Maybe it’s galvanic corrosion between the stainless screws and the aluminum? Antisieze is a good idea. Will try loosening the screws on mine later to apply some.
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New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"
- Thread starter larsottar
- Start date
Yep, aluminum and stainless steel together are a bi-metallic corrosion risk or galvanic corrosion. They have to careful with these small trailers comprising of a steel chassis with aluminum deck and side extrusions, makers may use plastic washers or similar where contact is made between the two materials. If both are dry no problem, moisture and it all starts.
When theTsdz2 was new 7 years ago, I didn't realize galvanic corrosion will be a problem, so have mounted the case without any grease or plastic washers. Just because it was very easy to release these screws then. After a while I saw posts mentioning this problem, I bought anti seize, but then it was already too late. Because my Tsdz2 was running fine I let it.
Out of curiousity.... You advice to add plastic washers too for better prevention?
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Took the 3 hex screws off (the ones that need 2.5 mm hex bit) w/o problems. No corrosion at all anywhere. Screws are non magnetic so stainless. Put anti seize on and put them back.
How do plastic washers prevent corrosion between the threads.
I can only go on what I have seen with these small trailers, I would try anything for a few pence if it stopped the corrosion, perhaps waterproof grease or something on the threads as I am more a dry weather rider and do not jet wash the bike down I have had no problems with galvanic corrosion. I only seem to get a bit of surface corrosion on the die cast casings due to the paint being knocked off on the underside, so just clear the area with fine wet and dry, paint it and then cover with gaffer tape. then fit a "sump" guard I 3D printed. But they do have a better version on Aliexpress. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010425222638.html Do have a couple but not fitted as of yet. They stop the crap only, might try one on the hard tail I am putting together, but that may still change to use a 26" Specialized Epic Comp Frame I have, have to check if the battery will fit in the triangle of the Epic though.
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In those 7 years, did you ride in high moisture or salty environement? I never ride in the rain. I also keep the bike indoors @ room temp. That may explain why I do not have galvanic corrosion, yet.
Never. I don't like recreational biking with rain. So I use my ordinary bike for all weather conditions and shopping , but my ebike only with dry weather, from spring to autumn for some longer distances and holidays. Also all my bikes are stored indoors.
But if the black paint is damaged under the screwheads, it could be that that corrosion isn't on the threads, but between screw head and case. The screw heads are relatively large for the size of the allen key.
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Won’t know if galvanic corrosion is the reason till you remove the screws to inspect.
That is correct, but preferably without damage.
scianiac
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I found this the other day and I figured I had to add it here:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256...|x_object_id:1005006011896166|_p_origin_prod:
PEEK gears for the TSDZ2 and 2B. Not saying it's a wise idea but somebody wanted to replace the controller with a hotter one and wanted stronger than the nylon gear. Also of course I think the results from the brass gears are pretty poor, they don't seem to like the very small size of the steel motor gear and so not only are they noisy but seem to shed a lot of brass.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256...|x_object_id:1005006011896166|_p_origin_prod:
PEEK gears for the TSDZ2 and 2B. Not saying it's a wise idea but somebody wanted to replace the controller with a hotter one and wanted stronger than the nylon gear. Also of course I think the results from the brass gears are pretty poor, they don't seem to like the very small size of the steel motor gear and so not only are they noisy but seem to shed a lot of brass.
I like the idea of peek gears but we fall into if one wishes to wring the guts of a TSDZ2(B) mid drive one should have brought a TSDZ8 mid drive to start with, I have done thousands of miles on a mildly tuned TSDZ2(B) and it's still running fine today with it's three bearing mod on the thro' axle.
$50 for a TSDZ2 PEEK (sold out), $70 TSDZ2B PEEK! I have 4150 miles on my TSDZ2 motor with the blue nylon gear w/o any problems thus far- no noise, good power. I don't beat on my bike. It has brake sensors (very important IMO). 350 watt is the most I've seen on the LCD3 display.
I have a new brass gear. If the blue gear ever fails, I'll either install the brass gear or buy a new blue gear that's much cheaper (around $10?).
Agree with you, as previous I have done the three bearing mod, a mild tune up and fit brake sensors to all my builds, usually I mod the display cable for the sensors along with a 3D printer cable cover. All I have left is to mod the display cable on my latest 27.5" hard tail build.
Waynemarlow
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A whole load of parts inc 2 motors, new displays, controller, blue and brass gears etc on Ebay if you are in the UK.
Hi all.
I've just got a new TSDZ2B motor and having read about fitting 2 bearings had them ordered - however, after eight kilometers the left bearing started making a noise, so I had to order a third bearing... and circlips because the ones on the machine are as bad as the bearings. I managed with the point of a scalpel to get into the bearing and it had only a smear (being generous) of grease in it, packing it with some more seemed to make it behave better, but I decided not to continue using it.
Now my problem - and dilemma :
The problem has migrated to the main gear assembly after maybe 50km of use. You may have heard it's been sort of hot in France and yesterday was the first with a cool enough morning to do further testing, it got warmer and then the sound of another bearing in trouble, more when pushing on the left side, but also pushing down on the right - louder and of a different pitch than the small left side one. Anyway it's the only one left to go wrong.
Initially I thought it could be a pedal, so I spent part of the afternoon doing some (overdue) maintenance. The problem is still there.
I suspect that the fault is the same as in the small bearing - not properly packed with grease, and possibly the wrong grease. I had had brief moment of the same noise which seemed to have cleared itself and the circumstances were similar, that is high temperature (in the 30's).
My question is this : is it possible to disassemble the main gear and re-pack the bearing with grease or am I going to have to send it back and start again ? Which will mean that I won't get away this year (I use it for cycle touring - I no longer have strength to get a loaded bike up the hills)
I notice that the walls of the bearing look like mica, but are probably rather brittle plastic that doesn't fit very well, so I could possibly inject grease into the bearing if disassembly is not too difficult.
Your advice please - I bought it through Aliexpress, which was probably a mistake...
I've just got a new TSDZ2B motor and having read about fitting 2 bearings had them ordered - however, after eight kilometers the left bearing started making a noise, so I had to order a third bearing... and circlips because the ones on the machine are as bad as the bearings. I managed with the point of a scalpel to get into the bearing and it had only a smear (being generous) of grease in it, packing it with some more seemed to make it behave better, but I decided not to continue using it.
Now my problem - and dilemma :
The problem has migrated to the main gear assembly after maybe 50km of use. You may have heard it's been sort of hot in France and yesterday was the first with a cool enough morning to do further testing, it got warmer and then the sound of another bearing in trouble, more when pushing on the left side, but also pushing down on the right - louder and of a different pitch than the small left side one. Anyway it's the only one left to go wrong.
Initially I thought it could be a pedal, so I spent part of the afternoon doing some (overdue) maintenance. The problem is still there.
I suspect that the fault is the same as in the small bearing - not properly packed with grease, and possibly the wrong grease. I had had brief moment of the same noise which seemed to have cleared itself and the circumstances were similar, that is high temperature (in the 30's).
My question is this : is it possible to disassemble the main gear and re-pack the bearing with grease or am I going to have to send it back and start again ? Which will mean that I won't get away this year (I use it for cycle touring - I no longer have strength to get a loaded bike up the hills)
I notice that the walls of the bearing look like mica, but are probably rather brittle plastic that doesn't fit very well, so I could possibly inject grease into the bearing if disassembly is not too difficult.
Your advice please - I bought it through Aliexpress, which was probably a mistake...
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