new tsdz8 pswpower
- Thread starter pxl666
- Start date
Rozbiórka na części silnika Tongsheng TSDZ8 750W 48V
ebikestuff.eu
This is the image from the page you linked. Looks exactly like the TSDZ2 axle right?
I have both motors, but didn't open them, so can't confirm they are exactly the same.
You can try to email Ebikestuff or Tongsheng and ask.
Atak_Snajpera
1 kW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2022
- Messages
- 320
I wouldn't be surprised if both parts were the same. Spindle and torque sensor
pswpower.com
tsdz2 tsdz2b or tsdz8 torque sensor for TSDZ2 TSDZ2B or tsdz8 TONGSHENG electric bicycle central mid motor
tsdz2 tsdz2b or tsdz8 torque sensor for TSDZ2 TSDZ2B or tsdz8 TONGSHENG electric bicycle central mid motor
Atak_Snajpera
1 kW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2022
- Messages
- 320
No thanks. The same junk as tsdz2. Why don't you buy IT yourself?
I have.
Why do you even post in this thread? Go buy yourself motor you like and enjoy it instead of posting in random threads telling people their motors are junk. Typical troll.
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Matze_Senpaii
10 µW
here is the disassembly and teardown of TSDZ8, it says that the axle has been improved
ebikestuff.eu
Tongsheng TSDZ8 750W 48V teardown, disassembly
Atak_Snajpera
1 kW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2022
- Messages
- 320
Matze_Senpaii
10 µW
TSDZ8 is currently around 300€ on AliExpress and many vendors have it in stock, to me this means that demand is there and it will sell well. also some parts seem to be almost same to tsdz2, but that doesn't mean its the same "junk".
the tsdz2 could only be used at 12a max or you risked motor and controller overheating and damage, this new tsdz8 seems to be around 24a and a comparison on YouTube with bbs02 showed that its build slightly better than bafang, so to me that was enough reason to try this motor out. soon i will install it when i get a donor bike then i will see how it performs
the tsdz2 could only be used at 12a max or you risked motor and controller overheating and damage, this new tsdz8 seems to be around 24a and a comparison on YouTube with bbs02 showed that its build slightly better than bafang, so to me that was enough reason to try this motor out. soon i will install it when i get a donor bike then i will see how it performs
Nobody is interested in hearing what trolls have to say. You have exactly zero experience in this matter, so please go and play somewhere else.
If open source software is created, as for TSDZ2, it will be the best central engine price/quality/capabilities. I'm telling you, I'm the man who built dozens of bikes using TSDZ2, BBSHD and Bafang M series.
Massive, quiet, pressure sensor, shifter, cheap, doesn't get hot like the TSDZ2, has stiffer cranks and their mounting.
Massive, quiet, pressure sensor, shifter, cheap, doesn't get hot like the TSDZ2, has stiffer cranks and their mounting.
well it still has a lot of not fixed and reworked components.
Here's a video of me measuring the axle from a TSDZ2 with a broken casing before I swapped the guts over to a new casing. Do they look exactly the same?
My Tsdz8 has failed at around the 2000miles/3000km mark.
Lasted about 10 weeks.
It's my first experience with an E-bike of any sort
DIY build. 52volt battery on a road bike, cycling 50miles/80km per day 3-5 days a week. initially used the stock 44T but switched to 52T front chainring narrow wide after about 2 weeks. Speeds on open road of 57-59kmph, computer reading 1500-1700W continuous output.
Symptoms developed straight away in the 44x11 and 12 ratios, with sound similar to a pneumatic impact wrench at a garage coming from the drive chain. Brand new 11 speed chain, cassette and chainring, chain as short as possible.
Over the next few weeks the ratchet sound became more and more frequent at lower and lower torque to a point where I had to set off from stop in assistance level 1 then slowly go up to 3. but if I pushed hard on the pedals it would make the pneumatic drill sound , and lose all power.
Initially I thought it was the chain being pulled over the cassette without engaging, changes cassette chainring and chain 3 times, with some marginal improvement.
in last few weeks motor started to run on after stopping pedalling, and the ratchet sound getting more frequent.
opened it up nylon gear is pristine, so it's either the torque sensor or the clutch or a combination.
there are no spare parts anywhere, So yeah it's for the bin.
would I be mad to buy another one ?
Lasted about 10 weeks.
It's my first experience with an E-bike of any sort
DIY build. 52volt battery on a road bike, cycling 50miles/80km per day 3-5 days a week. initially used the stock 44T but switched to 52T front chainring narrow wide after about 2 weeks. Speeds on open road of 57-59kmph, computer reading 1500-1700W continuous output.
Symptoms developed straight away in the 44x11 and 12 ratios, with sound similar to a pneumatic impact wrench at a garage coming from the drive chain. Brand new 11 speed chain, cassette and chainring, chain as short as possible.
Over the next few weeks the ratchet sound became more and more frequent at lower and lower torque to a point where I had to set off from stop in assistance level 1 then slowly go up to 3. but if I pushed hard on the pedals it would make the pneumatic drill sound , and lose all power.
Initially I thought it was the chain being pulled over the cassette without engaging, changes cassette chainring and chain 3 times, with some marginal improvement.
in last few weeks motor started to run on after stopping pedalling, and the ratchet sound getting more frequent.
opened it up nylon gear is pristine, so it's either the torque sensor or the clutch or a combination.
there are no spare parts anywhere, So yeah it's for the bin.
would I be mad to buy another one ?
You can buy torque sensor from PSW, but it is expensive. I would buy new motor and keep old one for spares.
59km/h? 1700W output? You really need a motorbike, or electric scooter not a bicycle.
Disassembly:
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that is the problem of this motor, even if something small break it is a pain in the ass to get a part or repair it. They did not make it durable, quality control is non existent I think.
Buy new one and keep old for spares as mentioned already or go with some premade or bafang but for this you need special frame but the quality is much better.
yeah the aliexpress warranty, I will have to post the motor back at my own expense no doubt. Usually just take it on the chin.
But I really I shouldn't have bothered to open the motor, as I had no parts to replace any potential damaged components, but can't undo it now.
It Looks like one of the posts that the one of the three tiny clutch springs sits into has shorn off.
I'm putting the failure down to a combination of manufacture and user factors.
it looks like main issue was my own lack of knowledge/experience with motors, not knowing how to minimise stress on motor, using 52V, gear ratio choice, always using PAS 5 and going max speed in a 52x11.
Think I'll go with the suggestion to order another one and have this for spares. I'll be more gentle with it keep it at higher RPM, and ease off from standing start. If a second one fails in same way I'll try a toseven or BBSHD.
I have a hub motor but was put off from using it as getting it into the rear triangle was a major issue with disc rotor making it near impossible to get in and out. Obviously fixing puncture on the road was going to be a real struggle.
Wish I'd taken a video of the sound, and pedal run on before I'd removed it from bike.
Anyway just documenting this failure for others, as there is very little information on the motor.
But I really I shouldn't have bothered to open the motor, as I had no parts to replace any potential damaged components, but can't undo it now.
It Looks like one of the posts that the one of the three tiny clutch springs sits into has shorn off.
I'm putting the failure down to a combination of manufacture and user factors.
it looks like main issue was my own lack of knowledge/experience with motors, not knowing how to minimise stress on motor, using 52V, gear ratio choice, always using PAS 5 and going max speed in a 52x11.
Think I'll go with the suggestion to order another one and have this for spares. I'll be more gentle with it keep it at higher RPM, and ease off from standing start. If a second one fails in same way I'll try a toseven or BBSHD.
I have a hub motor but was put off from using it as getting it into the rear triangle was a major issue with disc rotor making it near impossible to get in and out. Obviously fixing puncture on the road was going to be a real struggle.
Wish I'd taken a video of the sound, and pedal run on before I'd removed it from bike.
Anyway just documenting this failure for others, as there is very little information on the motor.
