level. Thanks for your time helping me, in advance.

 

[dameri]

Hi,

I'm hoping someone can help me with some issues I've been having with my tsdz2 build.
I bought the 750w 48v motor, planning to get a 48v battery in NZ. This proved impossible for me so I had to settle for a 36v battery. I flashed the 36v files from the eco-bike tutorial which was easy enough. Only problem is I'm not getting assist at any level. All the VLCD5 settings seem fine. I posted on Reddit and was directed to Stancecoke's VLCD5 repo. Went through all of that, but I'm still not getting assist at any level. Thanks for your time helping me, in advance.

I think Your question would be better placed here: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=98281
There is talking about VLCD5, VLCD6 and xh18 displays.

 

[knutselmaaster]

Hi,

I'm hoping someone can help me with some issues I've been having with my tsdz2 build.
I bought the 750w 48v motor, planning to get a 48v battery in NZ. This proved impossible for me so I had to settle for a 36v battery. I flashed the 36v files from the eco-bike tutorial which was easy enough. Only problem is I'm not getting assist at any level. All the VLCD5 settings seem fine. I posted on Reddit and was directed to Stancecoke's VLCD5 repo. Went through all of that, but I'm still not getting assist at any level. Thanks for your time helping me, in advance.

Does the torque sensor value change when you press the pedal?

 

[Nfer]

Hi,

I'm hoping someone can help me with some issues I've been having with my tsdz2 build.
I bought the 750w 48v motor, planning to get a 48v battery in NZ. This proved impossible for me so I had to settle for a 36v battery. I flashed the 36v files from the eco-bike tutorial which was easy enough. Only problem is I'm not getting assist at any level. All the VLCD5 settings seem fine. I posted on Reddit and was directed to Stancecoke's VLCD5 repo. Went through all of that, but I'm still not getting assist at any level. Thanks for your time helping me, in advance.

Is the speed sensor installed correctly?

 

[eyebyesickle]

Hi,

I'm hoping someone can help me with some issues I've been having with my tsdz2 build.
I bought the 750w 48v motor, planning to get a 48v battery in NZ. This proved impossible for me so I had to settle for a 36v battery. I flashed the 36v files from the eco-bike tutorial which was easy enough. Only problem is I'm not getting assist at any level. All the VLCD5 settings seem fine. I posted on Reddit and was directed to Stancecoke's VLCD5 repo. Went through all of that, but I'm still not getting assist at any level. Thanks for your time helping me, in advance.

I would test in walk mode, and see if it activates... That way you can determine if it is a voltage issue or not. You definitely flashed both program and data memory, and the option byte tab has not been cleared accidentally?

 

[ImpulsePurchase]

On the 3 motors I have sitting here, its water damage that has been the failure on all 3. Odd failures though as all 3 are from different overall problems, but has ended up with the controller damaged. Its odd as the only way in for the water is through the silicon where the leads go through or the seal around the main crank ( plastic cover ) which then gets into the main motor and controller compartment via the torque sensor wire cutout ( unfortunately you cannot silicon it in as it has to allow the springs on the torque sensor to work properly ).

In the last motor I installed ( still running fine ) I packed entirely the void behind the cable entry point, behind the plastic cover with waterproof thick grease to stop water being forced up against silicon of the cables, as I suspect its here its getting in. I'm not sure how to beef up the seal around the crank other than making an additional seal on the outside of the case which many engines in adverse conditions do have this outer steel cover as close as the crank as possible and then an inner seal dealing with just water.

I've put electrical tape all around the cover over the cables and then where the cables come out I've packed it with silicon. So fingers crossed. When I clean my bike I take the motor out. Maybe I should put silicon up against the crank seal too? Another thing I am considering is making a mudflap out of old inner tube and hanging it off my front fender?

Raid the garden shed for old plastic plant pots. They have the right curvature for extending your mudguards and are light weight. Otherwise, ice cream tub lids can work if you heat them with a heat gun to give them a curve.

 

[arka]

Did any of you combine the TSDZ2 with the drive system Sram EX1 used in the best Bosch motorized electric bikes (Cube, Hibike)? Sram EX1 dedicated to electric bikes with a special thicker chain and 8-row 11-48T cassette, gears can be changed even under load: https://www.sram.com/en/sram/mountain/series/ex1?filters=&sort=Relevancy&page=1.
The system consists of :
Cassettes + chain + derailleur + shifter + [cranks from Bosch engine]. My question is whether it is possible to use SRAM EX1 with a standard 42T crank with TSDZ2, or better to replace it with a dedicated one? Do you know any dedicated crank minimum 42T?

 

[knutselmaaster]

As far as I know, this is a standard size chain, only a bit stronger.
So it should work with this motor without any problems.